1947 Willys CJ-2a retro-wheeler (build) - Page 19 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:53 PM   #451 (permalink)
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After that I put everything back together. The gas tank dropped in great and I used some new 1" x 3/16" silicon rubber pads (from mcmaster carr) to support it. Two strips, about 18" long each.

The stupid gas line that I fabricated ended up exactly 1/4" too short to be of any use. I tried and tried to shift it, bend it, stretch---no luck! In the end I made a bend in it and bridged the gap to the gas tank with 3-4" of fuel line tubing.

Everything else went together pretty much as it should.

Here's it is all installed. Some details:





The shift boot I used worked out. Barely but it worked out just fine.





Last night I took it out for a 50 mile drive and it did very well. The transmission lever (and OD) could be 1-2" shorter and bent forward 2-3" to make it a little more comfortable to shift. The lever does bump my knee in 2nd, but I don't really have room to shift it over much more without having to redo all the other three levers. I haven't crawled around much with it, no trails around my house really, but it seems to work as it should.

As I mentioned before it is a heavier shifting transmission than the T90 and I think it's a little noisier, but it's not bad. It's much quieter than a SM420 for instance, but I think that hollow noise I had mentioned may just be the way this one sounds.

Anyway, all is good. Also another bit of good news, we got an offer on the house. Anybody want to buy an 80 gallon dual stage air compressor? More importantly, does anyone want to move it out of my basement!?
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:31 AM   #452 (permalink)
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Do you have a part number for the gas tank pad? I need a better solution for my Willys Wagon.
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:22 AM   #453 (permalink)
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Sure, the one I used is this one: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=7665K35

They have a huge selection of stuff like this so I would look around a bit to see what fits your needs best. I would start here.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:54 PM   #454 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link to McMaster. Should be something there I can use.
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:39 AM   #455 (permalink)
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Great build and attention to detail for this clean little CJ2a !

Any updates? wheeling pictures?
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Old 11-29-2014, 03:45 PM   #456 (permalink)
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Thanks. Well, it's been a busy summer, but not a lot of updates for my old flatty. I think there are times in life where a person has a lot of time, and opportuninties for wheeling and tinkering in the garage and times when you just don't. I've got two younger kids, lots of good stuff going on, but the flatty hasn't seen as much use.

My 'updates'...

-I got to tag along on Ultimate Adventure 2014 with a good friend of mine.



https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...l#post26666082

-Followed up about a month later with my "ultimate selling my house and moving my family cross country adventure". (My wife and kids were in the other car= good relaxing trip for me but my wife wasn't real happy about it). And yes, I can and did put two car seats in the front of my standard cab stick shift truck



-Followed up 2 weeks later with a 10 day canoe trip into Quetico with my dad and a friend. (He had a few minor equipment failures, but not bad for being 76.)



Followed up by a week trip back to the northeast.

Then we moved into a rental house and the moving truck crashed into the neighbors house. This is a good way to meet the neighbors.



We've just been getting into the swing of things back here in the Pacific Northwest. I've got a friend that is pretty active with a local 4x club (quadrapaws). I've been invited to go out on a number of trips but just haven't had the time. Anyway, things are going great, but I think it's going to be awhile before I have a useable garage again. I am hoping to find time to tinker with a new carburetor setup one of these days.
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Old 11-29-2014, 03:51 PM   #457 (permalink)
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Don't forget you have to be ready for a Rubicon trip in YOUR flatty in the summer/fall of 2015!
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:03 PM   #458 (permalink)
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They take stock flattys over the rubicon all the time. It sure would be nice to have some better seats though. And a better steering, suspension, axles, brakes, engine, tcase, prob a new transmission to go with the new tcase and engine, new fuel system, a real roll cage, bigger tires, might as well build a new frame and get an MB body for it... Tell you what, I'll have some new seats drop shipped to your house, if you can take care of the rest.
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:06 PM   #459 (permalink)
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They take stock flattys over the rubicon all the time. It sure would be nice to have some better seats though. And a better steering, suspension, axles, brakes, engine, tcase, prob a new transmission to go with the new tcase and engine, new fuel system, a real roll cage, bigger tires, might as well build a new frame and get an MB body for it... Tell you what, I'll have some new seats drop shipped to your house, if you can take care of the rest.
I might work cheap, but I don't work free

I think you will be ok on the trip. We won't be in a hurry. You have a 4spd, winch, and a rear locker.....should be easy!
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:59 PM   #460 (permalink)
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I finally had a chance to take my flatty out on a trail yesterday. I met up with Quadrapaws down at a local trail system in Tahuya state forest. The trails aren't real tough but still kinda fun.

I had a good day; the new granny gear and rear locker both work great. I had to try to find stuff where I actually needed either, but they worked nicely when needed. My flatty still won't chug over big rocks at a complete idle, but, I found that bumping the hand throttle up a few hundred RPM and then pulling the choke until I was around 10-12:1 AFR seemed to help quite a lot. The locker worked flawlessly.

Some other folks there took some videos; I didn't get much other than this photo of my flatty with three tires in the air and resting on my clutch/brake pivot. It's a weird sensation when the pedals lock up and won't move like that..

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Old 05-04-2015, 05:57 PM   #461 (permalink)
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Your willys looks great out on the trails! Always fun to get out on an adventure. No matter how thought the trails are. Quick question. Why do you pull the choke to get over obstacles?? You jeep runs better rich?
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:27 PM   #462 (permalink)
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A couple summers ago I spent a fair bit of time time cleaning, measuring, tuning and fiddling with the original carburetor to get everything running right. I came across a really neat tech manual written back in the late 40's or early 50's on the Carter WO and in that, it actually said the designed air fuel ratio at idle is something like 10:1.

When I tuned it, I found it ran best a little leaner than that, in the 12:1 range (don't remember exactly). In playing with things, going richer (to a point) seemed to improve the off idle stall resistance. At one point I got it running well enough that I could take off from a stop in 3rd (as in 1:1 high gear). Over the last two summers it has gone downhill a bit, and then moving from 2000 ft elevation to... 200 ft? didn't help much and I haven't adjusted anything since the move.

As it sits now I think I'm idling at around 13:1. When I bump the idle up a bit, it is solidly above 13, maybe even 14:1. So adding some choke richens it up and seemed to help.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:23 PM   #463 (permalink)
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Flipping the motor back over, here you can see everything buttoned up and ready to go. Got my rear main on correctly (finally), oil pickup mounted, oil pump mounted (external BTW), tripple checked to make certain that every single oil galley plug is in place...


Oil pan on


A few notes I wanted to add about the oil pump (grey/silver thing on the side of the block). There are two versions, one for the timing gear (most civillian) and one for the timing chain engines (all MB/GPW). The difference is that the camshaft spins the other way on those, and the gear on the camshaft and oil pump are different. As a result, the distributor actually spins the same direction for both models, but the two oil pump (gears) are different and not compatible. I found this out the hard way, my first oil pump was for the other style. This oil pump, btw is a Melling.

I have some more oiling system tech on the way, I'll take care of that in the next post.
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A few other finishing touches...

Rebuilt the fuel pump (fun little rebuild). I would really like to find a glass site bowl for this...



Cleaned up the distributor. I need to actually rebuild this with new bearings and a Pertronix pickup. As another option I see that Omix Ada now has an all new electronic distributor, and it actually costs about the same as a retrofit kit for my old dist. I'm a little wary of an Omix dist.... any thoughts?



Since there's no drive gear on this (it is driven by the oil pump) it wouldn't be that hard to maybe change to an completely different dist. It has me wondering what it would take to do a GM HEI. This one spins counterclockwise, I think the GM's are the other way...
Very nice build thread. Lots of good, useful info I've learned.

One quick question, if you're still monitoring posts on this thread, is; do you need to pull the distributor (as it's driven off the oil pump) in order to remove the oil pump? I've got to replace the pump in my engine... or, find the mysterious reason I've got 0 pressure.

Funny part; look all over the Web for info, and find the info I want on a site I already visit, from a guy, whom lives in my same country, probably on 10 miles from my house.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:20 PM   #464 (permalink)
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Well as far as I know you should be able to pull the oil pump without touching the distributor. When you put it back in you will have to be careful to line things back up keeping in mind the oil pump gear will turn a bit as you slide the oil pump in.

When I changed my distributor a few years ago I found the original rusted in the block and pulled the oil pump hoping that pushing on the dist from the oil pump end might help. (It didn't but the oil pump came out fine).

Funny about the location, I've had stranger things happen. Like once I called a friend just to chat, hadn't talked to him in quite awhile. He lived in the SW and I lived in PA at the time. I mention offhandedly that I was flying out to Kauai in a month and find out he is too, and staying just a few blocks from me. Had I not called I thought boy that would have been crazy to just bump into him on a walk, as the path we like to walk ran right by his place.
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:15 AM   #465 (permalink)
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Well as far as I know you should be able to pull the oil pump without touching the distributor. When you put it back in you will have to be careful to line things back up keeping in mind the oil pump gear will turn a bit as you slide the oil pump in.

When I changed my distributor a few years ago I found the original rusted in the block and pulled the oil pump hoping that pushing on the dist from the oil pump end might help. (It didn't but the oil pump came out fine).

Funny about the location, I've had stranger things happen. Like once I called a friend just to chat, hadn't talked to him in quite awhile. He lived in the SW and I lived in PA at the time. I mention offhandedly that I was flying out to Kauai in a month and find out he is too, and staying just a few blocks from me. Had I not called I thought boy that would have been crazy to just bump into him on a walk, as the path we like to walk ran right by his place.
Well you can remove and replace the oil pump without pulling the distributor, however, it seems all but impossible to align the distributor gear with the oil pump slot, while installing the oil pump. I finally just moved the rotor shaft to align everything. This, of course, means I need to adjust spark timing to compensate for the movement... and my distributor was also seized in the engine block. However, using an oil filter wrench on the distributor housing, and working it back and forth, lots of penetrating oil, and about an hour's work, it loosened up and I got my engine running again. Thanks for your help.

And to the engineer whom designed this engine; the location for the timing marks sucks.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:53 AM   #466 (permalink)
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And to the engineer whom designed this engine; the location for the timing marks sucks.
That's for sure!

A little late, but in my case I finally got my distributor loose by clamping a chain style vice grip on it and "tapping" it back and forth with a short heavy hammer. Glad you got it apart and back together. I'm pretty sure I have installed my oil pump with the dist in but maybe I'm just remembering things wrong or maybe I did have to turn it a bit to get the key to line up. In any case glad you got it.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:36 PM   #467 (permalink)
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I'll check the hoard. I'm sure i have a spare site glass or two for you. I'll post up if i find one.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:46 PM   #468 (permalink)
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Sounds like the timing on those old things was pretty much set it and forget it! I've encountered lots of seized things but luckily a distributor wasn't one of them.
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