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Old 11-19-2016, 08:09 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
What is the input shaft size?

Don't forget to double check all the dimensions in the pilot bushing in the crank also.
1 1/16th 10 spline. So a Ford disc should work.

Yeah I need to measure and order the correct pilot bushing.

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57 CJ5 - 225/T18/D20 - sitting on 35s as low as possible.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:48 AM   #102 (permalink)
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1 1/16th 10 spline. So a Ford disc should work.

Yeah I need to measure and order the correct pilot bushing.

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For some reason I think there is something funny with the Ford clutch disc....maybe it is a 10.5? I can't remember.

I have a Jeep based T18 in my flatty with the 225, so not exactly the same, but I ended up using the later CJ clutch disc with the Buick pressure plate along with a custom pilot bushings. I know I went back and forth with novak once trying to figure it all out....

Sorry I can't remember all the specifics, but just double check the dimensions on everything before you order parts.
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Old 11-22-2016, 11:32 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Just looking at that picture you have with the tub on the frame and floor cut out with the transmission being held up by an engine hoist sure does look tempting to me of just cutting my floor out later for when I swap out my transmission and building a new floor afterwards.... keep doin work!
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Old 11-23-2016, 06:06 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Just looking at that picture you have with the tub on the frame and floor cut out with the transmission being held up by an engine hoist sure does look tempting to me of just cutting my floor out later for when I swap out my transmission and building a new floor afterwards.... keep doin work!
Thanks.

I only did it because my floor was really rusty on the passenger side. If it was fairly rust free, I would only cut off what I needed for the trans/tcase. It would save a lot of work to only have to make a new tunnel.



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Old 11-23-2016, 07:29 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Awesome build, I'm starting a similar project. Definitely going to be following this, and reading in more detail (when I'm not at work).
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Old 11-23-2016, 09:08 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Awesome build, I'm starting a similar project. Definitely going to be following this, and reading in more detail (when I'm not at work).
Thanks. Feel free to ask any questions if you want, I'm not super good at posting all the details like others are.

Don't forget to post up your own thread.

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Old 11-23-2016, 09:41 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Thanks. Feel free to ask any questions if you want, I'm not super good at posting all the details like others are.

Don't forget to post up your own thread.

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Cheers, I will do! I'll let you know when I make a thread, and when I get a chance to read this in more detail I'm sure I will have some questions

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Old 11-29-2016, 12:14 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I'm going to go look at this today. Seems like a good deal.

1969 Jeepster Commando project

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Old 11-29-2016, 02:06 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I love Jeepsters. I have a '71. Good luck with the purchase
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:57 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Unfortunately I decided while a really cool jeep, it just wouldn't be financially responsible.

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Old 12-02-2016, 04:00 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Good work so far. I love seeing an old CJ come back to life.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:51 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Good work so far. I love seeing an old CJ come back to life.
Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:56 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Finally got the piece of axle tube out of the inner axle C. Damn that was a lot harder than it had to be.


Hopefully I can get the C back on the axle and mocked up underneath the car.

Ordered gears and install kit. Need to figure out what bearings and seals I need at the spindle side. It'll be fun to set up the gears, something I've never done. Learning new skills is a big part of why I love working on this Jeep.

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Old 12-02-2016, 11:57 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Put that inner C in the oven at 400 degrees for a about an hour. It'll slide right on the tube. You can do it without heating it, but unless you get it perfect on the first try, you'll never get it rotated to where you want it.
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Old 12-03-2016, 01:33 AM   #115 (permalink)
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^^^ Good idea if you don't want screwed up caster. I'd be scared to do this myself.
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:16 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Got the transmission and transfer case rebuilt. The transmission was definitely a 2 man job. The Tcase I did by myself today.

Performed the mod to the 4wd shift rail that will get me 4low front only to let me do front digs. With this mod you can keep the interlock pills and not worry about shifting into low and high at the same time!

Also extra bonus: the transfer case has 3:15 gears! ~82:1 crawl ratio!!!





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Old 12-17-2016, 08:32 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Sweet. My bro and I are doing a similar drivetrain build in a '46. We are going against convention by attempting to shoehorn a 304 under the hood, backed by a Ford T18, Teralow geared D20, and CJ5 axles. I put the 3.15 low range gearset in my '73 almost two decades ago and it was one of the best mods I ever did next to locking the axles.
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:57 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Sweet. My bro and I are doing a similar drivetrain build in a '46. We are going against convention by attempting to shoehorn a 304 under the hood, backed by a Ford T18, Teralow geared D20, and CJ5 axles. I put the 3.15 low range gearset in my '73 almost two decades ago and it was one of the best mods I ever did next to locking the axles.
Are you stretching the hood at all? That will be tight!
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:31 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Slowly but surely I'm making progress on the floor. Serious pain in the but that body work is.

Cut out the rot in the rockers and added some beef. Found at least a .25" of bondo in the front corners from previous damage. At least the old guy used his jeep!







Working on floor structure.



I can't drill a straight hole through tube to save my life. I need a drill press....

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Old 01-06-2017, 07:12 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Finally had more time in the garage.

Finishing up the floor supports. Damn it's strong now. I may not do cross pieces between each sides body mounts.



I also bought some recovery mounts. I really like these from ruff stuff. I like how much more weld area there is. I only wish they had integrated hooks like Fred's flatty.



I hope to be sitting in it next week!

I've ordered all the hydraulic clutch parts and hanging pedals from Speedway.

I think I'm going to use a 68 Corvette MC for the manual brakes (discs).

I was originally going to do manual steering but I think power steering might be better to go with now vs later.

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Old 01-29-2017, 07:38 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Things take twice as long to do. I mentor a a FIRST Robotics team for a local high school, so that takes most of my afternoon away so I just have a few hours during the week and the weekends.

I've bent the floor pans at the school and drilled a billion holes for spot welds. It's all made from 16g steel.



Still need to do the other side.



Prior to this the trans and tcase was installed. The hydraulic clutch all fit. I'm using the same internal slave as Meiser. I had to use 3' long feed and bleed lines. I hope I don't need longer!





The shifter is already bent to clear the dash, but it's so long that 1st and 2nd cause the shifter to run into the steering wheel. A little cut and rotate will take care of that. Or a smaller wheel...hmmm.

Next step is to make a temp mount for the driver seat to figure my preferred pedal position.

The new goal is to be done by March 4th for a local car show. It's a fairly big show for this corner of the Southwest.

Still trying to figure out what to do for a fuel tank. It needs to be bed mounted since I don't want to cure anymore crossmember from the rear of the frame. But I also need to fit a third seat location for my son. Does anyone have any suggestions?



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57 CJ5 - 225/T18/D20 - sitting on 35s as low as possible.

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Old 01-29-2017, 07:53 PM   #122 (permalink)
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The red paint was my son's idea. I was looking to do something sand colored to see oil leaks easily but he wanted something more bold. Reds better the gold he also suggested!

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Old 01-29-2017, 08:06 PM   #123 (permalink)
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OPTION 1: One of the fuel tank options I've been looking at is buying one of these and adding a sump for the manual pump. Since it will be in the bed I could build his seat ahead of the tank and make a false floor to provide a barrier from and him.



This tank is 30"x17"x7" high. That gives me about 13" to fit his seat. Not sure if that's enough.

OPTION 2: I could also do the standard RCI tank which is 30"x9"x12" high. This would eat all the potential bed space.



Or option 3: Build a custom tank that takes up all the bed floor but is only a few inches tall and build a false floor.

All of these options are in the 15-17 gallon range.

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Old 02-04-2017, 09:47 PM   #124 (permalink)
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So I've made the decision to use a ready made tank from RCI. Very much a compromise but a necessary one to keep the project moving in time for EJS.

Been working on the jeep every moment I have, slowly chipping away at the list.



Installed the pedal assembly from Speedway. It's all made from 1/4" so it's a heavy SOB. I used 1/8" plate to stiffen the firewall in this area. Really wish I had a plasma table.

After that, I got really tired of drilling holes in awkward positions, so I welded these clevis mounts from Ruff Stuff. Super beefy! I beveled the edges to be welded and burned them in. The only thing that would make these cooler would be to integrate a hook into them as well. Hmmm business idea?



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Old 02-05-2017, 09:54 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Doing a little CAD today before the Super Bowl.



Took me forever to get to that point and realize that I wasn't going to get a multi-planar panel perfect at home with one piece. So I did two halves connected via a step.

Here's your previous attempt on the passenger side.


On the finished product is should have enough room for the tire. It will be close.



Hopefully get that done this week and have fuel parts ordered.

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