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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 07:52 AM
DMANbluesfreak So I got the Dana 60 pattern to where I'd like it over the weekend. Used gears are a pain in the ass!

First, I overestimated what was needed for carrier pre-load and got the carrier stuck in the housing, so I had to make a case spreader. Yes, I tried the shop rag and turn the pinion method - didn't work. I'll admit, the spreader did make installing and removing the carrier a lot easier so I'm glad I did it.



Took 11 tries to get it where I wanted, but if you look at the numbers - setup 8 and setup 11 are pretty much identical.



Things got even closer to where I wanted them when I installed the new bearings (vs. setup bearings).

The shape of the contact isn't quite like what I'd expect with new gears, but I double checked with my buddy who's much more experienced and he said I should focus on the wide area at the middle and how centered it is between the root and tip of each tooth.





Also, if you don't have a pinion yoke holder like this... MAKE ONE. Makes torquing the nut so much easier than a pipe wrench and cheater. I've also used this style to set preload with a 14b crush sleeve and it works great (just use a longer tube inserted into it).


Yesterday 05:20 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Stucky View Post
I scratched the solder off going to the bulb on my s10.
That'd work too, I just didn't want to create some funky discontinuity in the cluster (potentially). It probably would've been fine, but whatever. Tape's been working fine for 8 years now
Yesterday 04:33 AM
_Stucky I scratched the solder off going to the bulb on my s10.
04-05-2020 02:05 PM
DMANbluesfreak Not sure on the 03s.

I simply put electrical tape over the bulb (since it's soldered in) to keep it from showing on my cluster.
04-04-2020 10:24 PM
Solid Steel Curious if you got your abs light out, my 03 cluster has this anoying message were my odometer shows and would like to deleted the abs module anyways.

trying to figure out if im tricking the abs to think the fronts are working or if i just delete it and live with the stupid message. unless said message can be removed.

same goes with service 4wd message. do you know if it goes away on an 03 by removing the tccm?
04-01-2020 08:14 AM
DMANbluesfreak A few more hours of work last night. Got the 14b converted to a 13b, which took longer than expected (though I feel like I should've expected it ).




Gains another 5/8-3/4" compared to what I had before. Not a huge gain, but any gains are beneficial. I didn't feel like machining the ring gear at this point and going full HAM on a cut-and-plate shave. Maybe in the future, we'll see.

Otherwise, I got new axle seals installed on the D60, which took forever since I had to make two install tools (forgot that to install the 2nd seal, I needed the tool to fit through the first seal ).


Hoping to start on the front regear tonight. I verified my old setup bearings fit the new pinion and carrier, so I should be good to go. Wife's birthday is tomorrow, and I'll be spending time finding a new carrier for the rear axle Friday, so I probably won't have the regear complete until the end of the weekend - but I'm not going anywhere, so there's not much rush (Shelter-in-Place in Illinois extended to end of April).
03-31-2020 07:19 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
In my bummed-ness, I decided to weld the Dana 60 tubes to the pumpkin like I did on the 14b years ago. Preheated, welded, peened, post heated, and now it's wrapped in welding blankets. No pics, was too smoky in the garage for me to hang around much longer.
Also, snagged a picture of the cooled down diff this morning. No cracked welds!

03-31-2020 07:18 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Stucky View Post
I forget who makes it, but are you running the oh I donít know, circa 03ish k2500 front brakes?
Yessir, it's a homebrew setup similar to WFO's but if you text me I can put you in touch with the guy who cut them for me. Works great and allows me to take the whole spindle/hub out without having to take the hub off the spindle every time. Kind of a rebuildable unit bearing.

I'll see if I can grab a picture.
03-31-2020 06:30 AM
_Stucky I forget who makes it, but are you running the oh I donít know, circa 03ish k2500 front brakes?
03-30-2020 08:12 PM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toysupra1 View Post
pics all worked for me last night and again today?
Weird!
03-30-2020 08:12 PM
DMANbluesfreak No pictures or videos tonight, but I did get the 14b torn down and noticed a carrier bearing spun on the carrier so I'll be swinging by the junkyard to see if I can snag an open carrier.

In my bummed-ness, I decided to weld the Dana 60 tubes to the pumpkin like I did on the 14b years ago. Preheated, welded, peened, post heated, and now it's wrapped in welding blankets. No pics, was too smoky in the garage for me to hang around much longer.
03-30-2020 08:12 PM
Toysupra1 pics all worked for me last night and again today?
03-30-2020 08:10 PM
DMANbluesfreak Try again? I updated the links.
03-30-2020 06:52 PM
Subsrule Any idea why the last few posts pictures didn't come up ?
03-29-2020 09:15 PM
DMANbluesfreak Now, onto more pirate-worthy updates.

Pulled the axles to get started on the next round of mods.


Which, as a reminder, are:
  • 34" 2-Row All-Aluminum Radiator (to replace current radiator w/ pinhole steam leak) - [Done]
  • Ox Locker w/ Air Actuation (20oz CO2 Cannister for now)
  • 5.13 Gears Front/Rear + Install Kits (to replace my undergeared 4.56s)
  • PSC 1.75" Diameter Ram (to replace current damaged 1.5" ram)
  • Flat Belly Skids and Hardware for Mounting

Radiator swapped (new vs. old):


Normally, I'd regear the 14b under the truck since they're so easy, but I also wanted to shave it some more (13b) which would suck a lot under the truck, so I pulled it, too.



I didn't start on the rear except for draining the fluid and pulling the shafts, but I got the front completely disassembled. Turns out, it's a good thing I'm regearing...


I noticed a little bit of endplay on the pinion last year and was hoping it would hold on until I did the front locker swap, so I'm glad I didn't delay any more.

The 14b carrier also spun a bearing... but I had no idea anything was wrong on that... Magnet didn't even have much metal on it.





03-25-2020 05:51 AM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twmdodge99 View Post
I dig the fender flares.
Thanks man!
03-24-2020 06:44 PM
DMANbluesfreak
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Sounds like the shut down is treating you good haha. What radiator did you go with? I already have the bigger one in my truck but Iím sure Iíll need a new one eventually.
https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...218409/1432053

This one. At the time, the ACDelco one wasn't much cheaper but now it is. I probably wouldn't have paid $100 more for this one.
03-24-2020 05:51 PM
Twmdodge99 I dig the fender flares.
03-24-2020 05:19 PM
wvracer821 Sounds like the shut down is treating you good haha. What radiator did you go with? I already have the bigger one in my truck but Iím sure Iíll need a new one eventually.
03-24-2020 04:50 PM
DMANbluesfreak I also ordered some goodies for the truck to keep me busy during the coronavirus shutdowns.
  • 34" 2-Row All-Aluminum Radiator (to replace current radiator w/ pinhole steam leak)
  • Ox Locker w/ Air Actuation (20oz CO2 Cannister for now)
  • 5.13 Gears Front/Rear + Install Kits (to replace my undergeared 4.56s)
  • PSC 1.75" Diameter Ram (to replace current damaged 1.5" ram)
  • Flat Belly Skids and Hardware for Mounting

I'll start with the radiator since it's literally bolt-in.

The next three are all related (since the hydro ram mounts to the diff cover), so I'll pull the axles to regear them and clean them up. I'll also do the 13b shave on my rear axle while I'm under there to gain even more clearance.

The belly skids need a fair bit of fabrication and LOTS of drilling to install the 58 PEM/weld nuts in the frame and crossmembers.

Pretty stoked on all of these upgrades. Taking my time on all of them since... well, since I'll have time
03-24-2020 04:40 PM
DMANbluesfreak I also finished up the flares. Not my best work, but I had to redo and scrape off the old epoxy when it didn't hold. Ended up using 3M 04247, which is strong as hell, but only has a 30 second working time.






The wheel is still not centered in the wheel well. Since the inner fender is still there, I could only open it up at the weird downward angle. But hey... I think it's better than the 2/3 of a flare I was rocking before.


03-24-2020 04:34 PM
DMANbluesfreak IDK if the pictures in the last post are fixed... but either way.

New front shocks!


Built some extenders to get the shocks away from the crossmember... you can see that they're quite close at ride height and I'm pretty sure they touched when flexed.


Who needs a plasma table?






I also took the opportunity to fix the factory-style shock mounts which hung down below the axle centerline and moved them up, using shorter shocks (12" instead of the old 14") to still achieve the same uptravel... slightly better actually.




And the money shot! Look, completely smooth axle tubes!
03-17-2020 09:36 PM
DMANbluesfreak Been hacking away at smaller projects lately, and probably will continue to do so as we get more and more locked down for quarantine.

New shocks ordered for all 4 corners, because the 10+ year old 5150s were starting to feel pretty wallowy. Only got the fronts installed because I want to redo my rear mounts a bit to keep them from hanging down so low below the axle centerline. Unbelievable how tight they made the truck handle, even just on the front.


Even though I did gaskets about two years ago, I had a leak on the driver's manifold. Turns out there was some rust keeping it from sealing properly so I wire wheeled the manifold sealing surface and now the exhaust leak is finally gone. Good news is that all 6 bolts came out no problem.


Gave a tug at one of the rear flares and decided it was time to FINALLY redo the wheel well openings when a bunch of rust fell out. Even worse once I pulled the flare off. Good news is that I think cutting the existing rust out a few years ago paid off, they're not much worse than they were.


Cut the opening bigger, trimmed the inner fender/wheel well, and added some strength back.




And finally started chopping two sets of flares together for a super wide opening. Looks decent, but have to deal with the swoopy shape so the inner wheel well doesn't need to get cut. I'm calling it a nod to the 67-72 Chevys.
03-16-2020 08:44 PM
DMANbluesfreak

Basically cut a hole big enough and then make this mounting plate for it. The fuel pump will seal against this surface and the top clamp w/ 6 holes will bolt it down using the studs.

Like this:


Let me know if the pictures work for you. I did have to modify the slides and float on the fuel pump to make it fit, but you should be able to figure that out pretty easily
03-16-2020 01:48 PM
OldMan57
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
The tank has a lip that is spot welded to hold the two halves together. I added some flat stock to the front and rear where the tank mounts for it to press against. That's how the factory K5/Burb tank was mounted. (It's a 31 gallon Square Body Suburban tank modified for the truck's fuel pump unit).
By chance, do you have any photos of the modifications you had to make to accept the truck's fuel pump unit?

I'm kind of in a similar situation looking at the late 90's Suburban fuel tank (42gal) to go in the spare tire location of an '03 2500LD frame. Fits beautifully with my own crossmembers, but what I don't want to do is cobble together the fuel pump unit. In a perfect world i'd put the '03 6.0 pump unit into the 90's Suburban tank, but I want to keep all electronics working and gauge happy, as well as not have to epoxy the pump unit in because a locking ring or O-ring didn't work out as expected.
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