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Old 09-04-2015, 07:08 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I've missed your last few updates, but this has turned out very cool! I look forward to seeing it on the trail. Make sure with the low head clearance, that you have a tight seatbelt. In my old blazer, it only took once of ringing my bell pretty hard, to decide to tighten my belt.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:46 AM   #52 (permalink)
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5 points pretty much stop all movement. Then again, were not always strapped in when we should be haha.

I was pretty worried about possibly bashing my head on the B post. Strapped it its just not possible.

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Old 09-04-2015, 11:19 PM   #53 (permalink)
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nice--

FYI i have a tera lo D18 and overdrive-- brand new never used only installed onto a NP435--they're sitting in a box ready to ship --
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:41 AM   #54 (permalink)
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bummer about the radiator getting taken out
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:31 PM   #55 (permalink)
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nice cage Glad to see an update!
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:43 PM   #56 (permalink)
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How much of a gap do you have between the top of the axle and the frame? With the 2.5 YJ springs. Also how long did your shackles end up being?

Jeep looks great, and I'm loving the low and wide.
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:47 AM   #57 (permalink)
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I'd say that there is prolly 6+ inches in the back until the frame hits the axle, and maybe 5-6 in the front. the only thing that hampers my up travel, is the starter to drive shaft clearance, my shackles ended up being 6" long hole to hole. I have it set up with 4" of travel in the front and 5" in the back my overall height is under 67"

Alright here's the sliders, the whole deal with these is I wanted to keep the profile of the factory step or whatever that thing is at the bottom of the fender, and I wanted them simple. Most of all not to hang down or out too far.

Well I started out with 1 1/2 angle.



Marked and then pie cut just one time for the taper in the tub.
For the steps, a lot more cuts to get the radius right, this took a bit of guess and check (maybe a bit of filling with the 210 metal maker too!)


Looks pretty good I think, clean and simple.


Pulled off to final weld and clean up.


As is typical with me that's all the pictures I have. but there's not much else to them, just a few 3/8's holes to mount them, and a cap for the top where the step tapers into the fender. I guess its not really a true slider, but for how light the rig is and the amount of surface area on the body hopefully I should have a really hard time screwing them up.
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:36 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Well, fixed up allot of the issues, new battery box. A new radiator and electric fan, well new to me I guess, Couple of wrecking yard specials. Radiator is out of a volvo 245 pretty big and fits perfectly behind the grill, but no radiator cap. so I found some vintage oddball copper overflow reservoir. Did the later model volvo 2 speed fan. Works pretty slick if you grab the factory 2 speed relay.


Don't think it came out too bad.


most of the new battery box, no more loose battery!

Had it down at the dunes last month, Not the fastest or smoothest thing in the group but man is it fun to drive, and pretty much crawls up anything.


After that its been sitting in the barn for the a month, finally the weather broke and pulled it out today(or yesterday, guess its late?) Anyways put a little charge in the battery and it fired right up, with a puff of blue smoke to let you know its getting oil. Drove it into town to trade off the stock yj springs.

Did manage to come back with some new vintage goodies though,


Needs a bit of work, but it seems like a good replacement for a nice 8274... My stepdad wants his winch back, haha



Chilling out with 48'

Anyways not really much else going on, Going to try and get my t18 in before april, and hopefully I can source an ARB for the front of this thing, but I guess we'll see how it goes.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:10 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Looks good. I'll be watching to see what you do with the Belleview. I just got one too and don't know too much about it. Are you planning a two speed motor upgrade or original cable controls?
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:01 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Looks good. I'll be watching to see what you do with the Belleview. I just got one too and don't know too much about it. Are you planning a two speed motor upgrade or original cable controls?
Thanks! I think i'm going to try and and leave it cable, fits with the whole old school theme, Only problem is is its missing the power in switch on the solenoid so I'm going to have to figure that out.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:05 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Thanks! I think i'm going to try and and leave it cable, fits with the whole old school theme, Only problem is is its missing the power in switch on the solenoid so I'm going to have to figure that out.
I used a starter type solenoid on mine. It seems to have worked well for years now with some REALLY long pulls. No problems so far. I will have to dig for a part number.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:23 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I used a starter type solenoid on mine. It seems to have worked well for years now with some REALLY long pulls. No problems so far. I will have to dig for a part number.
I have a continuous duty 80 amp starter solenoid on mine.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:56 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Good radiator fit. Might just want to place some rubber in between the mount and it though if not already there.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:04 PM   #64 (permalink)
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nice cage
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:40 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Love the look of this rig. The cage looks excellent!
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:36 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Great build.
Did the axles come from the M37 CORNFED is building ?
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Great build.
Did the axles come from the M37 CORNFED is building ?
Thanks! haha yeah we actually just had a good laugh that somebody made that connection! We went up and got almost two complete m37's(in peices) and we're really only going to use the cab for this his build, so thats when I decided might as well use the axles, hate to see any of that old iron go to waste.

Quote:
Good radiator fit. Might just want to place some rubber in between the mount and it though if not already there.
Yeah it fit better than I had hoped, not having the cap to worry about was nice. And I did slip some rubber in there before it went together for the last time, The cool thing about the volvo rad is that its pretty heavy steel braces between the two tanks so it made it possible to actually weld the fan mounts on, so hopefully the rest of it will hold up pretty well.
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Old 12-09-2015, 05:36 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Thanks! haha yeah we actually just had a good laugh that somebody made that connection! We went up and got almost two complete m37's(in peices) and we're really only going to use the cab for this his build, so thats when I decided might as well use the axles, hate to see any of that old iron go to waste.
I am chuckling that you guys are chuckling. I sure miss living in the PNW, the Midwest blows
As a fan of old iron and frugality, threads like these get picked over for details pretty hard by me...
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:11 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Yeah I hear ya, Alot of my family lives in wisconsin, and its crazy visiting everybody is driving brand new trucks, and you never see anything old, its either in a museum or so far gone your afraid to look in case it falls in on itself.

Well nothing really new, But I did have it out saturday! went up to go find some snow, We ended up getting into almost 2 feet of wet icy gross snow, but it was still fun. went along way before we turned around, I was in the back but I guess the road up to an old fire lookout we were trying to get too was getting sketchy(off camber snow drifts on a cliff side road).


So couple of things I need to change, I need to build steering arms, I went from rear steer to tie rod in the front. but all I did was flip the knuckles, so the Ackerman angle is wayyyy off. Need to find a 2.3l core so I can mock up a bellhousing for my scout t18, and tune the 2.3 so its not a royal turd. That samurai in the picture is a bone stock, motor freshly rebuilt, but still higher axle gears and taller tires and it left me in the dust. hopefully things will be changing soonish. thanks
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Old 02-28-2016, 12:48 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Well brought the jeep up from the barn today, Guess I should prolly get it ready for EJS.... Think I have my 4 speed situation figured out. I did some trading with a guy up the road, and ended up with a ford t18, Which has the short 6 1/2" input shaft, 6:1 first, and the trapezoid adapter for the rear output.

The guy I got the tranny from already had it all stripped down and cleaned for me, so I can re-drill for the jeep dana 18/20 adapter. I also need to figure out how to adapt this to the 2.3l I already have.



Man! even just the bare case is heavy, definitely bigger than the t-90




After transfer punching the adapter holes where I wanted it clocked, Drilled and tapped for 3/8-16 should work out great.

At this point I needed a bellhousing to figure out how to adapt that to the transmission. Original plan was to find an extra and use that. That way I didn't have to tear into the jeep until I absolutely had too, but you wouldn't believe how much trouble it is to find an early 2.3l bellhousing. Soooo.......






Off comes the tub, and apart comes the jeep! way better than trying to do it from below. You can see my first goofy adapter set up to make the t90j work with the shallower pinto bellhousing, held up surprisingly well!

So Now I have the bellhousing. Had to open the bearing hole up about .400" for the T18 retainer. The pinto transmission pattern is a quite a bit narrower than the standard Ford, so I plan on drilling a taping into the front of the case and attaching the bellhousing that way.



It should work out great, the way the pinto crank is set up, the factory 7" deep bellhousing works perfectly with the 6 1/2" input shaft, so I shouldn't need any sort of spacer or adapter, but that is tomorrows project so we with see!
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:01 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Well, Have the transmission mocked up where it should be, tossed an old dana 20 I had laying around on the back just for mock up. Also I didn't realize that my transfer case adapter wouldn't work with the d18, so that is just one more thing i've gotta figure out.

Anyways Started working on the mounts and skidplate for the whole setup.
I had a couple of GM transmission mounts laying around from the way I had the t90 mounted. Turns out if you flip them over and notch the bottom (now the top) they bolt right up to a factory t18 adapter.


The lowest point of the new drivetrain is only about 1 1/2 below the frame rails, I should still have reasonable belly clearance.



I started with some 1/4" x 3" flatbar drilled for the mount.



Ended up plating the frame with some 1/8" flat bar, just to simplify the mounting of the skid, It better matches the factory mount(someday I'll have a nice clean straight frame to work with haha). Across the front of the t18 is a piece of 1X2" that will serve as the forward mount for the skid plate the same material is run down each side of the frame the make up the deeper depth the mount is than the frame. Everything should be tied together so hopefully it is plenty strong.



Some more 1/4" x 3" drilled for two of the factory trans crossmember holes then added three others in the extra steel that I added. Tried to add some style with the speed holes.

Well, thats all for now, thanks!
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:45 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Like the Jeep man!

If you don't mind me asking, what are the specs on the M37 axles?

How is the turning radius with the closed knuckles?

Last edited by TGomes1987; 03-05-2016 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:53 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Like the Jeep man!

If you don't mind me asking, what are the specs on the M37 axles?

How is the turning radius with the closed knuckles?
Thanks!

Hmm, anything specific?
the wheel mounting surface is 72"
drop out third member, with a 9 5/8th ring gear,
Coarse 16 spline shafts
5 on 6 5/8ths
and Giant 14 inch drum breaks with snail adjusters
front axles are Tracta joints.

As for turning.... HAHAHA I've seen barges turn tighter circles!

I honestly don't know how well they would turn in proper form, My jeep is so low I had to flip the knuckles to put the tie rod in front of the axle(oil pan clearance) So the ackerman angle is all jacked up, I think with new steering arms it will fix it, but is definitely not an open knuckle axle.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:34 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Thanks!

Hmm, anything specific?
the wheel mounting surface is 72"
drop out third member, with a 9 5/8th ring gear,
Coarse 16 spline shafts
5 on 6 5/8ths
and Giant 14 inch drum breaks with snail adjusters
front axles are Tracta joints.

As for turning.... HAHAHA I've seen barges turn tighter circles!

I honestly don't know how well they would turn in proper form, My jeep is so low I had to flip the knuckles to put the tie rod in front of the axle(oil pan clearance) So the ackerman angle is all jacked up, I think with new steering arms it will fix it, but is definitely not an open knuckle axle.
I was reading through your thread and was curious how they stack up compared to more standard options for axles for vintage rigs. Oddball parts swapping is always more interesting that using what everybody else does.

What is the shaft diameter on the coarse spline shafts?
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:06 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I don't come into the Willys section often, but when I do I always look to see if this build has been bumped. Keep up the good work. I love the simplicity.
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