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Old 08-23-2014, 04:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1946CJ2 View Post
On mounting the engine is a balancing game between the hood, firewall, fan/radiator clearance, steering shaft, exhaust manifold clearance, transmission tunnel clearance, transfer case yoke to diff angles and once you get all that figured out try and get 3-5* on your intake manifold (but make sure you account for the any slope of the shop floor). Just don't weld everything solid until you get everything else figured out. I had everything tack welded really well, and then once I had everything where it need to be I stripped it down to the frame and welded everything solid.
The 3-5* is what I was curious about. I'm planning on performing a stretch in the door and between the cowl and front fenders but I want to wait until I have the engine and such placed and mocked up and let that determine my exact stretch lengths. Then I'll stretch the body, and weld everything up for good. Thanks again for the detailed response, it's exactly what a beginner such as myself was looking for..Also I just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading/looking through pictures of your build. Excellent work.
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Old 08-23-2014, 07:19 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Look at your manifold. See if it has a lean on it where the carb/efi mounts. Mine did. So I put the manifold on and then made it level at the mount which leaned it back 3* but I did that without the trans on. I ended up added a 2" drop at the tcase cross member ( that was confusing. I made the mount for the carb level --- both ways and then adjusted placement like Rod said.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:39 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigseth View Post
The 3-5* is what I was curious about. I'm planning on performing a stretch in the door and between the cowl and front fenders but I want to wait until I have the engine and such placed and mocked up and let that determine my exact stretch lengths. Then I'll stretch the body, and weld everything up for good. Thanks again for the detailed response, it's exactly what a beginner such as myself was looking for..Also I just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading/looking through pictures of your build. Excellent work.
Thanks
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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So the Power-train is finally sitting in the chassis, and I'm really digging it I still need to come up with a modified mounting method for the transmission/Tcase, as the Novak mount that I am using doesn't fit flush with the belly pan. I'll most likely weld in a little block to fill the gap between the belly pan and trans mount. It looks like I might also need to make a cutout in the belly pan for the driveshafts to mate up to the tcase, but other than those two things everything looks to work really nicely.
Another update is that I went ahead and fixed the finish on the frame. I had a couple of spots that rust was starting to form along the bottom of the frame and near the belly pan. I ground the rust away until I hit bare metal and then refinished the entire frame with por15. I then hit it all with Eastwood's chassis primer, and finished it with Eastwood's Chassis black topcoat. I personally think it came out nicely.


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Old 09-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #30 (permalink)
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looks good and very clean!
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:43 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Great build.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:07 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Why not try for a much flatter belly with more clearance?
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:27 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Why not try for a much flatter belly with more clearance?
You know its an obvious suggestion but the more I've sat around thinking about it this evening I think you might be right man. The original thought was that the tj belly pan would give me some rock protection while also keeping my axle to tcase shaft angles low..but on the other hand my issue would be solved with just a basic cross member trans support and would give me more clearance at the same time.

Just thought I'd bring up a story from this past week as well..I had posted my old Dana 18 Tcase on Craigslist along with my old Novak tcase to tranny adaptor and I got to talking with the guy who purchased my items and he brought up your name, "Mieser." He had a 60's cj5 that he cracked the frame on and said you were a real cool guy who he grabbed some frame blueprints from, and was on his way to have a shop start the work on a new frame for him. Small world.

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Old 09-01-2014, 09:11 PM   #34 (permalink)
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You know its an obvious suggestion but the more I've sat around thinking about it this evening I think you might be right man. The original thought was that the tj belly pan would give me some rock protection while also keeping my axle to tcase shaft angles low..but on the other hand my issue would be solved with just a basic cross member trans support and would give me more clearance at the same time.

Just thought I'd bring up a story from this past week as well..I had posted my old Dana 18 Tcase on Craigslist along with my old Novak tcase to tranny adaptor and I got to talking with the guy who purchased my items and he brought up your name, "Mieser." He had a 60's cj5 that he cracked the frame on and said you were a real cool guy who he grabbed some frame blueprints from, and was on his way to have a shop start the work on a new frame for him. Small world.
Too funny! Thanks for the story.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:29 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hey man most Tj frames rot from the inside out. My original frame did. When I did my driveway frame swap I did the same preps as you(I used Chassis Saver instead) but I also used 3 cans of Eastwoods internal frame coat too. That stuff is the shit and for $20 a can you really can't go wrong.

Unless you've already coated the inside of the frame with something?
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:50 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Hey man most Tj frames rot from the inside out. My original frame did. When I did my driveway frame swap I did the same preps as you(I used Chassis Saver instead) but I also used 3 cans of Eastwoods internal frame coat too. That stuff is the shit and for $20 a can you really can't go wrong.

Unless you've already coated the inside of the frame with something?
I appreciate the suggestion! I've been trying to figure out which product I wanted to go with to coat the inside of the frame. Glad to hear that you did a Tj with the eastwood stuff and it worked out well. Is 3 cans overkill, or will I be happy that I ordered that number?
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:30 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Drove up to Oregon and picked up a little something from Ron Fitzpatrick back towards the start of September


Cut out the tank



And Finally..the crime was committed. The 8" stretch


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Old 10-02-2014, 06:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I appreciate the suggestion! I've been trying to figure out which product I wanted to go with to coat the inside of the frame. Glad to hear that you did a Tj with the eastwood stuff and it worked out well. Is 3 cans overkill, or will I be happy that I ordered that number?
You'll be good with 3 cans. It takes about half a can to figure out how to get the spray even. I'd put at least 1 can in each frame rail. The stuff works good but have a towel ready to clean off all the coating that drips outta all the holes.

Sorry it took so long for the reply.
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:19 PM   #39 (permalink)
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More progress on the stretch today! The tub is at Hot Rod's in Roseville for the 8" stretch and let me just say Rod is an awesome guy! I'd recommend him to anyone in the area. He's a perfectionist with the work he does (perfect trait for the man you have doing your body work!)

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Old 10-04-2014, 06:29 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I am all ears on this build....I so wanna do one of these in the near future...collecting the old stuff first...

Thanks for posting on here....

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Old 10-09-2014, 09:15 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Great build you have going on! I will be following this with much interest. Great works so far. I agree with you and Mieser. Try to get as much belly clearance as possible. Spend the day and make a simple crossmember to support the transmission and transfer case. It will be time well spent. Keep up the good work
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:28 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Bits of progress on the build:
Floor tacked in




Compressor and Components for Air Lockers


Drivers Side Header




Passenger Side Header


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Old 10-30-2014, 09:57 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I'm hung up and in need of suggestions on gas tanks.. I removed the stock tj tank with dimensions of 35Wx18Lx12H. Reason being the rear frame hangs out too far for my liking behind the body. I'm going to trim a few inches off the rear of the frame but after I do that the stock tank no longer will fit. Does anyone know of a tank that is not as long that I may be able to use? I know the easy thing to do would be to run a fuel cell in the bed of the jeep, however I'm going to be putting in a rear seat. I've seen a few RCI fuel tanks like this 15 gallon one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161a/overview/ for under $200 on ebay (dimensions: 30Lx9Wx12H) but I'm unsure of the consensus concerning the quality of these tanks for an off road rig? Should I be looking for one with foam? I think I could modify the gas tank skid to work with this tank, but I'd like some input before I make a purchase! Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge!
TJ Tank:




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Old 10-30-2014, 10:22 PM   #44 (permalink)
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You could build a tank. My tank was built out of 14ga sheet metal, and I used multi point fuel pickups. My tank is around page 10 in my build (I think).
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:25 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Not a cheap option, but a good one....

GenRight offers the best prices and customer service for Crawler™ ALIEN Gas Tank TJ / LJ to be purchased online 24/7.

or

GenRight offers the best prices and customer service for Crawler™ COMP Gas Tank TJ / LJ to be purchased online 24/7.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Are you reusing anything besides the vin?
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #47 (permalink)
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How about moving the stock rear crossmember/body mount thing forward a few inches and reusing the stock Tj tank.

Or just cutting it out and making your own mounts that put the OEM tank where you need it.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Or maybe look into a 15 gallon Yj tank. It should be smaller than the 19 gallon Tj tank you have..
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:26 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Made a little more progress on the body work this week. It will be on to the hood stretch next.




I took the front Dana 30 Diff cover off today to check that that everything was in order and switch out the fluids. As it turns out when I purchased the Dana 30 I was told it had 4.56 gears..in reality it has 4.88 gearing..(39 ring teeth, 8 pinion teeth)
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:50 PM   #50 (permalink)
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So I haven't updated the thread in awhile and figured I would post some updates on the flatfender build!
The front of the tub was stretched 4" and the side step was extended and reinforced as well.






The tub finished up as of today and ready to go onto the chassis.
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