What Axles to Upgrade a Series IIa? Toyota? - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Land Rover
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-05-2015, 06:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 56837
Posts: 47
e-mail sent
captcory is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-06-2015, 07:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Member # 510146
Posts: 46
I have found that the best way to brake stuff on these trucks is running too big of a tire and pushing them too hard. Running something like a 245/75-16 is about right for them stock. It wont kill what little acceleration you have, they put less stress on everything, and they are much easier to stop than bigger tires.

Make sure the braking system is 100% and you keep them adjusted (manual adjusters on the backing plate) and you should be fine. Make sure you carry spares (half shafts, points, condensor, cover plate for the trans for when the OD blows up...) and you should never brake anything. On one trip we did 15,000 miles in South America in a very heavy Ser II 109" and never broke anything, they are great trucks. Run it and enjoy it!
ArlowCT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 01-26-2015, 03:43 AM   #28 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Junkyddog11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 59532
Location: Maine
Posts: 529
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
Really? Cuz the stock brakes suck donkey balls.
Coming out with that statement is just like admitting that you shouldn't really pick up a wrench and if you do you should definitely not touch anything with it.
__________________
[FONT="Arial Narrow"][I][/I][/FONT]
Matt Browne
Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?
'61 88" IIA 2.5na "Soiled"
'89 RRC 300 Tdi 5spd "Swampslut"
'95 RRC LWB 300 Tdi auto

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.....expansion complete. Now, the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine....is also the biggest.
Junkyddog11 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 01-27-2015, 09:28 AM   #29 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17378
Location: Yuppyville
Posts: 2,420
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
Really? Cuz the stock brakes suck donkey balls.
There is almost nothing "Rover" left in drivetrain of either of my trucks, but I left the original drum brakes in both of them. Adjusted properly they're just fine. Don't understand all the hype of disc brakes, but if you want to spend $2k+ an axle for them, knock yourself out.
__________________
Lucas trucks are usually dead simple to figure out, there aren't many things to go wrong with them.
Mercedesrover is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-27-2015, 10:23 AM   #30 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20109
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercedesrover View Post
...but if you want to spend $2k+ an axle for them, knock yourself out.
$1200. No need to exaggerate.
__________________
1991 D90 ex-MOD
red90rover is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2015, 03:08 AM   #31 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Junkyddog11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 59532
Location: Maine
Posts: 529
Quote:
Originally Posted by red90rover View Post
$1200. No need to exaggerate.
After the amount of them that I have actually converted, Id have to say that you are under exaggerating, and Jim is very much closer. In a perfect world maybe, but its never that simple.
__________________
[FONT="Arial Narrow"][I][/I][/FONT]
Matt Browne
Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?
'61 88" IIA 2.5na "Soiled"
'89 RRC 300 Tdi 5spd "Swampslut"
'95 RRC LWB 300 Tdi auto

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.....expansion complete. Now, the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine....is also the biggest.
Junkyddog11 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2015, 07:16 AM   #32 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20109
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkyddog11 View Post
After the amount of them that I have actually converted, Id have to say that you are under exaggerating, and Jim is very much closer. In a perfect world maybe, but its never that simple.
Rocky Mountain Products, Parabolic Springs, Shackle Kits, Shock Absorber Kits
Quote:
The kit sells for $1189.00 USD
Off the shelf, bolt in kit..... $1200 plus shipping + $100 if you want them to install new bearings. GM calipers, rotors and pads. No idea what you guys are doing..
__________________
1991 D90 ex-MOD

Last edited by red90rover; 01-29-2015 at 10:07 AM.
red90rover is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2015, 01:03 PM   #33 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Member # 13395
Location: Sunny
Posts: 1,895
Quote:
Originally Posted by red90rover View Post
Rocky Mountain Products, Parabolic Springs, Shackle Kits, Shock Absorber Kits

Off the shelf, bolt in kit..... $1200 plus shipping + $100 if you want them to install new bearings. GM calipers, rotors and pads. No idea what you guys are doing..
Sweet, custom crappy rotors for life and pads and calipers off a Lumina, what's not to like?

Edit: From TAW's writeup:

"These components were used on high performance models of the Chevy Lumina, Monte Carlo, Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Buick Regal. They recommend telling your part dealer that you need parts for a 2001 Chevy Lumina."

Nice. I want that.

Edit again. I went digging for the caliper bore info for these things. The Lumina parts have two 42mm bore pistons. Regular defenders have 4X46mm bore. The OEM defender rear has a 41mm bore (2 pistons).
__________________
1994 FZJ80 with Mitsubishi 4D3 power
1980 Land-Rover crew cab with 6BT power

Last edited by HandBuilt; 01-29-2015 at 01:22 PM.
HandBuilt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #34 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Member # 42753
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,719
Drum brakes are like gremlins. They're great if you never get them wet.

And don't feed them after midnight.
Dougal is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2015, 09:12 AM   #35 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20109
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by HandBuilt View Post
Sweet, custom crappy rotors for life and pads and calipers off a Lumina, what's not to like?

Edit: From TAW's writeup:

"These components were used on high performance models of the Chevy Lumina, Monte Carlo, Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Buick Regal. They recommend telling your part dealer that you need parts for a 2001 Chevy Lumina."

Nice. I want that.

Edit again. I went digging for the caliper bore info for these things. The Lumina parts have two 42mm bore pistons. Regular defenders have 4X46mm bore. The OEM defender rear has a 41mm bore (2 pistons).
The only custom bit is turning out the center bore, which is pretty simple.

It is 2 pistons, but because it is a floating caliper, the force on the rotor is the same as a fixed four piston caliper. Rover pistons come in 41 and 46 mm, so these would brake similar to the smaller piston units.

The 42 mm pistons have around 84% the clamping pressure of the 46 mm.
__________________
1991 D90 ex-MOD

Last edited by red90rover; 02-02-2015 at 09:31 AM.
red90rover is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2015, 12:50 PM   #36 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Member # 13395
Location: Sunny
Posts: 1,895


Aw yeah!
__________________
1994 FZJ80 with Mitsubishi 4D3 power
1980 Land-Rover crew cab with 6BT power
HandBuilt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2015, 02:27 PM   #37 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Member # 13395
Location: Sunny
Posts: 1,895
Just to clarify:



So you have to bore out the center and re-index a new pattern. The pic is from TAW's writeup.
__________________
1994 FZJ80 with Mitsubishi 4D3 power
1980 Land-Rover crew cab with 6BT power
HandBuilt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-08-2015, 01:41 AM   #38 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Member # 212466
Location: Scotland
Posts: 571
The Wild Industries kit has plenty going for it.
Utilises defender discs, pads and callipers.

Wild Industries
__________________
Proudly supporting Black Jewish Gays since 2005.
DasLandRoverMan is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-09-2015, 08:05 AM   #39 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 175908
Location: Lake Villa, IL
Posts: 404
Quote:
Originally Posted by HandBuilt View Post
Just to clarify:



So you have to bore out the center and re-index a new pattern. The pic is from TAW's writeup.
There were some guys on D90 Source talking about this. All I can say is WTF Seriously!!!! That seems like a giant pain in the ass. Rotors are wear items and need to be replaced. Who the hell wants to have rotors specially machined every time you need to change them???
fishEH is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2019, 08:24 AM   #40 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Member # 827538
Posts: 2
I have a '68 109 that I relocated from Ireland to Arizona, I upgraded my power train from the 2.25 diesel to an LS1 5.3 out of an '05 Tahoe coupled to a 4L60 transmission and a customForbyn Brothers transfer case. I kept my semi-original axles (original 10 spline front axle & Salisbury from a '73 MOD 109). I put almost 10K miles on the upgrade before I had the rear hub bolts shear, and at that time I found out that I also snapped my front axle. I have no idea when I would have snapped the front axle as I hadn't used the 4WD in a while.

All I did was replace the front axle shaft, drilled out the snapped bolts in the rear, and upsized the bolt and changed them from grade 5 to grade 8. I am just rolling over 15K miles on the upgrade and am loving it. My Landy is my daily driver.

Here are my upgrades since relocating from Ireland:
1. '05 5.3L engine out of a Chevy Tahoe with a 4L60 automatic transmission with a Forbyn Bros. transfer case.
2. Hydroboost (power brakes ) for the brakes.
3. Power steering from a P38 Range Rover.
(Handles like a sports car and stops on a dime, okay a really big dime.)
4. Dual air conditioning (front and back). It's an Arizona Landy now, so AC is not an option.
5. Three fuel tanks. (Original MOD fuel tanks under the driver's and passenger's seat along with the 18 gallon rear tank. The two front tanks are tied together and the rear tank is separate with a GM fuel tank switch to switch from back to front.
6. Dakota Digital Gauge console, so all of the engine monitoring can be used from the computer.
7. LED headlights and running lights. I still have to upgrade to LED my reverse lights.
From the outside, she looks pretty stock aside from the 2" shackle lift I took from the '73 MOD 109 that I stripped for parts. And the LED lights.
magician2000 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-20-2019, 04:32 AM   #41 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Member # 43371
Location: Toontown
Posts: 633
Is it grey-ish by any chance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by magician2000 View Post
I have a '68 109

From the outside, she looks pretty stock
__________________
"Trapped in time. Surrounded by evil. Low on gas."

Custom car-toons >
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rockbuggies welcome!
Michele is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.