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Old 05-31-2015, 07:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Baby Blue

After years of wanting one, I finally pulled the trigger and bought myself a Willys. I Bought my first jeep when I was 15, a '78 CJ-5, and have had one ever since, I also currently have an '06 rubicon, but I always wanted a flat fender. Now that I have one, the rubicon is for sale 2006 Jeep TJ Rubicon.

I recently picked up a 1947 CJ-2A that was for sale here on pirate and have been getting to know it. Here's what I know so far, 302 V8, C-4 tranny, Dana 18 T-case, Dana 44 rear and a Dana 30 closed knuckle front. I'm not sure what the gear ratio is, but at 65 mph I'm turning about 3600 rpm, so an overdrive is going to be the first major mod. One question I have about the transfer case, is what temperature do the normally run at? I don't have a gauge for it, but putting a temp gun on it after a highway trip is giving me right around 200 on average, I'm guessing the overdrive would help this??

I've been driving it all over and using it as my daily driver since I got it, but today I was finally able to get it offroad to really test it out. It did a lot better than I expected, but the carb floods out really easy. I can tell that it running rich during normal driving and I can imagine that's not helping anything when it come to offroad angles. I know absolutely nothing about carbs so I'm going to need some help on that one. The goal with this jeep is to make a capable offroad vehicle that can comfortably cruise to the trial or around town, I definitely don't want to turn it into anything extreme. So far I'm thinking overdrive, Holbrook long leafs moved back 3", rear fender mod to move the seat back (I'm 6'4"), rear rack for the spare tire/fuel cans, sliders to protect the body and generally going throught the whole thing to make it as reliable of a driver as I can. I'll keep this thread updated as I go, I'm sure I'm going to need some help and advice along the way.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The first thing I need help with, is how the hell do you post pics from an iPhone??
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Congrats on the new flattie, it sounds like you have a pretty good start on a great rig. An item I can point out to help is that as I understand it the overdrive can't be used with an auto tranny. What carb do you have on there?
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't see why it wouldn't work with an automatic, the transfer case doesn't know the difference. I could see not being able to shift it on the fly like a manual as the auto would always be under load, but I would imagine you could select the overdrive before you take off and be fine.

It's got an Edelbrock carb (I have no idea what kind) with an Edelbrock Torker 289 intake manifold
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Since I got pics to post, here it is the day I brought it home
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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And since it's one pic at a time, here it is today after my little wheeling trip
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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And here's a shot of the engine compartment
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here's one more from today's playing around, I tried this obstacle fully expecting to not make it up, my rubicon has made it once and been stuck twice. The little Willys definitely worked for it, but it made it with a constantly flooding engine and open diffs! I was told that it had lockers in it, most likely lockrites, but it was definitely fully open on both ends. I'll have to pull the cover off and see what's inside. For now, the left foot locker method worked just fine!
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Last edited by xbcasey; 05-31-2015 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's another view of the carb, anybody know what model it is and what to do with it??
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok your understanding is correct, you can't shift under load and you don't have a clutch with an auto so you have to engage or disengage in neutral/park. So it's usable but not as much as with a manual transmission.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf
Here is edelbrock's owners manual, there is tuning instructions here.
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Congrats and welcome aboard.

I can't help you with the carb, but if you search for the garage thread there's parts for sale there that may help with what you want. (I have a brand new tera lo dana 18/20 and an OD never used for sale)...

I have no idea what temp the t-case runs at, but it wouldn't surprise if they run hot.

My 48cj2a had a 302 in it and a carb on it. Thing ran really good, but I never had it offroad either(started the modifications too soon), but on the street there was no issue at all. I'll see if I can get the info on it, as the motor is at a high school for the auto shop kids to possibly rebuild it as a project. It did run good, but my buddy(teacher) wants to have them rebuild it, so what the 'ell I let them have it.

I put the Pertronix ignition stuff in the distributor also, so you might want to think of doing that also.

I'd jack the rear up and spin a tire one revolution and count how many revolutions the driveshaft turns to see what the approximate gear ratio is.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I guessed at your tire size, as they look like 33s? I used that and the 3600rpm at 65mph on the Summit calculator and sounds like they are 5.38s .
Since you don't have a 100% complete history on it, suggest you make sure that D30 has 5.38s in it too.....

If you are concerned about transfer case temp , make sure to use hi-quality gear oil, like Mystic 7 or better yet use Amsoil Gear Lube. Will run cooler. You can't beat synthetics!

Nice looking little rig!
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips, I'll try messing with that carb after work today after work. The tires are 33's and 5.38 was my guess for the gears so that makes sense, I'll double check that this afternoon as well. I've had it in four wheel drive a good bit and it doesn't try to run itself over so the gears are matched front and rear. I am planning to drain the T-case and diffs and fill them with Lucas gear oil, I ran that stuff exclusively when I was racing and loved it. I'll away from synthetic though as it won't work well with the overdrive when I get one.
The 302 is definitely set rich but it still runs great on the street, it just falls flat on its face as soon as you get it on an angle. I realized how much that sucks when I started down a steep rocky hill and the engine flooded out and died, goodbye power brakes and steering!
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Neat little flat fender. The cj5 style rear corners are kinda throwing me for a loop though....

D30 closed knuckle? Got a picture? Any idea how wide it is?

My best advice with the transfer case. Don't try and go 65 at 3600rpm The overdrive won't help rear output speed. It only reduces engine RPM. Everything is still going to be spinning REALLY fast. Mine doesn't seem to like a rear output speed above 3000rpm much....it runs hotter and leaks more for sure. If you do run an overdrive, don't use synthetic.

On the carb. You can block off the fuel crossover passages. That helps the edelbrock carbs a lot. They make an 'off-road' kit for them with a spring loaded needle and seat if I remember right. Lowering the float level will help a little bit, but if you get it to low you will have lean surge on the highway. You will also want to look at regulating the fuel presssure down to about 4psi.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:39 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The tub also has me a little confused, it's a CJ-2A but it doesn't have a tailgate and it has the different rear corners, so I'm not sure if it's a reproduction tub or what the deal is. I have some new brake pads ordered for the front end, I'll take some pictures and measure it when I have the tires off. I plan to try leaning out the carb some this afternoon. I'm interested in trying that crossover block off, but don't know a thing about what I'd be doing, I have a bit of experience with mechanical fuel injection, but am clueless with carbs
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:13 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The tub also has me a little confused, it's a CJ-2A but it doesn't have a tailgate and it has the different rear corners, so I'm not sure if it's a reproduction tub or what the deal is. I have some new brake pads ordered for the front end, I'll take some pictures and measure it when I have the tires off. I plan to try leaning out the carb some this afternoon. I'm interested in trying that crossover block off, but don't know a thing about what I'd be doing, I have a bit of experience with mechanical fuel injection, but am clueless with carbs
This explains it pretty well...

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...l#post29776705
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Awesome, thank you! I'll check that out this afternoon
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So I jacked up the rear end, marked everything, and spun the drive line by hand, 5.38's looks to be right on the money. The. I pulled the cover off the rear diff to see what was going on inside and this is what I found....
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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That custom tub is wild.
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have no idea how that got turned all around, but it sure doesn't look like a lockrite
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
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On the bright side, the gears look good and this is almost zero pinion slop. Here's a pic of the front end for Mieser
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:06 PM   #22 (permalink)
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And here's the knuckle
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I think that is just a 25 or 27 front. All the covers look the same. Have you pulled a hub off yet? Is it 10 spline or 27 spline?

Does the rear end have two-piece axles or one-piece axles? Easy way to check is if the rear brake backing place has a 6 bolt symmetrical bolt pattern.

The rear diff is throwing me for a loop. It doesn't look like a typical open diff. It doesn't look like a Power-lok or Track-lok either.....
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I plan to change the front brake shoes tomorrow, I'll try pulling the hub then to see what the spline count is. It has Selectro hubs on it, one of them turns really easy, the other one takes a good bit of pressure to turn it. I've tried researching but couldn't find out if there is any maintanence to do to them, grease/oil etc. The rear diff has me stumped, it doesn't look like an open diff, but it sure works like one. I was told that it had one piece axles, and the backing plate has six bolts so I hope that's the case
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:54 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Looks like it might be a torn limited slip. That is a gear driven lsd. No clutches.
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