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Old 03-23-2020, 07:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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safe to powdercoat transfer case?

Doing a rebuild on a spare 241c I have and itís filthy. I want to powder coat it while I have it torn down so itís easier to keep clean.

Is it safe to get the case halves powder coated? Or will it weaken them too much? Iíve seen them done before so Iím assuming/hoping itís safe to do.

2nd question - I have everything completely disassembled except for the annular gear that the planetary rides on. Can I leave this in place when itís getting powder coated? Iím afraid Iíll damage it trying to remove it so if I canít leave it while itís in the oven then Iíll just spray paint the case.

Hereís the gear Iím talking about. Iíll remove the bearing beforehand



Here is a pic of what kind of finish I'm hoping to achieve. Not red, just black or silver. and I'm not trying to make a flashy show truck. I just want it to be easy to wipe the gunk off it while I happen to be under the truck.

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Old 03-23-2020, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Iirc its 400ish degrees. Not going to hurt anything
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Old 03-23-2020, 08:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Powder coat is not hot enough to effect heat treating. Do what you want. Mask critical surfaces.
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Old 03-23-2020, 09:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes I powder coated an np205 and adapter black about 25 -30 years ago.

Use lock washers and thick flat washers as well as medium strength loctite.
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Old 03-23-2020, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It's about the preparation. The powder coater will want to bead blast it I suggest that you scuff it-wire brush and then lacquer thinner and engine paint rattle can.

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Old 03-23-2020, 09:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Iirc its 400ish degrees. Not going to hurt anything
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Powder coat is not hot enough to effect heat treating. Do what you want. Mask critical surfaces.
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Originally Posted by ParadiseAutoElectric View Post
Yes I powder coated an np205 and adapter black about 25 -30 years ago.

Use lock washers and thick flat washers as well as medium strength loctite.
Thanks y'all, that's what I was hoping for. going to give the powder coat shop a call tomorrow

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It's about the preparation. The powder coater will want to bead blast it I suggest that you scuff it-wire brush and then lacquer thinner and engine paint rattle can.
I considered doing that because it is cheaper and I can have it reassembled faster. After spending some time with a wire wheel I can get most of it down to metal but I can't get a wheel inside the crevices without a dremel. That's one of the reasons I wanted to powder coat so they can just media blast it instead of me spending tons of time cleaning it
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Old 03-23-2020, 10:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My Hotsy steam cleaner and some purple cleaner will clean up a 50 year old tractor clean enough to eat off of, I can't understand the need for a dremel when something is going to get covered up anyway, personally I don't like sand inside where oil goes, I swear you can never get rid of all of it .

If it's not a show truck I prefer Bowers suggestion .
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Old 03-23-2020, 10:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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aircraft stripper or oven-off. They have to tape stuff off after media. But I get it. Just took me 60 hours to polish out an Atlas. And it was new. Steel parts and tough stuff was sanded/massaged and painted with metalized wheel rattlecan.
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Old 03-23-2020, 10:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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My Hotsy steam cleaner and some purple cleaner will clean up a 50 year old tractor clean enough to eat off of, I can't understand the need for a dremel when something is going to get covered up anyway, personally I don't like sand inside where oil goes, I swear you can never get rid of all of it .

If it's not a show truck I prefer Bowers suggestion .
One day I'll get a steam cleaner but i don't have the room right now. That must make cleaning parts easy and fun. I was nervous about the sand inside too, but I'm taking out all the bearings before it gets dropped off.

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aircraft stripper or oven-off. They have to tape stuff off after media. But I get it. Just took me 60 hours to polish out an Atlas. And it was new. Steel parts and tough stuff was sanded/massaged and painted with metalized wheel rattlecan.
Man that looks awesome! Great job
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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vapor blast -> self-etching primer -> paint.
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Old 03-24-2020, 10:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ISDTBower View Post
aircraft stripper or oven-off. They have to tape stuff off after media. But I get it. Just took me 60 hours to polish out an Atlas. And it was new. Steel parts and tough stuff was sanded/massaged and painted with metalized wheel rattlecan.
Nice work! Heres a snowmobile engine I did once.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...V2TmdzajZ5dzNn

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...V2TmdzajZ5dzNn




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Old 03-24-2020, 11:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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vapor blast -> self-etching primer -> paint.
X2

Vapo-blast/Vapor-Blast/Wet-blast will make the aluminum look awesome.

If it is real bad to start with, I'll do a dry media blast, then follow it with a wet blast.
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Old 03-24-2020, 06:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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frank is busy posting corona memes in chit chat
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Old 03-24-2020, 11:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If you are a wheeler, they only look nice once so take your pictures before that first trip. Usually for someone to spend that amount of time, it is not just a part. There is usually more to it than just stock purchased.

Bet the engine is not stock either.

And we get it why others run what they brung. OK with me as long as it keeps running and not a fail of neglect.

One of the benefits of powder coating is the part will usually get blended to get all the flashing and sharp corners rounded. That makes it so much nicer to work on over the years.

Tech Tim showed me some parts off of his wet bead blaster. Awesome. I would just clear coat anything off of it!
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:02 AM   #17 (permalink)
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frank is busy posting corona memes in chit chat
It has been so dead in here that I let it ride for a couple days. If you guys want it in newbie I'll move it.

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Old 03-25-2020, 01:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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dont be trying to make us do your job
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Old 03-25-2020, 02:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Dammit!


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Old 03-25-2020, 05:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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LMAO!
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:23 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Well its hard to dick camo print powder coat. Thats more of a hydro dip situation
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Old Yesterday, 08:41 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech Tim View Post
X2

Vapo-blast/Vapor-Blast/Wet-blast will make the aluminum look awesome.

If it is real bad to start with, I'll do a dry media blast, then follow it with a wet blast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ISDTBower View Post
If you are a wheeler, they only look nice once so take your pictures before that first trip. Usually for someone to spend that amount of time, it is not just a part. There is usually more to it than just stock purchased.

Bet the engine is not stock either.

And we get it why others run what they brung. OK with me as long as it keeps running and not a fail of neglect.

One of the benefits of powder coating is the part will usually get blended to get all the flashing and sharp corners rounded. That makes it so much nicer to work on over the years.

Tech Tim showed me some parts off of his wet bead blaster. Awesome. I would just clear coat anything off of it!
I picked up the case halves and output housing from the shop yesterday after getting them media blasted. They look awesome!! I actually thought they had spray painted them a light gray color because of how much lighter and cleaner they looked. I'm going to paint them this weekend.

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Well its hard to dick camo print powder coat. Thats more of a hydro dip situation
Maybe I'll do that right before I clear coat it so the dicks are protected
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Old Yesterday, 09:37 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I did mine a few years ago and they are still looking good under there. Helps we have our own powder coating line at work

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