Willys TJ Build - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Willys
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-05-2015, 02:03 PM   #51 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I ordered up a JD2 Model 32 manual tube bender last week along with a 1.75" die set (5.5-180). The shipping cost on the thing was Insane! Luckily the Pirate4x4 discount offset the shipping cost Once that is delivered I'll get to work on building a stand for the bender and then set to work on the roll cage. (Still deciding on what design to go with)

My dad recently picked up a 1945 GPW after enjoying working on mine with me. Between building my cage and the one we are going to build for his flatty, along with some rock sliders and other various future projects we decided to split the cost and invest in a bender.

After towing home my dad's GPW we realized it is ironically suited to him. He was on the Army pistol team back in the day and shot with a Colt .45...His weimaraner pup's name is "Colt" and he now owns a 45 GPW which came with the custom license plate, "myold45"
How he bought it:

He snagged the 45 for a screaming deal considering everything that had been put into it..Chevy 350 that hasn't seen a single mile since it was built and dropped in, same story for the 700R4 transmission..and Atlas II Transfer case..as well as the Front and rear Dana 44's..and the 35"s, and pretty much every other part on it! Has original data plates, glove box, frame, 50 cal mount and a lot of other parts with Ford F scripts riddling the thing. The downside was the body, bondo everywhere covering up holes from rust.

We tore into it the night he got it home and stripped it down to its frame.

Since then the 45 has had parts welded on that were screwed on (the jeep was pretty much just mocked together..for ex. the transmission was bolted up but with no torque converter shocks were added, steering buttoned up, the body sandblasted


patched with bondo

fixed up nicely for an offroad rig, driveshafts ordered and installed..He is setting his completion deadline for Moab EJS..
Picture as of this morning:
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-05-2015, 03:27 PM   #52 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Member # 231011
Posts: 1,835
I like it a ton. Really like those rims. A hotrod feel
h8sprint is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 01-05-2015, 06:14 PM   #53 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by h8sprint View Post
I like it a ton. Really like those rims. A hotrod feel
Thanks, and I agree with you..had that ratrod feel to it.
Hah your rim comment is comical though. My dad hates them for some reason? I can't figure it out, I think they look sweet on the 45!
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 01-09-2015, 05:05 PM   #54 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Set the tub on the frame. It's mocked up with PVC pipe cut to 1.5" as that is the body lift I will be running. Any ideas on what to use for the actual body lift? I have thought about ordering up a tj body lift kit from somewhere like Morris 4x4, but if there is a cheaper option, or one that will allow me to cut the pucks to variable sizes, I'm all ears!

The only place I had to trim the transmission tunnel for clearance was for the transfer case.

How much room between the firewall and distributer is generally recommended? There is currently about 1" of room.



sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-09-2015, 05:20 PM   #55 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I was gifted my gauges for Christmas. I'll be using a GPS speedometer. All of the gauges fit nicely in the dash except for the speedometer, it will require some slight trimming.

sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-10-2015, 10:41 PM   #56 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Got a little bored this evening while working on adding some subframe support to the tub and decided to throw the windshield onto the GPW so I could start envisioning what roll cage I want to put on her.
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-11-2015, 10:55 AM   #57 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,034
You are going to leave the belly pan low with the spacers?
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-11-2015, 02:28 PM   #58 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Mieser, spacers are definitely going! But I'm up in the air still on if I'm going to ditch the belly pan for a tubing crossmember and then add a skid or just leave it there..
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2015, 07:44 AM   #59 (permalink)
BHT
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3279
Location: Gunnison, CO
Posts: 13
For body mounts I used boat rollers from Eastern Marine. Cut them to size on a chop saw.
BHT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2015, 07:53 AM   #60 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,034
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigseth View Post
Mieser, spacers are definitely going! But I'm up in the air still on if I'm going to ditch the belly pan for a tubing crossmember and then add a skid or just leave it there..
There are some good 'builder' options for the TJ frame too....

Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - UCF DIY Transfer Case Skid for Jeep Wrangler
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2015, 12:02 AM   #61 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
So I just got my blackout light for the front fender in the mail from Ron Fitzpatrick jeep parts up in Oregon..I started to assemble it and it seems like the inside of the bucket for the blackout light needs to be trimmed in order for the whole thing to pop together.

Has anyone else had any experience with these lights or needing to widen them up so it can be assembled into the bucket? Or is it supposed to be such a tight fit? Thanks in advance for any responses! I'd hate to be forceful when putting it together and ruin the thing
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2015, 06:58 AM   #62 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Member # 232365
Location: Michigan and Chicago
Posts: 764
I had the same problem. I couldn't get it to close without putting it in a vice. I don't recall my exact fix without looking at it again, but I think just dremmeled down the machined bump on the inside of the ring. No need to widen anything. It closed easily after doing this.
If you post a good pic of the inside of the light and the ring I can tell you more accurately what I did. I don't have access to mine to check it.
It may have been the tab I dremmeled down

Last edited by Glennwoudenberg; 04-06-2015 at 04:36 PM.
Glennwoudenberg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 10:26 AM   #63 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glennwoudenberg View Post
I had the same problem. I couldn't get it to close without putting it in a vice. I don't recall my exact fix without looking at it again, but I think just dremmeled down the machined bump on the inside of the ring. No need to widen anything. It closed easily after doing this.
If you post a good pic of the inside of the light and the ring I can tell you more accurately what I did. I don't have access to mine to check it.
It may have been the tab I dremmeled down
Months later..but this worked for me, Thanks Glenn!
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 11:09 AM   #64 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Well school is out for the summer which means it's time to let my mind think about something other than school FINALLY I only have my Fall semester left to finish before I'll graduate with my Bachelors of Sciences.

Things that have been done to the build this past week:

I got a subframe for the floor of the tub built and welded together. I made it out of some simple rectangular tubing, and the floor of the tub no longer pops and flexes when weight is placed on it. This tubing also provided for a mounting location onto the frame for a third body mount located back towards the front of the rear tires.

I cut off the old TJ frame body mounts and welded them up in their new locations (In the pictures below you can see the front two mounts have been cut off and moved about 5 in. rearwards)


I also took a trip to the local J&G Jeep junkyard and picked up some TJ mounting hardware rather than cutting up boat rollers or hockey pucks. By welding in the TJ body mounts just slightly higher they were able to give me the 1.25" Body lift that I was needing.


*The body mounting hardware was just coated in surface rust (which made them cheaper to buy) but to anyone out there looking for a rust removal trick:
Soak the item in some apple cider vinegar overnight and the next morning the rust will be gone and you'll have a brand new part. I've also used a mix of molasses and water..With this you can fill up a huge rubbermaid container with the mixture and soak larger rusted items.

The front fenders were then cut to fit my frame. This took way longer than I had expected. I was going at them with a cutoff-wheel. In the end they fit, but while I was sitting their hacking at them I was dreaming of better tools for the job.






The hood fitment is way off so I'll need to drill out the mounting holes to make them wider so I can slide the thing more towards the passenger side.
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 11:12 AM   #65 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I've also been contemplating what tires I'll go to because these 33" all-terrains just won't do Although I do kind of like the look.


*This is the rear with my dad's 35" mocked up next to it



* I'm leaning more towards a set of 36" IROKS however. Here is a picture of one next to a 33" like the ones that are currently on my project.
[/PHP]
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 11:30 AM   #66 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Member # 385546
Posts: 109
Awesome build! I have a new to me me CJ-2A and I'd be lying if I said I hadn't thought about putting it on my '06 rubicon frame!
xbcasey is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 11:57 AM   #67 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by xbcasey View Post
Awesome build! I have a new to me me CJ-2A and I'd be lying if I said I hadn't thought about putting it on my '06 rubicon frame!
Hey thanks Casey! I've actually been silently watching your thread for the past few days. Definitely a cool rig! I like the windshields on those 2A's. Any word on how your tub came about those cj5 rear corners?
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 12:09 PM   #68 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I've narrowed my roll cage choices down to two options. Wondering what everyone thinks would be the best choice?

Option #1 Is a hoop design that Mykul on here did and I thought he killed it ... I think it would be the easier option because of the narrow mounting area that I have to work with behind the rear tool boxes in the tub.



Option #2 I've seen quite a few guys with cages that are very similar on here. I like the looks of this cage, but feel like it's going to be a test of my measuring and bending abilities to get the A to C pillar to come down in the area behind the tool box that I will need it to..
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 12:31 PM   #69 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Member # 385546
Posts: 109
The windshield is one of the things I want to change out! I love the MB split windows. I have no idea what's up with the tub, that's still one of the great mysteries of the jeep that I'm trying to figure out! My TJ and my old CJ-5 were both bone stock when I got them so it was easy to know what I was working with as I went, the Willys is going to take a while to figure out
xbcasey is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-02-2015, 12:34 PM   #70 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Member # 385546
Posts: 109
I like the practicality of option 1, but the looks of option 2. Being that I usually got for the more practical option, I would say 1.
xbcasey is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-03-2015, 07:59 PM   #71 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
Skip44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Member # 195073
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 713
I like the simple look of option 1, I think it fits the Willys perfect.

Skip
__________________
For those that fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Skip44 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-05-2015, 09:30 AM   #72 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Member # 472305
Location: Placer County
Posts: 180
Probably option 2 for me but that is coming from your crazy ass dad who built this.
jbcj is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2015, 09:27 PM   #73 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Fitted my gauges to the dash. A few of the holes in the repro body needed to be opened up just a tad. A Dremel with a sanding band attachment worked really well for this. I'm excited for the GPS speedo, should make changing tires and gearing in the future just slightly less of an issue.



I'm also starting to think I should plate in the rear of the frame that is sticking out past the back of the body. My original thoughts were to chop off the extra frame and weld up a bumper from 2x4 steel as I have seen others do for their rear bumpers..But if I were to plate it in like in the pic below I'd be able to mount a high-lift jack or something off of it. What do you all think?


*I have that piece of sheet metal there for mock up purposes. If I choose to go this route I'll use thicker steel, as well as cut it to a more exact dimension.

Would love to hear what the opinions are out there..
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2015, 10:48 PM   #74 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Member # 385546
Posts: 109
Looks like the perfect opportunity to mount a rear winch on that thing!
xbcasey is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-16-2015, 07:25 AM   #75 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,034
That looks like a lot of extra frame to drag over stuff.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.