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Old 08-22-2015, 09:02 AM   #76 (permalink)
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I really like Boeshield as a spray on rust preventative for bare metal, it dries to a waxy consistency and lasts better than WD40. You would have to remove it before Welding though.

I first found out about it for use on cast iron woodworking equipment, think keeping a table saw table from rusting.
What does it take to clean it off?
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Old 08-22-2015, 10:57 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Cool project Meiser


A hot rod guy that gets powder coating at our shop was telling us about dry ice blasting. Sounded pretty good
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Old 08-23-2015, 09:30 AM   #78 (permalink)
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What does it take to clean it off?
I'd think a wipe with acetone would do it.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:22 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I clean my weld areas with acetone and then before painting I used a metal cleaner on all bare metal.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:52 AM   #80 (permalink)
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To blast the body before or after all the mods? I have heard it both ways....

Opinions?
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:03 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I'd say depends on the mods. If it was a pain to clean off the area I would be working on if blast 1st
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:53 AM   #82 (permalink)
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I'd say depends on the mods. If it was a pain to clean off the area I would be working on if blast 1st
I'm cutting the back of the tub off behind the doors, removing the floor, pinching the doors parallel to each other, building a few floor, creating an integrated cage framework, and then skinning the new framework to form the rear of the tub....

That is the short version
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:49 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Cool project for sure! I would not worry about those axles at all. The rear axle is beef stock, the only problem is shearing hub studs, there are a few options for fixing that and you wont have to worry about the R&P if you drive like a sane person. The front axles HP 8" diff can be a problem for some people, however you could always get an FJ 60/62 front axle, which has the 9.5" diff, get one of the mini truck axle housing widening kits and run your fj80 knuckle balls and outers to give yourself the bigger birfs of the 80. Or buy a ruffstuff housing and weld your knuckle balls off the 80 axle to that.

You are right about the modular nature of toyotas, and its not just body panels. It's crazy how many drivetrain components interchange with each other through out the years.

Loved the willys, the cruiser should turn out sweet!
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:44 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Cool project for sure! I would not worry about those axles at all. The rear axle is beef stock, the only problem is shearing hub studs, there are a few options for fixing that and you wont have to worry about the R&P if you drive like a sane person. The front axles HP 8" diff can be a problem for some people, however you could always get an FJ 60/62 front axle, which has the 9.5" diff, get one of the mini truck axle housing widening kits and run your fj80 knuckle balls and outers to give yourself the bigger birfs of the 80. Or buy a ruffstuff housing and weld your knuckle balls off the 80 axle to that.

You are right about the modular nature of toyotas, and its not just body panels. It's crazy how many drivetrain components interchange with each other through out the years.

Loved the willys, the cruiser should turn out sweet!
Yeah, I like the Toyota stuff. This chassis should be really fun to build off of. It feels like cheating starting with a frame, suspension, steering, and axles that are all basically done ( with lockers! ). I'm going to get through the initial build with as much stock stuff as possible. Then I can look at upgrades.

The largest part of this project ( or most difficult ) is going to be making the little FJ45-esk body.

Our new house fell through so hopefully I can get rolling on this project soon. I spent most of last weekend cleaning and organizing the shop to make room for this new project.

The best part is I don't HAVE to build fast. I have my flat fender sitting there all done and ready to go for whatever misc adventures that pop up.

I would like to at least get the body build in the next few months so I can get it mounted onto the frame. Once that is done I will have a chassis that I can roll around instead of big parts just sitting out in the yard!
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:45 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Yup! The other nice thing about Toyotas is the parts are actually strong from the factory, unlike jeeps you don't need axle swaps to run 33's! I have a friend running 40's on a mostly stock FzJ80 with minimal issues.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:08 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Yup! The other nice thing about toyotas is the parts are actually strong from the factory, you don't need axle swaps to run 33's!
The toyota stuff isn't tons, but I just didn't want to put that much money into this build. This build is basically going to be a time filler to let technology/industry catch up with what I need for support with this....



I just couldn't get this 'buggy in a body' project going like I wanted, so I decided to shelve it and wait a year or two.

I was really digging on the idea of a mid size cab-truck type thing after UA this year so I decided to hunt around for some parts. I got all the used toyota parts for a really good deal so I decided to give one a shot. It's just something different to keep my fab skills improving, learn some new skills, and probably give myself an excuse to buy a few new tools....

The proportions of the 'pinched' FJ45-esk body are also really interesting to me. A 55" wide body should be a good size. Narrower than a CJ6/7YJ/TJ by about 4", but I can still use a factory windshield, cowl, hood, etc. It's not going to be super easy to make the body like I want, but it should be a neat experiment.

After the last UA rain fest I really want to try and make a vehicle with a much more weatherproof cockpit but still retain the modularity of a Jeep/FJ type body. My ultimate goal is to be able to go from a full enclosed hard top to a much more open air cabin with great visibility without having to leave anything behind. I like having a 'top' and windshield but being able to have a half-door type window opening and no rear panels/glass could be sweet. I am still working on designing a few things but have a plan forming....
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:25 AM   #87 (permalink)
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The toyota stuff isn't tons, but I just didn't want to put that much money into this build. This build is basically going to be a time filler to let technology/industry catch up with what I need for support with this....
That's what i was getting at, once you start digging into the toyota stuff, you will realize just how close to tons they really are, there's a reason why cheap asses drive toyotas!! The proposed project pictured looks too "cookie cutter" for you, keep building the cool stuff!!
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:11 AM   #88 (permalink)
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That's what i was getting at, once you start digging into the toyota stuff, you will realize just how close to tons they really are, there's a reason why cheap asses drive toyotas!! The proposed project pictured looks too "cookie cutter" for you, keep building the cool stuff!!
That buggy is not as normal as it looks

I like toyota stuff, I have helped design/build a few over the years. The J80 chassis looks like a really nice platform to build off of. It isn't perfect, but everything OEM is going to have compromise built in just like you see in any project. So far I am impressed with the chassis...beefy frame, neat suspension design, compact steering box placement, etc.

What I never liked about toyota's where the bodies...or rather the design of the bodies. The FJ40 stuff was a little too wide, bulky, and heavy. I never really liked the seating position on the mini-truck/'runner stuff and they just have too much body for me. I'm trying to blend a few different things together and solve some of those issues.

I'll keep tinkering
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:42 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Don't forget the fact they rust like crazy! My 2002 tacoma has more rust problems and holes than my 1944 MB.
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Old 09-07-2015, 01:02 PM   #90 (permalink)
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There was a local Maryland guy, Blackhat Fab(?) that built a 30's style pickup on a similar chassis. I always liked the idea.

Any progress?
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:07 AM   #91 (permalink)
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There was a local Maryland guy, Blackhat Fab(?) that built a 30's style pickup on a similar chassis. I always liked the idea.

Any progress?
No progress yet. I have a few trips coming up and the clown car needed some love....

This is going to be my slow boring winter project.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:40 AM   #92 (permalink)
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What's up with the steering box location?
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:08 AM   #93 (permalink)
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What's up with the steering box location?
Packaging issues.

I wanted a real steering box with minimal front overhang. I had to get a little unconventional to package that with all the other stuff I wanted....frame width, steering angles, shock position, etc.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:23 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Interesting. How are you getting the steering input to it? How does this make packaging better then it being on the driver side? Are you sourcing a box from a RH drive Jeep?

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Old 09-08-2015, 10:37 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Interesting. How are you getting the steering input to it? How does this make packaging better then it being on the driver side? Are you sourcing a box from a RH drive Jeep?
There is a double u-joint at the drivers lower corner of the radiator. All the angles worked out just fine. The steering shaft passes under the winch mount. I had to add a few support bearings because of the multiple steering shafts. I was able to snake everything around a normal 26" wide radiator.

The front axle in this chassis is about 6" ahead of 'stock'. I didn't want the frame to stick out past the grill very far. I wanted to maintain a good approach angle. If the steering box was placed conventionally ( inside the frame, pointing forward ) the frame would have had to be about 4" longer. By rotating the box 90 degrees I was able to have the sector shaft be at the front of the box minimizing the overhang needed for the steering box past the grill.

I tried just about every steering box configuration imaginable....inside the frame, outside the frame, forward facing pitman arm, rearward facing pitman arm, etc, etc. This was the cleanest solution I could come up with. I only had to add one steering shaft joint and everything else was basically 'conventional'. The front axle on this chassis has a decent amount of uptravel and the top of the pumkin passes the raised frame rail. That didn't leave a lot of room for a steering box behind, or on top, of the axle centerline.

Yes. The box is a RHD saginaw 'jeep' box. You can get them at just about any parts house from the 'postal jeep' application of the TJ. They can be ported for hydro assist just like any other version.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:56 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Ah rotated 90. That makes more sense now on the steering shaft. Very interesting idea. On my rig I had the same problem. The bumper stuck way out to make room for the steering box. After two trips I cut it off and went full hydro because I couldn't figure out another way to get 3 link numbers I liked with the steering box and good approach angle. I heavily considered mounting the box at the firewall and using a push pull with and an idler arm under the radiator, food for thought.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:04 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Ah rotated 90. That makes more sense now on the steering shaft. Very interesting idea. On my rig I had the same problem. The bumper stuck way out to make room for the steering box. After two trips I cut it off and went full hydro because I couldn't figure out another way to get 3 link numbers I liked with the steering box and good approach angle. I heavily considered mounting the box at the firewall and using a push pull with and an idler arm under the radiator, food for thought.
yeah. I looked at doing a swing set steering system. This worked out better overall....less moving and wear parts.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:51 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I found this pic on facebook......



Good inspiration!
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:37 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I found this pic on facebook......







Good inspiration!


This type seems very popular right now.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:56 AM   #100 (permalink)
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I worked out of a media blasting place for years. To properly eliminate everything is a 2 blast process if there is any filler in the body. The first takes everything down to bare metal and gets any filler out, shoot it with a cheap primer to keep it decent while you work on rebuilding the tub. Bare metal will rust overnight from the moisture in handprints. Once all of your work is done, take it back in and have it shot down to bare metal again. This will remove all impurities and give a perfect surface for any filler to be applied and properly adhere without impurities behind it. Shoot it with a high build primer sealer and pick your paint from there.

DO NOT SPRAY WITH WD40! You'd never get proper paint adhesion with those oils soaked in.

If there is no filler in the body as it sits, cut up your tub, get it the way you want it then go blast it.
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