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Old 09-19-2019, 07:04 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
Complete?! Hub to hub? If so that's a steal.
Yup, complete minus calipers. 3.73 gears, 19 spline inners, 10 spline outers, drive flanges, disc brakes. Rear is a 2pc axle with 19 spline shafts and drum brakes.
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:03 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Can you get Roxor axles up there? Basically new 53" wide Dana 44 clones for about $1000Us per end down here.
Not sure, I can stop by a local dealer Monday and find out. However this got me thinking...

https://www.justdifferentials.com/Ma...p/axn24125.htm

Yes these are kind of expensive but what if I was able to shorten a Ford D44 (which I can easily find) and stick these Roxor axles inside it? Not sure if the outer splines would work though...
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Doing an LS ( or any V8 swap ) properly in a flatty requires a 3-4" nose job in my opinion. The truck intake and pan make it more difficult to package things vertically along with the truck accessories. Those 'cheap' LS 4.8 and 5.3 swaps turn into something much more involved.

A D44 with 35s or less in something the weight of a flat fender is a good package. Tons in a flatty will basically make it into a buggy once you sort out the packaging and wheelbase.
I put a bone stock 5.3L truck engine with all truck accessories and truck intake. I was able to fit it without stretching the front end at all. But Mieser is right, it is a lot of work. It seemed like there were constantly new 'little things' that kept popping up needing to be addressed. In the end, it all fits. I could have fit the entire engine under the hood, however since the hood already had a big hole in it, I just put the plastic cowling back on the engine and let it stick out.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...d-build-6.html
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Old 09-29-2019, 04:48 PM   #29 (permalink)
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So leaf spring Gods,

Do I stick with a 2" spring or upgrade to 2.5"?
Besides the obvious packaging limitations using stockish axles (CJ5 D44), any reason not to run the wider spring?

The superlift springs Mieser used are no longer offered, but CJ5 springs seem available to piece together a kit and are a touch shorter than YJs. The more I see how well leaf springs work up front, I want to keep this one old school, especially for on-road characteristics.
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:36 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The 4.3 isn't a super impressive engine on paper. But it really is the perfect engine for a lightish off road rig. I wasn't a believer until I owned a 96 s10. That rig hauled ass and even towed pretty well for a small rig. They make great torque and decent hp. The biggest advantage is that they're cheap and plentiful.

A small 4cyl may not be that happy with only 4:1 in technical crawling.
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:53 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Mieser,

Do you think I would be making a huge mistake sticking a 4.8 or 5.3 into one of these? I'd be stretching the nose and body regardless... perhaps 10" overall.

I was thinking... it's a Willy's despite wanting an auto, is it a right of passage that it be a manual trans? It would certainly be more theft proof that way
Mieser makes a solid point here.

the lv3 all aluminum v6 is 285hp/305 tq, its been out since 2014 and several swaps out there now. I have helped with one and aside from the 208 harness being a headache the rest of the engine choice has been a winner.


as to auto to manual, i now have two willys, 1 is a completely stock 48 with manual, the second is my ls/904/dana 300 willys. Other than the cool factor, i wish i had done a lv3 v6 now.

My build is a bit of a bastard but my crank is right behind my axle, I have 6 inches added to my nose. with a v6 it would be even easier, no need for such a long add on.

-Shawn
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Old 11-02-2019, 12:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I walked away from a cobbled together Willys last weekend but I realized, I don't even know what engine I should be using/looking for.

Modern tech is appealing to me, so I think Ecotec but these threads are scattered with information I'm not sure what's right or wrong.

I think I'd like to run an AW4 and manually shift it. This solves two issues, one excessive wiring and two I can easily run the D300 I already own in a passenger drop configuration.

Very difficult to find something to put in front of the AW4 though.
I don't understand why I cannot use an AW4 if an AX15 will bolt up? Ex: solstice bellhousing
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Old 11-02-2019, 10:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by [Memphis] View Post
I walked away from a cobbled together Willys last weekend but I realized, I don't even know what engine I should be using/looking for.

Modern tech is appealing to me, so I think Ecotec but these threads are scattered with information I'm not sure what's right or wrong.

I think I'd like to run an AW4 and manually shift it. This solves two issues, one excessive wiring and two I can easily run the D300 I already own in a passenger drop configuration.

Very difficult to find something to put in front of the AW4 though.
I don't understand why I cannot use an AW4 if an AX15 will bolt up? Ex: solstice bellhousing
The AW4 is a pretty long transmission, just be aware of that in regards to wheelbase.

The AW4 bellhousing is removeable. There are a few different versions. It is also basically the same thing as a Toyota A340 and a few other variations.
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Old 11-03-2019, 04:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
The AW4 is a pretty long transmission, just be aware of that in regards to wheelbase.

The AW4 bellhousing is removeable. There are a few different versions. It is also basically the same thing as a Toyota A340 and a few other variations.
Itís basically the same length as a 4l60e and I believe it will be shorter once the trans/tcase adapter is factored in. It would solve any driveshaft issues and pan clearance which is why Iím interested
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:33 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Itís basically the same length as a 4l60e and I believe it will be shorter once the trans/tcase adapter is factored in. It would solve any driveshaft issues and pan clearance which is why Iím interested
Both those transmissions aren't really going to fit in a flatty with a stock wheelbase. Even with moving the axle back about 3" you will have a 12-13" rear driveline. If it is centered it will be steep if you keep much belly clearance.
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