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Old 11-29-2017, 06:34 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I got a new toy to help with the Jeep. A 40lb pressurized sand blaster so I can get the frame and tub cleaned up.
The plan is to start on the frame first thing Saturday morning.
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Old 11-29-2017, 06:39 AM   #127 (permalink)
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I got a new toy to help with the Jeep. A 40lb pressurized sand blaster so I can get the frame and tub cleaned up.
The plan is to start on the frame first thing Saturday morning.
Hope it works out well I had mine done professionally for only 250 bucks including the tub. I highly recommend it that shit makes a mess.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:00 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Hope it works out well I had mine done professionally for only 250 bucks including the tub. I highly recommend it that shit makes a mess.
I got a couple of quotes here and it was $350-$450 just for the frame. The blaster and 50lbs of walnut shell grit was under $175 with tax.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:10 AM   #129 (permalink)
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I got a couple of quotes here and it was $350-$450 just for the frame. The blaster and 50lbs of walnut shell grit was under $175 with tax.
Damn yeah thats expensive for just blasting. How long do you think 50lbs will last you the entire frame? I think you may go thru a lot more media than that but I am only familiar with using black beauty.

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Old 11-29-2017, 08:26 AM   #130 (permalink)
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I've got a freshly rebuilt 225/231OF/231EF frankenstein ECJ5 with 3.73s in the rear end. When running some no-name Pep Boys all terrain 31s I could keep up with the fast lane around Atlanta without really struggling.

I then switched to 33 LTBs and, well... it's a struggle to even really stay on the expressway without overheating things. Since then I've been off/on searching for some 4.27 geared axles.

My opinion, the 4.27s would be a good compromise between the 31s and 33s. If anything it gives a little room to grow if need be.
What transmission/transfer case does it have?


Also, solid screen name choice.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:27 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Damn yeah thats expensive for just blasting. How long do you think 50lbs will last you the entire frame? I think you may go thru a lot more media than that but I am only familiar with using black beauty.
You could always scoop up the media, screen it and reuse it.
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:07 PM   #132 (permalink)
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What transmission/transfer case does it have?


Also, solid screen name choice.
It's got a T-15 from a commando in it along with the stock d18.
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:39 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Well, I got the new sand blaster out first thing this morning. Not perfect, but a whole lot better than what it was. It sure was easier and faster than a flapper wheel. I didn't bother with the springs because I have new ones to install.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:25 AM   #134 (permalink)
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GGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I can't get the left rear tire off. The lugnuts won't budge, even with an impact gun. Sprayed a bunch of rust buster on them and I'll let them soak for a bit.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:46 AM   #135 (permalink)
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GGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I can't get the left rear tire off. The lugnuts won't budge, even with an impact gun. Sprayed a bunch of rust buster on them and I'll let them soak for a bit.
On my friends CJ 3B, that wheel has backwards threads.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:06 AM   #136 (permalink)
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On my friends CJ 3B, that will has backwards threads.
I'll give it a shot. Now that I think about my 1969 Dodge Dart had those too.



SUCCESS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks frank.
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:46 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Damn, now I have another problem. The u-bolts holding the rear axle on were 7/16" and the new u-bolts I have are 1/2". I drilled out the holes in the plate so the 1/2" u-bolts would go through, but when I install them the thicker u-bolt shoves the plate over just enough to partially cover the hole for the second u-bolt. There's not enough meat left on the plate to oval out the holes. I'll be looking for some 7/16" u-bolts now.

Ordered them from Vintage Jeep. Lets hope these will work.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:42 PM   #138 (permalink)
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I'm not too happy right now with the 4" lift springs. They're supposed to be for this 1964 CJ5 but they're about 2"-3" shorter eye to eye. This really screws up the shackle angle.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:39 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Are all the springs the same length all around?
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:59 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Are all the springs the same length all around?
The fronts are shorter than the rears. Both front and rear are 2-3 inches shorter than the stock springs that were on the Jeep.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:02 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Ok, I was just checking that you didn't accidentally put the front in the rear/vice versa.

Don't lift springs typically measure out shorter unsprung/with little weight? They should flatten out with weight on them right?
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:18 AM   #142 (permalink)
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Ok, I was just checking that you didn't accidentally put the front in the rear/vice versa.

Don't lift springs typically measure out shorter unsprung/with little weight? They should flatten out with weight on them right?
I'm hoping they will, but right now it doesn't look promising.
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Old 12-17-2017, 01:20 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Well, there was no way to get the rear springs in and keep the shackle angle anywhere near correct, so I moved the rear spring hangers back 3". That was the distance between the rivets on the hangers. Ground off the rivets and the bugger welds to get the hangers off the frame. Put a bolt thru the front hole of the hanger into the hole where the rear rivet was. Then drilled another hole in the frame for the rear hanger hole. I also used a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/2" bar stock on the inside of the frame to beef it up a bit. The shackle angle is much better now. I'm going to have to do the same on the front. That means having to cut away some of the boxing to get at the rivets, then replace it with some reliefs to access the nuts holding the hangers on.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:23 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Not being able to see all the factors in person I may be wrong, but if your shackle angle looks like that now, it's going to be flat or more when you get done. I wouldn't weld the hangers in till all the weight is on and the springs have settled. In fact, I bolted my spring and shackle hangers only. Should make future adjustments easier.
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:38 AM   #145 (permalink)
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Not being able to see all the factors in person I may be wrong, but if your shackle angle looks like that now, it's going to be flat or more when you get done. I wouldn't weld the hangers in till all the weight is on and the springs have settled. In fact, I bolted my spring and shackle hangers only. Should make future adjustments easier.
I don't plan on welding the hangers at all. If need be I gave it a close look and I can move the shackle hangers out toward the bumpers about 1 1/2" if need be. That would split the difference, plus give a bit more wheelbase.
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:44 AM   #146 (permalink)
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(Distance eye to eye, flat) - (distance eye to eye, free) +1" = shackle length

(Distance eye to eye, flat) - (shackle length) + 1/2" = distance from fixed hanger to frame shackle hanger

My only concern with bolting vs welding is that it will be a maintenance item. Are you taking sole responsibility for the maintenance/ upkeep of this jeep?

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Old 12-18-2017, 09:43 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:35 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Did they send you cj2a/3a springs instead of early cj5 springs cj2a springs are about 2 or 3 inches shorter.
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:37 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Did they send you cj2a/3a springs instead of early cj5 springs cj2a springs are about 2 or 3 inches shorter.
Possible. They screwed up the order from day one. When the springs first arrived two of them were the OME 2 1/2" springs for a Wrangler.
Then they sent the wrong u-bolts for the rear, as they were 1/2" bigger in the I.D. than the axle tubes.
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:54 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Well, I have the front springs hung on the frame and of course the u-bolts that were supplied with the springs were 1/2", so I have the same problem as on the rear with the spring plates. I ordered some 7/16" u-bolts from Vintage Jeep Parts to solve it.
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