|Today 03:13 PM|
|06 H3||These damn Hummers are complicated at times what did you do for yours?|
|Today 02:06 PM|
|DMANbluesfreak||Neat! Sounds like your system is more complicated than the ones they put in the trucks of similar years. I like the ability to start in any gear you select. When in drive, mine sometimes decides it wants to start in 2nd until I give it a little throttle and in double low, this is quite the lurch haha.|
|Today 12:51 PM|
Update: I left my rig down south for about a month as I went to NY for Christmas and was traveling for work. I went down last weekend, pulled the case and found out I have a bad planetary. I did notice when I put it in but didn't think it was an issue, it had some play in the case and got worse with the wrong bearing in there. Got it all swapped out and I am hoping and praying it's fixed! I will be heading down for KOH and have 130 mile drive, I guess I will find out then I also swapped out my ram assist cylinder because it was bent and did yet another new tie rod since that's like the 7th one I have bent. I had issues with the aluminum one I did but eventually I will go back to that route.
My big issue: I installed a doubler transfer case. 1:1, 1.96:1, 2.72:1, 5.33:1. Its actually not an issue, itís a badass setup that will greatly improve capability! It does causes issues, but I know they can be overcome.
My VSS is in a similar position to factory, itís in the tail housing of the transfer case. Most guys that have done LS swaps in their jeeps have this issue too so to remedy it they put the VSS in the tailhousing of the trans so it always reads 1:1. I donít want to do that, gotta pull the trans apart, drill and tap the tailhousing, etc. It isnít a big deal if your doing it during the swap but to pull it all back out is a pain. The issue occurs that the VSS is seeing reduction in the tailhousing because the tcase is in low but the computer thinks itís in 4 high. It freaks the **** out and cuts power, shifts weird, almost like a limp mode.
My original plan was to just bolt the encoder motor off the frame rail, push the 4low button so the computer knows itís in 4low and we move on. Well I got too excited and drove it around and broke my encoder motor because I didnít mount it. I kind of forgot that I left it on a skid plate and it bounced around. Instead of buying a new encoder motor to play dumb I want to actually fix it with a real solution.
So I hit the interwebs and found there is a 4low signal (Iíll post the wiring diagram) how it works is the encoder motor has wiring that goes to the TCCM (transfer case control module) behind the glove box. It then has an output that goes to the pcm that says ďhey pcm! Iím in 4 lowĒ then an output/input class 2 data wire that goes to the DIC, from what I understand it illuminates the lights and shows your 4 low button lighting up, your traction control off and stabilitrac off on the DIC and the traction light on the dash.
So to trigger the pcm 4 low signal it needs to be grounded out, so I bought a 2 prong switch, tapped into the wire between the TCCM and PCM and ground it out.
So I flip the switch and nothing on the dash lights up. I figured that may be the case. Since I tapped into the 4low switch in front of the tccm so it canít trigger the DIC so my question is, does the pcm see a 4 low signal and cut out stabilitrac and traction control too but doesnít illuminate it because the ground is after the TCCM? Or does it tell the pcm ďuse your 4 low shift tablesĒ but leave traction control and stabilitrac engaged? I hope it disables it but doesnít illuminate because I donít want that crap on when in low range and the factory shuts it off in low range anyways.
With all that said, I would like to get the lights to illuminate when itís all said and done so it looks factory but for next week I just need it to work whether the lights show up or not. I will be doing 3 days of backdoor KOH recovery. Rolling rigs over, and extracting broken ones out after the race. Then multiple days of wheeling.
On another unrelated note, I did install a RADesigns mini rail shifter and TCC lockup. Since I have so many options hearing wise now I want to be able to start in any gear. I tapped into the TCM wiring with a on/on 6 prong switch. It allows factory control like a stock H3 with the toggle down and in the up position it gives me full manual control. If I want to start in 4th gear, I can start in 4th, itís like a full manual valve body but still retains OE functions! Then for TCC lock up I have a on/off/on 3 prong switch. Toggle down is factory torque converter lock up, toggle in the middle is TC lock up is off, toggle up is TC lock up when I want it to. The more control I have when wheeling the better. Then flip both the switches to factory and it will allow any one to drive it like a normal vehicle.
|01-17-2020 05:50 PM|
|12-17-2019 08:26 AM|
|12-17-2019 06:59 AM|
|12-16-2019 09:13 PM|
2 post update....#1 is above.
After the plaque that big boulder moved under my tire and caused this
The tight left turn I should have gotten my first try, I had the right line and literally just stopped and backed up, pure stupidity on my part. This damn trail is my nemesis but I am glad I am finally up the plaque unassisted.
Then we went up "3rd canyon of sledge" it was very steep and loose but fun!
I dented my tie rod bad and my ram...damn it!
After that we went exploring and down a sand hill to bloody mary and that's when things got bad. First off the damn doubler started popping out of gear, didn't matter if it was high or low range. Then I realized my computer was going hay wire since it wouldn't recognize I was in low range.
I still had the encoder motor plugged in but it wouldnt go into low range. The encoder motor was attached to the back of the factory case. I would let it shift even though nothing is attached to it and go into low. I think the encoder motor coincidentally died after pulling my old case. So with no real way to be shifting gears I dealt with the computer going haywire and literally had to winch HUNDREDS of feet out of this sand hill. It took hours and it sucked really bad. After that we got back to camp and the weather sucked, feeling pist off and not wanting to deal with weather we left to head to my buddy's house about 90 miles away. On the way to his house the damn doubler kept popping out of low. eventually we just towed it to his place. My plan was to leave it there anyway and fly home and come back in January for another run and then KOH, then drive it back. Now I am going to pull the case the weekend I go back.
I spoke with Behemoth and he thinks it's one or two things, the snap ring for the front input let loose and is allowing it to walk in the housing or we found out I have the narrower width bearing when I need the wide double row bearing which is 4mm thicker and allowing the case to walk around. THIS IS WHY I SHOULD HAVE GOTTEN A DONOR CASE instead of mixing and matching but I got a super good free deal which was cool and appealing but now I know. The reason we don't think its the shifter is because when you hold the lever with your hand and let it run in neutral you feel like the shifter hub is walking back and forth. I was told the input snap rings stretch and since I had to swap the planetary's I had that in and out a couple times. So when I fly to my buddy's in January I will bring the right bearing and a new snap ring. I will ship him a new DIY Tie rod to weld up and a new ram so she's ready for KOH. I will wire in a switch to ground out the 4wd signal to the PCM so this computer stops freaking out. Probably easier then doing a new VSS in the back of the trans or something.
After those struggles I felt defeated and angry. I felt like my rig is too big, heavy and dumb for the hammers and I should build a late 80's square body S10 since they are little and light but after a good night sleep I am ready to keep pushing the big rig! The last time I felt that way was when I was stock and broke a tie rod and questioned should I sell the H3 and buy a jeep. Luckily both times a good night sleep will snap me out of those thoughts. they are growing pains from a shakedown run that you deal with when building a rig not many others build.
The key takeaways were driving 840 miles successfully, getting the plaque on sledge and a new suspension that feels MUCH better.
|12-16-2019 09:12 PM|
2 post update: I got the hummer done and running. It was with a lot of BS but it went on it's maiden voyage.
Here it is all mounted up with coilovers, air bumps, etc.
Flexing out each side to get limit straps set.
Getting the engine bay back together.
Battery was a tight fit
Trying to get organized, I love these action packers!
I built a new intake for it, I don't have pics of that right now.
Then the drama started, I went out to test drive it and had HORRENDOUS noises. It was the rear output that was making the noise. After pulling the rear output atleast 3 times I finally found that the little needle bearings that are the pilot to the rear output were not in the case! Because I had the 205 laying around so long waiting for the doubler I had it sitting for so long I must have forgot to put those 15 little needle bearings in. What a pain....So I got that back together and made the noise MUCH better but still noise was present.
I then found out I had an old style ring gear and a new style planetary. Wonderful....This is why your best to get a donor case and not mix/match these parts. So out came the entire t case again to swap in a old style planetary. I still needed a skid plate and a lot of little odds and ends so I decided to not bring the hummer to so cal for thanksgiving even though I got it driving.
Went to hammers to spot, spectate and hangout with friends but definitely missed squeaky.
Made a DIY 20lb powertank for under $250 which was sweet!
Got home and got back to working on her and finished it up. I then had a 2 way plane ticket for this past weekend because the plan was to fly in for 2 hammer trips with my buddy before his wife had their first baby. I cancelled the boise to so cal flight and kept the so cal to boise flight home. I hopped in the hummer and drove 840 miles to hammers after putting a whopping 17 miles on her at home. Crazy or stupidity, you pick.
Started to hit some bad weather on the way through Wells, NV.
Eastern Nevada is DESOLATE. Man, breaking down in NV has got to be a scary nightmare. I took the 93 all the way down to Vegas.
Stopped in Vegas to say hi to my Toyota friends.
They are down for six shooter knuckles on one and a 3 link on the other.
Hit another milestone
Got to hammers and just messed around in the desert for 30 minutes or so testing the new suspension. It is leaps and bounds BETTER! Much less body roll, the true 6in of uptravel is very welcomed in the desert and overall very happy with initial impressions.
Went to sleep to tackle Sledgehammer in the morning.
Sledge is a tough trail for me, It seems to be that one trail that just fucks me everytime. I never got the plaque, when I almost had it I broke a shaft climbing it, or winch but this time, I got it! No rock stacking just a few attempts and got it!
|11-12-2019 12:26 PM|
Hard to say if that highlighted area has a thin wall without opening up the case. My guess is that after the hole, the case void actually juts out into that area to keep the wall thickness from being too much (bad for casting) so you'll have to be careful with the trimming.
If you do get into the case, you'll have to plate it shut. Not a big deal, but you may need to empty the case to do so properly. Hopefully someone else can chime in if that can be clearanced.
No room to adjust the floor for more clearance?
|11-12-2019 11:26 AM|
|06 H3||I definitely have some more trimming to do. I am probably 1/4in from the body. I am curious if I can do some light trimming on top of the NP205 in addition to the body.|
|11-12-2019 10:07 AM|
When I did my exhaust the first time after the SAS (from the collector back), it was around 1/4" from a heat shield bolt/stud. When I got bound up, I could feel it barely touching/vibrating against the tip of the bolt/stud. I ended up redoing the exhaust for the doubler and made sure to stay at least 1/2"-3/4" away from frame/body.
I imagine the exhaust coming off the collector moves around the same amount as a transfer case. As such, I'd leave at least 1/2", maybe 3/4" clearance just to be safe. Don't want to have to do the work twice! Since I shaved the 'foot' off my 205, it's inches away from the body - so the exhaust is still the closest thing.
|11-12-2019 09:01 AM|
Update with no pics:
Got all 3 shifters mounted, coilovers, limit straps, and bumps all in. Gotta repair one bump. The threaded portion for the Delrin broke off from an impact.
I am currently cutting up the floor for the 205 doubler. How much room do you need in between the floor and top of the t case? Donít want to under do it and have movement impacting shifter use or hearing the case banging against the floor.
|10-25-2019 09:05 AM|
|10-24-2019 09:37 PM|
Carefully with a floor jack and stacked wood to level it out. And ratchet straps. It was sketchy!
I bought a trans adapter for my floor jack after the first time struggling with it.
|10-24-2019 07:21 AM|
|10-23-2019 09:50 PM|
|DMANbluesfreak||Looks like good progress! Good idea making the torsion bar crossmember removable from the start. The 205 is heavy enough and then you added another 40lbs or so haha.|
|10-23-2019 06:21 PM|
Update, got some stuff welded in!
Here is the cross brace on top of the motor, I would have loved to use bent tube at the top of the coilover hoop but my bender cant make a tight enough radius so by the time I have a straight piece to weld in the removable clamps it was already over the motor if that makes sense. This is before I fully welded it in on the coilover hoops as well.
The start of mocking up air bump mounts
Still need to make a landing pad for the air bump.
Got the 205 doubler together.
Pulled the H3 case and you can see the shifter cables on the 205. That H3 case has been through HELL AND BACK. The best and beefiest component on the H3 IMO.
Changed the 5 bolt 4l60E adapter to the 6 bolt and started mocking up the t case.
The overall length of the 205 doubler and H3 case are about the same. The issue is when removing the H3 case I push it back over the factory torsion bar crossmember and then let the front end of the case come down first and out it goes. With this HEAVY 205 it is much tougher to do is. In an effort to make my rig very serviceable anywhere I am I am cutting the center 12-14in of the old torsion bar crossmember out and will make plates that allow the center of the crossmember removable. This will keep the rigidity of the crossmember but still allow for easier removal when working on the tcase or trans.
That's where I am at! Still need to weld in the air bump mounts, make axle landing pads for the air bumps, sway bar end links for the front sway bar. Weld in the frame side lower control arm mounts, make new links, mount limit straps mount the battery in a new location, get all the other crap back in the engine bay, mount shifters, get driveshafts, and test drive it before thanksgiving so I can drive it 900 miles to so cal to have thanksgiving with family and then go play at HAMMERS!!!
|10-11-2019 02:45 PM|
|Dan90FSB||Nice update, Chris. Sounds like you've got a new setup coming together in Idaho, congrats! I figured it was just a matter of time until we saw coilovers on this thing.|
|09-23-2019 11:34 AM|
|DMANbluesfreak||Progress is good! Sounds like the right choice not to notch the frame since there are other areas that would have needed massaging.|
|09-22-2019 09:06 AM|
Update, I was able to notch the housing and move the track bar and drag link to get about 1/2in more uptravel at that point 3rd link was hitting exhaust and almost to the engine block and other things so notching the frame didn't make sense.
Here's some pics.
mock up....Still need to clean up the edges
As you can see the tube is angled the wrong way, that was done due to space. It gets tight. If it was angled straight up and down the tube would hit the brake booster, Ideally stretching the wheelbase would give me more room but I don't want to stretch the wheelbase. I will offset the tabs on the tube so I make sure the coilover is mounted straight up and down, not raked forward.
I also have some plateed artec coilover mounts I may try to mock up, we will see where that gets me but progress is being made!
|09-09-2019 07:26 AM|
|DMANbluesfreak||In the grand scheme of things, it's not THAT much extra work. I think once it's done, you'll decide it was worth doing - though you won't have the comparison I suppose.|
|09-08-2019 09:34 PM|
Got all settled in and these showed up.
Pulled the shocks and coil buckets
Cut off most of the old brackets and frame brackets
New track bar setup should add about 5-5.5in of length!
Got axle back in at full bump and for mock up, lower link brackets are as far outboard as possible on the axle and inboard a few inches on the frame. Here is where things get interesting. Ram needs to be remounted in a different area.
At full bump I can get an extra 1in of uptravel but it would require remounting ram (which I need to do regardless) flip the tie rod under the knuckle to avoid it hitting pitman arm, notch the frame 1.25in for the pumpkin to clear, and the draglink and track bar to clear. Then the limiting factor is the motor instead of the things listed above.
I am at the point where I don't know if its worth chopping 1.25in out of the frame in a 10in section and plate back in with 1/4in. the original SAS had given so much improvement for some work, I am not sure all this work is worth 1in of uptravel ( or 1in lower ride height.) I am shooting for 5-6in of uptravel and this could give me 6-7in or lower ride height.
I'll decide and think about it when I am gone. I will be at ridgecrest pitting for my buddy racing in Ultra 4.
|08-10-2019 08:23 PM|
Got squeaky up to Idaho. It was about a 600 mile trek and with my spare driveshaft that was dented I had vibes over 65. So I slowly drove 65 all. the. way. there....It sucked! She did make it in one piece though so that is what matters.
The garage height is much higher here so that's a plus! Before I was just about maxed out on 40's and getting in the garage. This just means maybe 43s could be in my future
First time in the garage....
Shot of the little shop space behind the 3rd car.
Then I have this little "cubby" covered area that I have stored all my tires, rollers for when I want baby tires on it, winter set of rims for my fiancť. Then a Shed that is attached to the house that houses my spare 3rd members, transmissions, transfer cases, leaf springs, fab parts, etc.
Luckily I got it all set up, I am super excited with the added space I now have! 2 220 outlets have been added and then I had to move everything back out, had the floor epoxied and will have the clear coat on tomorrow.
Nothing really hummer related but it will make hummer work easier with new room I have.
I did swap a valve stem I destroyed on the rubicon and got my beadlock back on the right rear and I went down to a 4x4 meet about 10 min from the house and met some local 4x4 guys. It was mainly JKs but I did meet 2 guys with built rock crawlers and said they will gladly take me out to see the gnarly rock trails they have. It definitely reminds me of Nevada in the sense that the trails are meant to stay on the DL from a location standpoint so no yahoo's get the trails shut down.
Once the epoxy gets cured I can actually start work on the Hummer!
Since I will be redoing my lower link placement for better numbers I am at the point where I am contemplating a small subframe from mayhem metal works like he does on his Toyota link kit. It will allow me to get not only better numbers then before but ideal numbers and a better behaving suspension but I am fearful of the ground clearance loss. It wouldn't be an U4 12+in subframe but only a couple inches deep. Andrew is telling me the gains in a better suspension and a true flat belly will be worth and negate the clearance loss.
Lastly, people here are so damn nice!!!! I almost forgot how nice people can be after living in CA for 13 years. Not everyone is like that but it seems for every 1 nice person in CA there's 10 in Idaho.
oh wait....I live here now, it sucks don't move here
|07-10-2019 08:56 AM|
Yea, kinda worried about Foryce. Last year was deep, but I think this year will be worse. Although, last year I was only on 37s, not 40s
|07-10-2019 08:02 AM|
Rubicon was fun! I am going back this weekend. Bring your swimming gear for Fordyce, I saw the pics and its deep!
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