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Old 10-21-2009, 09:11 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Frame 70% complete

Got myself some free time and worked on the frame for about 10 hours more, giving a total of about 15 hours into it so far. It's all ready to be welded up and painted, just need that extra 20 hours. Might get the welding done tomorrow which would be bitchen.

Here's before:




Cut away the horrible job left by one of the previous owners:



Grinder got made it me and took a tiny chunk off my finger:


And done:






What's left for the frame: Buy CJ tank and mount it, buy Saginaw steering box and make mount. I also need the close in the rear bumper, if my welds are good enough to not leak air I want to make the bumper so I can fill it with air for those "damn tire's flat" situations.
After this goes to Axles, which are the scout D44's, have to get the front re-tubed, but can mock up the rear. Install lockers, knuckles, etc. Then build a tie-rod and drag link.
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Last edited by 2003_ram; 10-21-2009 at 09:13 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Grinder got made it me and took a tiny chunk off my finger:
i think you ment mad not made and you might want to cut those finger nails
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I am doing pretty much the same thing. I used a waggy 44 and narrowed it. I am spring over and cut out and machined the high steer arms myself. I think I have some pics on my computer at work. I'll try and send them in the AM.
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:20 PM   #29 (permalink)
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i think you ment mad not made and you might want to cut those finger nails
I did, and long nails are more useful.

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I am doing pretty much the same thing. I used a waggy 44 and narrowed it. I am spring over and cut out and machined the high steer arms myself. I think I have some pics on my computer at work. I'll try and send them in the AM.
Awesome, sounds like a similar setup. I can't wait to get the axles and a rolling chassis on this thing again. Didn't get to weld anything today though, but cleaned up the engine which had some water in it (ouch!) but seems fine and looks good, just a few minor pieces to replace.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:23 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Got roughly 70% of the work done on the frame, about 10% more welding and 20% paint. MY welds may not be Uber-pretty, but you cannot EVER break them. We had to move 2 spring perches, driver front/rear. The idiot that did the orginal work did not know how to set up a suspension, they were crooked and tilted.









And got the MB grill and M38 hood. The hood (and grill) both have the original paint under all the other coats, anybody know where the military serial number was on the M38's?



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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:27 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Regardless of your claim that the welds won't break, it looks like you're getting zero penetration with that shot of the shackle hanger. You definitely don't have enough heat going into the weld. I'd grind it out and try again if it were mine.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:44 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Regardless of your claim that the welds won't break, it looks like you're getting zero penetration with that shot of the shackle hanger. You definitely don't have enough heat going into the weld. I'd grind it out and try again if it were mine.
The picture isn't a good one, I'll do a double take, but that was at D power on the weld, E just burns through. It melted the spring hanger into the frame, I think it's okay. I will double check and re-do like you said if not though.

Thanks for the input CSP.
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:46 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Haven't updated for awhile, so here are some pics of the progress.

Primed:


Half painted:


painted, came out super nice:



front axle mock up:


Hmm, well I'll be damned, may be able to run just the YJ springs alone, look at the clearance (I would give maybe 1-2" down with the engine/trans/body).



time to get the rear axles on, so I took some 1.5x1/4" steel and cut it to length, these go on the front, this is just mock up so I didn't really give much.

Drilled 1/2" holes
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:47 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Rear axle on:


Lined everything up, contrary to what I thought I only need to cut the long tube 1.5-2", awesome, saves time and money!!!



And painted the shackles:
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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you may want 1/2" longer shackels than that and you deff. want to ad a cneter tube to em to stop em from twisting in half
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:34 PM   #36 (permalink)
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you may want 1/2" longer shackels than that and you deff. want to ad a cneter tube to em to stop em from twisting in half
Yeah definitely agree on the center piece in the shackle. And reason I was trying to keep them short was to minimize the play in the steering up front.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:07 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Did the math on the front end and it's going to get the ARB, and axle cutting work done Wensday. I can't do the cutting myself because of the tools involved..... Meaning, I don't got em'!
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:16 AM   #38 (permalink)
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You don't have a 4.5" grinder? Or are you referring to the resplining?

Last edited by fishotro; 11-17-2009 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:58 AM   #39 (permalink)
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You don't have a 4.5" grinder? Or are you referring to the resplining?
One, I don't believe I have the experience to heat the knuckle and weld it to the tube. And two, I have to lengthen the short side, and I have to get a bigger tube, sleeve it, and run it that way. I just don't have the tools on hand right now to do such as thing.
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:41 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Lined everything up, contrary to what I thought I only need to cut the long tube 1.5-2", awesome, saves time and money!!!
If you're using the cast in perch on the passenger side of that axle and you're wanting it centered under the frame you need more than 1.5-2" off of it.

CJ frame rails are 27.5" apart, on center. Scout 44s perches are 31.5" apart. That's 2" wider per side, keeping it centered. You knock 4" off the long side, move the passenger side inward 2" and you're then centered with the passenger side perch left in the stock location.
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:50 PM   #41 (permalink)
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If you're using the cast in perch on the passenger side of that axle and you're wanting it centered under the frame you need more than 1.5-2" off of it.

CJ frame rails are 27.5" apart, on center. Scout 44s perches are 31.5" apart. That's 2" wider per side, keeping it centered. You knock 4" off the long side, move the passenger side inward 2" and you're then centered with the passenger side perch left in the stock location.
Yeah, ended up figuring that out the day after that post. I have to add to the axle on the short side 2", and cut the long 2".
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:24 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Why not just outboard the spring mounts and be done with it then?

You could do it yourself and never have to worry about custom axleshafts, especially if you break one in the middle of nowhere.
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Old 11-19-2009, 01:26 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Why not just outboard the spring mounts and be done with it then?

You could do it yourself and never have to worry about custom axleshafts, especially if you break one in the middle of nowhere.
That was an option I was considering, but I am doubting that I will break a Chromo shaft on a 35" bogger. That's actually the option I would like most in means of it being much easier. But... I don't like the look of outboarded springs especially on a Flatty (not to mention we are trying to make it look as much as stock as we can without making it a weak jeep). It's kind of a take some loose some situation.
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[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:17 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I run a '71 Jeepster with Scout AWD axles under it. It has about 7" of lift and sits on 35s. I ended up outboarding the front springs(rears on a commando allready are)

Before i did the swap i had to have a sway bar to be able to drive down the road safely, the bitch would duck and dive with no warning. After outboarding the spring and having wider axles it drives down the road smooth as a new car. With no sway bar needed.

Also did the disc brake conversion in the front, Im not noticing much of a gain in stopping power. A pair of 11" drums on the front gave me the same performance.
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:23 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Okay, I picked up all the chevy axle parts I needed. I didn't get the stub shafts because I am going to go chromos. All I need is the ford hub and warn locking hub. I am going to use the scout rotor/caliper. Picked up all the stuff in the picture for $60. Not bad, I have seen flatop knuckles alone go for more. Also, I will NOT be using the scout housing, I'll sell it and use the chevy housing since I only have to cut each end, instead on lengthening one.

Awesome!





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[I]
“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]

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Old 11-23-2009, 11:52 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Those spindles are longer than the Scout spindles, so be sure that the caliper and rotor line up with each other before assuming that they will.

The mounting face of the rotor is further away from the center of the axle because of the longer spindles.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:11 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Those spindles are longer than the Scout spindles, so be sure that the caliper and rotor line up with each other before assuming that they will.

The mounting face of the rotor is further away from the center of the axle because of the longer spindles.
Ah I see, never would have crossed my mind! I might be able to get the ford hubs today, when I get them I could try and see if the scout stuff will work, or just go ahead and get the Ford rotors while I'm at it?

Also, I am going to the junkyard to get more chevy stuff, anyway to tell what calipers I need?
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:02 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Personally, as cheap as the Ford wheelbearing hubs/rotors are brand new from the parts store, that's the route I'd take. Run em with chevy calipers (stick with '74-78 so they aren't metric) and chevy caliper stands and you don't have to think about clearance.

Replacement parts are cheaper in the future as well.
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:14 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Okay awesome, I'll put the order in at the parts store. So, just to carlify, it's like this:

1974-1978 Chevy Calipers off the same truck the axle was pulled from
And buy new rotors/hubs for a (maybe 1980?) Ford F-150 with a 5 5.5 pattern
And then of course the warn locking hubs for the 19 spline shaft

I'll go ahead and do that, going camping over Turkey Day and have to get our current wheeler running so can't tackle this until late Monday. Thanks for the help CSP.
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:59 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Haven't updates this sucker for a long time!

Okay well a change of plans again..... That chevy housing I got was CRAPPY. Cracked diff under the greese, welds everywhere, just crap. I picked up another chevy housing in mint shape and superwinch lockouts for a song, and am using that instead with the knuckles off my junkyard axle.

I also decided to box the center section of the frame using 12 gauge steel, same stuff the frames made out of which is the only way your supposd to do it. The front I couldn't help because it came like that so all I could do was improve upon it. I'll box the center section and stitch weld it in. And on other news I drew up a rough picture of what this beast should looke like when finished, all to scale, with the cage design I am planning on using for it. Cage will by 1 3/4" DOM, grill hoop will be 1 1/4" DOM. I don't have any fancy software so I do it by hand, here it is:



That's with 35x16 Bogger which is what I hope to find for a steal by the time I get to that point and sell the 33's. I also had pre-assembled the front axle with the ford hubs/rotors/etc. Everything works and is good to go.

I also picked up a truck load of original MB parts in the past month, a few sets of fenders, a PERFECT hood with the markings still on it, including the star, and Lee (BB1 on the forum) gave me some good tool box doors for the tub, awesome! Thanks Lee!
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“If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”[/I] - John Wooden [B]RIP[/B]
[I]"Let every man have a pistol, instead of one man have a tank."[/I]

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