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Old 09-11-2015, 07:44 AM   #101 (permalink)
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I worked out of a media blasting place for years. To properly eliminate everything is a 2 blast process if there is any filler in the body. The first takes everything down to bare metal and gets any filler out, shoot it with a cheap primer to keep it decent while you work on rebuilding the tub. Bare metal will rust overnight from the moisture in handprints. Once all of your work is done, take it back in and have it shot down to bare metal again. This will remove all impurities and give a perfect surface for any filler to be applied and properly adhere without impurities behind it. Shoot it with a high build primer sealer and pick your paint from there.

DO NOT SPRAY WITH WD40! You'd never get proper paint adhesion with those oils soaked in.

If there is no filler in the body as it sits, cut up your tub, get it the way you want it then go blast it.
Good stuff. Thank you.

What would you recommend for media for each time?
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:06 AM   #102 (permalink)
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This type seems very popular right now.
Explain?
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Old 09-11-2015, 09:54 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Good stuff. Thank you.

What would you recommend for media for each time?
Brain fart. this space reserved for when I can remember
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:58 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Long time lurker first time poster. If your looking for something to spray over bare metal that you don't want to primer yet then I'd recommend phix
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:09 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Wasn't done yet. Phix by PPC. Comes in a spray bottle but you can brush it on also. Let it dry and it seals up your metal. You can weld on it with no problems. Good stuff. If you want to primer seal your tub up after media blasting then cover it up with a epoxy primer. As long as the metal is clean then epoxy will bite on. It sticks to just about anything.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:49 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Explain?

I'm just seeing lots of half cab jeep/pic ups builds and done and jeep releasing one. It's like when you don't see a car then buy one and start seeing them everywhere.
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Old 09-12-2015, 01:15 PM   #107 (permalink)
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With your wheelbase and extended cab, how long do you think your bed will be?
Any 70's mini truck beds out your way that you could cut down and add fenders to?
FJ45 pickups came in long and short beds from the factory, your posted picture still looks like that one has been bobbed.
Judging from the background and the truck itself, it looks to be from a southern continent on the other side of the Pacific.

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Old 09-12-2015, 02:13 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I thought he said he was going to make one similar to a Willys.
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Old 09-12-2015, 05:52 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Yea probably, maybe just do a Willys truck type bed with a Toyota mini truck tailgate.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:16 AM   #110 (permalink)
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With your wheelbase and extended cab, how long do you think your bed will be?
Any 70's mini truck beds out your way that you could cut down and add fenders to?
FJ45 pickups came in long and short beds from the factory, your posted picture still looks like that one has been bobbed.
Judging from the background and the truck itself, it looks to be from a southern continent on the other side of the Pacific.
The cab isn't going to be extended that much, maybe 3" over stock. I don't like the look of the longer cabs and I think with it narrowed that will only get worse.

The bed is going to be very similar to what Chris Durham has been doing. The bed is about as wide as the frame and as short as practical past the rear axle. On my J80 frame it is about 45" wide, I will probably go about 42-43" wide or so to give the tires a little more room to articulate before things start rubbing. The only real goal is to be able to lay a full size spare tire down in the bed. Anything more than that is just extra. The rear bumper will set the length of the frame/bed. That bumper will go just behind the rear tire when fully compressed and articulated. I want a really good departure angle so the bumper will likely get stacked on top of the frame rail with the end of the frame taper cut to match that departure angle. I would like to put a hitch on the bumper that doesn't take up much room. The fuel tank will also be behind the rear axle so I need to leave some room for that.

The frame is really wide. I think the fuel tank can be 41" wide between the rear rails. I am hoping to get about 25-30 gallons of capacity in total. I want to have some good range with this car.

The bed is just going to be 1/8" aluminum. I think I can bend most of the bed in one piece also. The fenders will be 1/8" aluminum and will bolt onto the bed. I want the bed to be as small as practical so it doesn't get in the way. I want the fenders to be replaceable if they get mangled.
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Old 09-14-2015, 06:23 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:50 PM   #112 (permalink)
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When I was in Australia there were a lot om mini-trucks, have you looked at some of them? It has been a while but there should still be some examples around. Besides the Japanese models I think that even Ford had one, but like I said it has been a while.

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Old 09-14-2015, 07:54 PM   #113 (permalink)
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When I was in Australia there were a lot om mini-trucks, have you looked at some of them? It has been a while but there should still be some examples around. Besides the Japanese models I think that even Ford had one, but like I said it has been a while.

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The cab over style mini-trucks?

I have seen them. Why?

The more I look at FJ80s driving around town, the more I think this is going to be a pretty neat size for an old FJ40 looking pickup cab-truck thing.

I wish stuff would stop breaking around the house so I could start working on this project....
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:19 PM   #114 (permalink)
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The proportions should look good. You might have to find another color other than grey or green though!
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:25 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Just thought you my get some ideas for the bed.

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Old 09-14-2015, 08:27 PM   #116 (permalink)
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The proportions should look good. You might have to find another color other than grey or green though!
I'd got something in mind.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:43 PM   #117 (permalink)
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I'm sure you do!
Just looked at Chris Durhams little pickup, those proportions look pretty good, but I don't think he could quite fit a tire in his bed lying down.
Little side boards for piling stuff in for longer trips with a small tarp cover tied down would work for you since your such a minimalist.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:26 AM   #118 (permalink)
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I'm sure you do!
Just looked at Chris Durhams little pickup, those proportions look pretty good, but I don't think he could quite fit a tire in his bed lying down.
Little side boards for piling stuff in for longer trips with a small tarp cover tied down would work for you since your such a minimalist.
Which one?

His Willys truck has the spare tire in the bed...



The overall concept on mine is going to be similar, but the body is going to be smaller. I am only going to have a 63" wide axle where Chris typically runs full width stuff that is 67-69" wide. I am going to try and run about 3.75" backspacing vs 4.5ish to help make up a little of the difference.

I think his Willys truck has really nice proportions. A TJ tub is typically about 59" wide. I am going to build my FJ45-esk cab to be about 55" wide with just a little rocker guard overhang to help keep rocks out of the doors. The stock FJ40/45 tubs are naturally about 63" wide at the back of the doors. Personally I think this is just too wide for what I want to do. That is why I am going to pinch the doors in so they are parallel to each other instead of splayed. I am going to be doing everything I can to make the tub 'feel' wider....thin doors, cage integrated/hidden in the tub, etc.

For longer trips I will run them just like I do the Willys so far. Take a spare TIRE. Pack gear inside and around the tire. One thing I want to do 'better' on this car is have more visibility when loaded for big trips. Having to look around the spare tire kinda sucks on the Willys. On this one I want to be able to pull the door tops/windows and rear panels out....store them somewhere out of the way...and have great open air visibility from the cabin on the trail.

I hope that all makes sense.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:15 PM   #119 (permalink)
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That was the one! From looking at the side you'd never guess that tire would lay flat in that bed. Are you going to be able to split the floor down the middle and do some pie cuts to narrow the tub and floor, or remove the floor completely, stretch the tub and build your own floor afterward? Full width axles are not too bad on a FJ40 but look too wide under a Jeep tub to me. Yours with narrower axles will be interesting to see. The mostly stock LC80 suspension will get you a lot of flex compared to Rango. I suspect you will notice it right off.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:38 PM   #120 (permalink)
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That was the one! From looking at the side you'd never guess that tire would lay flat in that bed. Are you going to be able to split the floor down the middle and do some pie cuts to narrow the tub and floor, or remove the floor completely, stretch the tub and build your own floor afterward? Full width axles are not too bad on a FJ40 but look too wide under a Jeep tub to me. Yours with narrower axles will be interesting to see. The mostly stock LC80 suspension will get you a lot of flex compared to Rango. I suspect you will notice it right off.
The stock FJ40 front floor has some issues. It has a lot of large ridges in the pressing including a sump for the fuel tank. I think a lot of that stuff will effect how low I can get the body on the frame. I am just going to remove the original floor and totally replace it.

That will give me a nice flat floor front to back with very few seams. I would like to use the factory bolt on tunnel if I can.

Flex....



Rango eats up a 10" shock front and back. I don't think it's lacking on flex. The stock shocks on a J80 are about a 10" travel unit also. I am going to try and leave the suspension on the J80 as stock as possible to start. The only real change I plan to make is a set of good quality shocks that will bolt into the stock mounts. I want to keep all the road manors of the stock suspension as I can. I suspect I will pick up about 1-2" of 'lift' with reduction in sprung weight with the new body. My hope is that I can run the 40" tire on the 'stock' suspension....

I think the proportions will work out pretty well without a lot of extra work. The wheelbase of the stock J80 at 112 was very close to my 110" goal without any extra work. Getting the stance right will be the key. It's going to have a lot in common with my flat fender
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:36 PM   #121 (permalink)
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I suspect with stock springs and the reduced weight of the replacement body your going to have plenty of height. Your springs will be close to being topped out I bet. So droop is not as prevalent. Your going to have over 2 ft longer wheelbase though 86"? vs 112" and I bet more frame flex than Rango. The car will feel different, your fanny will be higher off the ground, you will have more compression and less droop, be driving an automatic (more two footing) and the trick will be to get the F-up to feel close to the Jeep balance wise. If you can come close (which I believe is possible) it might be just like driving a little bigger clown car!
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:55 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I suspect with stock springs and the reduced weight of the replacement body your going to have plenty of height. Your springs will be close to being topped out I bet. So droop is not as prevalent. Your going to have over 2 ft longer wheelbase though 86"? vs 112" and I bet more frame flex than Rango. The car will feel different, your fanny will be higher off the ground, you will have more compression and less droop, be driving an automatic (more two footing) and the trick will be to get the F-up to feel close to the Jeep balance wise. If you can come close (which I believe is possible) it might be just like driving a little bigger clown car!
I think the Lexus got the softer springs from what I have been researching. I think the front end will be ok. With an iron block 5.3 up front and an 8274 on the bumper I think the front end will be ok as far as spring rate. The stock springs where a little soft....so a little less weight should firm them up slightly and give me a touch of lift. I am more worried about the rear suspension. The back end is going to be LIGHT compared to stock. I will only have a small aluminum bed basically. I guess having the fuel tank behind the rear axle should help a bit. I want to make that about 25-30 gallons so that should be about 200lbs. The factory tank was ahead of the rear axle. If the rake of the chassis is too much I will machine a small spacer for the front to level it out....and then adjust the shock length to match.

I would like to try and maintain about 50% uptravel from the suspension. If I make the shocks longer I will need to adjust the bumpstops down slightly. Most of that stuff is all pretty simple.

I am going to try and set the engine/trasmission/t-case so they clear the front suspension with it at full bump with factory bumpstops. That should be a good place to start.....

The wheelbase will be an adjustment. 112 vs 85. That is a 27" difference! That will be an adjustment for sure, but a good size I think. I think that is about right with a 40-42" tire.....108-112 of so. This chassis was a little longer than I wanted still, but for an oem wheelbase it's pretty good. There where not too many vehicles with a nice boxed frame, link suspension, decent axles, lockers, 4 wheel disc, etc. I came very close to using a JKU frame, but I think its just a little long.

I don't think the J80 frame is going to flex at all, especially with the body being a lot lighter. Most of the frame is 2+" wide by about 6" tall and a full box section front to back.

Automatic will be fine. I had a auto TJ back in the day that I loved. I don't mind left foot braking. I am very interested to see how the 6l80 transmission works out. The gearing on paper looks to be phenomenal. 54:1 in low range with a top speed of 65mph or more! That should eliminate the high range to low range to high range shuffle on the trail. I like being able to run between obstacles a little faster. I think that type of gearing should be very interesting in the snow and sand too. Heck, in HIGH range the gearing is still 20:1!

Seating position will be a little different. I am going to try and lower the seats from the stock FJ40 position a little. The seats won't be on the floor like Rango, but only a few inches up I hope. I have to try for a little bit less cramped seating position than Rango. My knees aren't what they use to be.

Overall, I would be very happy if I could make this vehicle feel as stable and predictable as Rango. I think it will be close. It is going to be about 78-79" wide to the outside of the tire. Hopefully about 18-20" of smooth belly clearance. 112" wheelbase. The approach and departure angles should be very close to 90 degrees. A smaller body with a front and rear taper. There also won't be a top to get in the way on the back corners. Should be pretty neat really.....

Blah blah blah....
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Old 09-17-2015, 11:31 PM   #123 (permalink)
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The landcruiser frame is very robust. One of the sturdiest I have ever seen. It isn't going to flex appreciably.
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:37 AM   #124 (permalink)
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I was doing a little measuring this morning....

It looks like the body is about 27" tall from the floor to the top of the cowl ( the peak of the hood )

The frame is 6" tall in the belly section.

An LS engine with a truck pan and intake is about 32" tall.

27+6 is 33" of vertical space available for a 32" tall engine to the bottom of the frame.

That is good news. At least I can get close to a flat belly most likely. The hood slopes down from the cowl a little. I need a little space for clearance. The floor isn't going to be directly on the top of the frame...that will add 1/2-1" pretty easy.

Good news. I was a little worried about that with the truck engine. With the deep pan the engine/transmission is going to be up into the chassis pretty dang far....
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:37 AM   #125 (permalink)
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If it gets close there are shorter pans available. My pan on my new Suburban holds 8 quarts, but does not look deeper than my 2000 that holds 6.
I made the frame comment as a comparison to the Jeeps homemade frame that I believe is stiffer than any production frame on a light duty vehicle. Even though the frame on the Cruiser is stout, it also relies on the body for stiffness a little too. You won't have that anymore, It won't be detrimental, but it ain't no Rango frame.
You will love the 6L80, the 4.00 first gear, under driven high range and gears will be pretty nice I think.
The hood is a bit longer than the Jeeps so the slope will help with forward visibility. Since you are going to have a near 90 degree approach and departure angles are you going to triangulate your line of sight to the ground or the middle of the axle at the hub? If you have nothing past the front of the tires, I would use the hub. It's kind of crude but I've used a 5 gallon bucket to adjust seat position to were I can just see the top of the bucket.
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