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Old 08-11-2016, 10:46 AM   #76 (permalink)
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that's quite a difference! what changed? I had assumed those previous welds were fluxcore. Were you not getting enough gas flow?
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:27 AM   #77 (permalink)
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This is all kinds of excellent.

That 2.3 is just aching for a small turbo.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:38 PM   #78 (permalink)
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that's quite a difference! what changed? I had assumed those previous welds were fluxcore. Were you not getting enough gas flow?
I did get a new gas tank between welding the bellhousing and the frame, the other one was running low. Also replaced my tip on the gun. I may not have been getting good gas flow. I also fiddled with the knobs on the welder a bit and worked on my technique. I think I was just doing a little bit of everything wrong.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:39 PM   #79 (permalink)
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This is all kinds of excellent.

That 2.3 is just aching for a small turbo.
It'll just be N/A to start with, but don't think a turbo hasn't crossed my mind
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:16 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Not to sound stupid but whats different about the mustang 2.3 that the pinto bellhousing won't work? I'm in the process of collecting parts for a 65 Cj5 build and I have the right bellhousing for a Pinto 2.3 to t90 swap with novak adapter. The mustang and ranger 2.3s are easier to come by.
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:31 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Fantastic! Great job on the bell housing / adaptation of the T-90 to 2.3! Nice to see a 4 banger swap. Don't feel bad about the pace of your build. You've got company- mine is sure slow!
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Old 08-27-2016, 05:34 PM   #82 (permalink)
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I'm digging this build so much. the bell housing is unreal. keep up the good work. i'm inspired!!
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:46 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Not to sound stupid but whats different about the mustang 2.3 that the pinto bellhousing won't work? I'm in the process of collecting parts for a 65 Cj5 build and I have the right bellhousing for a Pinto 2.3 to t90 swap with novak adapter. The mustang and ranger 2.3s are easier to come by.
I actually have the Pinto 2.3 bellhousing too, bought it off ebay thinking I could use it and the Novak adapter. However, the ranger and mustang 2.3s that were mated to a T-5 have a completely different bellhousing pattern, it's not even similar to the pinto style. I don't know enough about them to know when it changed, but mine is '93. I suspect it changed when they went to fuel injection and the T-5 trans instead of the older 4 speed.

I didn't have any super exciting new photos to post, nothing that hasn't been seen a hundred times here. I've finished boxing in the frame, and replaced the frame rails from the front shock mounts forward with new pieces of 2x4x1/8 steel. I am also trying to figure out what springs I want, I'm looking at Alcan and Deaver at the moment. then I need to make some bumpers, get some shackles and shackle hangers, and I'll be close to a rolling chassis. Then it's on to engine mounts!

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Old 08-28-2016, 08:54 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Don't forget Atlas Spring also. They did some nice springs for at least one member here (DanielBuck) and have lots of custom and semi-custom options.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:58 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Don't forget Atlas Spring also. They did some nice springs for at least one member here (DanielBuck) and have lots of custom and semi-custom options.
They were my first choice, but they don't answer the phone and don't return emails and voice mails. I've tried to get in touch with them for a while now and gave up.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:05 PM   #86 (permalink)
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They were my first choice, but they don't answer the phone and don't return emails and voice mails. I've tried to get in touch with them for a while now and gave up.
That is a shame.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:29 AM   #87 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=brengl1942;38054313]I actually have the Pinto 2.3 bellhousing too, bought it off ebay thinking I could use it and the Novak adapter. However, the ranger and mustang 2.3s that were mated to a T-5 have a completely different bellhousing pattern, it's not even similar to the pinto style. I don't know enough about them to know when it changed, but mine is '93. I suspect it changed when they went to fuel injection and the T-5 trans instead of the older 4 speed.

Thanks. I kinda figured that. Ford has too many bellhousing patterns.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:29 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Slow and steady, making progress.
-Replaced front frame horns.
-Finished boxing and strapping the frame, plus quite a bit of misc cutting, welding, grinding, and straightening
-Built a rear bumper
-Ordered a set of Alcan springs and MORE shackles.
-Welded on shackle hangers (Stock repros from kaiser-willys)
-and the BIG milestone today, I have a rolling chassis! At least in mocked-up form. Unfortunately it'll all come apart again eventually.

The part anyone cares about, the pictures:

















Oh, and that red towel that appears in several of the pics, I'm not toweling myself off . I use it when I have to run the cut off wheel or grinder in the garage to catch the dust, it'll actually catch most of the sparks and dust flying off the grinder so there is less dust in the garage. I have come close to catching it on fire a couple times though.

Last edited by brengl1942; 10-23-2016 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:30 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:41 AM   #90 (permalink)
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It looks like the Ford 2.3 is going to fit nicely with room to spare and the mounts should be very straightforward to construct, but does anyone have pointers on engine positioning?
I have not done an engine install like this before where I'm having to position it and create mounts from scratch, and I'm worried about "gotchas" that I may be overlooking. As pictured it is about as high up as I can get it and still clear the hood, and the transmission is lined up pretty well with the trans tunnel. I do not yet have the transfer case attached to check alignment with the axles.


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Old 11-04-2016, 10:29 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Is that 2x4 .120 tubing you used for the frame horn repair?

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Old 11-05-2016, 05:21 AM   #92 (permalink)
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It looks like the Ford 2.3 is going to fit nicely with room to spare and the mounts should be very straightforward to construct, but does anyone have pointers on engine positioning?
I have not done an engine install like this before where I'm having to position it and create mounts from scratch, and I'm worried about "gotchas" that I may be overlooking. As pictured it is about as high up as I can get it and still clear the hood, and the transmission is lined up pretty well with the trans tunnel. I do not yet have the transfer case attached to check alignment with the axles.

Front driveshaft clearance to the bellhousing and starter and clearance for the steering on the other side are a few things that come to mind. I'm sure there's more room with the 4 cylinder than with a V6! Keep up the good work!
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Old 11-05-2016, 04:11 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Is that 2x4 .120 tubing you used for the frame horn repair?
yes, 2x4" for the front horns, and then 3" square for the front cross member.

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Old 11-05-2016, 04:17 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Houston, we have a problem:



Seems like many people have gone through this song and dance with an engine swap. I don't even have the weight of the engine on the frame yet. It'll sit even closer when I do and the suspension squats down.

Not sure how to address this. 2-piece driveshaft setup? I could do a small body lift and raise the drivetrain in the chassis, but I still probably can't gain more than an inch or so with that method. I've played with clocking the engine towards the driver side, and that helps a little. I'll need to modify the transfer case's mount on the crossmember if I keep it that way. It'll also improve slightly once the front output shaft yoke is fully installed.
I need to get a starter motor and mount in there so I can see how much of that I can grind down for extra clearance. It's going to be tight no matter what I do though, and I'm not sure if I can tweak and grind things to gain enough clearance. It may require a 2-piece setup with a pretty severe angle coming off the transfer case.

Also the engine sits pretty far to the driver side as I have it mocked up now, about as far as I'd like, but the transfer case output is still not perfectly in line with the rear axle input. How much of a concern is it to have a slight angle here? I'm worried about vibration at highway speeds.

Last edited by brengl1942; 11-05-2016 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:09 PM   #95 (permalink)
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The original driveshafts are small diameter for a reason. Your picture isn't showing, so it's hard to comment. The engine is usually tilted up at the front a bit, often matching the centerline angle of the pinion. I think a few degrees of misalignment of the rear shaft is probably negligible, but others will disagree. Two-piece shafts for the front were used on jeepster commandos, with a bearing supported off the bottom of the transfer case shifter. I have seen people use a shaft with a pillow block bolted to a frame bracket. That makes some imperfect angles too but again probably negligible. My front driveshaft rubs the bellhousing when I'm going down a steep hill with someone riding shotgun, but that's at its max limit. Most of the time it's not any problem!
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:33 PM   #96 (permalink)
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hopefully I fixed the photos

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Old 11-06-2016, 02:13 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Played around with it a bit more today, with a 1" lift on the drivetrain, as well as the body to accomodate, I have about 1 1/8" between the front driveshaft and the starter. I can probably gain another 1/4" by grinding the starter mount.

On the plus side, that would give me an almost flat underbody,but it would require a custom trans mount, and I still don't think it will be nearly enough clearance. Just a rough estimate using basic Trig functions, I might have 3" of uptravel available on before the driveshaft would hit the starter. That's just considering nothing else moves but the position of the front pumpkin.

The other thing that is bugging me about this is I have the engine offset about 5" to the driver's side, to get close to having the driveline lined up side to side. I don't recall the old F-head requiring this much offset. It makes for a very long engine mount on the passenger side, and reduced clearance on the driver's side.

Last edited by brengl1942; 11-07-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:26 AM   #98 (permalink)
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CJ7's used a 1" thick front driveshaft. It's what I would do on this.

Not like you'll have super power.

If you're that worried about it, skew the engine, transmission and t-case a few degrees to the left front.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:56 AM   #99 (permalink)
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CJ7's used a 1" thick front driveshaft. It's what I would do on this.

Not like you'll have super power.

If you're that worried about it, skew the engine, transmission and t-case a few degrees to the left front.
Thanks. Maybe I'm too concerned about it, but it's easier to address at this stage of the game when I can still change almost anything. It would suck to finish the whole jeep only to realize that I can't drive over a dead squirrel without the driveshaft hitting.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:17 PM   #100 (permalink)
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I don't see that it's a problem... flex it out, see IF it hits.
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