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Old 10-03-2017, 02:51 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Do you mind sharing what criteria you provided wilwood to get that pedal recommendation? I literally found them to be of no help when I called. Perhaps i was just expecting a little deeper experience as they should have outfitted hundreds of early cj's...

I still need to measure my caliper and wheel cylinder bores, which also somewhat surprised me.

Will you use the same pedal for the clutch?
I did the "contact us" email with Wilwood. I told them a Dana 30 front with disc brakes and a Dana 4r rear with drums. Also told them I wanted a hanging pedal with the master cyl on the firewall in the engine compartment. The pedal is a 7:1, 340-13834 and a 1 1/8" bore master 260-8556. They did ask for the piston diameter on the disc brakes to specify a master bore size. It's a single pedal. I plan on using the chain clutch linkage from Advance Adapters.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:51 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Is this what you are looking for?

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Old 10-03-2017, 06:55 PM   #78 (permalink)
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I was thinking about a full floater, but I talked to a good friend that owns a 4X4 shop and he strongly warned me to stay away from them. He's had quite a few show up at his shop with recurring problems.
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:57 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Do you have the master on hand yet? I'm looking for the length from the firewall - out. I only have 5.5" between the firewall and my carburetor and the cj master that i was planning to use is 8.25"
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:18 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Do you need a centered or offset diff? I have a centered d44 out of a electric postal jeep that has about 5 miles on it.
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:53 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoCJ View Post
I was thinking about a full floater, but I talked to a good friend that owns a 4X4 shop and he strongly warned me to stay away from them. He's had quite a few show up at his shop with recurring problems.
Do you mind elaborating? I am wanting full float, so that I can drag mine behind my camper on the highway for 8 hrs, without pulling a driveshaft.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:19 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Do you have the master on hand yet? I'm looking for the length from the firewall - out. I only have 5.5" between the firewall and my carburetor and the cj master that i was planning to use is 8.25"
Here's the specs on the Wilwood master.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-8556

Looks to be about 8.15" long.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:20 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Do you need a centered or offset diff? I have a centered d44 out of a electric postal jeep that has about 5 miles on it.
Offset to the passenger side because I have a D18 T-case.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:22 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Do you mind elaborating? I am wanting full float, so that I can drag mine behind my camper on the highway for 8 hrs, without pulling a driveshaft.
He said the tubes on the early Dana 44's are smaller/weaker and tend to bend plus he's seen lots of them that leak from the hubs and it's basically impossible to get them to stop leaking.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:13 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I've heard about the thin tubes as well, guess everyone needs to weigh out their goals.
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:26 AM   #86 (permalink)
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FWIW, Meiser is running an early Dana 44 that has been converted to full float in his Willys and it seems to perform well with 35's and a V6.
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:34 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Well, not a bad day. Drilled out the last two rivets for the front bumper and installed the bumper. It's not permanent, just in place so I know where it'll be when I go to mount the power steering box. From the looks of it I'll need to open up the front cross member and weld a tube into it to get the steering shaft through.
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:43 PM   #88 (permalink)
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By that time it was 10am so I ran to the post office for some packages, then to a truck dismantler and they actually had the two pieces of the dust shield to go with the bellhousing.
Then I started ripping out the P.O.S. heater system so I have a place for the firewall mounted brake master cylinder. What a pain. Two of the captive stubs holding the core under the hood were no longer captive. I ended up prying it back some and sawsalled it off. Inside the blower section under the dash it looked like a bunch of rodents had made a nest in it. None of the wires or cables would come off so I cut them and it still barely squeezed out by depressing the clutch pedal. I decided to quit after that since it's just over 100* .
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:50 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Looks like a fun project. Is your Granddaughter going to help you with the build, or are you building it for her?
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:51 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Looks like a fun project. Is your Granddaughter going to help you with the build, or are you building it for her?
Not much help from the granddaughter. She knows nothing about how a vehicle works. I will have her do some of the clean-up though.
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:58 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Not much help from the granddaughter. She knows nothing about how a vehicle works. I will have her do some of the clean-up though.
Good plan.. Looks like it's really coming along.

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Old 10-08-2017, 11:09 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Well, more cutting/grinding to get the heater controls off the dash.
Now I'm soaking the screws holding the old vacuum wiper motors
to the top of the windshield frame. Two new 12V motors came with
the Jeep, so we'll see if I can get the old ones off without cutting.
I also noticed some body rot that was hidden by the passenger seat.
That tool box under the seat is known for holding water. Then I
looked underneath and I saw the same rot on the other side that's
hidden by the gas tank. Looks like I'll be cutting the tool box out
entirely, as I never liked them, and replacing some metal. The rot
is right where the body mount is on both sides. Planned on pulling
the tank anyway because I'll be painting the inside of the tub with
some non-skid paint.
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Old 10-08-2017, 12:50 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Have you decided which product you're going to use for the non-skid paint?

I'm looking to do the entire jeep in a truck bed liner, looking at the gator guard product as it's available in both black & white. Thinking the floorboards in black and the under pan, with the white for the res.
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:20 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Have you decided which product you're going to use for the non-skid paint?

I'm looking to do the entire jeep in a truck bed liner, looking at the gator guard product as it's available in both black & white. Thinking the floorboards in black and the under pan, with the white for the res.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...l#post42005305
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Old 10-08-2017, 04:47 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Well, I cut off the top of the tool box and as expected, lots of rot.
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:19 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Really in a quandary about the hanging brake pedal. If I use the Wilwood pedal I need to mount it to the left of the steering column and that will put it right on top of the stock clutch pedal. Since the Wilwood pedal is aluminum I don't feel good about modifying it to bend the pedal over to the right side of the column. I'd be okay with bending a steel pedal arm though.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:39 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Really in a quandary about the hanging brake pedal. If I use the Wilwood pedal I need to mount it to the left of the steering column and that will put it right on top of the stock clutch pedal. Since the Wilwood pedal is aluminum I don't feel good about modifying it to bend the pedal over to the right side of the column. I'd be okay with bending a steel pedal arm though.
I tackled that last week as well and ultimately ordered a conversion kit from Herm. It's sitting at the shop waiting for me now. I hope to work on it this weekend. Another plus for me is that it keeps the stock look on my floor board. I'm looking for a beat up looking semi-sleeper.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:30 AM   #98 (permalink)
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I tackled that last week as well and ultimately ordered a conversion kit from Herm. It's sitting at the shop waiting for me now. I hope to work on it this weekend. Another plus for me is that it keeps the stock look on my floor board. I'm looking for a beat up looking semi-sleeper.
Which conversion? He has a kit for a dual circuit master and another for a vacuum booster that uses the stock master.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:44 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Dual circuit, disc front
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Old 10-15-2017, 04:12 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Well, Lots of cutting and grinding. I've come to the conclusion that the whole riser from the front floor pan to the rear floor pan needs to be replaced.
To really get it cut out and replaced/welded in I'll need to pull the tub. Not a huge deal and I already have the new body bushing kit. This will make it
a whole lot easier to work on the frame and box it. Next Saturday I'll be clearing out the other side of the garage for a place to store the tub.
Found the riser here................ http://www.classicent.com/jeep/cj5-m38a-1951-1971 for $95.
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