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Old 02-19-2017, 02:26 PM   #1051 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kris97ranger View Post
our 2011 f150 has the cap-less filler neck so far no issues with it in 200'000km but it also doesnt get swamped etc... id be concerned with it on something that has the chance of the filler neck going under water
I hope the upper corner of the bed doesn't go under water, but it would be open to the rain and snow generally.

Right now I am leaning toward just using a nice o-ring sealing motorcycle tank style cap. The bung should be easy to weld in on the surface of the bed rail. The cap is a nice aluminum machined unit that is about 1.75" dia and 1/4" tall with a slight dome. I dont' think that will look obtrusive. After looking at it for a few weeks it will probably visually go away for the most part.

I guess the next part of the question is. Should I make the filler corner out of stainless steel tubing along with the fittings I will need toward the bottom to change directions into the tank?
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Old 02-19-2017, 02:47 PM   #1052 (permalink)
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This is what I am thinking for the cap.



I would basically flush the filler neck into the bed rail inside the drivers rear corner post. Only the cap would be sticking up above the bed rail in that corner.

I'd like to come up with a way to add a little chain to the cap from the inside to keep from losing the cap. The filler neck should be high enough that fuel slosh shouldn't really be an issue, but I will probably throw a few spare o-rings into the parts bag.

That corner tube may or may not have to be stainless?
I don't think the bed rail is going to be stainless however.

I think I will have to cut and splice in a 90 degree tube fitting elbow in the lower 1/3rd of that post. Then trim and fit the lower section to continue the tube down to the frame connection point.

For the frame connection I am leaning toward just setting each of the four 2x2x1/8 box tube uprights onto a short 2" section of 1.75 square bar stock that was welded to the frame. That bottom of that bar stock would be heavily chamfered so the weld to the frame could be flush to the outside edge. This would allow the 2x2 tube to slide all the way down and touch the frame. Drill and tap the solid stock on one ( or more ) of the sides to allow a bolt to pin the upright to the block. That should be plenty strong enough to hold the bed assembly to the frame. It would be easy to pull the 4 bolts and lift the bed off also ( after disconnecting the fuel filler and a wiring harness plug for the lights ).

That is the best plan I have right now....
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Old 02-19-2017, 04:00 PM   #1053 (permalink)
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2 more random and possibly useless thoughts
1- wont that filler be to small and bubble back when using a gas pump due to air not getting out? or would you have a vent somewhere?
2- What about a threaded bung in the bed then turn down a piece that had one end barbed for fuel hose and then threaded to screw into the bung then the cap, gets rid of to many weld fitments that have to hold fuel but would require machining a custom part.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:26 PM   #1054 (permalink)
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2 more random and possibly useless thoughts
1- wont that filler be to small and bubble back when using a gas pump due to air not getting out? or would you have a vent somewhere?
2- What about a threaded bung in the bed then turn down a piece that had one end barbed for fuel hose and then threaded to screw into the bung then the cap, gets rid of to many weld fitments that have to hold fuel but would require machining a custom part.
1-It could, adding a vent is a possibility. I could stick the vent to the other bed post. The transition from the 2x2 box into a round tube fitting is going to be the tricky bit. The radius of the 90 tube fitting is going to likely dictate how fast the fuel can be filled. The longer the radius the better, but I don't know what kind of space really....

2- But where do you stick the hose that connects to the tank? That is the tricky part.

I could slice the 2x2 corner post tube in half and lay a round stainless tube inside it. Connect that to the bung at the top. Have the 90 bend towards the bottom. Then trim the 2x2 box parts to fit around the tube and weld it all back together. Basically build the filler neck inside the box tube.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:45 PM   #1055 (permalink)
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Time for sketches....



This idea is winning so far.

Cut a slot out of the inside of the 2x2 tubing. Fabricate the filler neck out of tubing small enough to fit inside. Drop that into the 2x2. Fabricate a patch panel to cover up the rest of the slot.

I think the filler tube could be 1.5-1.25" tubing easy enough. I need to see what I can find for a pretty tight 90 degree bend for the top. The top could just be a miter since the nozzle will likely be down that far in the neck when filling.

Now I just need to sneak in a little section of small hard tubing for the vent and connect it towards the top right for the fill vent?
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:11 PM   #1056 (permalink)
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Found a nice tight radius 1.5" tube bend....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-13032/overview/

1.5 mandrel bend with a 1.5 CLR, 90 degree bend, 12" and 4" legs. 16 gauge stainless.

I will probably need a little bit of extra straight tubing, but overall this should be pretty easy.

I need to draw some things up in scale an see what kind of room I have to sneak in a vent line.
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:46 PM   #1057 (permalink)
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I picture the soft hose where your solid hose is drawn, fished up through a hole by the tank to the threaded and barbed filler at the top, when you take the bed off it is undone at the tank but could be pulled out of the upright by removing the filler, not sure my threaded filler idea is good but maby some sort of mounting plate thats removeable with the filler attached to it.
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:54 PM   #1058 (permalink)
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Meiser. I think you've got a good plan. I wonder if you even need a vent with such a large fill pipe and minimal bends. I'd need to ask around .

With the 2x2 post cut out, would you even need to back fill it with a plate? Couldn't you leave it open if it's covered with the bed sides?

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Old 02-19-2017, 07:22 PM   #1059 (permalink)
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Meiser. I think you've got a good plan. I wonder if you even need a vent with such a large fill pipe and minimal bends. I'd need to ask around .

With the 2x2 post cut out, would you even need to back fill it with a plate? Couldn't you leave it open if it's covered with the bed sides?

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I think the bed panel needs to attach to the section that was removed. I was planning on drilling/tapping that surface to mount the panel on that edge. I will have to watch the fastener length but it should be pretty easy.
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:26 PM   #1060 (permalink)
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Love the build!
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:27 PM   #1061 (permalink)
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Love the build!
Thanks for watching.
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:44 PM   #1062 (permalink)
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Time for sketches....



This idea is winning so far.

Cut a slot out of the inside of the 2x2 tubing. Fabricate the filler neck out of tubing small enough to fit inside. Drop that into the 2x2. Fabricate a patch panel to cover up the rest of the slot.

I think the filler tube could be 1.5-1.25" tubing easy enough. I need to see what I can find for a pretty tight 90 degree bend for the top. The top could just be a miter since the nozzle will likely be down that far in the neck when filling.

Now I just need to sneak in a little section of small hard tubing for the vent and connect it towards the top right for the fill vent?


I dig your hidden filler tube idea - very cool! I also really like your formed shape on the upper edge of the bed. Very clean! Two potential ideas:

On the fill pipe cap, I'm wondering if you could point it straight up in line with the internal fill tube, set its height lower than the bed rail, and make a cover over it at the top of the square tube upright. The top of the cover would have the same sloped profile as the bed top rail, and the sides would match the square tube upright on its sides. Make the sides of the cover extend down a little ways so that when you take it off (or flip it open on a hinge) the fuel filler cap is exposed so you can get a grip on it to twist it off. When the cover is closed you would only see a seam at its edges. Could be hinged at the top corner. If so, you can plop the filler cap in the inverted cover when filling the tank. Since it could be tight to fit a hinge, the cap could also slide into the upright with a detent to keep it from falling off...

On the stainless tube within the square tube- instead of a formed right angle bend, how about welding the angle so there's no radius? Seems like the bend radius of a formed bend would need a longer cut out at the inside of the square tube to make the turn. If you made a welded joint, it might be easier to fit and would need a smaller patch panel.

Sure am enjoying your build thread! Very cool ideas and fab!
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Old 02-20-2017, 12:00 PM   #1063 (permalink)
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Time for sketches....



This idea is winning so far.

Cut a slot out of the inside of the 2x2 tubing. Fabricate the filler neck out of tubing small enough to fit inside. Drop that into the 2x2. Fabricate a patch panel to cover up the rest of the slot.

I think the filler tube could be 1.5-1.25" tubing easy enough. I need to see what I can find for a pretty tight 90 degree bend for the top. The top could just be a miter since the nozzle will likely be down that far in the neck when filling.

Now I just need to sneak in a little section of small hard tubing for the vent and connect it towards the top right for the fill vent?
At this point, why not mount the filler in the lower tail gate rail where you currently have the lights? An early CJ filler (or similar) looks like it could work.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:59 PM   #1064 (permalink)
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At this point, why not mount the filler in the lower tail gate rail where you currently have the lights? An early CJ filler (or similar) looks like it could work.
The tank is basically all the way up to the seam you see for the tailgate ( above the lights), just under the level of the floor. I would never get the tank full with the filler lower than that seam.
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:05 PM   #1065 (permalink)
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I dig your hidden filler tube idea - very cool! I also really like your formed shape on the upper edge of the bed. Very clean! Two potential ideas:

On the fill pipe cap, I'm wondering if you could point it straight up in line with the internal fill tube, set its height lower than the bed rail, and make a cover over it at the top of the square tube upright. The top of the cover would have the same sloped profile as the bed top rail, and the sides would match the square tube upright on its sides. Make the sides of the cover extend down a little ways so that when you take it off (or flip it open on a hinge) the fuel filler cap is exposed so you can get a grip on it to twist it off. When the cover is closed you would only see a seam at its edges. Could be hinged at the top corner. If so, you can plop the filler cap in the inverted cover when filling the tank. Since it could be tight to fit a hinge, the cap could also slide into the upright with a detent to keep it from falling off...

On the stainless tube within the square tube- instead of a formed right angle bend, how about welding the angle so there's no radius? Seems like the bend radius of a formed bend would need a longer cut out at the inside of the square tube to make the turn. If you made a welded joint, it might be easier to fit and would need a smaller patch panel.

Sure am enjoying your build thread! Very cool ideas and fab!
The filler cap looks like it is 1.75" od. The ID of the square tube is about 1.75" too. That doesn't leave any room for fingers. I don't think a nice low profile knurled aluminum cap with a little dome will look bad on the rail?

I think the formed radius bend will flow fuel better when filling the tank than a mitered bend. I found a really short radius mandrel bend that should work. I did a scale drawing of it all today, the bend only sticks out of the tube about 3/8" before it goes straight. I can hide all that under the bed floor I think....
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Old 02-20-2017, 07:00 PM   #1066 (permalink)
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Couldn't find any pictures, but used one of these when I built the fuel fill setup for my tacoma.
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:11 PM   #1067 (permalink)
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Just a wee bit...



Working on the rear bumper prep and getting ready for the frame cut. The bumper will be the same design as the front with the tapered/pocketed ends along with the JATE rings for recovery. I believe I will also add a mounting plate for a pintle hitch. If I don't do it now it will be really hard later.

I added a few updates to the computer model also....





The departure angle looks like it is going to be about 65 degrees with the fuel tank tucked above the tire centerline at ride height. The fuel tank looks like it will be about 26 gallons give or take.

Things will probably be pretty slow as parts trickle in for the next week or two.
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:12 AM   #1068 (permalink)
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The filler cap looks like it is 1.75" od. The ID of the square tube is about 1.75" too. That doesn't leave any room for fingers. I don't think a nice low profile knurled aluminum cap with a little dome will look bad on the rail?

I think the formed radius bend will flow fuel better when filling the tank than a mitered bend. I found a really short radius mandrel bend that should work. I did a scale drawing of it all today, the bend only sticks out of the tube about 3/8" before it goes straight. I can hide all that under the bed floor I think....
Yep, a formed radius will definitely flow better.

An exposed cap would work just great for sure. Simpler too. If you wanted to hide it though, I think a cover could work with fingers that slide into the corners of the square tube ID. Here's a scale sketch of the 1.75" sq tube ID, 1.75" cap OD, and some 1/4" rods to position the cover with a light friction fit into the corners of the sq. tube - viewed looking down on the cap.



Having a little fun playing around with your cool idea...
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Old 02-23-2017, 07:02 PM   #1069 (permalink)
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I like those days I get to make big visual changes.....



Today I got the rear bumper tacked into place and was able to remove the 'extra' 18" of frame I didn't need any longer. This made a MASSIVE visual difference to the feel of the vehicle as a whole. It also made the shop feel a few feet larger too!

There is 14" between the bumper and the next crossmember for the fuel tank. I believe I can get about a 25 gallon tank in that location before things start to get in the way. The departure angle should be about 65 degrees. My hope is that will let me make the most of the 112" wheelbase. I have a few things in Moab that are on my bucket list which I have been denied continuously in the 85" wheelbase on the flatty.

Now I need to make all the brace plates for the bumper to the frame along with the mounting flange for the rear of the fuel tank skidplate.

Some misc pictures...



I think the frame bob was a net loss on weight. I forgot to weigh the new rear bumper but I can get it off the computer tomorrow and it should be pretty close.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:11 PM   #1070 (permalink)
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The frame bob really does make a huge difference! Way cooler!
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:18 PM   #1071 (permalink)
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The frame bob really does make a huge difference! Way cooler!
Yeah!

Every time I go out to the shop I am still like.....where is the rest of my truck!

It was amazing the difference it made in the feel of the vehicle. Stuff like that is really hard to convey in the picture, especially one that is close up.
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:07 PM   #1072 (permalink)
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for the filler neck/cap, what about turning one on the lathe? make it whatever diameter you want


Love the length of the rear
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:24 PM   #1073 (permalink)
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It seems to me that I've seen those M/C gas fillers that flush mount and will pop up when pushed in. That way they are easier to open and close.

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Old 02-27-2017, 04:42 PM   #1074 (permalink)
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1 5/8" CHROME POP UP TOP GAS FUEL TANK CUSTOM VENTED CAP AND WELD IN BUNG KIT

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Old 02-27-2017, 05:52 PM   #1075 (permalink)
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I've got one of these on the front of my standup Jetski. This allows a flexible fill hose if you are still looking for any other ideas. (EDIT: Sorry for the giant size, that's the size Overton's had on their page I linked to!)


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