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Old 12-24-2017, 08:14 AM   #1476 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chainsawron View Post
Plate plan sounds solid. I was going to suggest french in it in the gate.

Sounds like you've thought out the intake thing already too! (Not suprising to me)
The only other thought i have on the subject (currently) is that location (behind front fender?) is likely a low pressure area. So it might not be the optimal spot to draw air in.....

Keep up the good work!
This is where the intake would be.



The fenders are pretty petite. I don't think I need to worry about air pressure THAT much. Any air that isn't hot air from in the engine compartment should be a good thing. I am mainly worried about sucking hot air when crawling on the trail and how it stresses the cooling system.

I could make some kind of scoop or duct setup, but I don't want to make it look too busy.
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:30 AM   #1477 (permalink)
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Sorry.... race car thinking kicked in for a sec last night.
I went back and found a pic that showed where that opening was earlier in your build. I like the idea of ducting from there to an air box and then to the intake. Which could help keep the intake heat down. (Especially if wrapped.) You could cover the opening with a framed mesh screen that bolted on via the stock holes, and then have a snorkel adapter that could be swapped in if you encounter any UA style fordings with this rig.

I don't think there's any practical & esthetically pleasing way to put a "ram air" duct on there. But imho that area would most likely be most suitable for a vent to let heat out of the engine compartment. It's an idea I've entertained using on my Willys build, to help mitigate the potential under hood heat issues from phone booth aerodynamics
I beleive the theory is that the fender creates a high pressure area in front of it, and a corresponding low pressure area behind it. Not that the V8 won't be more than able to overcome it, but that it's not "optimal".
Of course the "optimal" intake location would probably be the center-front hood opening that is already spoken for
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:50 AM   #1478 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chainsawron View Post
Sorry.... race car thinking kicked in for a sec last night.
I went back and found a pic that showed where that opening was earlier in your build. I like the idea of ducting from there to an air box and then to the intake. Which could help keep the intake heat down. (Especially if wrapped.) You could cover the opening with a framed mesh screen that bolted on via the stock holes, and then have a snorkel adapter that could be swapped in if you encounter any UA style fordings with this rig.

I don't think there's any practical & esthetically pleasing way to put a "ram air" duct on there. But imho that area would most likely be most suitable for a vent to let heat out of the engine compartment. It's an idea I've entertained using on my Willys build, to help mitigate the potential under hood heat issues from phone booth aerodynamics
I beleive the theory is that the fender creates a high pressure area in front of it, and a corresponding low pressure area behind it. Not that the V8 won't be more than able to overcome it, but that it's not "optimal".
Of course the "optimal" intake location would probably be the center-front hood opening that is already spoken for
Yup, same thoughts I was having. I think I will make a nice stainless mesh insert to keep the chunks out. Then have some kind of adapter that would let me adapt a snorkel tube. Use the snorkel tube to store the spare axle shafts or something when not being used.

I can monitor intake air temp I think with the LS via the OBD2

I can't see this air intake location hurting anything.....
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:57 AM   #1479 (permalink)
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The area between the hood hinges has been used for years. A vent when going slow and an intake when going fast. The windshield creates pressure for intake (nascar). Common on V8 Flattys was cutting about 1" from the back of the hood. One of the unwritten rules for flattys in the 50's-80's was no scoops or holes in the hood. I think that was to level the field without superchargers. No one said the hood "had to fit."...And to fit the fenders... Then Toyota stole that idea and you never saw it again on a FF. (Actually there is a space between the body and hood that is not recognized as a vent.

The Toyota louvers can also be opened up for more venting. Most wouldn't notice. One of the good looking features on that hood....that I can't use....

Last edited by ISDTBower; 12-24-2017 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 12-24-2017, 05:10 PM   #1480 (permalink)
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Killed the afternoon making this....





Now I have a place to stick the battery. Formed from one piece, lots of dimples, tig welding, and welds to three existing surfaces in the chassis. The weight is nice and low, but still forward of the rear axle. I built the tray a little larger than I needed so it could fit any group 34 battery, not just the Optima.

I need to find a little scrap of aluminum bar stock to make a hold down out of....
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:58 PM   #1481 (permalink)
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The area between the hood hinges has been used for years. A vent when going slow and an intake when going fast. The windshield creates pressure for intake (nascar). Common on V8 Flattys was cutting about 1" from the back of the hood. One of the unwritten rules for flattys in the 50's-80's was no scoops or holes in the hood. I think that was to level the field without superchargers. No one said the hood "had to fit."...And to fit the fenders... Then Toyota stole that idea and you never saw it again on a FF. (Actually there is a space between the body and hood that is not recognized as a vent.

The Toyota louvers can also be opened up for more venting. Most wouldn't notice. One of the good looking features on that hood....that I can't use....
The base of the windsheild should be a decent high pressure area for proper cowl induction . And when speaking carburetor or TBI, it would definitely be a good place for air intake. With the Chevy motor that Mieser is using, it would be a fair bit of bends and plumbing to get the air back to the throttle body.

IIRC: there was someone (not sure if video or write-up) that found that the older school backwards facing large cowl (to cover tunnel ram intakes, etc) could, if not taken far enough back towards the window, end up being in a "low pressure area" and actually caused reversion(?) in the carb at higher speeds.
This is the same effect I feel might be created behind the fender.

But all of that is a long ways back in the memory banks, and I'm not sure of the integrity of the data


Like the battery box! Good use of otherwise wasted space!
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Last edited by chainsawron; 12-24-2017 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Forgot battery box
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Old 12-24-2017, 09:05 PM   #1482 (permalink)
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If we are talking aero, then Meiser should have radius-ed the top of the fender so that it dumped the air down into the "air box" he is proposing on the side. Radius makes air go over the top of a wing. Coanda effect.......

Carry on Meiser...... Disregard us.
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Old 12-26-2017, 10:05 AM   #1483 (permalink)
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Carry on Meiser...... Disregard us.

Exactly
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:11 PM   #1484 (permalink)
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On Board Air brackets....



This is my On Board Air system for the LX45. It is based on a 12V Puma Compressor and has a small aluminum tank I scavenged from the dumpster at work. This area is wasted space under the bed drawer area. I think trying to mount all this stuff in the engine compartment would have made things really crowded.



This started as a chip board template where I laid out the design for the bracket. I try and do this for all the brackets I make. The template is then transfer to some fresh sheetmetal. I really try not to make everything out of material that is needlessly thick. That adds up over the coarse of the build to pounds and mounts of extra weight.



After much drilling, dimpling, and bending you end up with this. I decided it was a great idea to use every size of dimple die I have on this one part. Super smart use of time....



This is my super high tech flange bending machine. These 1/2" flanges are really nice to stiffing up the edge of panels and changing the weld orientation.



All the mounting holes got weld nuts TIG'd in place. I really like these things. They are affordable and have a lot of thread engagement.



Tack welded in place on the chassis.



These are the little mounts I made for the tank mount. They are just formed 16 gauge steel and are welded to the frame. They trap a hose clamp which holds the tank into place.

Cheers.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:13 PM   #1485 (permalink)
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Looks good. How easy will it be to clean out?


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Old 12-26-2017, 04:16 PM   #1486 (permalink)
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Looks good. How easy will it be to clean out?


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Lots of big holes in the bottom. Stuff should shake or wash out.
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Old 12-26-2017, 05:05 PM   #1487 (permalink)
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Ok wasn’t sure. You live in a land where it snows and rainstorm . Mostly sand out here but I know some of the mud we get could clog that up and not flush out without a spray. Being centered maybe not a problem


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Old 12-26-2017, 05:27 PM   #1488 (permalink)
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Ok wasn’t sure. You live in a land where it snows and rainstorm . Mostly sand out here but I know some of the mud we get could clog that up and not flush out without a spray. Being centered maybe not a problem


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I don't seem to have too many problems with mud around me. There are 4 big holes in the bottom if I did manage to get something way up in there. The dimples face down also.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:47 AM   #1489 (permalink)
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I guess it's time to tackle the doors on this thing.

In broad strokes, I will be making a set of aluminum 2pc doors that have a sliding upper window similar to a series Land Rover. The upper part of the door will store in the false floor of the bed when not being used. I also need a latch system and a mirror.....
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:12 PM   #1490 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see the doors I love that you thought ahead to incorporate the door storage in the back. Nice work.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:37 PM   #1491 (permalink)
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Doors.....



After playing around with the chipboard for a bit I ended up here....



The chipboard is really good template material up to a point, but it becomes kinda 'floppy' in big panels. I decided to up my template game and use some thin plywood for the doors. I found this stuff at home depot for a few bucks. It is very close in thickness to the 3/16" aluminum plate I plan on using for the doors. It is MUCH stiffer and is pretty flat.

I also decided to make the entire door in one piece for the template. I think this is the way I will fabricate the door eventually also. Make the entire door and then eventually cut it at the seam between the upper and lower. This should make the parts match up very well even if the cut isn't perfect.



The complete door was very interesting to play with. I also started laying out the window....

It feels odd to sit in the vehicle now with the door. It doesn't feel as small as I thought it would with the 56" wide tub. I do like the new door height with the raised body line. It feels really good. The stock body line would have felt very low. Keeping the door thin will help interior space. I am going to go pretty basic on the door. I ordered some Jeep TJ mirrors to use along with a locking paddle latch. I think I will be building the door hinges from scratch so I can have FJ40 on the body side but the TJ bolt pattern on the door to make the mirror work. I should also make them lift off, but then I have to make them a mirror left to right. Fun.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:46 PM   #1492 (permalink)
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Man I love this build and the updates! Great work!
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:22 AM   #1493 (permalink)
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Any plans of having mirrors with doors removed?
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:22 AM   #1494 (permalink)
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Anyone out there know anything about sliding windows and how they are made?
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Old 12-29-2017, 12:46 PM   #1495 (permalink)
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After MUCH morning google-fu this is where I ended up....







This is a window system by CR Laurence that basically does what I want. It basically just snaps into a hole. The cost doesn't seem too bad. It should work on all 4 windows that I will need ( fronts and split rears) with common parts.

The unanswered questions so far....

-Where to get glass cut/made? Tempered?....or just use lexan?
-I need some kind of latch for the inside. I haven't been able to find that yet
-The gasket is only rated for use up to a 0.140 thick flange. That throws a bit of a wrench in my plans for the construction of the door.
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Old 12-29-2017, 01:03 PM   #1496 (permalink)
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Any glass shop should be able to order glass cut, polished, and Tempered to your pattern.

Lots of antique auto restorers just use laminate glass (which does not requite tempering) and can be factory tinted much like the old safety glass be for tempered was required.
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:49 PM   #1497 (permalink)
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Finally found a decent video on how RV/Boat windows are made and installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MuVSRpjGCA
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:08 AM   #1498 (permalink)
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Finally found a decent video on how RV/Boat windows are made and installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MuVSRpjGCA
That was an interesting bit of video.

It might be debatable whether one would find screens useful in a LX45 or Willys, but it might keep the wasps out at speed

What about something more like the rear sliding windows in a pickup truck? IIRC they're essentially a W shaped channel with some hardware similar to your heavy equipment post, but with a metal frame designed to be mounted in a fairly thin sheet metal hole with a rubber gasket. Depending on how weather tight you want it, you might just to be able to mount lexan in a similar custom frame (if you can find the "W shaped channel"...
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Last edited by chainsawron; 12-30-2017 at 08:15 AM. Reason: added thought
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:32 AM   #1499 (permalink)
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That was an interesting bit of video.

It might be debatable whether one would find screens useful in a LX45 or Willys, but it might keep the wasps out at speed

What about something more like the rear sliding windows in a pickup truck? IIRC they're essentially a W shaped channel with some hardware similar to your heavy equipment post, but with a metal frame designed to be mounted in a fairly thin sheet metal hole with a rubber gasket. Depending on how weather tight you want it, you might just to be able to mount lexan in a similar custom frame (if you can find the "W shaped channel"...
They make different frame styles smart ass

This is the one I am looking at. It is similar to a rear slider, but clamps in instead of bolts in.

https://www.motionwindows.com/econom...ows-trim-ring/

This is the thinnest frame with the tightest corner radius.

I'm waiting to hear back from them ( holidays ) on the 5-sided shape I have laid out. I am not sure if that is possible/practical, but it looks the best I think.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:57 AM   #1500 (permalink)
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It might be debatable whether one would find screens useful in a LX45 or Willys, but it might keep the wasps out at speed
Quote:
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They make different frame styles smart ass

.... having taken one of those hateful buggers in the ear at about 60 mph, I'm only half kidding....

Thats a good looking solution. (Already bookmaked it for future reference.)
I think anything hanging inboard at window height could get annoying fast. Is it safe to assume your door structure will be more than 3/4" wide?

Keep up the good work! You're giving me more ideas!!!
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