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Old 03-26-2019, 08:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Dana 44 Tube Questions

So I have a Ford high pinion Dana 44 that has early Bronco Dana 30 inner C's on it. I am converting it to 6 lug so I have a junk yard 10 bolt in my garage torn down to use for the conversion. My Dana 44 is 2.75" OD with 0.500 wall. The 10 bolt has a 3" OD tube. I would like to use the inner C's off the 10 bolt since I already have them. Here is what I am wondering.

Can I slide a 3" OD 0.125 wall tube over my existing tubes, plug weld them to the existing tubes and run the inner C's from the 10 bolt?

Should I say screw that and get inner C's for a 2.75" tube and truss the tube?


I did some searching around and know about people cutting and sleeving to change the differential location, but I haven't found any concrete threads on what I was thinking of doing.
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What I've done in the past is whack the c's off with the tube inside still and then have a machine shop bore the C's to my desired diameter. Cost me $250 in machine work and it came out great. I was putting wagoneer outers on a TJ dana 44 for a guy who went to a 6 lug Currie dana 60 rear he bought off a Toyota guy.

Same deal. 2.75" axle tubes on the waggy 44 and only 2.5" axle tubes on the TJ44.

Last edited by Action Fab; 03-26-2019 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What I've done in the past is whack the c's off with the tube inside still and then have a machine shop bore the C's to my desired diameter. Cost me $250 in machine work and it came out great. I was putting wagoneer outers on a TJ dana 44 for a guy who went to a 6 lug Currie dana 60 rear he bought off a Toyota guy.

Same deal. 2.75" axle tubes on the waggy 44 and only 2.5" axle tubes on the TJ44.
Damn, $250 for them to bore it? Guess it's still cheaper than buying Crane C's and having them bored out. That's a good idea though. I was thinking of just sleeving the ends of the D44 to fit the 10 bolt C's, but wasn't sure about the strength of doing that. This thing is going under a 96-99 4runner, still have to narrow it a few inches to get it to waggy width.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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250 is a reasonable quote for that job. It's not easy to set up c's in a machine.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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250 is a reasonable quote for that job. It's not easy to set up c's in a machine.
Makes sense. I have a friend who works in a machine shop, going to see if I can get a hook up, otherwise I'll shell the 250 to have em bored. Still way cheaper than going the Crane route lol. Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The ones Iíve bored easily I had 4-6Ē of tube sticking out the back of the c. Bored through the c on a lathe then cut off the excess tube that I was chucked up on the lathe. If that makes sense. If itís just the c thatís a bit more complicated.
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The ones Iíve bored easily I had 4-6Ē of tube sticking out the back of the c. Bored through the c on a lathe then cut off the excess tube that I was chucked up on the lathe. If that makes sense. If itís just the c thatís a bit more complicated.
I have the choice to leave tube sticking out if it will help the machinist bore it out, the C's are still attached to the 10 bolt housing. Need to get those damn D30 C's off my D44 first.
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Action Fab View Post
What I've done in the past is whack the c's off with the tube inside still and then have a machine shop bore the C's to my desired diameter. Cost me $250 in machine work and it came out great. I was putting wagoneer outers on a TJ dana 44 for a guy who went to a 6 lug Currie dana 60 rear he bought off a Toyota guy.

Same deal. 2.75" axle tubes on the waggy 44 and only 2.5" axle tubes on the TJ44.
Could I pull the C's off, then sleeve them with some 2.75" ID tube then slide them onto my Dana 44 tubes? Effectively doing the same thing as leaving the 10 bolt tube in the C and having it bored out?
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Old 03-26-2019, 04:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Could I pull the C's off, then sleeve them with some 2.75" ID tube then slide them onto my Dana 44 tubes? Effectively doing the same thing as leaving the 10 bolt tube in the C and having it bored out?
I’ve seen it done with fabricated housings and aftermarket c’s. I wouldn’t be concerned at all running it.
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Last edited by RANGERROD; 03-26-2019 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 03-27-2019, 04:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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250 is a reasonable quote for that job. It's not easy to set up c's in a machine.
Rotary table + horizontal mill = cake. But yeah, setting that up in a vise on a Bridgeport would be kind of a pain.
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Sweet deal, thanks for all of the info guys!
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