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Old 11-26-2018, 07:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Re-Powered 46WILYZ

I am starting my winter project to repower my my rig. The goal is to be ready for wheeling in the spring. I am removing my 4.3 tbi and my SM420 to repower it with a 5.3 lm7 and 4l60E. I already have the 5.3 (DBW) 130k out of a Denali, I had a local guy rework my wiring harness and flash my ECM and the 4l60E I am in the process of rebuilding and replacing the output shaft (Novak D300 Adaptor). Once the re-power is done, I will swap my front dana 44 out for my new Dana 60.

To start, I have never opened up an automatic transmission before, but how else do you learn how to do stuff, just try it and watch "youtube". I did find a really good video series on how to rebuild it. I also figured out a way to hold the tranny.



So I had heard that if you strip out one of the bellhousing bolts, it is a pain in the ass to deal with. Whoever, rebuilt the tranny before had stripped one of the heads. I thought I could drill it and use an easy out, but then I just drilled the head of it and welded a metal rod to it. with a pair of vise grips it backed right out.



Once I got it apart, everything looked real good except the 3-4 clutches. This was due to a bad piston seal in the input drum. I ordered new parts that should be here next week. Rebuild kit, new berg warner clutches and steels, Zpak 3-4, new aluminum pistons (accumulator, 1-2 and 3-4), Beast Sun Shell, Transgo shift kit, sonnax .49 boost valve, and corvette servo. I still need to order an extra cap. pan for it.

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Old 11-26-2018, 10:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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5.3 out of a Denali? Shouldn't a Denali have a 6.0 lq4 backed by a 4l60e? That would be a hell of a surprise. Either way it should run good with either the 5.3 or 6.0.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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5.3 out of a Denali? Shouldn't a Denali have a 6.0 lq4 backed by a 4l60e? That would be a hell of a surprise. Either way it should run good with either the 5.3 or 6.0.
I thought they said it was a Yukon Denali, but I just googled the vin and came up with a Yukon SLE, with a 5.3

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Old 11-27-2018, 07:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Were going to have a badass group photo this spring!................ I'll tell you a easy way how to turn the knuckles on the 60 when your ready. youtube videos have helped me a lot, good luck on the trans
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Were going to have a badass group photo this spring!................ I'll tell you a easy way how to turn the knuckles on the 60 when your ready. youtube videos have helped me a lot, good luck on the trans
My plan is that I bought a piece of DOM and I am going to cut the tubes, sleeve the inside, and weld it back up. Do you have an easier idea? After talking to you and reading horror stories about it, I figured this was my best route.
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Exactly, cut the weld completely off at the knuckle and tube, chamfer the tube back 1/2" for a 1/2" tube thickness. Grind a couple notches in the tube to put some small welds, pound your sleeve in half way, spot weld it in place, then pound the knuckle on. The sleeve does not have to be extremely tight. For the road 8-10 deg., offroad 15-20 deg. My pinion came out 12 deg., knuckle 12 deg. I wanted 17 deg. to align the pinion with the front output shaft, and 15 deg. at the knuckle. But the upper and lower links are adjustable to about 5 to 8 deg +/-.
Just planning ahead, I have a lot of droop with the 16" coil overs, at nearly full droop my front drive shaft hits hard on the lower link. I will have to use limiting straps. By keeping the pinion a little high, it will give it a little more clearance when you link the front next year.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The one axle I sleeved I had to turn down the closest size tubing about .050 to fit correctly. If that's the case and wont fit in your lathe let me know, I owe you a favor for that banding.
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not sure if you saw the boost valve with o-rings and a progressive rate spring which offers better performance and a longer life. Got these AN fittings from Sweet performance for my 4l80. Also my gmc has a breather that is connected to the vent/tube and is mounted at the top point of the bell housing to keep elements out.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimCubed View Post
Exactly, cut the weld completely off at the knuckle and tube, chamfer the tube back 1/2" for a 1/2" tube thickness. Grind a couple notches in the tube to put some small welds, pound your sleeve in half way, spot weld it in place, then pound the knuckle on. The sleeve does not have to be extremely tight. For the road 8-10 deg., offroad 15-20 deg. My pinion came out 12 deg., knuckle 12 deg. I wanted 17 deg. to align the pinion with the front output shaft, and 15 deg. at the knuckle. But the upper and lower links are adjustable to about 5 to 8 deg +/-.
Just planning ahead, I have a lot of droop with the 16" coil overs, at nearly full droop my front drive shaft hits hard on the lower link. I will have to use limiting straps. By keeping the pinion a little high, it will give it a little more clearance when you link the front next year.
Thanks Tim, I did the cut and turn twice on my 44. The second time was to get the clearance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedyota View Post
The one axle I sleeved I had to turn down the closest size tubing about .050 to fit correctly. If that's the case and wont fit in your lathe let me know, I owe you a favor for that banding.
Thanks, the DOM should fit on my lathe and yes, I will need to trim a few thousands off of it to get it to fit nice.

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Not sure if you saw the boost valve with o-rings and a progressive rate spring which offers better performance and a longer life. Got these AN fittings from Sweet performance for my 4l80. Also my gmc has a breather that is connected to the vent/tube and is mounted at the top point of the bell housing to keep elements out.
I ordered and received today, the Sonnax .49 progressive boost valve with x2 o rings. I was looking at the 6an fitting too but I have not ordered them yet. I was going to read and make sure of the right size lines for the fittings. I have messed with the an fittings and lines.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I am 100% committed after today's work in the shop. I am going to be selling some parts off also. 4.3 tbi with AFI harness and ECM, SM420, Novak sm420 to dana 300 adaptor. Not for sure when I will list the stuff, but soon.





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Old 11-28-2018, 11:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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AN6 will be plenty good. There would be a step restriction from the trans to 8 anyway.
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Old 11-30-2018, 01:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Question about gearing:

Before I decided to go with the 4l60E, with a .70 overdrive, I re-geared my new front axle to 4.88 thinking I would have a 1:1 first gear on the highway. Now I am thinking of selling my current gears and re-gearing it again with 5.38s or 5.86s. With the 5.3 and .70 overdrive and 38-40" tires.

With 5.86s @ 65mph overdrive RPMs should be around 2420 with 38's

With 5.38s @ 65mph overdrive RPMs should be around 2222 with 38's

With 4.88s @ 65mph overdrive RPMs should be around 2020 with 38's

as for crawl ratio's, I originally planned on doing a 4:1 lomax for my Dana 300, but they raised the price and I have second thought about gear reduction through a stock case. (I don't have money for an Atlas, with my current upgrades)

Crawling:

3.06 x 4 x 4.88 = 59:1

3.06 x 2.62 x 4.88 = 39:1

3.06 x 2.62 x 5.38 = 43:1

3.06 x 2.62 x 5.86 = 47:1

I've never rock crawled with an auto, but have read that 50:1 is the ideal goal.

Tell me what you guys think is the best? for highway and trail.
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Old 11-30-2018, 03:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Rodney,

I would stick with 4.88's and see how they work. You have a bit more room to play with since you are running an auto trans.

Love the upgrades!
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Awesome to see some 'new' projects on here again.
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Awesome to see some 'new' projects on here again.
What gear ratios did you end up with for your Rubicon trip?
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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What gear ratios did you end up with for your Rubicon trip?
On the LX45?

It is a bit odd. It is running a 6L80E automatic so it has a 4.03:1 1st gear and a .67 double overdrive 6th gear. My transfer case is a LT230 Land Rover unit with a 1.22 high range and a 3.32 low range. The diff gears are 4.10s.

Because of the underdrive high range you can basically think about it like it has a 5.00:1 ring and pinion and a 2.72:1 low range.

All this puts me at 54:1 crawl ratio with the 40" tires.

Overall, I couldn't really be any happier. Now, being as nerdy as I am, I can pick a few things apart. On the highway, I could be a hair lower with the 6spd auto. I am only turning like 2000rpm at 70mph. With the aerodynamics of the the 60s, which is similar to a flatty, the axle gears could be a good deal lower without hurting anything.

On the low range side of things, I wouldn't want it any deeper. It is in the sweet spot in my opnion, it could be closer to 50:1 with the 40" tires without any big issues. My general rule of thumb is that crawl ratio with an automatic should never be less than the tire size....so 40:1 would be as high as I wanted to go.

One thing I notice with the LX45 is that I can notice through the suspension that it has a lot of upstream gearing. If the suspension wasn't as well behaved as it was ( basically stock geometry ) it would be a bigger issue. On the next one I want to go back to much more downstream gearing. That will keep the chassis more settled and keep stress off the driveshafts and pinion.

So with your 4L60E based combo....

I would gear the heck out of the axles and keep the transfer case ratio mild. I don't know how much you want to drive it on the highway, but I would even consider something like some 6.17/6.20 honestly. The LS won't really care about RPM and will run 3K+ all day long if you wanted to. With the aerodynamics and big heavy tires, the engine is probably going to be a bit happier with more gearing which should prevent the 3-4 shuffle on mild hills. 3rd gear should be plenty deep for any mountain road and pass type stuff.
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I had some shop time today and thought I would get the Tranny rebuilt. It started out great until I got to the "reverse input drum lip seals" I nicked the seal with the feeler gauge as I was trying to instal it. I had to order the new seal, so now I wait again. I then decide I would rebuild the pump and have it ready, well I was sent the wrong boost valve. I ordered the Sonnax LB1 for early transmissions and received a LB2. They are now sending me the correct boost valve. So hopefully the parts will come in and I'll have some time this next week to continue.

Here are the parts I am installing.

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Old 12-04-2018, 08:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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On the LX45?



It is a bit odd. It is running a 6L80E automatic so it has a 4.03:1 1st gear and a .67 double overdrive 6th gear. My transfer case is a LT230 Land Rover unit with a 1.22 high range and a 3.32 low range. The diff gears are 4.10s.



Because of the underdrive high range you can basically think about it like it has a 5.00:1 ring and pinion and a 2.72:1 low range.



All this puts me at 54:1 crawl ratio with the 40" tires.



Overall, I couldn't really be any happier. Now, being as nerdy as I am, I can pick a few things apart. On the highway, I could be a hair lower with the 6spd auto. I am only turning like 2000rpm at 70mph. With the aerodynamics of the the 60s, which is similar to a flatty, the axle gears could be a good deal lower without hurting anything.



On the low range side of things, I wouldn't want it any deeper. It is in the sweet spot in my opnion, it could be closer to 50:1 with the 40" tires without any big issues. My general rule of thumb is that crawl ratio with an automatic should never be less than the tire size....so 40:1 would be as high as I wanted to go.



One thing I notice with the LX45 is that I can notice through the suspension that it has a lot of upstream gearing. If the suspension wasn't as well behaved as it was ( basically stock geometry ) it would be a bigger issue. On the next one I want to go back to much more downstream gearing. That will keep the chassis more settled and keep stress off the driveshafts and pinion.



So with your 4L60E based combo....



I would gear the heck out of the axles and keep the transfer case ratio mild. I don't know how much you want to drive it on the highway, but I would even consider something like some 6.17/6.20 honestly. The LS won't really care about RPM and will run 3K+ all day long if you wanted to. With the aerodynamics and big heavy tires, the engine is probably going to be a bit happier with more gearing which should prevent the 3-4 shuffle on mild hills. 3rd gear should be plenty deep for any mountain road and pass type stuff.


What do you mean upstream/downstream?


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Old 12-04-2018, 08:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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What do you mean upstream/downstream?


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I believe he is talking about gearing your axles (downstream) vs gearing your tranny and transfer case (upstream)

I believe gearing the upstream puts more torque and stress on your driveline and u-joints.
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I believe he is talking about gearing your axles (downstream) vs gearing your tranny and transfer case (upstream)



I believe gearing the upstream puts more torque and stress on your driveline and u-joints.


Interesting. Makes sense. Thanks


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Old 12-05-2018, 06:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I decided to order a 2200-2500 stall torque converter today. Ron's (Rckme56) rig and my rig, are very close on build and weight. He is running a 2400 stall and said he is very happy with it.

I also ordered a B&M 81052 Pro Stick Black Automatic Shifter with Stealth Magnum Grip. I plan on doing the Billavista modification to it. I was looking at the winters shifter, but really like the way the Billavista is set up.

https://youtu.be/IXlV-bUKy6Q

BillaVista.com-Ultimate Offroad Auto Shifter Tech Article by BillaVista
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I found an easy way to install the 4l60e reverse input drum piston. I tried using the feeler gauge and could not get it, all I did was nick the lip seal and had to order new ones.

Here is what I did, I cut up a couple soda cans, lubed them up, used them for shims, and slid the piston right in. The shims then slid right out.



The Tranny is complete and now all back together. I believe I did a good job, but I will not know until I have the swap done.

Here is the video series that I used to rebuild it. It is great!

https://youtu.be/SK84Qy_Vu_E

It did get confusing with some of the aftermarket parts/upgrades, that where different than the video. All in all it was not bad at all for a first time opening an automatic transmission.
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I set the engine in on my existing 4.3 motor mounts and everything looks like a pretty good fit. I had to remove my grill hoop and I am not for sure if I will replace it or not. The tranny clears everything except the driveline.

I am in a decision mode currently of what I want to try. I may be able to order a new driveline yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p41....25_inch_.html and build me a 1.25"x.188" front driveline, or I may build my my own dana 300 flip kit. home made dana 300 flip - HRJA Online Community

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Old 12-16-2018, 09:45 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I have a flipped 300 like these:

Dana 300 Flip Kit, Check it out!!

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...ll-around.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...-flip-kit.html

Unfortunately the drawing files seem to have been lost over time. I think Kraqa is on Pirate too. It might be worth pm-ing him to see if he still has info?
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Old 12-16-2018, 03:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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cool--I'll be looking at your tranny rebuild tech also...
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