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Old 10-27-2016, 12:03 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Ready to reassemble the head and stupid me didn't realize that the valve guide bosses had to be machined in order to fit the top hat halve seals that came with my overhaul kit.

I didn't want to wait to ship one from Summit, so I made myself a cutter real quick.

Hell of an idea! Porting looks good too, interesting to see dyno #s if you get it on rollers
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:38 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Got the engine all back together. And made some billet freeze plugs while I was at it.



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Old 11-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Lasered out a solid center section to TIG to the stock flexplate.

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Old 11-10-2016, 09:52 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Truck is back together, drove it home tonight. It freakin feels GOOD! 10psi seems to build a good 200rpms sooner and it climbs from there even faster than before. My original stock lift pump must have definitely been worn out. I put in a genuine Cummins replacement with a comp came spring, I didn't change any of my AFC settings and I'm putting out a decent amount more smoke. Gonna need to tune it back.

I do have quite a bit of blowby. Even more than before. But I guess that could be expected until the rings seat?

I got a pretty bad oil leak from the bottom of my stock tappet cover after my first pull. I had let the truck run and idle and get up to temp before hooking everything up to make sure there were no leaks... so I don't know if the oil just hadn't been primed enough and hadn't started pooling around the lifters in order to leak out the side, or if the blowby pushed out the seal? I thought I was careful about making sure the seal was seated but maybe I missed it? I have capped off and welded the crank case vent in the tappet cover. I had the oil fill cap on and tight. I have a 1/2" copper line from 4th valve cover that runs down to the exhaust to form a Venturi type setup. Is it possible I just built up too much pressure and if pushed it out?

Other strange occurrence is my transmission was starting in 2nd from a stop since about half way home. Recent changes to the transmission include V8 governor weights and springs, upgraded Billet governor valve, raised line pressure, lowered Throttle cable stop. I think I might be 1-1/2 quarts low on fluid, but I don't think that would cause it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 07:17 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Mine had lots blowby and I'm convinced it pushed out my new seal...or MAYBE it was my install who knows. Kicked myself for not getting billet side cover... next time i have access tho
Maybe unhook venturi setup make sure its not pushing back from exhaust??
I'll also be putting on 4.5 cummins valve covers for better valve cover venting, less leaks
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:09 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Mine had lots blowby and I'm convinced it pushed out my new seal...or MAYBE it was my install who knows. Kicked myself for not getting billet side cover... next time i have access tho
Maybe unhook venturi setup make sure its not pushing back from exhaust??
I'll also be putting on 4.5 cummins valve covers for better valve cover venting, less leaks
I do really think that it just got pushed out. I'm going to leave the oil fill cap off for at least the first 1000 miles to make sure its broken in and the blowby comes down. This time I used some black RTV to glue the gasket to the tappet cover. So far so good and it seems like blowby is already coming down.

I unhooked it and watched, it seems to be working good; only time the exhaust pushes back is after I release the throttle real quick. I probably should add a check valve in there.

Hmm. Havent looked at the 4.5 valve covers. Wonder if I have room with my intercooler sitting right on top.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:15 AM   #182 (permalink)
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damn !!
awesome truck man
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:18 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Hmm. Havent looked at the 4.5 valve covers. Wonder if I have room with my intercooler sitting right on top.[/QUOTE]

Forgot about your intercooler setup... definitely no room there
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:09 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Well. Updates are kinda on hold. Fixed my oil leak. Just needed to pay more attention to seating that seal around the tappet cover I guess. When I have time I will machine a billet one.

Had it all back together. Checked all fluid. Everything was great. Cruising down the freeway at 65 and then I start hearing some clicking. 10 seconds later it felt like the trans locked up, bogged the engine, then broke free. I coasted to a stop and shut off the engine. Got out and all the transmission fluid started dumping out of the overdrive unit. My freakin overdrive cracked right in half! Not length wise, but radial.

My only idea so far is that it was from my air bags being a little too low. I have a leak in the back and it must have been bottoming out. My driveline is just barely too long when the suspension is fully compressed.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:11 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Im having bad freakin luck.

Got my transmission all back together Friday. Drove it Friday night and for like 20 minutes Saturday. Drove it 15 miles to work today. Decided to do a little pressure testing today after work (about 170 psi in overdrive locked) when I noticed oil on my rear window. FREAKIN OVERDRIVE BUSTED AGAIN! This time at the front flange instead of in the middle. I was doing about 70mph. Had air in the air bags though they were a little low. Is my transmission mount causing the issue? I know the t case hangs a ways back.... Should I build a second crossmember for the back of the t case?...
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:14 PM   #186 (permalink)
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Quick reminder of what the transmission mount looks like. Flanged rubber bushings (like leaf spring bushings but smaller) on each side.

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Old 11-21-2016, 09:33 PM   #187 (permalink)
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that sucks--what OD unit is it? I think I have one off my '99 that I'd part with if it would work for you.

The dodges certainly don't have mount for the t-case, so I'm not sure if it would help or not, but I don't see how it can hurt as longs as all the crossmember are using the same rubber bushing.
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:42 AM   #188 (permalink)
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Thank you for the offer but 94 and 95 use a 47rh, the overdrive unit is about 4" longer because it has a hydro-mechanical governor in it vs the electronic governors the 48re uses.

I'm trying to wrap my mind around where a majority of the torque is applied in the drivetrain that causes it to want to wrap... Is it at the bellhousing? Or at the back of the t case? I am using the stock motor mounts. Whats the chance of the motor wanting to wrap over and the more rigid transmission mount is stopping it, causing the transmission to break? The only reason I'm not 100% sure this is the issue is because the first time it broke in the middle of the overdrive unit (behind the trans mount); this time it broke at the front of the overdrive unit (in front of the trans mount).
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Old 11-22-2016, 09:52 AM   #189 (permalink)
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Willys Tow Rig

Driveshaft too long?

I suggest a call in to PATC and their Mopar tech guy. If this has ever happened before he will have seen it.

A little Google shows the 48re has OD case cracking issues. Some companies are selling beefier case while others sell TC mounts. Same issue applies to you?

http://adaptacase.com/tc48reac.html for the TC mount


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Old 11-22-2016, 11:00 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Yea, there a quite a few threads online that say driveline vibration is the main cause of these cases cracking.

AND.

I believe I have found my issue. When I chucked up the driveline in the lathe to shorten it 3/4", the thing started running out like crazy. It had almost 1/8" of side to side slop in the ujoint at the case and I somehow hadn't noticed it. What it looks like happened was someone changed this ujoint at some point and didn't clean out the snap ring groove and the snap ring was never actually locked in place. It was literally almost flush with the outside of the yoke and the cap had worked its way out a little. I'm going to buy 2 new u joints just to be safe, shorten the driveline 3/4", and put it all back together. Hopefully no more problems.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:48 AM   #191 (permalink)
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Transmission is back in a working great! Did a little testing and with the new ujoints and shortened/rebalanced driveline, no more vibration. Actually, I found out the other day when my brother thought he could out-run me in his STI that 120mph feels even smoother than 60mph before! lol

The bad news, on our way up to get a Christmas tree the head gasket let go at about 50-60psi of boost. Oil all down the passenger side. Sad to say that I had to break down and order a set of ARPs; I guess the good news is that I ordered them on Cyber Monday and was even able to use XDP's 10% off on them. So I got a new set or only 392 bucks!
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Old 11-30-2016, 12:28 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Some people are in such a hurry to get a Christmas tree! 50-60 psi

Just kidding, carry on!
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:03 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Ok.... SO. I believe I have found the problem! Freakin 2-5 all blown out between the cylinder and oil port.











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Old 12-01-2016, 07:04 PM   #194 (permalink)
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After seeing this I am definitely 99% sure that this head indeed isn't flat at all. So it's off to the machine shop tomorrow, curious to hear how far out it was.

What I am still confused about is how does a blown gasket on the drivers side lead to pushing oil out the passenger side? Anyone have any insight to this? Also confused on why the gasket is separating and bubbling up in areas that aren't clamped between the block and head. Was this just a bad gasket? I'm pretty confident that it was a genuine cummins gasket after watching a few comparison videos.

I'm pretty sure that at least one of these ports had to of been blown since the first drive. It was burning blue smoke quite a bit and I had ridiculous blow by. I was just telling myself that it was only because this engine didn't even have 100 miles on it and the rings needed time to seat, plus I have read that some blue smoke can be attributed to cold diesel and it has been in the high 20s, low 30s. Apparently I was wrong...
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:54 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Drove the truck home today in about 6" of snow. No heater. No windshield wipers. It actually worked out well that I didn't have either. Lol kept the snow from melting and sticking to the windshield. Instead it just blew off. I did 55mph comfortably on the country road most of the way home. I am very happy with how it handled!

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Old 12-08-2016, 10:52 PM   #196 (permalink)
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FST

Sorry to hear about your head gasket

Saw an intersting side by side of the Cummins and felpro gaskets. Felpro has beaded silicone on the corners where Cummins doesn't other than that they are almost identical. Others seem to have good luck with the victor reinz.

Something else for your parts list.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9910

https://youtu.be/FjBaWo0QMYU

Really dig your trans crossmember. For added rigidity might consider an upper plate that joins the two pieces to the frame that has a wing shaped taper on both ends.
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:14 PM   #197 (permalink)
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The ARPs came with a tube of Ultra-Torque. I torqued the studs to 135. I could really tell a difference between these and the stock style bolts. After getting to 115 and then increasing torque in 5ft/lb increments; the bolts would rotate over 1/4 turn from the stretching! The ARP studs would only rotate like 1/16 turn from the 5ft/lb increment. Did one warm up cycle Tuesday night. And 3 warm up cycles through your the day Wednesday. When I retorqued Wednesday night I was surprised to see most of the studs going an extra 1/16 to 1/8 turn. I even had 3 studs move about 1/4 turn. Doing a Retorque is important!
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:14 PM   #198 (permalink)
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Alright guys. I need your opinions. Who votes to mount the Evap on the firewall or slightly recessed into it to then allow this blower to be stuffed in there. Or should I settle with a pusher fan that would be used for like a trans cooler? I will be building a sealed box around this, then the heater core will mount parallel to the evap right inside the firewall. A box will then be sealed around that with 2 vent ducts going to drivers and passenger floor, and 2 vent ducts going to the windshield.



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Old 12-09-2016, 02:14 PM   #199 (permalink)
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This is kinda what I'm thinking.



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Old 12-09-2016, 03:13 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Sink it through the firewall into the cab/behind the dash as far as you can. It will make routing the duct work easier and free up some underhood space around the turbo and inner fender.

Get a new wastegate for your turbo and your headgaskets might last longer
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