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Old 11-07-2016, 01:53 PM   #101 (permalink)
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That actually looks like tons of room.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:28 PM   #102 (permalink)
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It looks like more room than I have now that the picture is up. My shocks only show that I use about two inches of uptravel with the V6 in there. Why didn't you just clock the starter around somewhere else? Sorry, probably my poor sense of humor kicking in.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:45 PM   #103 (permalink)
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It looks like more room than I have now that the picture is up. My shocks only show that I use about two inches of uptravel with the V6 in there. Why didn't you just clock the starter around somewhere else? Sorry, probably my poor sense of humor kicking in.
Ha, yeah that would have been a good thing to do when I built the bellhousing. I think it would be easier said than done though with the exhaust on the passenger side. This has shown me the advantages of the old L-head and F-head design with the intake and exhaust sides swapped around and the starter way up high.
Tonight I modified my trans crossmember to allow it to sit an inch higher, and I'm going to mount the engine based on that and roll with it, you guys' comments have given me confidence in it. Plus I'll have a nearly flat underbelly.

Last edited by brengl1942; 11-07-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:18 AM   #104 (permalink)
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I recently purchased a CJ-3B and was planning on swapping a 1998-2001 Ranger Lima engine but after reading your build thread I may be changing plans due to the bell housing issue.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:33 PM   #105 (permalink)
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I recently purchased a CJ-3B and was planning on swapping a 1998-2001 Ranger Lima engine but after reading your build thread I may be changing plans due to the bell housing issue.
I didn't really entertain alternate transmission options, I wanted to keep the T-90, but definitely do some research. The older style 2.3's would definitely be simpler.
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:09 AM   #106 (permalink)
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I'll probably stick with the current trans assuming it's in good shape when I tear it apart and find an older pinto style motor.

Do you still have the pinto bellhousing? If so would you be interested in selling it?
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:20 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Been working on the engine mounts a bit. I had the local machine shop mill me a couple of bushings that fit into the factory engine mount brackets, then built the rest out of 1/4" stock. I'll weld them onto the frame once I'm satisfied with them.
I have driver's side pretty much done. Debating if I should box it in or not, or if it will be strong enough as-is. I think the weak point will be where the arms are welded to the bushing, and fully boxing it might strengthen that.
Any thoughts on that?





I'm hoping I'll have plenty of room for the steering linkage through here.


Last edited by brengl1942; 12-05-2016 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:46 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I would cap the outside between the uprights. That should help forward and aft strength saving wear on the transmission mount a bit.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:48 AM   #109 (permalink)
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I would cap the outside between the uprights. That should help forward and aft strength saving wear on the transmission mount a bit.
That should be easy enough. I wasn't sure how much fore/aft forces get applied to the engine mount, vs. up/down.
The passenger side mount is going to be more difficult. It will be a lot longer due to the offset of the engine to accommodate the drivetrain. It'll stick out about 6 1/2" from the frame. I plan to use the same approach, but with more re-enforcement, however I'm a little worried about the torque that will be applied to the frame rail on that side due to the added leverage on the mount. It may be a crack waiting to happen.
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Old 12-18-2016, 03:43 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Finished the engine mounts. I'm pretty happy with how they came out, and the engine went right back in with no trouble. I haven't finished the trans mount yet, but it's clamped in place for the time being.
It may be January before I get back on the jeep, I've got to rebuild the suspension in my old Volvo 740 while I'm off over Christmas. I at least have a roller here now so I can move it out of the garage when I need to.




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Old 06-11-2017, 02:22 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I finally made enough progress to make another update. The drivetrain is finally complete!
I debated on how to do the clutch, and contacted a few companies. I ended up with this:


It's made for a Chrysler transmission, but happened to have the exact diameter for the T-90 bearing retainer, and is sufficiently adjustable to get the correct spacing from the pressure plate. It is extreme overkill for a Willys, but it ought to make life simpler for the clutch operation and it'll hold up to anything I can throw at it.

Installed with the bellhousing:

Last edited by brengl1942; 06-11-2017 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:24 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Stripped down the engine to the longblock and did a complete tuneup with seals, timing belt, water pump, etc..., plus a coat of paint in the original Ford grey. Not the prettiest color, but I wanted to tribute the original GPW.


Last edited by brengl1942; 06-11-2017 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:29 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I painted the transmission and transfer case with the original 33070 OD green paint. Also got a nice goody from Advance Adapters, and buttoned the whole thing up.





We're about to close on a new house (with a bigger workshop!), so it may be a while before I get back to the jeep. I at least have an assembled rolling chassis that will be easier to move.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:31 AM   #114 (permalink)
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I haven't posted in a long time, since we bought the farm, literally, and moved back in 2017. I finally got a head of steam to get back to my jeep.

Axles and disc brakes (new Yukon 5.38 gears, bearings, chromoly axles, etc. Auburn limited slip in the rear).





MTS fuel tank designed for an early CJ5. I had to relocate the rear crossmember slightly and modify the skidplate, but it should work. The skidplate wasn't centered in the bottom photo, it's not hitting the shackles once I center it.





And probably the best part, 32x9.5x16 Wrangler MTs... I also just took delivery of a set of custom 16x7 wheels from WheelSmith. Once I get them painted and the tires mounted, I'll be back to a rolling chassis.


Next up is steering and maybe shock mounting, and then disassembly to paint the frame before I go any further. I also started playing with the wiring harness for the engine. I still want to try and test fire the engine and test the drivetrain before I get too much further.

Last edited by brengl1942; 05-17-2019 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:04 AM   #115 (permalink)
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good to see you back on it....
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:45 AM   #116 (permalink)
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cool
good job on the bellhousing fab
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:02 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Hit a milestone today, it's a roller!





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Old 05-30-2019, 05:54 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Looking great! Nice work! (esp. amazing bell housing!) I dig the new wheels and MT's. Nice choice on the size! The wheels look "original" and the tires are a great fit. More info on the wheels? Haven't seen Wheelsmith wheels- nice! Superb progress!
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:30 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Looking great! Nice work! (esp. amazing bell housing!) I dig the new wheels and MT's. Nice choice on the size! The wheels look "original" and the tires are a great fit. More info on the wheels? Haven't seen Wheelsmith wheels- nice! Superb progress!
Thanks for the compliments! This is their "Vintage" wheel style, without the center caps: Classic Car Vintage Style 2-Piece Steel Wheels | .16x7 with 3.75" backspacing. They easily clear the disc brakes front and rear.
They're in CA near Wheel Vintiques, but honestly those guys were not very friendly on the phone with me and didn't have much knowledge of Jeep CJ wheels. Plus the only one they could do in the size I wanted had double stud holes with different bolt patterns.
The WheelSmith folks on the other hand were very friendly and knowledgeable. The wheels were not cheap though, I admit. I spent way too much money on rolling stock, but I'm sure I'll forget about that once I have this thing running.

Last edited by brengl1942; 05-30-2019 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 06-01-2019, 01:08 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info! I have some 15"x7" Wheel Vintiques steelies on one of my rigs and they worked out well, but I like your Wheel Smith wheels better. The Wheel Vintiques I used have a single pattern of mounting holes. Like you I didn't want the dual pattern which looks pretty lame. They have "hub cap bumps" like the later 60's Kelsey Hayes jeep wheels. I ordered a stock configuration through Summit, so didn't have any discussion with the company directly. They have 4" backspace which is a bit more than I preferred. Your WheelSmith interaction sounds great! I like the way your wheels have smooth centers without hub cap bumps- more like the 50's Willys wheels, and your 3.75" backspace seems like a more ideal fit for the set up your running. Your 16"x7" size and 32" MTR's look like they'll work really nice!

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Old 07-02-2019, 07:13 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Got the front bumper and steering box setup done. Clearancing the front crossmember for the steering shaft and clamp was a royal pain. I'm not too happy with it, but I hope I can clean it up once I disassemble to paint the frame. It will be easier to make it look good when I can flip the frame and get at it from underneath. I figure any loss in strength to the crossmember is made up for by the rigidity of the bumper.

The steering box is a manual Borgeson box from Advance Adapters, and I bought their mounting plate and spud shaft as well. One of the holes in the mounting plate did not line up perfectly. It was very close, but no dice. I ended up having to "massage" it with a drill bit and then run a tap through both the steering box and mounting hole to get them lined up and allow the bolt to go all the way through.

Anyway, anyone see any potential issues with the way I have this set up? I've never done this before and I was basically going by other photos and old articles I found online. If it goes as planned the steering shaft will pass under the engine mount (probably through a bearing or heim joint for support). I'm a little concerned about the angle between the steering column and the shaft, it may need to be split up into sections with an extra U-joint to prevent too severe an angle.
Also fyi the pinion angle is not set yet on the axle, it's tilted a bit back from what it will be in the end.





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Old 10-08-2019, 07:48 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Slow but steady, I started unraveling the patchwork tub and trying to figure out what I want to repair or replace. Made some new floorpan braces with 1x2" rectangle tubing, and using a little "CAD" engineering I cut a new floor out of 16 guage sheet. I've intentionally cut things a little long just to have extra material to get the fit right. I also started in with the wire wheel, and that really tells the tale as the layers of paint and gallons of Bondo disappear. It would be a lot easier to just plunk down cash on a repro tub and call it a day, but then it wouldn't be Pop's jeep any more. This thing has been patched, hacked, and rebuilt who knows how many times over the decades, and I intend to carry on the tradition . Not going for pretty here, just functional. 















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Old 10-08-2019, 07:51 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Starting to patch it up and put it back together. I have no clue what I'm doing with sheet metal, learning this as I go! I've been filling and grinding holes, drilling and welding stress cracks, hammering out dents, and replacing rotted out sections. It's all just heavily 'tacked' at the moment, at some point I'll have to fully weld it up and then spend hours grinding




I'm pretty pleased with how my new floor pan is turning out:


Got it pretty close to its final position with the floorpan brace I made earlier, and started to stitch the two halves back together. Passenger side mated back up almost perfectly. The driver side is so full of bondo at the joint area that I think I'll have to cut out a section of both halves and weld in a new piece. I was hoping to avoid having to shape a wheel well, but oh well. I'm also trying to work out how I want to do the floorpan transition to the bed, thinking I need to figure out which seats I'm going to use first? I discovered the shifter hits the dash, I think because I have the transmission raised about 1 1/2" in the chassis for extra clearance. I planned on raising the body accordingly with 1" or so body mount pucks, which will hopefully solve that problem. Otherwise I may need to shape a new shifter. 

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