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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:12 AM
JNHEscher Open a window on both sides, then you have a work bench for materials 8' and longer. Stripped all the mill scale off the tubing and finished prepping the beams. Positioned the 1.5" tubes and mocked up the air tanks. I decided to notch the 2x5 tubes and weld those up before fitting over the 1.5" tubes. Didn't take any other pictures today, so I'll show ya tomorrow.
06-16-2019 10:18 PM
JNHEscher Just ordered six of these buggers for $26.93 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiant-Hea...72.m2749.l2649

The three-star review was actually encouraging because I didn't need ports as large as claimed. They were so dirt cheap that I couldn't really pass up the chance to build the stainless manifolds for so little when compared to all the other options. I've search a bunch of PTC manifolds as well and couldn't come up with anything to suit that didn't require a multitude of assemblies because of port size differences.
06-16-2019 08:57 PM
JNHEscher About as shiny as they can be. Long list of stuff to do this week while my pops is here. Should be stripping the mill scale off the tubing tomorrow and starting to position them. Air tanks tracking says they'll be here Tuesday.
06-15-2019 12:53 AM
JNHEscher Eh? https://www.freshwatersystems.com/pr...0aAtvMEALw_wcB

Whatever I searched showed this fitting in the shopping category and it happens to be the exact size on both ends. I know nothing of the brand or company. Braided AN lines and such would be dandy if it weren't for the cost of it all multiplied by eight tanks. The RO systems use the same type of plastic fittings and tubing with a max pressure of 85 psi as a whole system. The polyethylene tubing takes 150 psi. For the cost, I think it's safe for me to order a bag of the fittings to try out without much loss if they're no good.



I think this will end up being the water manifold of choice, albeit Chinese. I can't really justify spending double on the more prominent PEX brands with fewer parts for this particular system. https://www.pexuniverse.com/ssm204-s...-heat-manifold. Ends should be 1" npt and faces should be 1/2" npt.

The benefit of using a 4-loop radiant heating manifold setup is that it will accommodate all eight tanks and plenty of RO outputs on one tube, and the second tube can handle the lower pressure PE-RT fixture lines with a water pressure regulator between the tubes. Makes good sense and it seems most of these types of manifolds are good for 100 psi. The shut offs are a bonus that I will likely use. All compression and flow regulator port adapters will be swapped out for PTC and Sharkbite adapters.
06-14-2019 07:28 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstRam View Post
I have a few Pepsi kegs that I use as sprayers that routinely see 100 psi (ball locks) and I've never had a problem. I also have 4 that I machined the fitting on top of the tank down and welded 1/4" SS couplings with ball valves to make them a little more user friendly.

The modified tanks flow better without the stock check valves restricting the flow. You could use 90 push to lock swivel fittings to keep good flow and cheap repair parts.

McMaster 51055K53 They're plastic but so are the ball locks. SS fittings are available but $$$.
Good news. Saves me some time and trouble. I wasn't planning to modify the ball locks in any way. Figure having the check valves is a nice feature for any time I want to pull tanks for any reason and be able to leave a few in to keep the system running.

What sucks right now is interconnecting it all because these weren't built to flow as much as I need which requires that the liquid outputs be paralleled. Otherwise I'd just run all the tanks in series to get one air port and one liquid port. I'm a bit tempted to go series anyway to save a ton of coin in fittings and lines. I can't remember what the washing machine requires for flow, but the sinks will likely be 0.5 gpm each and the shower is 0.5-1.5 gpm.
06-14-2019 07:02 PM
FirstRam I have a few Pepsi kegs that I use as sprayers that routinely see 100 psi (ball locks) and I've never had a problem. I also have 4 that I machined the fitting on top of the tank down and welded 1/4" SS couplings with ball valves to make them a little more user friendly.

The modified tanks flow better without the stock check valves restricting the flow. You could use 90 push to lock swivel fittings to keep good flow and cheap repair parts.

McMaster 51055K53 They're plastic but so are the ball locks. SS fittings are available but $$$.
06-14-2019 06:11 PM
JNHEscher Working on planning line routes. The tanks do nest nicely. I measured them at 33.25" when perpendicular. Not a problem because there's plenty of extra foot material that I can cut off to get them down to 32.5" I was thinking that the posts were splayed a bit, but they are parallel to the tank sides. There will be 1.5" of headroom above the tanks and in between the 1.5" tubes to work in and none of the ball lock couplers land directly underneath any of the tubes.

I've been wracking my brain over the lines and fittings. Have to wait for the air tanks to get here before I can figure anything out for sure. I want the lines to enter bottom tank ports so that if water does ever reach the expansion tanks, it can drain right back out. A ball float check valve would be handy, not particularly necessary, though I would be wise to T the air lines to a single port for check valve installation. I don't think changes in temperature or elevation will really be of any bother - especially with 10 gallons of expansion, thus I'm going without valve for now.
Water lines, on the other hand, need to manifold in parallel to something closer to 5/8"/-10 or 3/4"/-12 before branching off to the 3/8" PE-RT(newer PEX) home runs. I've been browsing various AN fitting and weld-on bung options to make some kind of manifold run. Might have to see what I can come up with for a PEX tube turned into manifold with T fittings. There's not a whole lot of room where the liquid fittings reside.

The plastic ball locks may be fine, though I am going to both fill a tank with water and hook up my compressor to an unconnected and connected fitting and run it to 100 psi to be sure that the fittings won't blow apart as soon as I open the gates to the installed system. Don't know until I try because the kegging articles I pulled up never mentioned anything above 20 psi.

Expanding on the SketchUp model of the tanks in the pit, I added the rusty walls/beams I have to work within along with the 1.5" cross tubes. I'm starting on the wheels tubs next so that I can figure in weight with functionality.
06-14-2019 03:27 AM
JNHEscher Reordered the Airlift tanks. Had to rush to cancel last nights order because it had the wrong address. Hopefully those will be on their way by later today and arrive early next week so that I can determine where to set tubes and such. Did a little measuring to see where the tanks could sit and it looks like the 1/4" drain ports will hang over the pit so that the air lines can clear everything. I may mount the tanks so that the face ports point downward instead so that I can access the foot mounting hardware easier.

I'll probably finish grinding the beam tops tomorrow. Acid worked some. There's still a lot of rust pits that I'll have to weld over and rust convert later on once everything is burned in. Looked over the subframe some more today and noticed that the heavy wall beams don't actually extend all the way to the firewall. They stop and some 11 gauge sheet that the front uprights are formed with that has gotten pretty rusty. I'll have to address that after I restructure to top of the subrame to restore strength.

Maybe some test fitting of water tanks tomorrow. Until then. Off to bed.
06-13-2019 08:10 PM
JNHEscher Whisler for the post and tube rings. Old West Homebrew Supply for the rest. Dug through all the supply lines at Home Depot. They're all compression, so to Summit I'll go for all the -4 interconnect lines.

Measured the freshly opened gap atop the subframe beams last night. 5" tall and 1.5" overhang between the beam edge and underside of the center rail. Glaser Steel had plenty of 2x5 3/16" at $9/ft. Around 400 cubic inches inside each tube. Wonder what I'll stuff inside 'em.
06-13-2019 12:03 AM
JNHEscher All but one corner done. Gotta grab some more discs. Wore down my last one so it won't reach into the last corner. I'm thinking I'll have to scrub the beams with muriatic acid to get in to all the pits without having to grind down 1/16" of steel. Found a rust hole at the front of the curb side beam that I'll need to fix and the front of the road side beam sounds really hollow. I'm not sure why that section would have been made with much thinner steel. Stuff to find out.

About to order air tanks, fittings, O-rings, etc. Might even order the Shurflo if there's enough funds left. Now that I think about it, I could use one or both of the spare Pepsi kegs for the pump pressure tank. Kinda need to test the system out. I'm guessing the water pressure between the pump and RO filters won't drop very quickly, but a pressure tank helps a ton with pump cycling.
06-12-2019 05:41 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
Sweet! Change all the orings now while they are not crammed together!!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Yup! They don't look too shabby, but better to do it now. And I have the shopping list posted! I'll be trimming and bending the liquid dip tubes so that they're all at drawing from the lowest point with the tanks horizontally mounted. Gas tubes might get pointed as high as I can get them. Gonna order a pile of the CM Becker fittings and see if I can get 1/4" flare water supply hoses from Lowe's or something. If not, Summit will have all kinds of AN braided hoses to choose from. Teflon vs. PVC lining probably doesn't matter much. The household supply hoses are just a lot cheaper and can be purchased locally by the bundle.

I'll need to parallel all the liquid lines to some kind of manifold of sorts so that there's enough total flow. 1/4" line is good for one faucet, but we'll have two sinks, one washer, and one shower. All low-flow/high efficiency.
06-12-2019 05:34 PM
JNHEscher In case I've been confusing anyone. Slid a tube in to measure across. 100.5". The tubes will sit on top of the subframe beams and underneath the center chase(originally the cold air return) and be welded to both. The excess of the tubes that hangs into the wheel openings will act as the slider posts for the wheel tubs. I'm thinking the curb side tub will double as a slide-out table for bbq's. Make multiple uses of it all, I say.

I would be using the two spare Pepsi kegs as the expansion tanks, but they're too large to shove into the spare spaces I have that are higher than the location of the water tanks. Hence two of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/air-11956 will go in. I can't weld in the square tubing until these tanks come in so I can be sure that everything is dimensionally accurate. Some air tank manufacturer specs can be a little......inflated.

No further cutting will commence on the pit until I have those square tubes welded up top. The X member of heavy wall 1.5" square that spans between the bottom of the two subframe beams is about all that currently joins the beams. There's quite a bit a 14-11 gauge sheet metal attaching them as well, but I'm not going to rely on that, even though I have the bus on jacks and the steer axle fully supported right now.
06-12-2019 05:11 PM
Java Sweet! Change all the orings now while they are not crammed together!!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
06-12-2019 05:09 PM
JNHEscher 10 for $300. Went ahead on got the two spares. Not as cheap as some. Not as expensive as others. Still a good deal from some genuine fellows at Whiskey Barrel Coffee in Denver. Pretty cool small fab shop they have in back where the kegs were and awesome antique coffee machines up front.

Good thing the guy I was talking to announced the two different tank styles. The first ones I looked at had both nipples on the same side. Caught me off guard. He explained that the kegs up top were the tall, skinny ones and the bottom was the short, fat ones. The short ones were 9x22's that were originally pin locks that had been converted to ball lock. Tall ones are the actual Pepsi kegs that are in fact 8.5x24 with nipples on opposite sides. 9" diameter tanks wouldn't have fit. I'm still chuckling at how much lighter they are than that 400-pound stainless box was going to be (not including the water).
06-11-2019 10:36 PM
JNHEscher Much like with an oxy torch, I occasionally use a plasma to "wash" metal away. Wears out the consumables quicker, but works great and it's so much quicker. The subframe beams look like they're cleaning up well. The road side is about done. Got the bulk out of the curb side.
06-11-2019 10:32 PM
JNHEscher Today's shenanigans. Plasma and grinder put to work. Happy with my idea I shared earlier today and to be yanking this rusty chunk out. I pulled the wheel flares off while my wife began the plasma cuts. I should be back home in time to finish trimming tomorrow so that I may measure for the square tubing that will span between wheel arches.
06-11-2019 01:54 PM
JNHEscher Looks like all the corny tank measurements are working out more than perfectly. This is excitingly surprising, yet not surprising at all. It's a lot like how the electrical junction boxes fit right in the center chase and then the PVC conduits laid right in like the bus was made to accept these parts and materials.

That said, I'm making a note for myself here. For eight corny tanks, I need 7 gallons of expansion tank. With the 1.5" square tubes being welded on top of the subframe beams, I have 6" of height left over between the tops of the square tubes and the underside of the floor. I found 5-gallon 6" diameter air tanks on Summit. One for each side and their 7.5" height on their feet fits right in. As a bonus with the 1.5" square tubes running transverse to the bus, I can place them to be the telescopic slides for the slide-out wheel tubs I was planning because they will protrude towards the wheel arches right where I would need them. I may need to grab another stick or two for this, but this arrangement will allow for the slide tubes to span the full width of the bus and remain seamless so that slider alignment is highly accurate.
06-11-2019 07:41 AM
Java Fittings are pretty stout. And yes Orings are easy to get. The lid uses a large oring as well.

Yes it was right at 32.5" when perpendicular. If its REALLY tight you may be able to shove them a little tighter. The tops and bottoms are a hard rubber, may have a little give.
06-10-2019 09:39 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarterKaft View Post
I'm glad you found the info useful. I always struggle with weather or not to suggest another way of doing something because I know I am as hard headed as the next guy.
Bring it on, man. Your research/experience has been better than mine, from what I remember you posting. Sometimes I scratch my head and my ass over this stuff for far too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
Perpendicular the fittings look to nest nicely.

Overall with the fittings is about 25.25"

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
That's an extra half inch to deal with. Although, your first pic looks as though you might have had the lens looking straight down. I have exactly 32.5" to fit these into and the perpendicular assembly appears to land damn near on 32.5". This is going to happen. I mean, six tanks will suffice, but if I can cram in eight....

Adding this because I'm not sure if the plastic fittings can take up to 85 psi under a lot of vibration. https://www.morebeer.com/products/to...ess-flare.html
And this may come in handy:
Dip Tube O-Rings
5/16″ ID x 1/2″OD x 3/32″ width
9452K172 BunaN #109
Pkg 100/$1.89

Post O-Rings
7/16″ ID x 5/8″ OD x 3/32″ width
9452K23 BunaN #111
Pkg 100/$2.15

Lid O-Rings
3 1/2″ ID x 4″ OD x 1/4″ width
9452K218 BunaN #417
Pkg 10/$12.50
06-10-2019 09:12 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
That would be stupendous. Only if you're willing. Just a picture of two of them butted up against each other in perpendicular manner like I have pictured would help a lot. The fittings look like they're splayed enough to clear, but I'm not sure how tall the ball locks are. I know I can't really change the nipples any because of how they seat the dip tubes.
Perpendicular the fittings look to nest nicely.

Overall with the fittings is about 25.25"


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06-10-2019 09:09 PM
CarterKaft
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Found several cornies in Denver, so I think the boys and I will ride along with my wife at the crack of dawn when she heads to work Wednesday. We'll have to kill 12 hours until she clocks out, but for the price of these things, it's well worth it. Looks to me like they're the way to go because they accomplish everything I had in mind. Honestly, I can't believe we were so close to pulling the trigger on something else ten times the cost before Cornelius tanks came up. Pays off to load a thread with gibberish, I guess lol.

Did a quick mock-up with the general dimensions. I should have no problem fitting eight tanks into the designated space. They do interfere with each other by 0.75". Since the hand holds look to be plastic, I'm pretty sure I can notch them down enough for everything to fit just right. Quick search for tanks brackets should get me some hoops to hold them in place.
I'm glad you found the info useful. I always struggle with weather or not to suggest another way of doing something because I know I am as hard headed as the next guy.
06-10-2019 08:49 PM
JNHEscher
Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post
I have two here if you want real world numbers. You need some clearance for the fittings on the top.

But parts and orings etc are easily available!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
That would be stupendous. Only if you're willing. Just a picture of two of them butted up against each other in perpendicular manner like I have pictured would help a lot. The fittings look like they're splayed enough to clear, but I'm not sure how tall the ball locks are. I know I can't really change the nipples any because of how they seat the dip tubes.
06-10-2019 08:33 PM
Java I have two here if you want real world numbers. You need some clearance for the fittings on the top.

But parts and orings etc are easily available!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
06-10-2019 08:29 PM
JNHEscher Found several cornies in Denver, so I think the boys and I will ride along with my wife at the crack of dawn when she heads to work Wednesday. We'll have to kill 12 hours until she clocks out, but for the price of these things, it's well worth it. Looks to me like they're the way to go because they accomplish everything I had in mind. Honestly, I can't believe we were so close to pulling the trigger on something else ten times the cost before Cornelius tanks came up. Pays off to load a thread with gibberish, I guess lol.

Did a quick mock-up with the general dimensions. I should have no problem fitting eight tanks into the designated space. They do interfere with each other by 0.75". Since the hand holds look to be plastic, I'm pretty sure I can notch them down enough for everything to fit just right. Quick search for tanks brackets should get me some hoops to hold them in place.
06-10-2019 06:33 PM
Java
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNHEscher View Post
Found that. Gotta try all the keywords on the local Craigslist. Hopefully I'm not competing with the thousands of brewers here. Everybody and their grandma in Colorado wants to brew.
Ha! Yep, your competing with all the homebrewers. Get ball locks if you can.

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