|07-02-2016 08:32 PM|
42,s 14 c/o,s highline fenders sits lower than a buddies yj on 4 inch spring over with 38,
|07-02-2016 08:06 PM|
|the freeak||Nice. Let's see some more!|
|07-02-2016 04:41 PM|
Mine...Scout II steering box, 3 link, 7" stretch up front, 19" frame height and 7" up travel
|03-28-2016 02:37 PM|
|03-27-2016 07:48 PM|
Forgot to post mine, 7.5" uptravel with ~6" stretch
|03-27-2016 06:35 PM|
|Rugger99||95 YJ with the 2.5l... 6" uptravel and 2.5" stretch.|
|03-27-2016 02:05 PM|
|03-27-2016 01:49 PM|
|obijuank5||Anyone else get anything done with chopping off the front frame? Particularly mounting am outside the rail steering box?|
|08-28-2015 11:50 PM|
How low are you looking to go? I have retained all of the stock frame rails (only notched in the rear for coil over clearance) have 20" under the belly with a flat skid with 6" of up travel on all 4 corners with 14" coilovers on 38" tsl's I will have 22" of clearance when I go to 42's . If I would push the motor up I can get it lower but I don't need to drag the skid over every rock
The cj bump stops are just to not here metal on metal clanking all day
Full bump full lock half inch of clearance
The only reason I could stuff the axle so far up is I used a 79 ford Dana 60 any other axle the pumpkin will hit the frame my upper control arm bolts are even with the crank centerline
When I stuff the lq4 I plan on cutting off the frame at the firewall and redoing everything just cause it will be easier than trying to keep the frame
|08-28-2015 07:53 AM|
|neagtech||Here's mine. Slow progress but coming along.|
|06-05-2015 12:12 AM|
^ I agree. My original plan was to cut the frame, but when I played around with link mounting locations, I realized I can get the jeep actually lower than I wanted.
Granted I don't have a steering box. If I moved the ram higher, nothing would fit. This is a 3-Link setup, and everything clears perfect. I think it's all how you plan it out. Moving the center link lower makes it stronger anyways, spreads the load across the knuckle better.
At this point I think even a 35" tire is into the hood. These fenders are about 2" higher than stock.
|06-04-2015 04:30 PM|
I've noticed a lot of people trying to build a lower than typical suspension using large tires BUT they still try to use high steer arms or some version that lifts their tie rod because its popular. On these types of builds I've seen the linkage become the limiting factor on uptravel. If not building a rock crawler and still concerned about hitting the linkage perhaps a guard protruding from the leading edge of the axle to protect steering would be a better option than lifting the steering.
This was just my situation and observations. I'll go back to stare at the sun now
|06-04-2015 02:06 PM|
Here is mine, been working on it for a few months. I actually cut the front and rear frames and came out level from the highest points. It raised the bed floor about 2.5". Attachment 1791489
Full bump, lowest part of the frame is 15" now. Ride height is 7" up.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
|06-04-2015 06:45 AM|
Realized I didn't show the steering box on my set-up or how I ended up doing my frame. Since this was my first attempt at this extensive of a frame mod, I was worried about making sure it was strong/safe enough for street usage. The 3x3x.25 tubing was close to the original frame strength, the 2x3x.188 angle I added underneath it puts it well over stock. It also gives nearly a 1/2" x 3" bar running through the middle of it! Steering box~frame flex should not be an issue even with larger tires! This frame height also gave enough real estate to mount the steering and suspension components without needing any extra gee-gaws to compensate for leverage.
This shot shows the pitman arm clearance. I used a 1979 Ford F150 4x4 box. This allows the pitman to be on the outside of the frame resulting in a longer draglink (better angle) as well as more space between the frame rails. This is especially important if doing a significant stretch.
I don't remember what stock measurements were but now my frame height is 20.5", 8.7" front axle stretch (32.5" ahead of 1st tub body mount bolt vs 23.8 according to blue prints I've found online.). and the bottom of the tub is 26" from the ground. This is on 37" tires.
The only possible change I could see at this time would be to shorten the track bar an inch or so to move the frame mount inward a bit so it wouldn't interfere with suspension travel. We'll see.
|06-04-2015 12:13 AM|
|gtxracer||Bump. Any others? Been looking at tubed out front frames lately but would like to see others too.|
|11-09-2014 01:56 PM|
Here's what I did to mine a while back. Still figuring out what I want for a shock length at ride height. I'm thinking 6.5" up travel will give 4.5-5" flat and 6" during articulation. I'll have a limit strap to ensure I don't jam the coilover. I'm using 3x3x 0.25 tube for front rails. I pie cut the frame so I can bend the top and bottom plates to get the best fit possible. I also drilled out some large holes on the tops and sides of the new rails to make large plug welds. I used a deflection calculator and by using 1/4" wall tube I didn't lose too much strength dropping down from the 4" height of the original rails.
|11-05-2014 08:14 PM|
|Deadman 94 xj||
You can see what I did for my CJ on leaf springs. Just knotch out the frame for highsteer.
|11-03-2014 06:36 PM|
|10-28-2014 10:18 AM|
haha. I was having a hell of a time posting pictures last night, while I couldn't sleep.
My first post did seem a lot like "hey look at me", so I frantically tried to add pictures to make my point and didn't realize I added unfinished pictures.
I ran out of money(awhile ago), so Im just throwing the D30 back in with stock suspension for now. The upper arms are now tied into the engine mounts. Conceptually its pretty hill-jack, running stock suspension, but it actually turned out pretty clean.
Im not sure how the airshocks will work, Im new to all this, and on a budget(obviously). Plans for the jeep, idk, I never could balance time between my racecar and my jeep, so I combined them. This will suffice to do both tasks.
(Im going to have a grill cut out of 1/8 on a plasma table to replace this)
|10-28-2014 09:29 AM|
Neat! How'd you bend the grill?
|10-28-2014 08:35 AM|
|hurleygo3||What's going on with the front suspension? Airshocks and 1000hp? What do you plan to do with that thing?|
|10-28-2014 01:21 AM|
Sure I took a different route, but it definitely relates. I think it's a great idea, as all that cowl space is wasted if you don't run HVAC. which anybody that's build a wrangler, knows is at a premium. I'm sure this could spark idea for at least a few.
|10-28-2014 12:49 AM|
|10-28-2014 12:31 AM|
Here's my build. A bit different than most. Seeing as its 35s and narrow axles. Yes, packaging sucks! Theres a 1000whp turbo kit in there too.
On 35" KM2s I have 5.5" belly at full bump. Engine is set back 6.5" and to the passenger side 1.5". 16" travel airshocks front and rear.
|10-27-2014 10:36 AM|
|This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|