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Old 11-28-2018, 08:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Disco 1 OM606 Build

One day, around 2 years ago, I got the bug up my ass that I could replace the dumb buick v8 with a simple diesel powerplant that could improve my truck in all aspects. Here is the sketch artistry that has ensued since. I'm going to add the pictures I can find easily but I'm happy to include more information and pictures later if people are interested.

Correct me if I am wrong, but to my knowledge, this is the first LHD OM606 D1. Possibly the first om606 D1 in the US.

I chose the om606 for its power capabilities, weight, and availability. Rover diesels are too hard to come by in the states and Cummins motors are way too heavy to keep the truck capable on the trails. They also destroy transmissions. Chevy v8 was a thought, but I wanted to keep the electronics simple since I use this truck for long offroad trips and I am fascinated by the idea of mechanically controlled diesels.

Here are my goals for this build:
  • Maintain the stock auto transmission and other running gear
  • Keep it simple: mechanical control with minimal electronics
  • Improve gas mileage from 11mpg
  • Retain cruise control and A/C. I want to daily drive this truck.
  • Improve power output
  • Eliminate overheating
  • Improve reliability
  • Have fun

This build really started when I found 99 E300d at a local pick n pull. A unicorn find that I couldn't say no to after doing a decent amount of research in the previous months.



So I brought it home without much of a plan.

I wanted to keep the budget as low as possible, so I decided to take the 6mm pump elements from this motor and install them in an older om603 mechanical pump on my own. Typically, these are built by bosch approved shops, but I wanted to see if I could figure it out myself. I made a test bench on a lathe and went to work.



Here's the truck on the lift. Trans and motor out.





I decided that I could later upgrade the motor to make more power with a 7.5mm element pump, so I wanted to beef up the trans while I had it out. I went back down to pick n pull and grabbed a 4hp24 out of a 4.6 p38. The 4hp24 has a stronger primary cluch and other odds and ends. Again, I didn't feel like paying the pro's so I gave it a shot myself. This transmission was much easier to work on than I thought and I recommend doing this for anyone that has their 4hp22 out of their truck.



I tested the aforementioned pump on the motor on the stand and it ran terribly. I decided to do the headgasket on the motor since I had no clue on it's history. Popping the head off revealed an overfueling condition on cyl 6. After much trial and error later on, I learned that one of the delivery valve holders on the pump was clogged and caused this.





For the cooling system, I wanted to keep things simple so I ordered up an aluminum ebay radiator. I cut off the stock cooling fittings and welded on an10 bungs to make things easier to work on and actually have parts available.



I welded up some adapters for the transmission and engine oil coolers since the 4hp24 has a different thread and the mercedes cooling lines are some bizarre design. When in doubt, an10.





For power steering, I converted everything to an6. GM power steering pumps use the same connections as the rover so an6 adapters were readily available (will update with pics and part numbers when I have time)

This is enough for now, will post more in a bit.
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Part 2

Again, following the theme of simple electronics and retaining stock features, I took the original temp sensor for the dash and installed it into one of the coolant plugs on the head. This, along with a coolant sender from a pre 97 e300d allowed me to keep the stock gauges and the mercedes glow plug circuit without any trouble.



Another issue was the oil pressure switch. The mercedes never came with one. However, there is a convenient plug on the stock oil filter housing with m12 threads that allows you to install one. I'm currently using a switch off a 70's dodge dart since it allows for a dummy light hookup, as well as normally disconnected switching so that I can have logic for when the engine is running. This allows me to turn on the electronic lift pump in addition to combine batteries once oil pressure is built up.

I also toyed with relocating the oil filter housing by designing my own adapter plate that fastens to the block. It seemed to work fine, but I had no way of validating oil pressure at the time, so I am running the stock housing for now.





For my next decision, you guessed it, I kept the budget tight. I knew that the stock turbo was already undersized so I decided to go with a Holset HE341 off craigslist for its small exhaust housing and half decent compressor design. According to the compressor map, It should spool around 2500rpm. Other users have had success with it, and my experience shows that to be true. My logic here is that I shouldnt have to upgrade the turbo later, and it doesn't hurt to have excess boost while I'm on smaller elements since the diesels always run lean. I understand that there is a pressure ratio that should be maintained in order to avoid efficiency losses, so I installed a really basic mechanical wastegate controller so that I could have the wastegate open earlier or later if necessary. I ended up rebuilding the turbo myself, so hopefully it doesn't detonate.

I ordered up a t3 flange and welded it straight onto the stock headers. Maybe not the best for flow characteristics, but packaging worked out really well, and I'm not building a racecar here.





In order to avoid having the oil pan contact the axle of the truck, I came up with an oil pan from an 05/06 e320cdi. These things are incredibly difficult to come by for some reason, so I ended up stocking a second pan once I saw it for sale. The cool thing about the mercedes motors is that a lot of things fit together like legos. The oil pan bolt patterns are similar from om603-om648. Same with bellhousing for 603/6 and oil filter housing among other things.

Here is the new oil pump installed. It just bolts right in.



Next was getting the thing to fit in the truck. The stock engine measures around 30-32in long from bell housing to crank pulley if i remember correctly. The mercedes is closer to 36-37. According to the english rednecks who seem to do this swap fairly often, the motor should fit snugly with no modification to the frame. Wrong. After wrestling with the motor, I found that they like to notch the front crossmember. That is a little klugey, even for me, so I went an entirely different route. Move the transmission back 2 inches or so by drilling new holes in the frame.



After a few tries at that, I was happy with 2.5" back if I remember correctly. I found a used gazfab heavy duty bell housing and flex plate adapter so I ordered that up right away. I had to notch the transmission for the mercedes starter as well as massage the dowel pins to fit the adapter setup. Once that was completed, I couldn't figure out why the engine still wouldn't bolt up to the trans. Turns out that in 96, Land Rover put a different torque converter in the North American trucks that has much less backspacing due to an extension. The correct Tc just has pucks welded onto the donut. The one to get is off a 3.9 v8 here in the states. Most RRC's have one. I also had to open up the id of the brass bushing in the torque converter I bought in order to fit on my transmission all the way. This ordeal wasted about 3 weeks of my life.

Time to cut the motor mounts off. Officially the point of no return.



Next post will have a little bit of cringe material. I'm also forgetting a ton of information, so I will edit these posts at a later date as I remember things or I find more pictures.
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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pretty cool
how much HP can you get out of the mercedes?
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Old 11-30-2018, 10:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm shooting for 300-350hp @ 5,000 rpm at the crank. I'll post more details on the build this evening, but this turbo and my current injection pump setup should support that no problem.
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Part 3

So here's where things get a little ugly. Once i got the motor fitted, it was time to add motor mounts. I fabbed up a really crude hanger and unfortunately between it being my first time on a stick welder and probably something i didnt account for, I ended up with some fat booger welds. I figure it'll hold though.



Notice the half decent tig welds i made at my other shop lol.



The parking brake ended up touching the floor in the back of the truck, so I did a 1" body lift. Additionally, the tcase linkage needed to be adjusted so that the interior didn't get torn up, so I made this adapter setup and modified the linkage arms.



Motor sitting in the truck



Notice that I made an adapter plate for the a/c compressor. The RHD guys have to remove the alternator and relocate it to the same place because of the steering box. For me it was the stock a/c compressor. Fortunately, this is the stock compressor location for the disco so I kept the lines stock. I also threw in a 150amp alternator off an S class at the junk yard.

I used an om606 NA intake manifold for the intake plumbing. Plan is to add an air to water intercooler later once I get the basics sorted.

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Old 12-01-2018, 12:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Part 4

Shortly after, I got the truck on the road. It smoked really badly at first and wouldn't go past 35mph. Turns out leaving the stock fuel pump in place makes for a really bad fuel restrictor, even if you have it powered up. I pulled that out and replaced it with fuel lines to pickup. I also added a low pressure electric lift pump to help with priming. Once that was sorted, the truck drove alright. It was a little slow off the line, but overall had more power once I got it wound up on the freeway.... Until this happened.





I'm still not sure what exactly happened, but I heard the bang while rolling down the freeway at 75mph. The engine still ran well afterward, albeit down a cylinder, so it took me a day or two to realize that the cyl 1 piston wasn't moving. I'm speculating that the wrist pin seized as a result of another failure and caused the rod to snap. Maybe the rod was already bent or it wasn't getting oil for some reason. The rest of the motor and the other bearings were wet and looked good though.

"Why is the alternator covered in oil?"


Not to be discouraged, I took this as an opportunity to sort out a few more kinks in my plan to make this swap a little tidier. I found a clean motor on craigslist with 180k on the clock and dealer reciepts for a reasonable price a couple months later. I also ordered up some 7.5mm pump elements from Benzforce and installed them myself. This time I calibrated the pump phasing and fuel quantity manually with my buddy on the lathe setup. A cam degree wheel and compressed air allowed me to time the injection events of each plunger. I used a graduated cylinder to measure fuel volume over time. The motor has a slight shake just above idle, but otherwise seems to run much better than before. If nothing else, it is scary how quickly it revs up now. I'm optimistic at the moment.



I also got some help from a friend cleaning up the wiring and engine bay.



Here is how the new engine sat on the stand a week ago with all of the minor updates.





My timing belt routing for reference:



The engine is now in the truck, so I'm hoping to have it driving in the next week or so. Will post more updates once it's rolling.

Last edited by kartcrg84; 12-01-2018 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Great work. But that HE341 turbo is too big and will have no low end response. Your best bet from Holset is an HE221.

However that may produce enough torque that the gearbox has issues (~450Nm for the HP24).

The HE341 would compound nicely on the HE221. But that will again be more torque than you need or want on that auto box.

I've run through many OM605-606 turbo sizing options with full calculations in this thread on 4btswaps https://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...5-606-mercedes

Quote:
Originally Posted by me on 4btswaps.com
Looks like the HE221 (6cm) will run hard up to around 4000rpm with 30psi peak. It hits the wall after 4000rpm.

over 600Nm torque from 2000-4000rpm with low end far better than stock at all points. Also looking at 100cc/1000 shots of fuel.
Peak power around 220kw (300hp) at 4000rpm.
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I dig it! It's neat to see someone do something with the 'newer' benz diesels.
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Old 12-04-2018, 05:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Damn i would guess the engine mounts will fall out
before the engine took a shit
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Damn i would guess the engine mounts will fall out
before the engine took a shit
I know...me too. I'll probably grind them down and clean it up as soon as I can get the truck to a shop with a mig or tig machine. I did all the other welds in the build with a tig.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great work. But that HE341 turbo is too big and will have no low end response. Your best bet from Holset is an HE221.

However that may produce enough torque that the gearbox has issues (~450Nm for the HP24).

The HE341 would compound nicely on the HE221. But that will again be more torque than you need or want on that auto box.

I've run through many OM605-606 turbo sizing options with full calculations in this thread on 4btswaps https://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...5-606-mercedes
Hmmm. I think you have a good point, and while I'm no expert on turbos, I think the he341 has its merits for this purpose. If i were trying to make as much low end torque and usable power as possible, he221 or compound would be the ticket (I don't think I could package compound turbos). The bigger turbo will produce less peak torque but still be able to flow more air at high rpm which is actually easier on the transmission. This way, I can achieve my power goals for the freeway without being so hard on the transmission on the trails and around town. That said, I agree I'll have to be careful not to destroy the autobox either way.

Let's put it this way hypothetically. If one turbo makes 30psi and 600nm from 2k to 4k and the other turbo makes 30psi and 500nm from 3k to 5k, the second turbo is actually easier on the transmission at the expense of low end drive-ability.

My plan is to severely limit throttle with alda to start with and slowly crank it up as needed. We'll see how it goes.
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool!
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hmmm. I think you have a good point, and while I'm no expert on turbos, I think the he341 has its merits for this purpose. If i were trying to make as much low end torque and usable power as possible, he221 or compound would be the ticket (I don't think I could package compound turbos). The bigger turbo will produce less peak torque but still be able to flow more air at high rpm which is actually easier on the transmission. This way, I can achieve my power goals for the freeway without being so hard on the transmission on the trails and around town. That said, I agree I'll have to be careful not to destroy the autobox either way.

Let's put it this way hypothetically. If one turbo makes 30psi and 600nm from 2k to 4k and the other turbo makes 30psi and 500nm from 3k to 5k, the second turbo is actually easier on the transmission at the expense of low end drive-ability.

My plan is to severely limit throttle with alda to start with and slowly crank it up as needed. We'll see how it goes.
The best way to limit torque (saving gearbox etc) is by limiting fuel. The 600Nm is of course too much and was to show what was possible. But drivability can really suck with no boost. A diesel running clean with no boost can produce around 70Nm/litre of displacement. So you'll be around 210Nm before your turbo wakes up.

I've got stock OM606 (no idea where I got figures from, but the numbers all match up) using about 50cc/1000 shots of diesel from about 1600-5000rpm. Which peaks out about 130kw at 4500rpm.
Unless you want to get into serious fuel pump mods, to limit torque and smoke, you're probably looking at ~70cc/1000 shots across the range.

I don't have an example calculated out for that. But the HE221 example I had tapering off to about that amount of fuel and 20psi boost at 5,000rpm. It was delivering an honest 200kw at that point (225kw less pumping losses). Which is pretty respectable. In between the HE221 and HE341, you're probably looking at MHI TD05 turbos or newer garrett. Older garrett had not much in that range suitable.

I'd cap boost to 20psi and tune for clean and safe EGT under full noise. That'll put you in the ~400-450Nm bracket which should be a little kinder to the gearbox.

Last edited by Dougal; 12-08-2018 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Good info, thanks again for sharing. Hopefully I can get my egt gauge going before I install my 7.5mm pump.

I've been driving the truck around town for a few days, will post some details when I have a chance.
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I've got an OM603 Disco 1! Hope V2. Works better for you! Dont get discouraged it took me 4yrs to get mine going!

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Old 12-16-2018, 12:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Right on. I've been driving the truck a few days now. I managed to get it diesel registered in california. Besides being slow, it seems to drive pretty well with a stock om603 pump. Seems to spool around 2500-3000 rpm with good power at 3000rpm or so. Unfortunately it won't pull 4th gear down the freeway with this setup so I keep it in 3rd around 3250rpm @65mph. I also blew off my power steering lines a couple times. Don't use ebay AN lines for the pressure line if you can avoid it. I ended up going to a hydraulic shop and having some heavy duty lines crimped that seem to work really well. Starts reliably and overall leaks less than the v8 lol.

Maybe I can get some input on a couple of issues I'm having...

Tach: I soldered a signal wire to one of the legs to the tach and even though the wiring is sound, the tach is intermittent. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the alternator failing or dynamically turning itself off when it doesn't need to run.

Fuel economy: I just burned a tank of fuel and it seems like it's only getting 10mpg or so which is what I got with the v8. Any ideas here? Engine runs well and seems to make decent power considering the pump installed (similar to my NA om606 e300d). Maybe I have a fuel leak?

Overheating: I'm running the stock v8 radiator without the oil cooler hooked up. On long 70mph highway runs (15min+) the temp gauge creeps up. Turning on the heater brings it back down. No overheating in traffic or around town. I'm thinking that there is either a lot of drag on the freeway or air is being pushed around the front end by my bumper and winch. I'm considering cutting a relief vent in the hood for air to exit out the back to help pull air through on the freeway.

Here's some lame pics:



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Old 12-17-2018, 02:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You may want to check your plumbing. I had the same overheating issue, exploded my expansion tank even.

The stock lower rad hose on the 4.0 had a "y" hose going to the expansion tank. Since its 5/8" I plumbed it to the heater hose connection on the om603 with a T, but with that routing, it's getting hot coolant from the head pumped back to the tank, not drawing it back via the lower hose, mixing with the cooled coolant before going to the pump.

I now have a small plastic expansion tank just plumbed as an overflow, not as a filler location. I have an inline filler cap on the upper hose. They are like $15-20 on amazon for a plastic one, $20-30 for an aluminum one from summit/jegs

Hope you figure out the fueling issue. That mileage and power seems lacking. I drove mine to Washington, and could easily hold 70 on the hwy with my 603.

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Old 12-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Right on. I've been driving the truck a few days now. I managed to get it diesel registered in california. Besides being slow, it seems to drive pretty well with a stock om603 pump. Seems to spool around 2500-3000 rpm with good power at 3000rpm or so. Unfortunately it won't pull 4th gear down the freeway with this setup so I keep it in 3rd around 3250rpm @65mph. I also blew off my power steering lines a couple times. Don't use ebay AN lines for the pressure line if you can avoid it. I ended up going to a hydraulic shop and having some heavy duty lines crimped that seem to work really well. Starts reliably and overall leaks less than the v8 lol.

Maybe I can get some input on a couple of issues I'm having...

Tach: I soldered a signal wire to one of the legs to the tach and even though the wiring is sound, the tach is intermittent. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the alternator failing or dynamically turning itself off when it doesn't need to run.

Fuel economy: I just burned a tank of fuel and it seems like it's only getting 10mpg or so which is what I got with the v8. Any ideas here? Engine runs well and seems to make decent power considering the pump installed (similar to my NA om606 e300d). Maybe I have a fuel leak?

Overheating: I'm running the stock v8 radiator without the oil cooler hooked up. On long 70mph highway runs (15min+) the temp gauge creeps up. Turning on the heater brings it back down. No overheating in traffic or around town. I'm thinking that there is either a lot of drag on the freeway or air is being pushed around the front end by my bumper and winch. I'm considering cutting a relief vent in the hood for air to exit out the back to help pull air through on the freeway.

Here's some lame pics:



The tacho signal needs to be a rectified half wave. So if the field produces a 14.4v waves then you'll have a 7.2v ripple. All it takes is a diode. I've got an inaccurate tacho on my Isuzu due to pulley sizes (it reads 60% of actual rpm). Dakota Digital told me their SGI-5 speedo correction box can be used to fix that signal. But I haven't done it yet.

The higher rpm will be killing your fuel economy. It's never going to be a fuel miser with that aerodynamics, those tyres and that rack. But getting a smaller turbo so you can run highway at higher gears and lower rpm will help a lot.

The back of the hood is likely a high pressure zone that won't vent air out at highway speeds. Reducing engine rpm will help, also look at your fan setup. Is it fully shrouded?

Pics aren't showing. I see the insanely long URL's but that's it.

Last edited by Dougal; 12-21-2018 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 05:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the information. I think the tachometer issue is internal to the junkyard alternator I bought based on how intermittent it is. I bled the cooling system again and it never overheated again, so I'm hoping that solved that issue. Fuel mileage still pretty much sucks too and I'm thinking that air could be getting in the fuel or the lift pump setup could be causing issues.

I'm really bummed to say that this project has been put on hold due to disaster on Christmas day. I was driving home from my dad's when something under the passenger side dash appeared to catch fire (I chalked it up to old rotted wiring possibly shorting out since it looked like it was near the main loom). Despite using two extinguishers on it, I could not get the fire contained and it eventually caught all of the interior of the truck on fire. It seems like the drivetrain is all ok but I haven't looked at it too closely yet. Plan is to pull the body off but I'm not sure if I'll build another truck or not.

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Old 06-24-2019, 09:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I'm really sorry to hear that... I will be trying the same thing in a d90 soon..
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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fire

Thatīs sad, those engines work great in discos
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