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Old 07-20-2017, 05:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Adding 'nodes' to frame for shock mount. Best way to do it?

So I'm in the process of building a 4 link in the back of my 110, using a 48" long trailing arm and a coilover/bypass combo. I've been trying to figure out the best way to mount them, and it seems like a couple of nodes sticking out of the frame with uprights welded to them is the most logical way to go about it. Looking at some off the shelf shock mount kits, it seems like 1.5" .120 is the flavor of choice.

In my mind, the safest way would be to have the node pass all the way through the frame for the most support. Is that unnecessary? Will I get enough strength welding just to the outside face of the frame?

I've already plated the entire length of the frame with 1/8", if that counts for anything.

As always, thanks for the insight.

Last edited by RoverAsh; 07-20-2017 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RoverAsh View Post
So I'm in the process of building a 4 link in the back of my 110, using a 48" long trailing arm and a coilover/bypass combo. I've been trying to figure out the best way to mount them, and it seems like a couple of nodes sticking out of the frame with uprights welded to them is the most logical way to go about it. Looking at some off the shelf shock mount kits, it seems like 1.5" .120 is the flavor of choice.

In my mind, the safest way would be to have the node pass all the way through the frame for the most support. Is that unnecessary? Will I get enough strength welding just to the outside face of the frame?

I've already plated the entire length of the frame with 1/8", if that counts for anything.

As always, thanks for the insight.
Couple of things...
48" link seem to be a little long for a 110. Did you wash the measurements of the truck thru a 4 link calculator?

How old is the frame?

Plating/fishscaling the mounting points will help, but I ripped a front panhard mount off my D2, and that was fishscaled with a 1/4" and it still tore from the frame. Also when I flopped it, I tore a front radius arm mount off, that too was fishscaled with 1/4' but it tore from the frame about 1" from the start if the plating

Most of the stuff I used from the various fabs shop is 1/4" plate. I used 2" .250 DOM for my links and those tweaked a little...

Food for thought
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1983 110 RHD Pick-up

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Old 07-21-2017, 05:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you're designing a true triangulated four link suspension it's important to remember where the forces are going to be applied. The four links should take all side loading of the vehicle. The only load on the shocks/springs mounts should be down (or up depending how you look at it) force. If they are going to be mounted close to the frame rail a simple mounting bracket attached to your plating should work. Chances are you'll need to mount them higher than the frame rail itself, this is when things like shock hoops work best. Plenty of companies out there make all kinds of different variations, I'm sure any one of them would work for your application.

On my 88 I did a three link with Panhard bar for the rear suspension. Are used shock hoops made out of .120 wall tubing to mount my air shocks to. They are mounted to the plates that extend the full height of the frame rail and then the shock hoops or braced across to each other. By tying the two frame rails together across the top of the shook hoops you eliminate any twisting of the frame rails.

Not sure how much this makes sense, if you have any questions p.m. me and I'd be happy to elaborate.
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Probably should have elaborated on my setup a little further.

Frame is a '96 but in really good shape. I removed all the brackets from the behind the bulkhead outrigger to the rear spring perch, and plated the entire frame with 0.125".

The truck is a 3 door, so I've got enormous fenders that I can package all of this stuff in -- there's no way it'd be possible on a 5 door or a 90. I've cut out the tops of the wheel boxes and a portion of the tub floor for clearance, which I'll be making extension panels for to cover all of this stuff up once it's done.

Instead of tubing, I'm thinking I'll just do the entire mount out of plate so that I can get a little better purchase on the frame. There will be a cross bar that ties both sides together as well.


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Old 07-22-2017, 08:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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here's a example of of what you may want to use...Most of the fab shops on here have a version, just using this as a sample of what's out there


WELD ON FRAME COIL OVER/AIR SHOCK MOUNT TOWERS - Shock Mounting - Products - Chassis Unlimited

http://www.artecindustries.com/Shock-Tower_p_346.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../STOWER12.html
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1983 110 RHD Pick-up

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Old 07-22-2017, 08:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Never seen something like that first one used for shocks...looks like a flipped universal panhard bracket.

I did a set of ORI's on a 90 a while back and used TMR's front strut towers. I might just make a widened version of that. Something like this, but not frenched into the frame...


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Old 07-25-2017, 10:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would box plate the frame, the forces that putting a dual coil over shock leveraged out on the frame will cause bending I'm sure. Also make sure there is some angle on the lowers. Frame side narrower than the axle side. That helps stiffen the side to side support and let's the uppers not completely handle all the lateral movement. Looks nice.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would box plate the frame, the forces that putting a dual coil over shock leveraged out on the frame will cause bending I'm sure. Also make sure there is some angle on the lowers. Frame side narrower than the axle side. That helps stiffen the side to side support and let's the uppers not completely handle all the lateral movement. Looks nice.
Since the outer part of the frame is plated and he plans to brace between both towers I'm not sure if box plating the frame is completely necessary. Yes it would make it much stronger but there is also very little weight in the back of a two door LWB... unless he plans to actually use it for work!
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The towers are going to be sitting right against the factory crossmember that the original upper link attaches to, so I think between that and whatever bracing I do between the towers I should have plenty of strength to keep things from bending or twisting.

I do plan on loading the truck up, though. The idea behind this one is to build something that I can drive across the country in relative comfort, camp and cook out of, and be able to take anywhere that a full-bodied 110 should be. I'll probably weigh in just shy of 7k on this truck, fully loaded.

Got some neat stuff in the works for power on this one as well. I should probably just start a build thread....
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