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View Poll Results: Lockers, what do you have?
Detroit 25 47.17%
ARB 17 32.08%
Other 21 39.62%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-28-2016, 12:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lockers, what do you have?

Just a poll of what lockers you have in your rig. Detroit? ARB? Other? Type of use (racing/parades, etc.), your opinion on different lockers, likes and dislikes.

Mine: ‘44 GPW linked, trail rig/rock crawler, Detroit’s front, rear.
‘56 Willy’s CJ, leafs, mall crawler, open/open.

My thoughts: I like Detroit’s. To quote Rochead, “Put ‘em in and forget about ‘em”. Down side, they do push in a turn when engaged, when not engaged, they act like an open dif. On a hard rock surface they will lock up the drive train on a tight turn. Backing up one foot will unlock them to an open dif, and lastly they will make a clunking noise occasionally.

ARB’s are probably better, but are another maintenance item, little problems that starts showing up after a couple of years, and more junk to stash in an already tight package. What I see is air lines being torn out of the dif on snow runs. Comparing ARB to Detroit, the Detroit cycles between locked and open automatically and ARB, to keep up with Detroit, you would be having to flip your switch like sending Morse Code constantly to achieve what Detroit’s doing automatically.

Anyway, throw out some constructive criticism. Actual trail experience, not keyboard wheeling.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Started with ARB / ARB and now have a full spool in the rear and ARB in front (3rds were not included in the purchase of the rig, but got to use for a season).

I hate the spool as it makes it harder to turn tight but at the time, I didn't have the extra $$$ and the spool was cheap.

Wheeling open / open made me a better driver way sooner and only when I needed it, engaged one or both ARBs.

That and it scares the shit out of me when a Detroit unloads. Sounds like shafts and u-joints snapping.

Will be ARB / ARB soon as I like to be in control of everything.

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Old 04-28-2016, 12:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Detroit in the rear, and Grizzly in the front....still have yet to wheel them though
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool thread idea. I had something similar a few years back that had some decent stuff.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...e-lockers.html

On my flat fender, I am running an automatic front locker (Spartan) with a selectable rear locker (Ox locker with the integrated air shift in the cover). I am running a D18 transfer case without the ability to front drive only, but I do have the pill removed so I can do rear drive only in high or low.

Prior to adding the selectable rear locker, I was running a Power-lok limited slip. In a lot of ways I liked that combo better, but ultimately the rear locker adds more capability. I will admit that the limited slip still did a lot of the mild stuff 'better' did than the open rear locker did. It is this odd in-between area.

My new project basically has 3 selectable lockers. Front, Rear, Center. It should be an interesting comparison.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Front Hi-Pin Dana 60= ARB
Rear= was a SPOOL with the 9" now a DETROIT with the 14bolt

with the ATLAS t-case I can disconnect front and rear also to do specific digs if needed
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I posted it in another thread.

I thought this was an interesting comparison on locker combos....


I agree with Mr. Currie. I think front automatic and rear selectable turns the best unless you are disconnecting the rear axle all together. It might also do it better than front dig, as it fills a gap between front drive only and locked/locked. I find I can drive around 99% of the time without having to use the rear locker at all. Ideally, I would love to have my rear limited slip back honestly. I think that worked better for all but the crazy stuff, and you didn't have to push any buttons. Some day I might give that another shot in a future build. So many ideas.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Lockright/Lockright on my 56 CJ-5. Good and cheap for what it is, but should have stayed open front to help with no power steering.

Soft-Locker/Detroit in the 80 CJ-5. Pushes a bit on the road, but with 33's it is tolerable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
My new project basically has 3 selectable lockers. Front, Rear, Center. It should be an interesting comparison.
You will like the locking center diff. I have Grizzly/Spool/selectable center in the CJ-6. Unlocked in the center and it doesn't push at all and turns great. BUT.... you will learn to lock the center on steep/slick downhills as it will skid the rear tires and the fronts will speed up. Same on uphills it will spin the fronts and not the rears. Now if I could figure out how to limited slip the center diff....
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You will like the locking center diff. I have Grizzly/Spool/selectable center in the CJ-6. Unlocked in the center and it doesn't push at all and turns great. BUT.... you will learn to lock the center on steep/slick downhills as it will skid the rear tires and the fronts will speed up. Same on uphills it will spin the fronts and not the rears. Now if I could figure out how to limited slip the center diff....
What transfer case are you running?

I am very intrigued to see how the selectable center differential changes things.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I will say I have used power locks,spools and an Ected and I always come back to Detroits.Lesson learned!!!!!Mall crawler
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yukon Zip locker in the rear (air actuated), and some sort of LSD in the front.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What transfer case are you running?

I am very intrigued to see how the selectable center differential changes things.
NP203. Big, heavy and a crappy low range, but it stays unlocked for 90% of wheeling and lets it steer great with a spool rear, automatic front and very little push. Good mechanical lock/unlock and I don't have to worry about air lines or wires at the diffs. Like I said though, the biggest change is the rear unloading and skidding downhill/front unloading on climbs and spinning. With front and rear selectables, you will probably find leaving them locked in quite often or ending up doing one wheel peels.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JunkCJ6 View Post
NP203. Big, heavy and a crappy low range, but it stays unlocked for 90% of wheeling and lets it steer great with a spool rear, automatic front and very little push. Good mechanical lock/unlock and I don't have to worry about air lines or wires at the diffs. Like I said though, the biggest change is the rear unloading and skidding downhill/front unloading on climbs and spinning. With front and rear selectables, you will probably find leaving them locked in quite often or ending up doing one wheel peels.
Interesting. I am building with a Land Rover LT230 transfer case in my new project. It has a mechanical locking diff in the front output. There are options for a limited slip diff. It could be an interesting experiment.

I run a selectable rear locker in my flat fender. I leave it off 99% of the time. The front automatic locker seems to balance out the short wheelbase well. I can usually just leave it in 4wd and not worry about much. It turns really well with no bind/push. With no center diff and the front locker it doesn't seem to need the rear locker THAT much...only for the hardest things.

I have some ideas/techniques I want to try, gotta keep learning.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Interesting. I am building with a Land Rover LT230 transfer case in my new project. It has a mechanical locking diff in the front output. There are options for a limited slip diff. It could be an interesting experiment.

I run a selectable rear locker in my flat fender. I leave it off 99% of the time. The front automatic locker seems to balance out the short wheelbase well. I can usually just leave it in 4wd and not worry about much. It turns really well with no bind/push. With no center diff and the front locker it doesn't seem to need the rear locker THAT much...only for the hardest things.

I have some ideas/techniques I want to try, gotta keep learning.
It is an interesting with the center diff. I did a twin stick for H-N-L and lock/unlock for just a quick flip of the lever to get through an obstacle and then right back into unlock. It is an enjoyable ride and I can cut corners even with the rest of the group that has less wheelbase and track width.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It is an interesting with the center diff. I did a twin stick for H-N-L and lock/unlock for just a quick flip of the lever to get through an obstacle and then right back into unlock. It is an enjoyable ride and I can cut corners even with the rest of the group that has less wheelbase and track width.
Cool, I haven't found too many people in the states who have messed around with a center diff.

Do you drive it much on the road?
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool, I haven't found too many people in the states who have messed around with a center diff.

Do you drive it much on the road?
Not a whole bunch anymore. Need to work out the death wobbles and rebuild both cv's. But when I do, it behaves like a normal jeep on 42's with soft leaf springs. I do a bit with it in full time and a bit with the tcase in lock with the front hubs unlocked. Seems to handle the same either way.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Not a whole bunch anymore. Need to work out the death wobbles and rebuild both cv's. But when I do, it behaves like a normal jeep on 42's with soft leaf springs. I do a bit with it in full time and a bit with the tcase in lock with the front hubs unlocked. Seems to handle the same either way.
Do you have any video of your Jeep on the trail by chance? Just interested in watching it work compared to other vehicles.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Rear/14 Bolt with Detroit
Front/60 with Lincoln Locker, but after watching Meisers video thinking about a detroit one day
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Do you have any video of your Jeep on the trail by chance? Just interested in watching it work compared to other vehicles.
I think I have some decent stuff in unlock that shows the center diff working. I will try to get some stuff posted tomorrow.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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14 bolt - Detroit
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Run just about all but an ARB.

Last 10-15 years it's been a spool rear, Detroit front, even on the street when it was a street driver. Overall pleased. But when I had the JK Rubicon, I have to admit selectable was awful nice.

I think if there was ever a need, as if I ever broke the rear, I'd try an ARB (or some sort of selectable) in the rear.

New Willys project has Lock-rites front and rear. They will stay, for now.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
I run a selectable rear locker in my flat fender. I leave it off 99% of the time. The front automatic locker seems to balance out the short wheelbase well. I can usually just leave it in 4wd and not worry about much. It turns really well with no bind/push. With no center diff and the front locker it doesn't seem to need the rear locker THAT much...only for the hardest things.
same experience I have in my '72 cj5. I have Spartan front/ARB rear. I leave the rear unlocked majority of the time and just run 4wd. I think it actually drives better in 4wd with the front locked on dirt/gravel roads with the short WB. Next rig will have spool front/ARB rear with cutting brakes; I don't like when the Spartan unlocks (scary noises) or when it doesn't unlock (wide turns). I'm hoping the spool and cutting brakes fix both of those issues
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:53 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Rear/14 Bolt with Detroit
Front/60 with Lincoln Locker, but after watching Meisers video thinking about a detroit one day
Just to clarify, I am not really an advocate for auto/auto. I think that pushes in turns in 4wd. If you front dig to turn tighter you have this odd situation where you need more than FWD a lot of the time....but with the rear pushing it won't turn tight enough. I don't think it is a big issue, just a quirk.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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44 front Detroit.
HP60 rear Detroit.
14 years and counting.
How many times have you heard "my ARB's (fill in the blank) not working"? I'd like to have a nickel for each time I have. And I have never heard of an issue with a Detroit. They work, and they are always there for you.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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44's front and rear.
Detroits in both.
Same as the others. They are always there, not really thought about, and just work.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:09 PM   #25 (permalink)
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44 front Detroit.
HP60 rear Detroit.
14 years and counting.
How many times have you heard "my ARB's (fill in the blank) not working"? I'd like to have a nickel for each time I have. And I have never heard of an issue with a Detroit. They work, and they are always there for you.
More than once! And that annoying compressor
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