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Old 03-17-2010, 08:48 AM   #26 (permalink)
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looks good bud
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:13 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Well, I decided to remove the shock brackets today. Only took a little bit. Other than that i didn't really get a chance to do anything. I spent the rest of the day getting the FJ finished up so that the customer could pick it up. I also had to spend a few hours trying to get my buddies 53 Willys running better, it still isn't running correctly after the blower install... Im running out of ideas on that one.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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So... who do I need to talk to about getting a quote on some ORIs???
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
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So, I guess nobody sell them on here??? I thought I might be able to get a quote...

Anyway... I went the other evening to see if I could get some tube so I could start my cage work, but the only round tube they had was 1.5" 16 ga tube, which is only good for exhaust tube lol. I can sometimes get what I need from this disount supplier, but you never know what they are going to have and it changes on a day to day basis. Im gonna go again tomorrow and see what they have.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:55 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Well, its been a week or so since I've posted any updates. Work has been crazy! Crazy, but Good! I never was able to get any of the correct material from my discount supplier, so yesterday I went and bought 200 ft of 1 3/4 tube, and 140 ft of 1 1/2. Hopefully this afternoon and tomorrow (its my b-day so the shop will be closed and I will be working on my stuff! lol) I will be able to get started. Probably won't be too exciting, but maybe I can get the engine, trans, t-case all put into the new frame. Unfortunately there is an issue with the t-case, so I really need to pull it apart and see why it is stuck in low range. It is going to slow me down a bit, but If I fix the problem now, I shoudn't have to pull it back out. But then again... we will see. I will need to take it apart for paint. So to speed up the fabrication process I may just go ahead and put it all in as is. Then I can fix the t-case while paint is drying lol.
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Well, I decided to get some work done today, so I broke out some tube and the chop saw and cut everything for the boat sides. I was able to finish them up, But Im not completely sure that they are at an acceptable height. They start at the bottom of the frame rail and go up at a 45* angle until they reach the width of the body (57 3/4"). The bottom of the frame is roughly 25" from the ground, and the top of the tube (the top tube is 1 1/2" x 3" x 1/8" wall) at the top of the boat side is 41" off the ground. Im slightly concerned... I was shooting for about 36, but at 45* that just wasn't going to be possible. The only 2 options I have are to cut it all off and start over using a shallower angle on the support tubes, or I could cut the support tubes down shorter and use a wider top tube such as an 8x2. What do you guys think? Keep in mind that I am only going to be running 38" tires on this due to axle selection and the fact that I just bought them brand new last year and they have only been on 5 or 6 rides.

Let me know what your opinions are...







Oh, and by the way, there are actually 5 supports per side. I had to cut off the front spring hangers before I could weld on the front supports.

And on another side note, I ordered my ORI struts last week. 18s for the front, 14s for the rear.

Last edited by Team Willys; 04-01-2010 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:26 AM   #32 (permalink)
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first thought was "holy mess" they look really tall, but im trying to imagine the body around it and seats and everything too(which i tend to visualize you sitting basically on the frame and i know thats not right). i need to come see it in person to get a better perspective

kind of thought they would be lower than that though.... will there be any sides other than boat sides after its done?
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:17 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I would put money that those need to be redone.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:19 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I would put money that those need to be redone.
i agree

i dont' have a great picture, but mine are even with the body and then have a second hoop that acts as a step. They are angled upward slightly from the frame.



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Old 04-02-2010, 12:45 PM   #35 (permalink)
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i think this is what you're going for except with a stubbier front for approach angle right? the sides will work the way they are i just think it will be a bitch to get into

heres a link from another build on here

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Old 04-02-2010, 01:16 PM   #36 (permalink)
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i agree

i dont' have a great picture, but mine are even with the body and then have a second hoop that acts as a step. They are angled upward slightly from the frame.



No, Im not going for sliders, which is what you have. I am doing full blown boat sides.

I got the engine pulled out of the Willys this morning. I am kinda tired or I would be out there working on getting the engine in place right now. I want there to only be like 3" from the top of the boatside to the bottom of the "door" opening. Initial measurements are looking good... but I know more once I get the engine mounted up, I want the "body" down as low as possible, but I also want a flat belly skid, and the hood has to be able to shut. So... that is the next step I guess. Get the engine in and do some more measuring.

Doug... that Jeep is close to what Im going for... although for some reason I don't really like that one. Maybe the front just looks to short with the windshield up like that? I am going to straighten out the legs on mine some to get it to lay back a bit. Then the cage will follow that angle. I have it all in my head, but sometimes its a bitch to take it from the mental picture and turn it into reality.
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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yeah, i know you were going for boat sides, but i was trying to give you a perspective on the body and angle of the tube from my sliders. A little more angle on mine, some plate and they are boat sides.

hope it works out...
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:41 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Well, I got the engine and trans positioned where I (think I) want it. Nothing hangs down below the frame rails at all, so that will allow me to have a completely flat belly skid just like I wanted. Good news is that I think the boat sides are actually going to be at an acceptable height... still not 100% positive as I haven't got the grille up there yet, but with the drivetrain sitting where it is, the top of the shifter hole in the trans is just below the height of the top of the boatside. So... that seems about right. Im gonna keep on trucking with it. Once I get the mounts finished up and the grille at an acceptable height, I will be able to do some measuring to find out for sure. If they are too high, I will cut the support tubes shorter and use a wider top tube.
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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make sure you double check your drive shaft angles, before you weld your mounts solid. I had to play with my angles (intake manifold, firewall, front , and rear transfer case yokes) don't forget about the steering. As for going with the flatbelly my np205/sm465 was to long to get the the drive shaft angle to <20*. I am now going with a novak adapter and a dana 300, to shorten it up. I was going to make my own engine mounts, but then I found a universal chevy mount new for $60. It was very easy.



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Old 04-03-2010, 09:09 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice... Im pretty sure it will be just fine though b/c the 53 we built is just as high and has a shorter wheel base and he has no problems. I am actually considering shortening the frame some... or lengthening the hood. about 6". I have been looking a lot at this thread: https://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...=project+sarge ,and I am afraid it looks disproportional. Like, the front is too short and the rest of the jeep is too long. Obviously making a Willys hood isn't a big deal so that is an option. Currently the 4.3 is tight... and the fan was in front of the radiator. I would rather have it set up as a puller though, so if I added 6" to the hood, I could move the engine back about 4 ", which would allow me to have more room under the hood, and make the whole thing look better.

I really need your advice on this one... and quick. I have got the mounts tacked to the frame, so if I decide on a new longer hood, I need to move the engine back now while its easier to do lol.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So... this weekend was fairly productive. I left for Nashville on Friday night for some partying, and was in M'boro all day Saturday for some business stuff, and today I skipped out on all the Easter stuff (although I did put the radio on a church service station ) and worked on the Jeep some more. So, since the last real update (on Thursday) I was able to pull the engine out of the Willys and get new mounts made up for the buggy. I did decide on extending the hood and fenders, but decided 4" would probably be a better length. So this morning I cut the welds, moved the mounts back 2" and re-welded them. I also made the crossmember for the trans and t-case and got that mounted up as well. I like the new design better... the last crossmember had to be removed if you wanted to pull the t-case, but this one allows the t-case to be removed after it's all unbolted, but it will still support the trans with the t-case out. I also finallt bent the first piece of tube and got the grille mounted up.

Enough chit chat, here are the pics.

Engine out:





Kinda sitting where I want it in the new frame:



New crossmember (old one in the back ground):



Bending up grille hoop:





Hoop welded on and grille mounted:





All in all, not too bad. Next step is to get the cowl mounted and then go from there. Once the cowl is on I will be able to build the front tube fenders, mount the seats, and then start on the cage! Woo hoo!
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:22 PM   #42 (permalink)
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looks real good tyler! cant wait to see this thing finished up!
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:26 AM   #43 (permalink)
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i mean i got faith in you, but doesnt that grill look a bit high off the frame??

nice to see things are coming along though, i like how the grill hoop follows the lines really well.
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:44 AM   #44 (permalink)
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The grill looks like it has about a 6" body lift.
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:16 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Agreed with Jay, drop the engine about 4" and the grill about 4" and you will get your body lines to match a lot better. For reference, my crank center-line is almost centered with the height of my front frame rails.

Just looking at this build, it looks like you are trying to only put the body on the frame once and not have to remove it. That is definitely not going to work. I would cut the boatsides off, cut the engine out and put the body on the frame FIRST, and as low as possible. After you have it mounted, you can start to size more permanent things like the grill hoop, fenders, cage etc...Then remove the body for finish welding and paint.

The way you're doing this looks hacked.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:53 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Agreed with Jay, drop the engine about 4" and the grill about 4" and you will get your body lines to match a lot better. For reference, my crank center-line is almost centered with the height of my front frame rails.

Just looking at this build, it looks like you are trying to only put the body on the frame once and not have to remove it. That is definitely not going to work. I would cut the boatsides off, cut the engine out and put the body on the frame FIRST, and as low as possible. After you have it mounted, you can start to size more permanent things like the grill hoop, fenders, cage etc...Then remove the body for finish welding and paint.

The way you're doing this looks hacked.
Agreed, that grill is WAY too high.
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:13 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I agree with everyone else that the grill is way to high. I also gotta second the suggestion to get the body mounted and then work on motor placement. I know it's hard to get the larger motors to fit in there but it can be done and not look hack. I'm doing it myself with a 88 bronco 5.0 motor into a 42 MB. Spend more time on getting the body down to where it should be.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:53 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Tell you guys what... if you can figure out how to drop the engine and the rest of the drive train down enough to to lower the hood/grille and still keep the drive train above the bottom of the frame, I'll give you a fucking cookie! Guys, have you not read my posts? Part of the point of this was to enable me to have the bottom of the jeep flat. I don't want anything below the frame rails. If this were a 3B body, the hood would be 4" taller, and it would allow me to have the mounting point of the grille 4" lower and still keep the drive train up high. But it's not is it? Right now, I have it as low as I possibly can and still have it flat bottomed. I know the grille looks high, and I too agree that it doesn't look the best right nowI. However, I will be adding the winch and a bumper to the front, and I can hide the gap with that. One more thing, how come when I ask you guys for an opinion, such as whether or not to extend the the hood, you never say a damn word, but when I don't ask your opinion, you blast it to me? Freakin read guys, most of your questions have been answered, so don't just look at the pics and then start flaming... I promise the grille will look fine once the front is done.

Ford Facist and Rooney, read! There is no body. For the umteen thousandth time, this is not a Willys, it is a tube buggy that will have sheet metal skins to make it look like a willys. functionality is key over looks. If I build the "body" and then try to get the engine in and above the bottom of the frame, what happens if it's too low? I would have to redo the entire thing. Im not doing it. Guys, this aint my first rodeo. I welcome suggestions, but you guys are not reading... so the suggestions are going against the key things I am going for.
Ok, so, can I continue now?

Today was a work day again, so I had some stuff I had to do for customer vehicles. did some shocks and a new steering stabilizer on a cherokee, and then did a gear install on a D44. Once those were done, I was able to continue working on my stuff for a while.

It was a pretty successful afternoon, I was able to finish removing the front clip and cowl off of the Willys, which didn't take too long. Once that was off, I stripped it down to just the sheet metal (removed wiring, guages, etc) and modified it so that it can be mounted to some tube. Then I got started making the front tube fenders. I decided to go ahead and make them because I needed them on before I could mount the cowl.

So here are some pictures:

Front clip off:





Broke out Mr. Miller and started cutting:



Off it came:



The beginning of the front tube fenders:



And the fenders tacked on:





Thats all I got for now, I forgot to take pictures of the cowl/dash assembly after I got it cut out and modified, but I will do that tomorrow evening and post them up with tomorrow's update.

Last edited by Team Willys; 04-05-2010 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Very interested in seeing how this turn out. Are you going to have the same door opening body lines as the oringinal willy's and have the boat side come to the bottom of the openings or is the body line going to go straight across without a door opening? Keep doing your own thing, and take all advice, or criticism with a gran of salt.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:58 PM   #50 (permalink)
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It will have the a very similar shape to the original Willys door opening. It will be slightly longer though, and the boat side wont be the top of the door... The body will be 3 inches tall (instead of 10). So, the bottom of the door opening will be 3 inches above the top of the boat side.
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