|03-19-2018 01:32 PM|
|Rubirunner85||Thanks for posting all the small details of your build. This thread needs More vids!|
|03-18-2018 10:56 PM|
|Alex456123||Needs 4wd burnout videos.|
|03-18-2018 11:38 AM|
Ok, time for a long term update:
I can't believe it's been more than a year since I posted on this. The Durango is awesome! The end result of the wiring problem was 2 toasted ECM's and about $650 to repair that harness. In the meantime, I had Current Performance build me a new harness which worked flawlessly.
THanks to Jared at Current Performance and Chris at CHENRY Motorsports for all of their help sorting this out.
I guess I'll use the other harness on somethine else down the road.
At this point, the Durango just needs real gauges, air conditioning and NEW TIRES! BAHAHA!
Hope everyone enjoyed the thread. Good luck with all of your builds!
|11-16-2016 06:05 PM|
|centerforce||It's a shame to hear of small businesses in the industry treating customers like that. At least you have the issue figured out now, and can put the whole thing behind you.|
|11-16-2016 07:37 AM|
For those of you following the Durango, you probably know that I have had some wiring issues.
Several months ago I posted a "buyer beware" thread about BP Automotive. the thread is searchable under "hate to flame a vendor...". on LS1tech.com
This has been frustrating, but I finally found the stupid, amateur mistake that BP automotive made. here is the story.
I purchased a stand-alone power system from BP automotive for $1400. A steep price, but I really wanted a plug-and-play wiring system.
Issues I had from day 1.
1) No PCM power. I spoke with Bill at BP Automotive, and he was less than helpful from the first phone call. He is "too busy for this", and cocky, "All of my harnesses work. It mus be something you have done". When I asked for some help troubleshooting, he goes on 30 minute tirades about his wife's illness, his skills and abilities, and how many "thousands" of good customers are happy with his work.
2) After several hours, I found no power to pin 47 on my E38 PCM. During a second phone call, he assured me I didn't need power, even though the wiring diagram on LT1swap.com shows it should have switched power, and the pin actually had a pink wire in it. When I bypassed and connected it to switched power, PCM woke right up. Hmmmm.
3) Fuel pump would not run. So, I bypassed that and the engine started up.
4) TCM could not be seen. No power at all, no communication. After hours of frustration, and based on my previous conversations with Bill, I took the vehicle to Jared at Current Performance. Another wire bypassed, and he was able to get the TCM running.
5) We also noticed that the + and - bus to the TCM were swtiched. So we had to switch those as well.
6)And.....fans wouldn't work. Setting the temp to 192 on both fan control circuits, and engine at 210 or higher, no fan trigger at all.
For those of you keeping track. PCM, TCM, bus wires, fuel pump and fans all needed bypass or repair. So I have now hacked into the something like 5 times, and I am literally plugging in bypass wires under the hood every time I want to drive the truck.
This bothered me. So, about a week ago, a friend was helping me check continuity on all of the original circuits. I can't stand all of the hacked-up bypasses, and nothing is working right. We noticed that the green/white fuel pump wire from the fuse panel was showing continuity to the pink pin 47 wire (the first wire I found defective). Then, checking the fuel pump pin 50, found that it connected to the pink pin 47 wire on the fuse panel.
Hmmmm. Something is crossed.
Way back when I put this harness in, there was a weather-pack connector that goes from the fuse panel to the harness. I connected this and tucked it behind the plastic fender liner, safely out of the way and out of the weather.
So, I pull the liner out, and found the problem. If you notice, the dk blue and green wires for the fan trigger are on the left on the top connector, and on the right on the bottom. A close inspection shows the grn/wht fuel pump wire is actually crossing over to the pink pin 47 wire, and the pink pin 47 is crossing over to the grn/wht fuel pump wire.
Makes sense now, doesn't it?
I know mistakes happen, but I have spent at least 100 hours trying to sort this out. This complaint is not about the defect, it is about this jerks complete arrogance in himself, and his complete disregard for the customer after the fact. Go back and read his response on the previous thread. He blames me for choosing and E38 PCM instead of his recommendation of an E67. He also says that getting the product out the door is more important than spending time on the phone helping people with the product they purchased.
Again. Buyer beware. If you give this guy $1400 and get a defective harness, you are on your own. He will tell you to "come to Kentucky and sue me", and then slam the phone down on you.
And the pictures.
Connector. Notice that the grn/wht fuel pump wire is in the 5th position from the right on the upper connector, and the 4th position from the right on the lower connector. Also notice that the dk blu and green wires (fan control wires), are to the far left positions 6 and 7 from the right on the upper connector, but in positions 2 and 3 on the lower connector.
Getting into anyone else's wiring is always a painful experience.
Yeah, that's my $1400 wiring harness.
|10-20-2016 05:05 PM|
I am not sure how many people are still following my Durango build. No video, but I do have updates.
I took it for front end alignment and had him bring the front down level with the rear by adjusting the torsion bars. This placed the steering at neutral again, so it drives really nice. The rear disc conversion is always a huge improvement on these, and the stopping is pretty well balanced. But... I am planning on adding hydroboost soon.
Finished up the exhaust. I used 2 1/2 mandrel bend, with Hushpower mufflers and turndowns. It sounds pretty good. No drone, and not too loud. This will be a horsepower restriction above about 500 hp at the crank, but it is unlikely this engine will turn that high of an rpm anytime soon.
Went for the second (third?) round of tuning with CHENRY Motorsports. It was breaking up on acceleration, but wasn't showing a lean condition on the wideband or detonation. We started with 14.5 degrees of initial timing, and stopped there for now. Based on the advice of the internet, I used TR6 plugs and closed them from .038 to .030. Turns out, that was a bad idea. After swapping in a new set of TR6 plugs, gapped at 0.045 (yes, that's right), all of the stuttering and popping went away.
And it made and estimated 634 lb/ft of torque. Exactly where it should be with the LS3 cam and stock pulley on the blower. And that is about 80 more lb/ft than a ZL1!. For a comparison, the LSA cam (and ZL1 cam) is a really, really mild 0.480/0.480 198/216, whereas the LS3 cam is 0.551/0.551 204/211. While I like the LS9 cam with its 0.558/0.558 211/230, the LS3 was FREE! This engine loves to breathe, so eventually it will get an LS9 cam. Just want to test the drivetrain for a few months first.
And that's about it. Drives like a dream, pulls hard, and sounds pretty good. What more could you ask for?
|09-19-2016 04:54 AM|
Next update, I think I need a winch and mud tires.
|09-14-2016 06:03 PM|
YES!! We're so close to that 3rd gear burnout video
It sounds nice and healthy, though. We're happy to see it driving!
|09-14-2016 10:16 AM|
OK, time for an update.
Since I last posted, I took the truck to Jared at Current Performance who repaired the faulty brand-new harness I bought. I'm not even going to go into that.
I have been driving it. A lot. I did also had the front end brought back down to level by adjusting the torsion bars, and a front end alignment.
And I installed an engine start button to replace my Lowe's light switch.
And we did some basic tuning to make it safe, but concentrated more on the transmission shifting. The trans file had to be built from scratch, and still has a few bugs. No WOT testing yet, so the engine program is pretty soft on timing and pretty rich to be safe.
Here is a video.
ZL1 Durango start and drive 1/2 throttle - YouTube
|09-02-2016 09:27 PM|
Ok. So we finally have some progress on the wiring harnes.
When I first installed the harness, it didn't have any power on one of the wires to the ECM, so the ECM wouldn't wake up. After hours of dicking around, and a couple of phone calls to the guy who built the harness, I finally solved it by hacking into the harness and running a new wire to power that pin.
Next, we had trouble with the TCM, which was also not responding. We noticed that the CAN Bus wires into and out of the TCM were backwards, so.....you guessed it, another hack. I had to cut these wires off near the connector and solder them back onto the correct pins.
Then, for some reason, the power wires to the TCM were pulling down voltage, which caused the TCM to not respond. Another hack. This time we had to run a wire from a good 12v source to the power pins on the TCM, and the TCM responded as it should.
This wiring harness appears to be quality, but has been complete garbage. It was purchased from Bill at BP Automotive. This guy offered absolutely zero support with any of the issues I experienced, and sold me a harness that had multiple defects. Best thing I can offer anyone is steer clear of this jerk. I should have done more research, because I am not the only one with complaints about this guys work. Buyer beware.
|08-27-2016 05:39 AM|
As far as an update: I have had 2 different people (experienced GM techs), look over the wiring with me, and we haven't been able to find the problem with the TCM. We have what seems to be appropriate power and ground to the transmission plug, and CAN bus is working through the whole system. Since I changed out the TCM for a 2010, I don't have an OS on it, because we can't even see it.
The engine runs pretty good on a very basic base tune. No overheating, IAT is less than 20 degrees above ambient temperature, and no leaks or weird noises.
I took the truck to Current Performance this week. They have graciously accepted the challenge of sorting out the TCM problem, even though they don't do installs anymore. Hopefully it will be quick and easy for them.
Here's the transmission pin and corresponding pin diagram. There's not a lot too it, and everything checks out. Dunno.
|08-13-2016 09:56 AM|
Since I am stuck in 3rd gear until next week, I figure it's a good time to do a little off-roading. I was able to go from AWD to 4-loc and 4-lo loc without any trouble at all. The drivetrain has no jossles, vibrations or noise. But man, does this thing dig in! I'm going to have to make some splash shields for the headers.
|08-03-2016 07:27 AM|
Check out the video of the first start up. Runs kind of OK on a completely wrong base-tune. Right now, it has open header pipes that are about 2 feet long with 02 sensor bungs welded in. So it is pretty throaty at the moment.
|07-27-2016 05:35 AM|
Finally to the pedal assembly. Using the new assembly that was sent with the wiring harness, I realized that the pivot point was much higher than the dakota pedal, which pivots at the middle. After "eyeballing" where I wanted the pedal to sit, I took some measurements and realized that I needed to mount the pedal about 4 inches higher than the firewall studs. I don't like a wimpy pedal, so i like to keep the original mounting studs, and make an adapter to fit. In this case, I used a piece of steel that came from a commercial shelving kit. My wife works for the county, and brings me tons of this leftover stuff from kits the maintenance guys assemble. Worked out real nice in this case.
Original pedal location with pivot just below the attachment points (Sorry about the picture quality. My phone didn't like being under the dash on a sticky 94 degree day any more than I did).
Remove the old accelerator cable. Probably should have done this when the engine was out.
Scrap steel used for plate. I left the flange on to give it rigidity.
Cut to size and holes added.
Pedal assembly welded into place.
And installed. My goals were 1) pedal in original location 2) nuts easy to reach 3) simple, rigid bracket. Accomplished.
|07-22-2016 07:54 PM|
|07-22-2016 05:17 PM|
Ok. Engine bay is fully assembled. Now I just have to move into the cab for wiring, and accelerator pedal. It has to come off of the lift for that. I am too fat to squeeze under the dash with the door only half way open. HA!
|07-11-2016 07:24 AM|
Thanks for the suggestion.
|07-10-2016 07:02 PM|
I'm a Dodge guy and also an Engineer. The LS is a superior engine than a 5.9 and HEMI.
I enjoy following this thread and just wanted to say thanks for sharing. I want to see it road worthy. I like all the little things you share. The 3D printed brackets are cool.
My only concern is the 1/4-20 welded studs. Seems like it would be something to rip skin or a nice hole in the head when under it working. Maybe acorn nuts?
|07-10-2016 06:24 PM|
pex crimper is genius.
I never even thought about using it like that.
|07-10-2016 04:52 PM|
And finally, tested the fuel system and set the pressure. With the pump energized, The AN6 feed and AN4 return allowed me to dial down to 40 psi. That gives me plenty of headroom. So I set it for 60 psi.
I also started mocking up the transmission cooler lines. I used the original tubing on the radiator, and attached new hose so I could make the corner onto the frame. I use a PEX crimper to hold the hose on. I have done this for years. Never had a problem.
Want proof? I did these when I bypassed a leaking transmission cooler about 5 years ago.
And some final pictures for the weekend. Intake is in place, beginning of the upper radiator hose is seen here. You can see the breather hose attached to the intake in my usual fashion. Brass elbow drilled through. I had to order a couple more elbows to finish the upper radiator hose. They are in the mail.
And here is a little bracket I made to keep the breather hose off of the supercharger pulley.
|07-10-2016 04:51 PM|
Here was my weekend. It's about 105 in my garage, but accuweather tells us it feels like 109 outside. Not sure what it felt like in the garage, but it was hot.
First project of the weekend. I am running all of this wiring, but the smaller wires don't necessarily need a cushion clamp. Also, they are bulky. I remember Dodge used these really neat clips on the original harnesses. I had a few, but needed more. My wife sat down at her 3D printer and made a pile of them. The reason I like them, besides being very neat and flat, is the wire loom (corrugated or expandable) slips over. So if you have to get to the wires, you can peel the loom back and do what you need to do, then push it back over.
I know these look a little rough, but that's how 3D printing is. She could have increased the resolution, but it would have taken much longer. A pile of these clips took something like 15 minutes. Beats mail-order or driving somewhere (I wouldn't even know where to buy them). The other advantage is that she made them in different sizes by scaling up or down.
Attached to the wires with 3M electrical tape.
Loom slipped over. Now I just need to weld a 1/4 inch bolt on.
Next I primed the power steering with a 3/8 hex bit and drill. I like to test all of the systems before first start up. My son turned the wheel lock-to-lock. (Ignore the belt, I had removed it, but forgot to get a picture. So this is after I was done).
Next I hooked up the vacuum pump to bleed the brakes and test for leaks, while my son pumped the pedal.
And I tried to pull a vacuum on the cooling system using a silicone coupler and test plug with a nippled drilled through it. Couldn't get a vacuum, but I ran out of time. Have to revisit this one.
|07-09-2016 06:47 AM|
|07-09-2016 06:11 AM|
|07-05-2016 09:32 AM|
In one way this has to be one of he worst threads I have ever seen on here. Seriously, a Dodge Durango ls swap? There's always someone swapping an ls in something, but a big dumb Durango that's heavy, ugly and has a shitty dodge interior?
But I love the execution, I love how it's different, awd with a supercharged ls should still be fun no matter how bad the interior is.
So what I initially though was a shitty thread with a shitty project has become one of my favorite recent builds.
|07-05-2016 05:29 AM|
The build is winding down. I have been spending time on wiring, and tidying up all of the loose, hanging stuff. Here are some pictures in no particular order.
Remote battery terminals mounted on driver's side fender. Rather than use bolts that would eventually rust, I used upholstery push-clips. I had to open up the hole a little, and clip half of the head off. Worked nice.
LS harness fuse box. I welded a small shelf on the corner brace. Underneath are the heater hoses with Gates Powergrip heat-shrink clamps. I like those. Still had some wiring left to do in this picture.
And the final belt arrangement.
ECU is mounted under the body directly under the passenger seat. The lead for this was so long, this seemed to be the best place. There was a nice flat spot there for it.
I don't like drilling holes in the frame because it takes too much time. So I weld 1/4 inch bolts (sold by the pound at Tractor Supply). These are good for ground or cushion clamps.
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