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Old 09-19-2019, 07:04 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
Complete?! Hub to hub? If so that's a steal.
Yup, complete minus calipers. 3.73 gears, 19 spline inners, 10 spline outers, drive flanges, disc brakes. Rear is a 2pc axle with 19 spline shafts and drum brakes.
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:03 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Can you get Roxor axles up there? Basically new 53" wide Dana 44 clones for about $1000Us per end down here.
Not sure, I can stop by a local dealer Monday and find out. However this got me thinking...

https://www.justdifferentials.com/Ma...p/axn24125.htm

Yes these are kind of expensive but what if I was able to shorten a Ford D44 (which I can easily find) and stick these Roxor axles inside it? Not sure if the outer splines would work though...
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Doing an LS ( or any V8 swap ) properly in a flatty requires a 3-4" nose job in my opinion. The truck intake and pan make it more difficult to package things vertically along with the truck accessories. Those 'cheap' LS 4.8 and 5.3 swaps turn into something much more involved.

A D44 with 35s or less in something the weight of a flat fender is a good package. Tons in a flatty will basically make it into a buggy once you sort out the packaging and wheelbase.
I put a bone stock 5.3L truck engine with all truck accessories and truck intake. I was able to fit it without stretching the front end at all. But Mieser is right, it is a lot of work. It seemed like there were constantly new 'little things' that kept popping up needing to be addressed. In the end, it all fits. I could have fit the entire engine under the hood, however since the hood already had a big hole in it, I just put the plastic cowling back on the engine and let it stick out.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...d-build-6.html
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Old 09-29-2019, 04:48 PM   #29 (permalink)
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So leaf spring Gods,

Do I stick with a 2" spring or upgrade to 2.5"?
Besides the obvious packaging limitations using stockish axles (CJ5 D44), any reason not to run the wider spring?

The superlift springs Mieser used are no longer offered, but CJ5 springs seem available to piece together a kit and are a touch shorter than YJs. The more I see how well leaf springs work up front, I want to keep this one old school, especially for on-road characteristics.
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:36 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The 4.3 isn't a super impressive engine on paper. But it really is the perfect engine for a lightish off road rig. I wasn't a believer until I owned a 96 s10. That rig hauled ass and even towed pretty well for a small rig. They make great torque and decent hp. The biggest advantage is that they're cheap and plentiful.

A small 4cyl may not be that happy with only 4:1 in technical crawling.
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:53 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Mieser,

Do you think I would be making a huge mistake sticking a 4.8 or 5.3 into one of these? I'd be stretching the nose and body regardless... perhaps 10" overall.

I was thinking... it's a Willy's despite wanting an auto, is it a right of passage that it be a manual trans? It would certainly be more theft proof that way
Mieser makes a solid point here.

the lv3 all aluminum v6 is 285hp/305 tq, its been out since 2014 and several swaps out there now. I have helped with one and aside from the 208 harness being a headache the rest of the engine choice has been a winner.


as to auto to manual, i now have two willys, 1 is a completely stock 48 with manual, the second is my ls/904/dana 300 willys. Other than the cool factor, i wish i had done a lv3 v6 now.

My build is a bit of a bastard but my crank is right behind my axle, I have 6 inches added to my nose. with a v6 it would be even easier, no need for such a long add on.

-Shawn
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Old 11-02-2019, 12:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I walked away from a cobbled together Willys last weekend but I realized, I don't even know what engine I should be using/looking for.

Modern tech is appealing to me, so I think Ecotec but these threads are scattered with information I'm not sure what's right or wrong.

I think I'd like to run an AW4 and manually shift it. This solves two issues, one excessive wiring and two I can easily run the D300 I already own in a passenger drop configuration.

Very difficult to find something to put in front of the AW4 though.
I don't understand why I cannot use an AW4 if an AX15 will bolt up? Ex: solstice bellhousing
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Old 11-02-2019, 10:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I walked away from a cobbled together Willys last weekend but I realized, I don't even know what engine I should be using/looking for.

Modern tech is appealing to me, so I think Ecotec but these threads are scattered with information I'm not sure what's right or wrong.

I think I'd like to run an AW4 and manually shift it. This solves two issues, one excessive wiring and two I can easily run the D300 I already own in a passenger drop configuration.

Very difficult to find something to put in front of the AW4 though.
I don't understand why I cannot use an AW4 if an AX15 will bolt up? Ex: solstice bellhousing
The AW4 is a pretty long transmission, just be aware of that in regards to wheelbase.

The AW4 bellhousing is removeable. There are a few different versions. It is also basically the same thing as a Toyota A340 and a few other variations.
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Old 11-03-2019, 04:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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The AW4 is a pretty long transmission, just be aware of that in regards to wheelbase.

The AW4 bellhousing is removeable. There are a few different versions. It is also basically the same thing as a Toyota A340 and a few other variations.
Itís basically the same length as a 4l60e and I believe it will be shorter once the trans/tcase adapter is factored in. It would solve any driveshaft issues and pan clearance which is why Iím interested
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:33 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Itís basically the same length as a 4l60e and I believe it will be shorter once the trans/tcase adapter is factored in. It would solve any driveshaft issues and pan clearance which is why Iím interested
Both those transmissions aren't really going to fit in a flatty with a stock wheelbase. Even with moving the axle back about 3" you will have a 12-13" rear driveline. If it is centered it will be steep if you keep much belly clearance.
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:07 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Some less than exciting news, I picked up a butched HP D44 housing for $20 which I plan on changing over to passenger side drop! Someone cut the C's off of it but I am working on a D30 donor as we speak with a matching D44 rear from a CJ5. the HP44 has 3/8" tubes so I think I'm going to sleeve it internally and get the D30 C's mounted. I guess I could leave it alone but what is the fun in that?

Brennan, I will likely be ordering your disk brake conversion brackets in the near future. Do you have any interest in making some full float spacers for the rear?
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:33 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Some less than exciting news, I picked up a butched HP D44 housing for $20 which I plan on changing over to passenger side drop! Someone cut the C's off of it but I am working on a D30 donor as we speak with a matching D44 rear from a CJ5. the HP44 has 3/8" tubes so I think I'm going to sleeve it internally and get the D30 C's mounted. I guess I could leave it alone but what is the fun in that?

Brennan, I will likely be ordering your disk brake conversion brackets in the near future. Do you have any interest in making some full float spacers for the rear?
Maybe, I would have to source some material and all that. They aren't hard to make if you have someone local you can bribe with a lathe.
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Old 11-23-2019, 05:49 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Well I need to post some pics but I did something stupid!
1x rolling frame with Cj2a body without powertrain, the body doesnít seem salvageable
1x rolling frame cj3B complete minus body f134 engine, t90, d18,
1x offset rear cj5 era D44
1x YJ D30 and 35

50Ē WMS FULL FLOAT D60 rear with 5.86 gears complete and sprung under at correct width
53Ē WMS Low pinion D44 front with 5.8x gears missing shafts, and factory hydraulic ram, would also bolt in however the diff is more centered and sprung over. These axles are out of a piece of heavy equipment. Iíll be pulling the d60 cover today to check for a Detroit locker.

Some hydrostatic tcase from the unknown machine as well... it has 4:1 gears
Called ďHub CityĒ model 200

https://www.motioncanada.ca/productD...p?sku=00868535

Anyone know about that type of stuff? It seems like a cool thing to use if I could make it work!
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Old 11-30-2019, 03:21 PM   #39 (permalink)
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So I tore into my rear D60 last night to see what the full float spline count was.
Turns out it's 30 spline. Not 35 spline so it's not even as strong as a 14B

I am really torn and not sure what to do.
The pros of the axle:

-50" WMS and the leaf spring locations are bolt in for Willys
-5.86 R&P so I save $ on a gear install but maybe my gearing is too deep?
-It's un-sprung weight so that is a good thing I guess

Cons:
-It's still heavy as balls with 10" of meat missing
-No parking brake provisions factory because it came out of a Zamboni. I was going to convert the rear to disk anyway (originally planning a 44 swap) but now I do not have a great parking brake solution. I was going to do what Pigge did with the electronic Volvo calipers but the rotors are too fat on one ton stuff. The Eldorado calipers are a poor solution and difficult to find in Canada because of our small population and lack of those cars on the road.
-I have two complete sets of factory Willy's wheels and now I'll have to buy a set of 8 bolt wheels for this axle if I choose to run it
-The carrier is open so I still need to drop $$$ on a traction aid, I was thinking ARB

I'm only planning to run 34" TSL pizza cutters, MAYBE the Q78s (35.5) and I am concerned I'm making a mistake clearance wise with the D60.

Thoughts?
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:43 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This thread needs some pictures for ya!



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