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Old 06-23-2018, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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rotating axle c's tips

What's the best way to make sure the c's are welded in the exact same spot on both sides? I have them off already and going to be welded on soon.

any other advice will help too as far as camber or anything else I need to know. Axle is a 77ish Dana 44 going under a 52 chevy pick up that will be street only.


Also don't think my welder can weld it as it's only good for 1\4 inch? Probably just gonna tac it and bring it somewhere to have done
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Old 06-23-2018, 11:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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On all the 44ís Iíve done before I cut the cís off I check angles forwards and side to side. When I pound them back on I just duplicate them. Iíve never had problems. Hope that makes sense.
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Old 06-23-2018, 11:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If they are already off and the rig is leaf sprung, set the axle under there and put them where you want at height, check with a magnetic angle finder, tack them then weld them .

I find that the drivers side typically has a couple more degrees than the pass side due to road crown .
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Old 06-23-2018, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dig mag angle finder on perch and c to verify oe variance.

Move one desired amount. Move second to mirror first. Clamp staight edges to top of c's to verify matching plane/angle despite angle finder readings.

Angle finders a a great tool, theyre not quite perfect on repeating angle though.
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When I helped build a buddies Crane 14 bolt front with D70 C's we set the pinion at the desired angle and strapped to the work bench. heated the C's up on a propane grill to 450+ and slipped on easy. Couple taps with a 3lb hammer and quick hands on the angle finder and we were in the money. Good plan, fast hands, and back up plan Incase things go south and it should be painless
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I was dreading this with mine but it was much easier than I expected.

Knock them on about 1/2", and check the caster, knock on another 1/4", check caster, rinse and repeat until all the way on.

Once you are about 1" on, you will have a very hard time making any more adjustments.

The length of the press fit will take care of the camber for you.

Tack them in at least 4 places. Start with 1/2 second tacks so you don't pull it around too bad.

Heat with whatever source you have available to around 300 degrees and weld the C all the way around. Watch that you don't get too much over 450 or so while welding. If you start getting too hot take a few minute break and grab a beer.

FWIW I did mine with a 110v welder and it turned out fine.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I pre set up the tubes and C's with scribe marks where the caster I wanted would be with the correct pinion angle. Pre-tacked stops on the out side of the C's and heated them up. Once hot enough, slid them on, lined up the scribe marks, made sure they were against the stops and waited a couple minutes for the tubes to heat up enough to lock them in place. 4 tacks on each side, then welded the shit out of them. 3 passes on the inboard side and 1 on the outboard.

Both side came out exactly the same.

This was with new Crane C's and a new fabricated housing. .003" interference fit.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abig84 View Post

Also don't think my welder can weld it as it's only good for 1\4 inch? Probably just gonna tac it and bring it somewhere to have done

How thick are the axle tubes? You don't need a fillet weld any bigger than the tube is thick.
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How thick are the axle tubes? You don't need a fillet weld any bigger than the tube is thick.
I agree with that, however you still need decent penetration. Guessing if he says his welder is only good for 1/4" it's going to be a 110v unit and he's smart to tack it and take it to someone who can pour some heat to it.
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I agree with that, however you still need decent penetration. Guessing if he says his welder is only good for 1/4" it's going to be a 110v unit and he's smart to tack it and take it to someone who can pour some heat to it.
If that's the case, and it's a smallish 110v welder, I totally agree, he's being smart.

My old Millermatic 251 is only rated to 1/2". But that's doing 1/2' in one pass. That's a lot of ass to do that. So ratings can be kind of deceiving.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt1guy View Post
I pre set up the tubes and C's with scribe marks where the caster I wanted would be with the correct pinion angle. Pre-tacked stops on the out side of the C's and heated them up. Once hot enough, slid them on, lined up the scribe marks, made sure they were against the stops and waited a couple minutes for the tubes to heat up enough to lock them in place. 4 tacks on each side, then welded the shit out of them. 3 passes on the inboard side and 1 on the outboard.

Both side came out exactly the same.

This was with new Crane C's and a new fabricated housing. .003" interference fit.
you shouldnt weld the outside of inner c's
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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you shouldnt weld the outside of inner c's
Not according to Crane. They specifically said to weld them.

Myself, I can't think of a good reason not to.
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Not according to Crane. They specifically said to weld them.

Myself, I can't think of a good reason not to.
i can

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You only want to weld the differential-side of the C to the tube, not both sides, because as the welds cool and shrink, they increase the residual hoop stress and compromise the ultimate strength of the C.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/13675663-post22.html

reid has a very good reputation in the racing world

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Old 10-09-2019, 02:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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If that's the case, and it's a smallish 110v welder, I totally agree, he's being smart.

My old Millermatic 251 is only rated to 1/2". But that's doing 1/2' in one pass. That's a lot of ass to do that. So ratings can be kind of deceiving.
No reason you can't do it with 110v but to get the same cross sectional area you'd need to lay a hell of a lot of beads. Fuck that.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i can


https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/13675663-post22.html

reid has a very good reputation in the racing world

I've read that whole thread a couple times. Then I talked to Crane before I did my C's. I believe the difference in view points comes down to the difference in the material that the C's are made from. Reid is cast iron, Crane is cast 8620 Chromoly Steel. There's a difference in how those two materials expand and contract and how they react to heat input. There's also a difference to the weld itself when the C material is diluted into the bead.

If I had Reid C's I would have welded them the way Reid recommends.
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Old 10-09-2019, 09:09 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I once welded my C's on after about 6 whiskey drinks. Welds were solid, I was only about 6ļ off between each side.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I've read that whole thread a couple times. Then I talked to Crane before I did my C's. I believe the difference in view points comes down to the difference in the material that the C's are made from. Reid is cast iron, Crane is cast 8620 Chromoly Steel. There's a difference in how those two materials expand and contract and how they react to heat input. There's also a difference to the weld itself when the C material is diluted into the bead.

If I had Reid C's I would have welded them the way Reid recommends.

reid inner c's are forged not cast, which is what makes them so good
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Old 10-09-2019, 04:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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reid inner c's are forged not cast, which is what makes them so good
You're right, they're forged. They both are. I misspoke. But they do use different materials. So I still think my reasoning is sound, for why one might say weld both sides and the other may not.

My C's are on, welded, cooled and have a truss and shock mounts connected to them. Right or wrong, I ain't touching them again.






Unless they fall off
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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if cranes are forged i wonder why they dont advertise it

https://craneaxle.com/default/dana-6...r-knuckle.html
https://reidracing.biz/inner-c
and east coast claims the only forged c's are reids
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-15...er-cs-d60.html
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