|06-11-2019 11:18 PM|
Hardware for the front and rear hubs were beefed up to 7/16 fine thread 12 points for strength and convenience of not using cone washers. I saw it done on pirate before but looking at the pics im not sure if its gonna clear the rotors and rims around the hub circle diameter. I will have to check that and grind bolts in necessary.
|05-29-2019 09:44 PM|
Some pics and details on the adaptor setup. 3VZ flywheel with 5/16” shaved off the crankshaft mating surface and the bolt pattern slightly enlarged. I had a spacer made for internal slave, unfortunately it was needed. Im fortunate that i have a machinist buddy who doesnt mind helping 👌 The stock slave fittings dont work and i want a remote bleeder anyways. The plan is to use AN fittings and run a couple 90° bulkhead fitting through the bell housing. I want to do hardlines from slave to the bulkhead then run stainless braided lines from there.
So far these are old pics but im almost caught up now. I havent touched the truck in awhile. Im moving into a new place with a double garage soon though 🤘🏼 So i can make some progress and get it done soon
|05-09-2019 03:22 PM|
Yeah i was gonna cover the adaptor soon. My adaptor was cheap ($300 cad) but it isnt really available anymore. Im using a North West Fabworks Adaptor. It adapts the tranny to the auto bell housing and uses a T-56 internal slave cylinder. They only made a few and they arent making them anymore. Other companys make the same adaptor plate though, albeit much more expensive. I had a lot of problems with the adaptor plate but i think its sorted now after swapping plates a few times with NWF.
Im using a machined 3VZ flywheel and marlin clutch. In hindsight i wish i would have done my own research to see if a 5VZ clutch and flywheel would work because i feel like it could work but i couldnt find any decent info online
|05-09-2019 08:28 AM|
|05-09-2019 07:43 AM|
|05-09-2019 07:30 AM|
You use your bellhousing and any R-Series transmission.
|05-09-2019 04:57 AM|
|DMG||I would like to see some detail about putting the manual trans behind the V8. I have an 03 tundra that would love a manual trans.|
|05-08-2019 12:12 PM|
Mocked up the 79 Bronco steering box and clearanced the sheet metal. I didnt want to run hydro assist but i wouldnt mind some extra power, and in the end i think the a reversed ford box is a better fit anyways. It puts the input shaft higher to clear to the headers better and im able to keep the the front cab mount more intact since the hole i cut out is higher than it would be for an IFS box.
The local company i contacted to rebuild my steering box quoted me the same price to reverse it vs a basic rebuild so that was a bonus
When i bought the Iroks on 15s i wasnt thinking about clearing the brakes. Im going to use the FROR full float kit on a gusseted stock tacoma axle.
I mocked up my rear brake set up and it will clear by at least a 1/4” so that was a relief. Still not sure if they will clear my FJ80 front with the later model bigger brakes. The rear brake set up uses 4th gen 4runner rear rotors and mustang COBRA caliper/pads with integrated e brake. Hoping this set up works well. I can always change to the integrated 4runner ebrake from FROR if im not happy but that set up costs a fair bit more. I was originally thinking of using 1st gen taco rotors on the rear. Nice thing about the 4runner rotors is no machining/grinding was necessary on the hubs to clear and these rotors are larger diameter than the taco fronts
|04-24-2019 07:47 AM|
|04-24-2019 06:58 AM|
|stephen wilson||I like it. Curious to see the details of your rear bed box install and lid. I plan to do the same thing with my '89 eventually, possibly with the inclusion of a hidden rear winch.|
|04-23-2019 11:31 PM|
Used plywood to mock up a few different shackle lengths. iirc i settled on 9" C to C. The shackles clear the frame by 3/8" each side. I might add some UHMW for them to rub on. I will see how things look once its driving.
I was planning to french the front hanger but if i ever get Deavers or something im gonna go with a reverse eye so i couldn't french much anyways
Boxed frame with 1/8” and redid the crossmembers. I was debating using 3/16” but considering the frame is less than 1/8” in the thickest spots and even thinner on that part of the older boxed frames, it seemed overkill and way more work. Everything was cut my trusty angle grinder, it wasn't as bad as i thought it would be.
Everything is just temporary/tacked because i plan to have the whole frame sandblasted and then paint inside the C channel before i seal it up.
The rear part of factory fuel tank was held up by a strap, but that would have been a lot of work to duplicate so i sandwiched the rear flange like the earlier pickups. 1 bolt goes though the flange and the other is just there for clamping force.
|04-18-2019 10:40 PM|
Frame all cleaned up. I used sawzall as much as possible, it beats eating sparks. Diablo carbide blades are great.
Mocking up the motor. Massaged the firewall a bit and pushed the motor as far back as possible. Had to notch the valve cover to clear brake booster so i can get the up travel i want. Shooting for 24” frame height on 37s with 5” uptravel. I realized the SC400 pan isnt gonna work, even if i modified the steel lower pan. The aluminum base is just too wide https://imgur.com/a/FhMVa5k
|04-17-2019 11:02 AM|
I had more time than money initially and winter is pretty boring, so i built a lot parts rather than buying.
Im going to run chev bump stops in these cans, but they will fit air bumps when i can upgrade
I prefabbed the shackles before i was sure of the length so they were left blank for awhile. Rear shackle hangers are going on top of the frame
I made U bolt eliminator perches because im expecting a lot of trial and error dialling in the leaf pack. Im using the chevy main leaf and a bunch of thinner leaves for the rest of pack and its just makes sense imo to use grade 8 bolts rather than u bolts.
When i did the diff cover/shave, i used a string line referenced to the pumpkin to keep track of any movement. It didnt move as far as i can tell. I am planning to check it with alignment bar eventually though. The 3rd member flange did warp a bit on both front and rear axles but it shouldn't be too difficult to fix
Im relocating the crossmembers and putting a box in place of the spare tire. The box will house dual batteries, air compressors and water storage pump. I will be cutting a hole in the bed and the cut out will become the lid of the box so it will look pretty factory and be water tight. Going to use a barrel lock and some gas charged shocks to push the lid open. Ive got all the details worked out for lid sealing/gaskets, but too much work to describe so wait and see. So much welding on that box, in hindsight i wish i had half welded everything and used seam sealer
|04-16-2019 09:20 PM|
|Kevin82||PS image hosting advice...is there a way (or company) for posting pics so they show up directly in forum? Without spending $|
|04-16-2019 09:03 PM|
Ive gotten so much off pirate over the years I figured I should give a little something back.
2003 2wd ext cab taco
1992 SC400 1UZ motor
FJ80 front, 4.10 Elocker with hellfire steering
Tacoma rear, 4.10 ARB with full float conversion
4WU 3 link or radius arm front (TBD)
64” chevs out back
1979 F150 reverse swing steering box
Dual batteries in rear underbed storage
OBA electric pump(s)
Underbed water storage (40 litres ish) with coolant heat exchanger for showers etc.
It will be my daily driver. Im building it to be a versatile rig for crawling and hauling. I do a fair bit of exploring, camping and occasionally harder trails. I will be driving it down to moab etc once she is done.
Original plan was some 34x10.5 ATs for DD, and 37s for wheelin but i really like snow wheelin so i jumped on a set of 39.5 iroks with internal beadlocks. So now im going to have 3 sets of tires. Keeping it as low as possible with 39.5 so it doesnt look retarded with 34s. I might have to lower the bumpstops when i put on the 39.5s to accomplish this
Unfortunately i don't have a shop of my own so im using a friends shop and i have to work around its availability. My truck is currently sitting in storage but i still have plenty of prep work i can do without having truck in shop.
I bought the axles about a year or so before i found the right truck for swap and started working on getting axles etc ready. I already have a bunch of pics from build, so pics will come fast until the thread is up to speed.
Picked up front axle from a wreckers
Rear axle. When i built the diff cover i massaged the factory cover to help with clearance for my cover, hence using playdoh to check for clearance
Still plenty more pics, but thats it for today