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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-12-2019 12:26 PM
DMANbluesfreak Hard to say if that highlighted area has a thin wall without opening up the case. My guess is that after the hole, the case void actually juts out into that area to keep the wall thickness from being too much (bad for casting) so you'll have to be careful with the trimming.

If you do get into the case, you'll have to plate it shut. Not a big deal, but you may need to empty the case to do so properly. Hopefully someone else can chime in if that can be clearanced.

No room to adjust the floor for more clearance?
11-12-2019 11:26 AM
06 H3 I definitely have some more trimming to do. I am probably 1/4in from the body. I am curious if I can do some light trimming on top of the NP205 in addition to the body.
11-12-2019 10:07 AM
DMANbluesfreak When I did my exhaust the first time after the SAS (from the collector back), it was around 1/4" from a heat shield bolt/stud. When I got bound up, I could feel it barely touching/vibrating against the tip of the bolt/stud. I ended up redoing the exhaust for the doubler and made sure to stay at least 1/2"-3/4" away from frame/body.

I imagine the exhaust coming off the collector moves around the same amount as a transfer case. As such, I'd leave at least 1/2", maybe 3/4" clearance just to be safe. Don't want to have to do the work twice! Since I shaved the 'foot' off my 205, it's inches away from the body - so the exhaust is still the closest thing.
11-12-2019 09:01 AM
06 H3 Update with no pics:

Got all 3 shifters mounted, coilovers, limit straps, and bumps all in. Gotta repair one bump. The threaded portion for the Delrin broke off from an impact.

I am currently cutting up the floor for the 205 doubler. How much room do you need in between the floor and top of the t case? Donít want to under do it and have movement impacting shifter use or hearing the case banging against the floor.
10-25-2019 09:05 AM
AccuTune Offroad
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
I always just lifted the factory case into place, I broke down and bought a little trans jack from HF because I donít think I could get that heavy SOB into place....how did you install yours? Lol
well worth the $80 (with coupon )
10-24-2019 09:37 PM
DMANbluesfreak Carefully with a floor jack and stacked wood to level it out. And ratchet straps. It was sketchy!

I bought a trans adapter for my floor jack after the first time struggling with it.
10-24-2019 07:21 AM
06 H3
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Looks like good progress! Good idea making the torsion bar crossmember removable from the start. The 205 is heavy enough and then you added another 40lbs or so haha.
I always just lifted the factory case into place, I broke down and bought a little trans jack from HF because I donít think I could get that heavy SOB into place....how did you install yours? Lol
10-23-2019 09:50 PM
DMANbluesfreak Looks like good progress! Good idea making the torsion bar crossmember removable from the start. The 205 is heavy enough and then you added another 40lbs or so haha.
10-23-2019 06:21 PM
06 H3 Update, got some stuff welded in!





Here is the cross brace on top of the motor, I would have loved to use bent tube at the top of the coilover hoop but my bender cant make a tight enough radius so by the time I have a straight piece to weld in the removable clamps it was already over the motor if that makes sense. This is before I fully welded it in on the coilover hoops as well.



The start of mocking up air bump mounts



More tube...



Still need to make a landing pad for the air bump.

Checking clearances...



Got the 205 doubler together.



Pulled the H3 case and you can see the shifter cables on the 205. That H3 case has been through HELL AND BACK. The best and beefiest component on the H3 IMO.



Changed the 5 bolt 4l60E adapter to the 6 bolt and started mocking up the t case.



The overall length of the 205 doubler and H3 case are about the same. The issue is when removing the H3 case I push it back over the factory torsion bar crossmember and then let the front end of the case come down first and out it goes. With this HEAVY 205 it is much tougher to do is. In an effort to make my rig very serviceable anywhere I am I am cutting the center 12-14in of the old torsion bar crossmember out and will make plates that allow the center of the crossmember removable. This will keep the rigidity of the crossmember but still allow for easier removal when working on the tcase or trans.

That's where I am at! Still need to weld in the air bump mounts, make axle landing pads for the air bumps, sway bar end links for the front sway bar. Weld in the frame side lower control arm mounts, make new links, mount limit straps mount the battery in a new location, get all the other crap back in the engine bay, mount shifters, get driveshafts, and test drive it before thanksgiving so I can drive it 900 miles to so cal to have thanksgiving with family and then go play at HAMMERS!!!
10-11-2019 02:45 PM
Dan90FSB Nice update, Chris. Sounds like you've got a new setup coming together in Idaho, congrats! I figured it was just a matter of time until we saw coilovers on this thing.
09-23-2019 11:34 AM
DMANbluesfreak Progress is good! Sounds like the right choice not to notch the frame since there are other areas that would have needed massaging.
09-22-2019 09:06 AM
06 H3 Update, I was able to notch the housing and move the track bar and drag link to get about 1/2in more uptravel at that point 3rd link was hitting exhaust and almost to the engine block and other things so notching the frame didn't make sense.

Here's some pics.



mock up....Still need to clean up the edges







As you can see the tube is angled the wrong way, that was done due to space. It gets tight. If it was angled straight up and down the tube would hit the brake booster, Ideally stretching the wheelbase would give me more room but I don't want to stretch the wheelbase. I will offset the tabs on the tube so I make sure the coilover is mounted straight up and down, not raked forward.

I also have some plateed artec coilover mounts I may try to mock up, we will see where that gets me but progress is being made!
09-09-2019 07:26 AM
DMANbluesfreak In the grand scheme of things, it's not THAT much extra work. I think once it's done, you'll decide it was worth doing - though you won't have the comparison I suppose.
09-08-2019 09:34 PM
06 H3 Update:

Got all settled in and these showed up.



Pulled the shocks and coil buckets



Cut off most of the old brackets and frame brackets



New track bar setup should add about 5-5.5in of length!



Got axle back in at full bump and for mock up, lower link brackets are as far outboard as possible on the axle and inboard a few inches on the frame. Here is where things get interesting. Ram needs to be remounted in a different area.



At full bump I can get an extra 1in of uptravel but it would require remounting ram (which I need to do regardless) flip the tie rod under the knuckle to avoid it hitting pitman arm, notch the frame 1.25in for the pumpkin to clear, and the draglink and track bar to clear. Then the limiting factor is the motor instead of the things listed above.

I am at the point where I don't know if its worth chopping 1.25in out of the frame in a 10in section and plate back in with 1/4in. the original SAS had given so much improvement for some work, I am not sure all this work is worth 1in of uptravel ( or 1in lower ride height.) I am shooting for 5-6in of uptravel and this could give me 6-7in or lower ride height.

I'll decide and think about it when I am gone. I will be at ridgecrest pitting for my buddy racing in Ultra 4.
08-10-2019 08:23 PM
06 H3 Update:

Got squeaky up to Idaho. It was about a 600 mile trek and with my spare driveshaft that was dented I had vibes over 65. So I slowly drove 65 all. the. way. there....It sucked! She did make it in one piece though so that is what matters.

The garage height is much higher here so that's a plus! Before I was just about maxed out on 40's and getting in the garage. This just means maybe 43s could be in my future

First time in the garage....



3rd Car



Shot of the little shop space behind the 3rd car.

Then I have this little "cubby" covered area that I have stored all my tires, rollers for when I want baby tires on it, winter set of rims for my fiancť. Then a Shed that is attached to the house that houses my spare 3rd members, transmissions, transfer cases, leaf springs, fab parts, etc.

Storage







Luckily I got it all set up, I am super excited with the added space I now have! 2 220 outlets have been added and then I had to move everything back out, had the floor epoxied and will have the clear coat on tomorrow.



Nothing really hummer related but it will make hummer work easier with new room I have.

I did swap a valve stem I destroyed on the rubicon and got my beadlock back on the right rear and I went down to a 4x4 meet about 10 min from the house and met some local 4x4 guys. It was mainly JKs but I did meet 2 guys with built rock crawlers and said they will gladly take me out to see the gnarly rock trails they have. It definitely reminds me of Nevada in the sense that the trails are meant to stay on the DL from a location standpoint so no yahoo's get the trails shut down.

Once the epoxy gets cured I can actually start work on the Hummer!

Since I will be redoing my lower link placement for better numbers I am at the point where I am contemplating a small subframe from mayhem metal works like he does on his Toyota link kit. It will allow me to get not only better numbers then before but ideal numbers and a better behaving suspension but I am fearful of the ground clearance loss. It wouldn't be an U4 12+in subframe but only a couple inches deep. Andrew is telling me the gains in a better suspension and a true flat belly will be worth and negate the clearance loss.

Thoughts?

Lastly, people here are so damn nice!!!! I almost forgot how nice people can be after living in CA for 13 years. Not everyone is like that but it seems for every 1 nice person in CA there's 10 in Idaho.

oh wait....I live here now, it sucks don't move here
07-10-2019 08:56 AM
AccuTune Offroad
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
I plan to give you a call once I get moved and settled in a few months.

Rubicon was fun! I am going back this weekend. Bring your swimming gear for Fordyce, I saw the pics and its deep!
Right on, good luck with the move! That garage space sounds awesome!

Yea, kinda worried about Foryce. Last year was deep, but I think this year will be worse. Although, last year I was only on 37s, not 40s

-Mike
07-10-2019 08:02 AM
06 H3
Quote:
Originally Posted by AccuTune Offroad View Post
Coilovers! I know a guy that can help with that

Rubicon looks like it was fun, I'll be up there running Fordyce & Rubicon in just a few weeks.
I plan to give you a call once I get moved and settled in a few months.

Rubicon was fun! I am going back this weekend. Bring your swimming gear for Fordyce, I saw the pics and its deep!
07-09-2019 04:46 PM
AccuTune Offroad Coilovers! I know a guy that can help with that

Rubicon looks like it was fun, I'll be up there running Fordyce & Rubicon in just a few weeks.
07-06-2019 10:19 PM
06 H3 Took out a driveshaft on old sluice, the 1350 shaft is over 6 years old so maybe it was just time...I will probably upgrade to 1410 though. I put a hole through the floor so I now have to fix that. I had a spare and was rolling again in 10 min.





We met up with my buddy from so cal who came out a few days earlier and he broke a rear shaft going up old sluice and I towed him up old sluice and then near little sluice he sheered all 5 studs off his non broken rear shaft...he had 2 spare studs and got those in. He then had to leave his jeep in idle and I pulled dead weight all the way back to Loon. Squeaky to the rescue!

These views never get old.



Great night sleep...and I am honest lol



I am going back to the rubicon next weekend for a Saturday sunday deal. I just did a refresh on my brother's JK so if he goes I will take the H3, if he doesn't I will take that to make sure all is well before I take off to Idaho.

After the rubicon, I have a 500 mile drive to Idaho in squeaky. Gotta get the garage situated. 220 outlets, setup shop and Epoxy the floors this time!!!! I wish I could just get to wheeling and meet fellow Idahoan's but I gotta get her tore down for coilovers as these coil buckets aren't getting any straighter.
07-06-2019 10:18 PM
06 H3 Update: Man, life has been crazy. House in Sacramento area is sold and a house in Meridian, ID has been bought, we get the keys in a few weeks.

We are going from a 2 car garage with RV parking to a 3 car garage that is RV depth on the 3rd car garage and then also goes behind the 2 car wall that is a little shop area. Taller garage doors and ceilings from what I can tell. I took the drive over with the 6x10 trailer and work car. I will do the drive in the hummer in about 2 weeks. I have been living either in a hotel for work, down in so cal with my parents, in lodi with my brother or sometimes in a sleeping bag on the rubicon! I cant wait to get back to a normal life.

Anyways, back to the Hummer. I installed a premier power welder and have parts accumulating!



Making the bracket.







I really need to tack in a better position, it always fucks up the bead when I hit it.

I don't have a picture of it in its final resting spot but I will get one. It worked great but for some reason the alternator stopped charging the battery on the rubicon. Luckily I had my stock one and was able to swap it in quickly. I need to call them and get that taken care of.

Here are some parts I am accumulating



New lower link brackets (frame and axle end) a couple of coilover mounts for different options and a new frame side track bar bracket.

The goal is to do coilovers and ditch the ever bending coil buckets, get a longer track bar by bringing it on the outside of the frame rail (gain about 4-5 inches in length) and inboard my lowers on the frame and outboard them on the axle end to lower my roll axis angle. I also got baby heims to build sway bar end links for the front sway bar.

Currently, my links are almost further apart on the frame end then the axle end, I am sure bringing them inboard will help a ton for on road stability but bringing them inboard I have to decide either lose about 2in of link separation on the frame end to keep a flat belly or lose 2in of belly clearance. What's your thoughts?

I also hit the rubicon one weekend



I've done soup bowl a number of times but this time was the easiest. I just about idled up where in the past it took a bump.

My buddy's yota...



06-09-2019 04:52 PM
Dan90FSB That last pic is awesome.

Another vote for coilovers. As you've said... packaging is easier, (almost) infinite tune-ability, and so on.

You actually use the truck so there shouldn't be any concern around having done it because its "cool"
05-14-2019 10:19 PM
06 H3 Then we ran turkey claw and off to blueberry. Blueberry was a non issue except the optional waterfall. Last time the 1st gen on stickies hit the line we ended up in a hour long shit show winch fest that took 3 winches, snatch blocks and a hi lift all working simultaneously. This time I was the idiot to try.



YEAH....that went well.... I had the line according to the guys but my back tire slipped and I thought my cage would get used. They said if I had sticky tires I wouldn't have slipped but I don't trailer so no stickies for me. Anyways I aired up an hour after that incident and drove 472 miles home.

What's next?

Got a premier power welder. Gotta install that. I got a smoking UA hook up on it. York compressor because I want something fast and that doesn't run out.

Then NP205 doubler and coilovers (I think)

I think I am at the point for coilovers. Its not because the coil springs don't perform. Its because having air bumps in the coil worries me about ruining the coil buckets from the load. Also having air bumpers in the coil had made working on it and tearing it apart a much bigger pain in the ass. I like serviceability. We will see....Ditching coil buckets and coil springs can get me a longer track bar as well as better stability due to coilover positioning and I can lower my roll axis angle by triangulating my lower links more. The rig obviously works as is. I have put over 40,000 miles on the SAS and drive 80-85 mph frequently in it but I want to see how much I can improve it. The coilovers aren't for better ride or tunability it just gives me more space to enhance other things.

I am moving again for work so squeaky will have another 400 miles drive or so to the new place then the wrenching can begin.
05-14-2019 10:19 PM
06 H3
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakesz28 View Post
Man this has really gone threw different stages of the build. I have not been on any forums in a long time. Can't believe all the places you have taken this. Cool build.
Thanks, it sure has!

Its time to bump this again. Since Hammers I got the shocks revalved. I went way stiffer on the rear and a little bit stiffer on the front. I am just about ready to give that setup a goodbye and throw coilovers on it and be done. I will get into that later.

First I went to Prairie city for the U4 Metalcloak race. I live 15-20 min from there now so a few buddy's came out along with my buddy racing, hung out at my house then cruised over for the race. Hummer didn't get much action other then climbing some concrete thing but it was fun watching the races!





After that I got some chevy 63's and cut them down and used them as an add a leaf between the main and 2nd leaf. I am thrilled with the handling but not as thrilled with the additional ride height. The 63 main leaf cut down is quite a bit thicker and longer then the 2nd leaf on the H3 pack. I am curious if I ditch the 2nd leaf and keep the 63 how much the stiffness will change and drop the ride height. I am not sure but I am consider experimenting with it. Ideally it would be lower ride height no stiffness change. It went up about an inch.



After getting the shocks and add a leaf done I started a beautification process on squeaky. The bumpers needed some spray paint to be touched up and look all pretty again as well as cutting down the factory plastic rocker panel pieces to give it that factory look again.





Much prettier.

After that I drove it 472 miles to Hammers, beat the shit out of it, almost rolled it and drove it 472 miles home! Exactly what I built it for.



Next time I wash the hummer with full doors I need to remember wash the half doors too....lol

Ran Chocolate thunder Friday night, then Sledge and Full of hate Saturday then Turkeyclaw and blueberry Sunday morning.



It was me, and 4 first gen Toyotas and 1 unicorn 4runner with the factory solid axle and EFI. All had the typical stuff. 37s, dual cases, lockers, trailered, 1 had sticky tires, etc.

Sledgehammer carnage was a driveshaft on one of the Toyotas which was repairable. I didn't get the plaque and had to winch up it Out of the 6 rigs 3 made it 3 winched.

After that we get back to camp and one of the 1st gen's had something feeling weird, stripped almost all hub studs and 2 knuckle studs. So we repaired that at camp.

Then one 1st gen and I ran full of hate at night!! It was gnarly. Most of it was ok, we had to bypass the squeeze (First gen could barely fit) and the last 100 yards is a straight winch fest with the waterfall being so damn steep.

Funny meme of the Hummer....

05-13-2019 08:57 AM
jakesz28 Man this has really gone threw different stages of the build. I have not been on any forums in a long time. Can't believe all the places you have taken this. Cool build.
04-13-2019 12:56 PM
Lugnutt I think it would be fine as long as the truck is 2700ish pounds on the front axle, of if more the piggyback strut is made for heavier vehicles as far as I can tell. But I could be wrong. Of course I don't know the weight of the truck currently
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