Willys TJ Build - Page 4 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Willys
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-21-2015, 10:11 AM   #76 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Member # 595874
Posts: 1
This is nearly exactly what i am planning over the winter, great job. Sorry if i missed this in your text but one question (I know it will be different in CA) that i'm trying to figure out before I start:

if you are registering it, what are you doing with the title/registration/insurance for legality?

Last edited by 4cylFTW; 07-21-2015 at 10:11 AM.
4cylFTW is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2015, 02:36 PM   #77 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Member # 196160
Location: Norwich, CT
Posts: 686
Trim it, give yourself a good departure angle. You can always mount a winch inside the tub with the fairlead bolted to tub...
__________________
1983 Bobbed CJ8 6.0/4L80/Atlas 3.0. UB D60/UB 14bolt, 42” Pitbull Rockers
1946 CJ2A
defbob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 07-29-2015, 09:06 PM   #78 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Thanks for the input on the rear of the frame everyone..I will trim it. Defbob is right, I suppose I could always mount a rear winch inside of the tub.

I wasn't satisfied with the look of the family style cage on my rig so I've decided to go with a classic look and build a simple cage. I think it will fit the jeep and look much better in the end.

sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-29-2015, 09:47 PM   #79 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 126578
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,188
Following.
__________________
2006 Chevrolet 2500HD, 6.0, tow pig!

1948 cj2a stock for now
MTMudpuppy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-02-2015, 09:55 PM   #80 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Got tons done to the roll cage today. Went from a B hoop to where it is in the pictures below. The three main things that guided the building of the cage were:
1)Still being able to open and close the glove box
2)Still being able to open and close the rear toolboxes
3)Being able to open up the front windshield section (It has bracket arms that swing into the jeep cab)

A few more additions still need to be made on the cage to give added support and to allow for seat mounting, but the basic shape is completed. Finish welding will also have to take place.

It was the strangest thing, to pull the jeep into the rear yard of the house where our shop is and the outlet in the wall for the welder you have to turn the jeep 90 degrees to the left and make a turn into the rear yard. Not having the steering in the jeep set up, the way we do this is with two people, one on each side of the front axle, grabbing and turning the tire by hand. Rolling it into the rear yard this worked just fine. But when we went to roll it back into the garage the steering locked up and we weren't able to turn the tires from facing straight in order to make the 90 degree turn to push the jeep back into its garage. We took a jack and jacked the front axle off of the ground so the tires weren't in contact with the pavement and still couldn't get the tires to turn left or right. What would cause the steering to bind like this? Thoughts?

Here are the pics of the cage:




sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-04-2015, 07:35 PM   #81 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Disconnected the drag link from the pitman arm this evening and this enabled me to once again turn the tires..Which points towards the steering box having been the problem. It feels like it is seized up if you try to turn the pitman arm. Any ideas out there as to what is causing the steering box to suddenly seize up like this? Would not having enough fluids cause this?
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #82 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
Skip44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Member # 195073
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 713
I like the look of the cage, I have seen many cages with the front top window bar with a bend in it. What does it serve that way?

Skip
__________________
For those that fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Skip44 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-08-2015, 06:13 PM   #83 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Thanks Skip! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

The bend in the upper windshield is purely esthetic. No function over form there to the best of my knowledge. I saw the design on svaras second build's cage, and liked the look so I did the same to my cage. I'll add a dash support across and then run two smaller diameter tubes upwards just like Sebastian did.
Alot of the guys on here probably don't like the look or the fact that an unnecessary bend compromises the integrity of the cage, but with the added support I'm sure it'll be structurally sound..I mean I'm betting my life on it
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2016, 10:13 PM   #84 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I spent some time rebuilding my Warn model 8274 and thought I'd share a bit about my experience. I knew nothing about these winches, but with the help of the below five sources was able to complete the rebuild fairly trouble free:

Warn 8274 rebuild
My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... | IH8MUD Forum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXLnAqgRpFE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AetCZJxvNdU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPISmebrA_Q

The whole rebuild is something anyone who played with legos as a kid can complete. Upon inspecting my winch I decided to put a lower housing rebuild kit and a brake rebuild kit from amazon on the unit. I also have upgraded my motor to the 9.5xp. The 9.5xp is literally a bolt on unit, nothing more to it than that. The motor came with a gasket and a washer as well..I had to make an educated guess as to where the washer went...if anybody knows where it is intended by warn to go please chime in below

Robot Check

Winch before I tore into it:





As you can see in the second picture it looks like the tabs that connect the upper and lower housing broke off at some point and were welded back onto the housing..Not sure what would have caused this to happen The only grief it caused me was that the upper and lower housings were not a perfect machined fit when retightening the upper housing to the lower (It might be that these upper and lower housings are never quite a perfect fit) so I made sure I got the drum lockplate into it's slot in the upper housing and called it close enough.
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2016, 10:22 PM   #85 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
After I had the winch apart I went to work scrupping it with a wire wheel attached to a drill, and my Q-tips and tooth-picks.

The Drum before and after I had taken a wire wheel to it. After I cleaned it I coated it in POR-15. I chose the POR because it goes on rock sold and smooth like glass. I wanted a smooth finish like that for the 5/16" x 125' Master Pull synthetic rope line to attach to.


sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2016, 10:32 PM   #86 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
The housing of the winch was coated in Eastwoods chassis black paint. I decided on leaving the brake components wire wheeled and cleaned because I kept seing people paint their brake components only to see them get scratched up by the brake pawl the first time they used their winch



I then mounted the winch onto my frame using a Warn winch mount..Yes the winch probably inhibits air flow to the radiator meiser

sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2016, 10:39 PM   #87 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
I should also mention that I have some spare parts after the rebuild..If anyone would like the old motor or some brake bearing balls if you are missing or lost some of yours (those suckers jump out at you as soon as the brake C clip comes off) you are welcome to them. I'd just ask that you pay for the shipping.
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2016, 03:23 PM   #88 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 221907
Location: Borås, Sweden
Posts: 143
Hi

With that motor it might be a good idea to upgrade to a stronger main shaft.

Like this one for example:
Gigglepin 4x4 Heavy Duty Up Rated Mainshaft Kit
pigge is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2016, 07:35 PM   #89 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
Skip44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Member # 195073
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 713
How much oil and what kind goes in these?

Skip
__________________
For those that fought for it, Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Skip44 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2016, 02:22 PM   #90 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip44 View Post
How much oil and what kind goes in these?

Skip
Lubrication: 6 oz. SAE 30 (non-detergent)

This looks like hardly any oil when you put it in the case, but it just needs enough for the lower gear to pick it up and smear it between the gears. Too much and it will begin to leak through the drum seal. The bushings for the drum won't benefit from the oil, in fact the support side of the drum receives no lube at all. Adding another 6 oz probably won't be a problem, but might make a mess. If you have winch rope, it could discolor it if it leaks through the drum onto it.
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2016, 07:48 PM   #91 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Member # 334185
Location: Flint, Tx
Posts: 100
How do ya'll go about sourcing a TJ frame? axles? etc? I've been to our local wrecking yards and they are so picked over, there is not much there. BTW...I really like this project . So...subscribed!

Last edited by hizoot; 01-30-2016 at 07:50 PM.
hizoot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2016, 11:04 PM   #92 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by hizoot View Post
How do ya'll go about sourcing a TJ frame? axles? etc? I've been to our local wrecking yards and they are so picked over, there is not much there. BTW...I really like this project . So...subscribed!
I found mine on craigslist. A local shop here in Northern California called predator off road had posted it and sold it to me. One of their customers was ditching his frame and axles in order to build a tube tube chassis for his rig. I had a CHP buddy run the frame numbers off of it to make sure nothing was stolen and all was good.

I know another guy on here got his frame from Daveys jeeps.
*Linked his thread below:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ht-willys.html
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-31-2016, 08:51 AM   #93 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Member # 334185
Location: Flint, Tx
Posts: 100
Thanks for the input! I guess it makes a big difference of how popular an activity is in an area. I'll have to broaden my search.
hizoot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2018, 12:31 AM   #94 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
PhotoBucket hosting issues removed the photos from this build thread. If you'd like to see some of the progress on my build or follow along as I finish it up I have created an instagram account under the username "OG_4X4" feel free to follow!
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2018, 01:12 AM   #95 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Member # 343466
Location: WV
Posts: 760
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigseth View Post
PhotoBucket hosting issues removed the photos from this build thread. If you'd like to see some of the progress on my build or follow along as I finish it up I have created an instagram account under the username "OG_4X4" feel free to follow!
Nope, you just need to download the add-on for firefox or chrome that let's you see the pics anyway.
wvjeepguy81 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-30-2018, 01:44 PM   #96 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
wvjeepguy81 you rock..problem solved, thanks for enlightening me.

Well then, I'll just post one of the most recent pics of the build here.

sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-13-2018, 11:29 AM   #97 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Member # 464625
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 133
Looking to get input from those who have been there and done that..Should I use Raptor liner in the engine bay and undercarriage or go with some other sort of product/undercoating?
sigseth is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-13-2018, 11:31 AM   #98 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Member # 212988
Posts: 3,658
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigseth View Post
Looking to get input from those who have been there and done that..Should I use Raptor liner in the engine bay and undercarriage or go with some other sort of product/undercoating?
I havent pained yet but I am going with lizard skin under carrage
HankScorpi0 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-13-2018, 12:35 PM   #99 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Member # 187666
Location: Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigseth View Post
Looking to get input from those who have been there and done that..Should I use Raptor liner in the engine bay and undercarriage or go with some other sort of product/undercoating?
My cousin sprayed raptor liner in the bed of his Toyota pickup. Overall he said application was easy but he was not impressed with the finished product. He said it seemed almost brittle. Like if you dropped something heavy in the bed and it made a dent, the raptor liner wouldn't move with the metal and ultimately crack or chip.

Maybe his technique or application process contributed in some way. I have been looking at Monstaliner for the inside and underneath of my tub. Still a bit more fab work before I'm ready for it tho.
lurch9 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-14-2018, 06:53 PM   #100 (permalink)
Registered User
 
TimCubed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Member # 220897
Location: Pollock Pines ca.
Posts: 1,580
I sprayed Raptor on the inside of my GPW tub approx. 5 yrs. ago, a very easy product to use, lots of stink for about 3 days while curing, but it came out with a perfect uniform hard texture.............
5 years later... my mufflers were about 1" from the bottom of the tub on both sides, the Raptor lifted and flaked off in the shape of the mufflers, and I'm sure with a putty knife I could just flake a few more inches off before I would find good adhesion. Around my cage mounts where there is a little flex the Raptor has cracked and lifted. This was a brand new reproduction tub, no rust, I prepped the tub with brake clean and a scotch bright. I do use the rig a lot, Rubicon 15+ times a year. My opinion, have your tub Line-X'd or Rhino Lined and never have to deal with it again. I'm going to have my new project Rhino-Lined in 2 weeks. The Line-X has a hard textured feel. The Rhino-Liner has a softer rubber texture which I like. I have emailed for quotes but no replies yet. My truck was $400.00 to have Line-X'd. Tim
__________________
'44 GPW Stretched and Linked
'51 Willys bigger Stretch bigger Links
TimCubed is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.