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Old 08-12-2015, 12:33 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Gotcha.
I think the possibility of starting in something other than low gear exists for these transmissions.
I could play with mine and get back to you. In a stock application it may not be possible, but I bet it could be programmed in.
Our 2015 Suburban has a D and M indicator, in M you can select any gear from 1st through 4th. I will play with it and see if it allows a start in 2nd or 3rd.
I've felt some type of hill descent control on this trans too, but I have to read more of the owners manual to understand how it works.
It's the wife's new car so I don't get to play with it often, but we are driving out to Prescott this weekend so I'll get some time behind the wheel.
The 6L80e has a ton of flexibility for playing around with stuff. It has some mostly unused 'gates' below D and M1 that can be opened up with the right softward. It is also a clutch to clutch transmission so you don't have much of a 'pause' between shifts where power is not getting to the wheels.

If the factory BCM is integrated into the computer harness with the Gen 4 engines you can play with stuff like tap shift ( not having to flash the TCU to a vette file ), cruise control, tow/haul mode, low range switch, etc.

Lots of fun stuff to play with.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:24 PM   #52 (permalink)
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While searching around today I saw Novaks site had a pretty nice write up on this transmission. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it.
This is a whole new level of complexity from the simple carbed, stick shift Jeep.
This one will be fun to watch.
Will you create your own separate wiring looms for major components, cut up existing looms or a combination of the two?
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:08 PM   #53 (permalink)
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LT230s have a lockable center differential? I think that there are some advantages to that, particularly in keeping strain on the front end parts low. However, I don't miss having to bungee a NP203 into low-lock.

Edit: Yeah, you said that already. Sorry.
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It is set up for full-time 4wd just like the J80 chassis.

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Old 08-13-2015, 07:41 AM   #54 (permalink)
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While searching around today I saw Novaks site had a pretty nice write up on this transmission. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it.
This is a whole new level of complexity from the simple carbed, stick shift Jeep.
This one will be fun to watch.
Will you create your own separate wiring looms for major components, cut up existing looms or a combination of the two?
I will likely just buy a new 'done' harness. I'm not an electronics guy really. I had a long chat with the guys over at PacFab about the project.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:44 AM   #55 (permalink)
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LT230s have a lockable center differential? I think that there are some advantages to that, particularly in keeping strain on the front end parts low. However, I don't miss having to bungee a NP203 into low-lock.

Edit: Yeah, you said that already. Sorry.
Just to clarify, yes, the LT230 has a locking center diff. Looking at my spare parts case it looks like a very simple system. Basically just a shift lever in the front housing that activates a sliding collar that locks to the case of the center diff.

I would like to have a separate lever for the high-low function and the center diff lock function. I think being able to run low 'unlocked' could have some advantages when trying to turn on higher traction surfaces. In theory, you could also drag the parking brake and make it 'dig' the front wheels a bit.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:13 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Just to clarify, yes, the LT230 has a locking center diff. Looking at my spare parts case it looks like a very simple system. Basically just a shift lever in the front housing that activates a sliding collar that locks to the case of the center diff.

I would like to have a separate lever for the high-low function and the center diff lock function. I think being able to run low 'unlocked' could have some advantages when trying to turn on higher traction surfaces. In theory, you could also drag the parking brake and make it 'dig' the front wheels a bit.
The advantage of the adapter you quoted is that it uses the LR shifter, one stick, that does what you want. H-L unlocked or locked. Not sure if it will fit with the interior you have in mind.

The center diff is prone to lube breakdown. Not sure I would dig with it.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:47 AM   #57 (permalink)
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The advantage of the adapter you quoted is that it uses the LR shifter, one stick, that does what you want. H-L unlocked or locked. Not sure if it will fit with the interior you have in mind.

The center diff is prone to lube breakdown. Not sure I would dig with it.
yeah, digging with the center diff isn't at the top of my list, but I think just having it open will help turning in low range no matter what, especially in places like Moab.

I will have to see how the position for the factory shifter looks. I think I have to buy a new shift rod thing also from the manufacturer. Since the cabin is going to be a little narrow I would like to try and minimize the space taken up by the shifters. I have been looking at 'all-in-one' solutions for the 6l80 with the tap shift function built into the shifter. There seems to be a few different options at least from OEM applications.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:09 AM   #58 (permalink)
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I'm about ready to cut the back off the tub...

Since I am doing so much metal work on this one I am thinking about having it media blasted down to bare metal? What is the best 'media' to have used that causes the least issues with welding and paint? Thoughts? Ideas?
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:22 AM   #59 (permalink)
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pressure wash it?? should remove the paint with the right pressure and nozzle--let it air dry and you are good or you can blow dry it, but the wife may be pissed if you don't have a replacement for her!!!
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:24 AM   #60 (permalink)
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pressure wash it?? should remove the paint with the right pressure and nozzle--let it air dry and you are good or you can blow dry it, but the wife may be pissed if you don't have a replacement for her!!!
I haven't seen a pressure washer with that much force other than a 'dustless' blasting system which I don't have access to locally. I have some surface rust that I would like to get off along with 30 year old OE paint and primer. That stuff is stuck on pretty good.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:30 AM   #61 (permalink)
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I haven't seen a pressure washer with that much force other than a 'dustless' blasting system which I don't have access to locally. I have some surface rust that I would like to get off along with 30 year old OE paint and primer. That stuff is stuck on pretty good.
As thick as an fj tub is, you can use sand. You aren't going to warp the panels easily.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:38 AM   #62 (permalink)
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As thick as an fj tub is, you can use sand. You aren't going to warp the panels easily.
Thanks. I gotta call the local place and see what they have for options vs cost.
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:31 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Baking Soda is the new blast media that they use to minimize panel warpage from what I've read. Very environmentally friendly as well.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:00 PM   #64 (permalink)
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walnut chips too i read.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:14 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Baking Soda is the new blast media that they use to minimize panel warpage from what I've read. Very environmentally friendly as well.
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walnut chips too i read.
Both have been around for decades. Both are a lot more gentle than sand. And FJA 40 tub is pretty significantly thick. As I said I am 99% sure he will be fine with sand. The key with the sand is making sure none of it resides in a pocket of the frame that isn't blown out after blasting.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:06 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Agree with sand. It takes forever to remove good factory auto paint even with a 5 hp 20 cfm air compressor and soft media makes it worse. Pieces as big as that either take more air or patience than I have, maybe both.

There exists an attachment for a small electric pressure washer (maybe for bigger ones too) which feeds sand in at the nozzle. Really seems like a much different process than blasting with air, more like a water jet cutter converted to surface prep tool, because of the way fluid density affects the physics. And fast, it strips cured concrete off a shovel almost like mud. Not sure how this might affect body panels, but it wouldn't cost much to find out.

Here's one: http://m.northerntool.com/products/s...?hotline=false

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Old 08-21-2015, 08:40 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I am just going to take this out. The local place ( a power coat shop ) charges $120/hour for blasting. They do a media blasting process using 'Starbright' from Dupont.

https://www.chemours.com/Titanium_Te..._H_60159_2.pdf

I guess I need to get the body stripped down, brace it up, and cut off the back....

Does anyone have a good recommendation for something to prevent flash rusting? I live in the dry southwest, but wiping/spraying it down with something doesn't seem like a bad idea.
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:22 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I am just going to take this out. The local place ( a power coat shop ) charges $120/hour for blasting. They do a media blasting process using 'Starbright' from Dupont.



https://www.chemours.com/Titanium_Te..._H_60159_2.pdf



I guess I need to get the body stripped down, brace it up, and cut off the back....



Does anyone have a good recommendation for something to prevent flash rusting? I live in the dry southwest, but wiping/spraying it down with something doesn't seem like a bad idea.

I talked with some desert race guys here once and they wipe everything with WD-40.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:16 PM   #69 (permalink)
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WD40 here also.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:43 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I need to do a test....how is welding through wiped on WD40? I'm guessing you need to clean everything with some acetone or something?
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:45 PM   #71 (permalink)
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In humid Florida you have to prime it right away. Most blasting places will shoot primer too around here.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:15 PM   #72 (permalink)
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I need to do a test....how is welding through wiped on WD40? I'm guessing you need to clean everything with some acetone or something?
Wd40 would not be my first choice. It all has to come off for welding. I'd probably shoot it with a cheap primer. If it came down to it, I'd blast and primer after the modifications. Or say f it, surface rust is cool!
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:59 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Both have been around for decades. Both are a lot more gentle than sand. And FJA 40 tub is pretty significantly thick. As I said I am 99% sure he will be fine with sand. The key with the sand is making sure none of it resides in a pocket of the frame that isn't blown out after blasting.
16 gauge on the earlier models and 18 on the later models, right?

IMO, That shit is just asking to get warped.

Walnut or baking soda ftw.

@ LLoyd and anybody else who mentioned the pressure-washer sand blaster. They make these systems for non-electric high pressure washers as well. We almost bought one for the 4k PSI systems that my dads pumps use.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:32 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Interesting. I am much more impressed with the pressure blaster sand injection stuff than I thought I would be....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f87jqnbELfY
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Old 08-22-2015, 08:53 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I really like Boeshield as a spray on rust preventative for bare metal, it dries to a waxy consistency and lasts better than WD40. You would have to remove it before Welding though.

I first found out about it for use on cast iron woodworking equipment, think keeping a table saw table from rusting.

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