|04-10-2019 03:47 PM|
What axle are you running in the rear?
The stalling issue is not caused because of no speed sensor. I drove around for a year before recently fixing that issue. Wj gets speed readings from abs sensors/tone rings. I installed a custom set and all has been fixed. Could do a write up to help out. I’m running a 60 rear and 242hd case. You’ll need two rings cut out and install the old two sensors. Abs still won’t work with just two sensors but speedometer will. You have the abs and brake light on but it doesn’t affect check engine light or other code.
My wj would stall when coming to a sudden stop. Especially after a hard brake. It was not the brake booster. For me I believe it was the throttle position sensor/ or just plain too low of an idle. I swapped out the whole throttle body with sensors and everything good so far.
|04-08-2019 06:33 AM|
|saddis||1999 WJ limited 4.7|
|04-04-2019 07:21 PM|
|04-01-2019 12:12 PM|
Dragging up a old thread.
I put a 242J out of a 4.0 WJ in my WJ limited one ton swap build and have no speedo and the dreaded P0500 code that's causing stalling.
Can someone help me fix this please?
|03-12-2019 07:21 AM|
|03-11-2019 07:00 PM|
|Boogs1970||Do those coilovers have built in bump stops or you adding some?|
|03-11-2019 10:20 AM|
Please clear PM's so I can message people back.
|03-10-2019 07:29 PM|
|mtnmarc||Up for sale. PM me for details.|
|02-19-2016 09:26 PM|
How much for all the parts (heirs, brackets, axles)? I can do my own fab (welding, grinding, etc)
|07-01-2015 12:58 AM|
|BentWrench||Yj stretch is a bit of an under statement. More like a YJU.. it's pretty sick though. The wj looks good|
|06-30-2015 11:08 PM|
Went to prairie city last weekend to test a buddies freshly built and stretched yj
|05-26-2015 10:48 AM|
I asked about the electronics because I figured it was something you had already tried, I did read the LCOG wj thread regarding the Dakota DB, and if I cant get the SD signal to work with the wj, then Ill do the Dakota route.
|05-26-2015 09:45 AM|
Passenger side wouldn't be too bad for sure, just make sure you have that tube welded and/or trussed to the pumpkin, I've seen plug welds broken loose via a link over there .
About the 05 D60, the reference I made was based on the tooth count of the tone rings, something like 48 teeth on a WJ and 60 teeth on a 05+ Super Duty 60. That should balance out to be correct with 37" tires, but it not something I've actually attempted yet.
Marc, the owner of this jeep tapped into the speed sensor in the 231 tcase when he went away from the ABS sensors, and I believe I just heard about someone tapping into the transmission speed sensors? Might be the LCOG WJ thread . Hope that helps!
|05-25-2015 07:02 PM|
Unrelated question, I think I seen a post by you regarding the 05+ dana 60 unit bearing Working out with the wj if you run 37's. I realize that wj gets the speed and abs from the wheel sensors, what about the transmission?, or changes in gears? Also assuming that they could communicate with each other, what would you recommend to adjust for tire size so that everything runs ok?
I already picked up a 05+ dana60/sterling set with some artec goodies, also I got some SD 17" steel wheels, that I plan to run 37's with a DIY beadlocks. My question is; What else do I need to keep the electronic aspect of the swap happy?
I saw your thread in jeepforums, and all I can say is that you sir are bad ass!
|05-25-2015 09:03 AM|
|AgitatedPancake||well the 4.7 v8 isn't a monster by any means, but it's got enough umph to get the job done|
|05-24-2015 11:36 PM|
|scarrskey||I did exactly what AP did. Drilled 2 holes in the floorboard and used the factory plastic connectors and it worked great. Brake and fuel lines sit flush against the floorboard. This is for the rear. Front upper is on passenger side for me.|
|05-21-2015 09:30 PM|
|AgitatedPancake||No problem! Just unsnap the plastic connectors that hold them into the frame rails, and you can flex them without actually putting any new bends anywhere. Honestly now looking back, I could have taken a snap connector (like the black one the lines are clicked into in the pic you linked), and just drilled a new hole in the floorboard above the mount to snap it into. Then just assemble it with silicone to keep it sealed, and then you're done and they're held in place for you!|
|05-21-2015 09:25 PM|
|05-21-2015 08:54 PM|
I think I reinforced the chassis there? I need to fire up an old computer to see if there are pics that never made it online lol.
With the upper link on the drivers side you have to keep clear of the driveshaft and lines, upper link on the passenger side you have to rework the exhaust. If you're going to do the upper link on the non-pumpkin side of the axle, make sure you have the tubes welded or trussed so it doesn't want to spin on you.
|05-21-2015 08:39 PM|
I was thinking of using the clayton crossmember with the integrated LCA brakets( it places the lower arms around same area you used)
I figured I'd place the upper 3rd link on the passenger side to avoid the lines but, I might just try to move them too.
Did you reinforced the "chassis"
|05-21-2015 08:33 PM|
|AgitatedPancake||Right there . Was able to tuck all the lines above the mount, between it and the floor.|
|05-21-2015 12:20 PM|
I'm holding the LCA mount around where it will be, UCA mount relatively close to final position. We'll see what happens with fuel and brake lines
Silly question, where did you end up placing the upper control arm since all the brake and fuel likes run in that side of the frame? Thanks
|02-16-2015 09:01 PM|
Thanks man! I don't have any current pics of the WJ, but it's looking about the smae right now. The owner has actually been making some noise about bringing it back down for that next round of upgrades - V8 ZJ radiator, chopped core support and a new front bumper. I'll definitely update when that time comes!
I know the post is super old but just for verification Ravie - we don't completely eliminate the slip yoke, we just remove the slip from the driveshaft-transfer case mating splines, and put the slip in the middle of the driveshaft similar to most front driveshafts. One of the big benefits is the fact that it allows you to easily run a double cardan CV joint at the tcase, and doing so seals the rear output of your transfer case entirely, so you can even drive without a driveshaft if necessary in the worst-case scenario
|02-16-2015 08:36 PM|
|fischerry||Nice very nice clean build is thier a current picture of this wj.|
|10-09-2013 01:01 AM|
Hope my 22 hours of being awake answer cleared the question up for ya
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