Pipe Cap diff covers - to pre-stress or not to pre-stress? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pipe Cap diff covers - to pre-stress or not to pre-stress?

Hi all,

Firstly, I have searched

I've been planning to do this to my Classic for a while, but when a mate decided to chisel his rear diff pan off to remove the broken parts of the diff centre (rather than pulling the axles out...), the idea was forced to come to fruition somewhat sooner than planned.

I'll be doing it as in this thread https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-...r-writeup.html, except I'll probably drill and tap the cover rather than weld in a bung.

The main question is this - do I need to pre-stress the housing to stop it from warping? I'll do the work with the old 3rd bolted in, to try and prevent the pumpkin warping, but having half an idea of my way around a welder, I know that with too much heat I'll turn the whole thing into a bloody heavy banana.

If I was to stitch weld it, let it cool and then come in and fill the gaps, would that be good enough? I'm thinking yes, but how have you guys done it?

Cheers
Will
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Howdy

i prestressed my diff over a length of heavy ibeam with a straight edge mounted to each swivel ball mounting flange to gauge movement .(measure between the 2)
Some big f clamps were all that was needed to flex the housing in the needed direction.

Tack the cover on in multiple locations let cool and then fully weld using wet rags strategically placed to absorb the heat .

ps. the housings can be straightened in a shop press if needed they are rather flimsy

cheers wmd
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Only on PBB would 1/4" be considered flimsy.

I've done several and never gave it a thought.

Now that I think about it, I'm sure that having the third bolted in probably makes it a lot less likely to move around.

Stitch, stitch, stitch, stitch.
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, good to get a few other opinions.

I'll be doing this one in the car, so I'm going to go with stitch welding and strategically placed wet rags.

When I do my front I'll have the housing out to overhaul it all anyway, so will fully weld it and straighten it on the marking off table/in the 40t press if need be.

Looks like I've been able to find the caps in Aus for about $24 each... so will hopefully have some by the end of the week.

Will take pics if I don't forget.

Cheers
Will
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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PT, what is the thickness of the bottom of the housing on the rear axle? I am wondering if when I do this (in about a month) if I should weld a piece of 3/16 to the bottom "flat" portion since it is the most likely to see the rocks as the axle is being drug over them.
is it worth reinforcing this portion?
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderrover View Post
PT, what is the thickness of the bottom of the housing on the rear axle? I am wondering if when I do this (in about a month) if I should weld a piece of 3/16 to the bottom "flat" portion since it is the most likely to see the rocks as the axle is being drug over them.
is it worth reinforcing this portion?
IIRC, it's about 1/4"

I'll measure one this evening if I remember.

It always shocks folks to find the tubes are as heavy as they are
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I drilled a rover housing a few years back and got 6-7mm thickness pretty much everywhere (except the cap). They were likely formed from 1/4" plate originally.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I measured 1/4" also. And I did not prestress the housing. I suspect its bent where the swivel ball flange meets the tube so Im due for some time with the shop press
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post
I measured 1/4" also. And I did not prestress the housing. I suspect its bent where the swivel ball flange meets the tube so Im due for some time with the shop press
Machining the face square may be a better option.
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Machining the face square may be a better option.
misalign all the spindle bolts?

Last edited by robertf03; 05-11-2016 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A slight angle of the flanges is less important than ensuring the flanges are on a common center with each other and the diff.
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by robertf03 View Post
misalign all the spindle bolts?
If it's enough angle to be concerned about the bolts then I'd hope whoever is doing it will look a bit harder for the problem first.

Taking a fraction of a degree off to square it up isn't going to cause any bolt issue.
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by red90rover View Post
A slight angle of the flanges is less important than ensuring the flanges are on a common center with each other and the diff.
I disagree. There is enough float in the splines to deal with some centre misalignment so that isn't an issue at all. Even 10mm out is going to work.

But angle on the spindle is a wheel alignment issue along with putting rotating bending loads straight onto the axle and flanges.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Depends if you are doing a front or rear

I did a rear so I couldn't re-align it in the track rod department.

Oh, and I prestressed it with a jack on the pinion chained back to about where the spring seats are. Welded 1/4 of the circle at a time.

Had it not been for a mate and us leaving the axle in the car, I'd have set it up in the press.

Pics will come later.
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