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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-16-2012 09:37 PM
JESSE_at_TLT Anything ever come of this?
06-07-2008 01:30 PM
rustywagoneersdotcom Umm... how about, launch in second....

with an 800 horse 385 series Ford, I bet the power-band would be wide enough.

The main reason the powerglide is such a popular drag transmission is that a 7000 rpm engine needs to go through the traps at about 7000 rpm, which requires X amount of rear axle ratio for any given tire size. But too much first gear just anhilates the tires, so you run a glide with a 1.76, 1.82, or 1.96-ish first gear (even if it is a clutch-glide) so that you can get the car off the line without blowing the tires off it.

google up 'slat grille willys' and you will find everything you ever wanted to know about them.
My brother restores the WW2 stuff, you should see his stockpile of 'F' script bolts.

peace
Dave


EDIT - pass drop, you can just put a ford input gear into a GM case... that would be pass drop, but I do see the point about moving some weight rearward. There are (kinda rare) Divorced Ford NP203's - You could put that stuff into a GM, OR, cut up a TH350 ouput shaft and make an input bearing retainer/seal housing, put a yoke on the cut TH350 output, and 'viola' divorced NP203. ( I have a friend who did a setup just like this for a home-made 4wd tractor )
06-07-2008 12:52 AM
wyldstallyn73 I am not going to say it is impossible, but I dont really think it will work shifting from low to high on the roll- those T-cases werent designed for that kind of shenanigans.

I would definitely consider keeping the rangebox if I were doing it(and I have considered this, just not with the full time capability) The range box is fairly insignificant when you consider how heavy the entire case is.
06-07-2008 12:29 AM
TimIacobucci I was just doing some math and with 33" tires and 2.5:1 differential gearing the stock toploader gearing might work in the 1/4. It will be nutso in first gear with an effective 5:1 gearing after the trans but the top end would be good for nearly 150mph in 1:1 last gear still in low range.

Top gear in high range goes to nearly 300mph. Talk about overdrive, I could run a 1/4 mile and boneville on the same setup.
06-07-2008 12:03 AM
TimIacobucci
Quote:
I realize this is kind of stepping backwards into the thread, but if you decided to run the 203 with the rangebox and using low for drag racing then high for road driving like you mentioned earlier, the idea of the custom front axle (9inch center with D44 knuckles) would enable you to get more gearing options- earlier you asked about 9 inch gearing options, well, if I am not mistaken, the D44 axles with the low pinion can only go as high (low?) as 3.08. I believe the high pinion can get a bit more with a 3.00. The Ford 9 is easy to find 2.75's for and some of the mid-late 70's luxo-barges ran 2.50 gears.
Hehe, I actually drive a 75 lincoln everyday and know all about those gears. That is a damn good point about the 9" but are there any cv joints available for the d44? Also what is the lowest gear I could find for a fj-80?
Quote:
I have lots of waggy D44 fronts with 2.73's... that would pair up pretty nicely with a 2.75 rear (keep the front rolling a hair faster). With the NP203 in low-range (1.98 to 1) that makes 5.50's.... 1/8th miler big block.....
That is cool, it wouldnít make any difference with the center diff open on the street anyhow. But I really want to run the 1/4. I kept coming up with great 1/8 mile gearing too for the low end but that isnít really what I wanna do.

So do you guys think keeping the range box would be worth trying out? I think it could be cool as hell, especially after I read about how smooth people said it shifted when it is dual stick, does anyone have any experiences shifting this range box on the fly? Even in a 203/205 doubler?

Would it be totally crazy to think I might be able to declutch and hit it like a dog box mid quarter after my 1/8 mile gearing runs out?
06-06-2008 11:51 PM
TimIacobucci Tim that beetle is totally badass. I had come across it before and there was another similar one in a recent hot rod magazine article. It kept the rear drive air cooled engine, just hanging out the back. Is that considered a suicide rear end? I hope I don't get a call from hot rod for posting copyrighted stuff here.




Quote:
I think the locked (203 derivative) will be fine road racing. Run really REALLY good lube. But, effectively on every single corner you will have enough slip at each wheel to keep it from ever getting bound up. AND, even if a solid lock, front-to-back, 50/50 torque split may not be very technologically advanced, at least it will be consistent. It will do the same thing every time. As you get more used to the car, you can build yourself a second range-box-less 203 and get a fancy shmancy posi/torsen diff and machine a case to put it into the 203 (well, maybe).
Haha I thought about what I would take. The carrier has enough beef I think it could be machined for the torsen gears. I do think it will work fine and unless I am convinced the audi case will be super bad ass and I can actually get one the 203 is most likely what I am going to do at this point.

I also am thinking like you said the max cornering force is independent of how the wheels are driven, and corner exit will most likely be way more effected by weight transfer and the vehicles overall response to torque input with a locked center or a torsen. So I think suspension tuning will have a greater effect on under/over steer on corner exit and such than sheer torque bias.

I am thinking for corner exit it will either want to

A. grip harder on the front and pull the front out of the turn with less weight transferring to the rear cause a lack of traction at the back causing oversteer or

B. grip harder in the rear and try to lift the front end and plow the front causing understeer.

A drag setup will probably do B. so a less wheelstand happy suspension setting will probably be needed to make it behave like A for turning corners as I HATE understeer.

Quote:
When the SCCA had a minitruck class, the Archer brothers kicked mucho butt. With a beam front axle in an MJ (comanche). Why did the greater unsprung weight of the 'old-tech' solid axle win? ZERO camber change on body roll. The truck did the exact same thing every time. Bumps, no bumps, whatever.
HAHA! Sweeeet. This is exactly what I was thinking. I read that indy used solid front axles up to 66. Everyone keeps telling me it is going to handle like shit without independent front suspension but ZERO camber change is something they know nothing about. And like I said with proper wheel backspacing I can have permenant ZERO scub radius on those monster front tires too, hehe another 2 things they know nothing about. This should be interesting.
Quote:
Regarding the 'car' toploader, or Jericho.... I was just thinking... aren't Ford cars 31-spline output?
Yes, well there are 28 and 31 but I would be using the 31.

Quote:
If so... then you can simply (well, relatively simply) build a tailhousing to fit the car (jericho) case, and at the dorrect distance to just plop a 31-spline ford input gear onto it. (if you can find a ford 203, or at least a ford 203 input gear)
I thought about that too, the only thing is that I would like the front output to be passenger side. And as far as I know all the fords are driver side. Not to mention how much fabrication work would the homebuilt tailhousing be to construct vs just using it divorced? Besides it might even help weight distribution and pinion angle change to have it back a bit.

Quote:
Jeep grille, either get one from the old willy's wagon/pickup series, OR, make yourself a 'slat grille'. The first series of MB/GPW jeeps (they were lower case back then) used a grille that was welded together flat steel stock. Make the shape of a '34 ford grille shell, just make it ouf of 1" flat bar. Vertical bars out of the same material.
That is awesome. I have actually been planning on a custom flat steel grill. I was going to modify and add to the jeep one even if I used that but itís cool to know they actually made them like that originally as well, it sort of adds to the nostalgia of the old hot rod idea. I actually scroll steel as a hobby, I was going to make some weird artistic additions to parts of the car that way. I think it needs some big steel horns coming off the top out to the side, or would that be corny? I would love to see a picture of the old ones if anyone has any as well.

Quote:
BMC Mini's (and family members like the Austin America, and the MG 1800) used U-joints (in britain they call them 'hooke-type' joints) on the axles. Not sure how many road racers running mini's use those axles, or change to a real CV...
I dunno man, that is a super light car too, and I never knew the miniís to be famous for prodigious torque output. Hard turning angle under high torque while acceleration on big grippy tires, I just canít see that being good with a hooke type.

Quote:
Keep us updated.
peace
I will man, thanks for the info and ideas.
06-06-2008 11:29 PM
rustywagoneersdotcom I have lots of waggy D44 fronts with 2.73's... that would pair up pretty nicely with a 2.75 rear (keep the front rolling a hair faster). With the NP203 in low-range (1.98 to 1) that makes 5.50's.... 1/8th miler big block.....

peace
Dave
06-06-2008 11:24 PM
wyldstallyn73 I realize this is kind of stepping backwards into the thread, but if you decided to run the 203 with the rangebox and using low for drag racing then high for road driving like you mentioned earlier, the idea of the custom front axle (9inch center with D44 knuckles) would enable you to get more gearing options- earlier you asked about 9 inch gearing options, well, if I am not mistaken, the D44 axles with the low pinion can only go as high (low?) as 3.08. I believe the high pinion can get a bit more with a 3.00. The Ford 9 is easy to find 2.75's for and some of the mid-late 70's luxo-barges ran 2.50 gears.
06-06-2008 10:46 PM
rustywagoneersdotcom DUDE, bent fab.... that VW is off the chi-zain!

very cool....
06-06-2008 10:41 PM
rustywagoneersdotcom I think the locked (203 derivative) will be fine road racing. Run really REALLY good lube. But, effectively on every single corner you will have enough slip at each wheel to keep it from ever getting bound up. AND, even if a solid lock, front-to-back, 50/50 torque split may not be very technologically advanced, at least it will be consistent. It will do the same thing every time. As you get more used to the car, you can build yourself a second range-box-less 203 and get a fancy shmancy posi/torsen diff and machine a case to put it into the 203 (well, maybe).

When the SCCA had a minitruck class, the Archer brothers kicked mucho butt. With a beam front axle in an MJ (comanche). Why did the greater unsprung weight of the 'old-tech' solid axle win? ZERO camber change on body roll. The truck did the exact same thing every time. Bumps, no bumps, whatever.

Regarding the 'car' toploader, or Jericho.... I was just thinking... aren't Ford cars 31-spline output?

If so... then you can simply (well, relatively simply) build a tailhousing to fit the car (jericho) case, and at the dorrect distance to just plop a 31-spline ford input gear onto it. (if you can find a ford 203, or at least a ford 203 input gear)

Jeep grille, either get one from the old willy's wagon/pickup series, OR, make yourself a 'slat grille'. The first series of MB/GPW jeeps (they were lower case back then) used a grille that was welded together flat steel stock. Make the shape of a '34 ford grille shell, just make it ouf of 1" flat bar. Vertical bars out of the same material.

BMC Mini's (and family members like the Austin America, and the MG 1800) used U-joints (in britain they call them 'hooke-type' joints) on the axles. Not sure how many road racers running mini's use those axles, or change to a real CV...

Keep us updated.
peace
Dave
06-06-2008 10:31 PM
Bent Fabrications Dammit Tim.... you've got me thinking too much again. Some of the stuff I'm finding really makes me want to build something. But I'd want Very modern drivetrane with a Rat body hiding it all... Found this and thought it has to be the coolest Beetle ever. Just swap out the already suicided out front axle for a Toy axle and make a few changes here and there.... I'm going to get in trouble

I know it's not what your thinking but it's cool none the less... -Tim









06-06-2008 10:06 PM
TimIacobucci On a side note how do you guys feel about a CJ grill on a rat rod roadster? They are not really that far off from the original roadster.




I mean it's going to be parts from a bunch of cars and trucks,a ford engine a dodge or audi transfer case a dana or toyota front axle. Allot of it will be completely custom and aftermarket too so there isn't a whole lot of brand loyalty. I just don't know the legacy of the jeep grill to be sticking it on there other than the fact that I think it looks cool and goes with the 4x4 parts. Are jeep guys gonna be getting on my ass because it isn't really a jeep or a real off road vehicle? Or if I put Ford/Jeep/Toyota embelms next to one another on the grill? hehe
06-06-2008 09:41 PM
TimIacobucci Hello again everyone, I have some more questions for you guys.

I have been trying to look into the passenger car guts in a truck toploader idea. I canít find a whole lot so far. Which transmission exactly is it that would work for this? The t176 family?

From the few pictures I have seen these are all top shifted. I am interested in the side shift rail toploader design. Are there any jeep or truck 4 spds like this?

I am thinking now even with a well built toploader it would only be a matter of time before I break it. So now I am thinking I will probably need something like an aftermarket Jericho which is still based on a the ford toploader but significantly stronger. I am not sure but if it is possible to put passenger car internals into a t176 then it may also be possible to see if Jericho could throw their stuff into that same case.

If this is possible it should be able to bolt to a ford toploader bellhousing for a big block and a np203 directly right? How strong is this case? There is not much point in throwing heavy duty expensive guts into a case that is going to break.

I havenít had a chance to call Fast Enough Performance to find out much about the audi t case but if I go that way or try and de-rangebox the 203 then the t case will be divorced anyways and it would be much simpler to use the standard Jericho.

Quote:
Why not a NV146??? AWD transfer case found in the SRT8 Grand Cherokee. Of course, it's of the same lineage of the NP203, saves weight and is rated for more torque (New Process became New Venture). Holding 600+ HP in a Hennessey SRT600:
What transmissions does this bolt to? I canít really find much of any information about it? Is it relatively new? I am looking for mostly accessible junkyard sourced stuff to modify and build up if needed. Also 600hp is not 800 and it is not even the power really. Most modern car engines rev higher and make less torque relative to power and also use stupid low profile tires that canít launch hard, this all combines to be much kinder regarding drivetrain shock loads. It is the 800 ft/lbs of big block launching on huge grippy tires that worries me.

Quote:
You don't have to overbuild the chassis.. just do a lot of planning. Since performance is the main concern, work with suspension design and geometry first... then design the chassis to work with the suspension. There are several programs that can help out with suspension dynamics, and there is DAYS worth of reading about suspension found in the archives of Pirate4x4. You won't be able to use the search feature without being a RED STAR member of Pirate. It's cheaper than a magazine subscription and will open up a wealth of knowledge that no magazine could ever cover...
I have been looking around here allot. Youíre right there is a whole ton of info here to go through. I do get the feeling that most of the suspension design is based around eliminating binding and increasing articulation. The prolift and antisquat characteristics I am looking for information on are technically bind. The basic chassis structures and material and resources information is applicable and plentiful here though.

Also I can use the search now, but I actually prefer the (search query) site:https://www.pirate4x4.com google function to most forumís native search engines. This also works well for any other forum you want to search on as well even if you don't have an account that is usually required to use the search function in case anyone might find it useful.

Quote:
If you wanted to stay "Old School".. They used dual sprockets and chains in homade housings to direct drive the front end... some of the mud guys still do!!
That sounds badass actually. But that seems like it might be a bit of a safety thing with some big chains wiping through the engine compartment with it being so low and all. A shaft seems much more containable. Also I donít see how direct drive would have much differentiation.

Quote:
I know it needs to "look raw and ratty", but if you want to do all wheel drifts with the spirit of a rally car or an EVO road racer... you'll need to bring on the tech when it comes to drive line.
Well it doesnít HAVE to look any certain way. The body and outer appearance are not going to be affected much by the transfer case I donít think. It was more the spirit of the build itself I meant. The whole idea of using old school 60ís parts in a 20ís car is the main theme of a classic hot rod. Using a 385 big block, 4 spd toploader and 9Ē is standard stuff, but an np203 and a dana 44/60 are just about as old and classic I would say. A modern audi t case thoughÖ

But like I said function over form so if it gets the job done better I will do it if it is available and possible.

I also think for drifting around a locked center diff ala np203 will work plenty fine for that. I was wondering about actual handling and road racing. Iím still not even sure a locked center wouldnít work ok for that too though. I am just used to a rear torque bias (ie rear drive) and I see that is what most of the better rally type all wheel drive systems use. I really have no idea how a straight 50/50 locked center will behave. I think front/back pro-lift/anti-squat interaction might have an even bigger affect on weight transfer and handling, especially with a torsen type limited slip center differential which would automatically bias more torque to which ever end is getting more traction (which would largely be based on weight transfer).

Quote:
You may consider an FJ-80 front end. You will not find the high gearing, however it will have birfields and be very strong.
I have found some basic info on these. They seem promising, cvís on the front end are a fairly high priority. From what I have found most people donít drive the front axle on their trucks all too often and the U joint angle isnít usually much of an issue and why they can get away with it, but you donít see many U joints on front or all wheel drive cars these days.

What are the general guidelines for strength on these axles as far as power and tire size compared to other front axles? I see that longfield has upgrades for these as well, at what point would this upgrade be advisable?

I donít mean to be so anal about strength but one of the main reasons for planning this all out now is so I donít have to keep redesigning the thing for new parts after I break the existing ones. I would like to build it strong enough the first time if you see what I am saying and then there is the obvious damage that is possible to other components or myself or others when something breaks that I would like to avoid.
05-30-2008 08:19 PM
Grendel Why not a NV146??? AWD transfer case found in the SRT8 Grand Cherokee. Of course, it's of the same lineage of the NP203, saves weight and is rated for more torque (New Process became New Venture). Holding 600+ HP in a Hennessey SRT600:

http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/...s_pricing.html

Out accelerates the SRT10 Vipers...

American Made and adaptable to the Jeep transmissions we're discussing that could put car internals into a 4wd case for closer shift ratios.

Jeep T-5 with Ford World Class guts, Jeep 23 spline output shaft and 6 bolt round adapter to this t-case
05-30-2008 07:31 PM
Bent Fabrications
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimIacobucci View Post
Do you guys feel it is violating the spirit of this build to use an audi transfer case?

I really like the idea of using the np203 and staying with the whole old school american truck parts theme. Having a newer foreign tcase right in the heart of the system seems a little funny.

If you wanted to stay "Old School".. They used dual sprockets and chains in homade housings to direct drive the front end... some of the mud guys still do!!

I know it needs to "look raw and ratty", but if you want to do all wheel drifts with the spirit of a rally car or an EVO road racer... you'll need to bring on the tech when it comes to drive line.



.
05-30-2008 07:19 PM
Bent Fabrications Most of us on here are do-it-yourselfers as well There are some incredibly sharp people that lurk around on here... and if you present reasonable questions with a cool project... many knowledgeable people will step in to help. Definitely keep us posted on how this turns out, and with further questions if you get stumped.

You don't have to overbuild the chassis.. just do a lot of planning. Since performance is the main concern, work with suspension design and geometry first... then design the chassis to work with the suspension. There are several programs that can help out with suspension dynamics, and there is DAYS worth of reading about suspension found in the archives of Pirate4x4. You won't be able to use the search feature without being a RED STAR member of Pirate. It's cheaper than a magazine subscription and will open up a wealth of knowledge that no magazine could ever cover...

Give Chris a call (during East Coast business hours). He's the man when it comes to AWD and huge power.


-Tim
05-30-2008 06:56 PM
comeonstart You may consider an FJ-80 front end. You will not find the high gearing, however it will have birfields and be very strong.

-cYou might also look into the ARB diffs offered for some t-cases, I wouldnt be above using an audi case if you can.
________
VAPORIZER VOLCANO
05-30-2008 05:47 PM
TimIacobucci Do you guys feel it is violating the spirit of this build to use an audi transfer case?

I really like the idea of using the np203 and staying with the whole old school american truck parts theme. Having a newer foreign tcase right in the heart of the system seems a little funny.

I know I said function over form but how much do you think having an open center diff most of the time is really going to affect it? For drag racing I can still lock it. And a straight torsen center diff with nothing else will actual start to open if the front wheels begin to leave the ground, actually I don't think it wouldn't even be able to transfer enough power to the rear axle to pull a wheelstand like a locked center diff could.

I guess that would be something to discuss with Mr. Kapitski though.
05-30-2008 05:39 PM
TimIacobucci Wow thanks man that is a huge help. I never heard of that quattro but it sounds crazy, I will look it up. Should I call during regular business hours on a weekday or when would be a good time to call you think?

That is weird you mention that, my whole inspiration and the genisis of my intrest in awd was from watching old group B rally videos. That psycho quattro sport they were running was terrifying.



For the Chassis, well until I found out about the mud dragster setup I was planning a more basic version of an altered drag chassis but widened for 2 people. I want to build it with the top open but I am not entirely opposed to closing it for a full cage if it seems to flex too much. Whatever iteration I want full roll over protection. I am leaving the engine bay totally open so running support from the main cage section around the engine to support the front suspension mounting locations shouldn't be a problem.

I would like to build as much of this as I can, I really do appreciate your help Tim and if I had the money and wanted to go that route I would definitely hand the chassis construction over to you. I just like to build most everything I can myself. I also like this because if things break I have no one else to blame.(I'm not implying your stuff breaks) This is new ground though chassis wise integrating these kinds of front axle forces.

Like everything else I was discussing I will build it overkill, I will brace the hell out of everything even if it makes it heavier. I want a strong dependable structure. Not some feather weight tube chassis that is bent and cracking after 1 year of hard use.

I think I am going to try and plan this out and make a computer model of it so I can show you what I am talking about. I have a degree in computer animation but I haven't messed with autocad or engineering programs before though. Is there a pretty basic program I could start out with for testing suspension dynamics?
05-30-2008 04:14 PM
Bent Fabrications If your interested in pursuing the Audi center diff, You might give Chris Kapitski a call at Fast Enough Performance. He's a VW and Audi guru that has been in European Car magazine several times with his personal Audi Quattro that puts over 1000hp to all 4 wheels. He has a VW and Audi junkyard beside his shop and probably has a center diff that will handle your engine at his shop. You may have to get creative to mate it up to whatever tranny you choose...

Fast Enough Performance (859) 258-2015
Ask for Chris (the owner) and pitch your idea to him... tell him Tim at Bent Fabrications gave you the number.


Setting up the front suspension to be a 5 linked "suicide axle" setup would not be hard to do... but the chassis would have to be carefully engineered around the link locations for everything you need up there to fit and function. You haven't talked about what type of platform your going to try to set this all up on. I'm guessing your wanting a 1/2 chassis (top open) built to handle this much power? I'm not sure a standard frame rail design will handle the torsion that planting those 4 tires will generate? Ideas, or have you even thought this far?

I don't know your level of Fabrication, but if your interested in having part of this built.. I'd be game to step up. I'm no stranger to huge HP and know more than a little about getting it to the ground.


-Tim
05-30-2008 02:50 PM
TimIacobucci
Quote:
I think for what you are trying to do a 44 or 9" with 44 outers would be the way to go. The knuckles on a 60 are huge and I doubt you will be loading the front end that hard (unless to show off you do a front burn) I wonder if a WJ knuckle assembly and cv would be better as you are wanting to have power to the front all the time.
Why a 9" with dana 44 ends? Aren't the outer knuckles usually the weak link on the dana 44? Why put the strongest differential with the weakest ends? If anything wouldn't it better to use d60 outers on the 9" to save weight over the d60 housing? I might do that depending on how much the dana 60 weighs over a 9". It just seems silly to get a whole d60 just for the outers and cut it up and still need custom axles when I could just use the whole thing.

Also I saw that Longfield had CV joints for a d60 like you were talking about with the WJ. They are expensive but I think you are right about the importance of constant velocity with a full time front end. I also think the turning radius capability would be greatly improved. I don't see that they have one for a d44 though. If I did this then going with the 9" would make more sense since I am changing the axles anyways.

Thompson Coupling This would be really sick though. It looks a bit big to fit nicely between a kingpin setup though.

I would like to experiment with allot of pro-lift on the front suspension and see how it works, so I do plan to load the front pretty hard.
Quote:
Plant the rear tires hard, lift the fronts just enough to spin, and you are smoking the fronts due to the open diff in the 203 - Unless of course you are going to do the drag work with the case locked.
I figure I will have to lock the center differential for drag racing just because there is no possibility of any type of limited slip for it.

I would love it if I could get a torsen for it. The way the differential is driven makes that difficult though. It is driven by the input shaft from the range box which passes through the hollow output shaft that turns the chain that drives the front axle and connects through a splined circle in the center via a cross between the spider gears which turns the entire carrier without directly driving either the front or rear output shafts, accept through the spider gears differential action.

It's at the bottom part of the picture, the upper output shaft is a 2wd conversion peice that eliminates the differential entirely.


This is crazy and unique, it took me a while to figure out because I have never seen or heard of it before, but that area in the center of the carrier is where most limited slip devices live.

But then I found this picture of and audi transfer case and it is setup in a similar but reverse fashion with the input shaft turning the carrier directly but having the front and rear outputs from the differential passing over one another still running through the center. but it still retains a torsen limited slip around the outside of the carrier with the shafts occupying the center. So it is possible but really complex and there is probably little market for it in a np203 transfer case.


A torsen needs input torque from one side to function so like the hummer it must be brake modulated if one wheel comes off the ground. That would probably make it less desirable vs a locker or other limited slip for most off road applications for this tcase, and I think those types of lsd are not possible because of the setup I described. Not to mention you can already lock it with the stock shifter, and unlock it if you get bound up, so you basically got a mechanical arb in it to start with, so there is nearly zero demand for the limited slip carrier that I would really like to have.

I don't think I'm gonna find any transfer case applications that are strong enough that have one either unless I actually steal one out of an audi. Which would be expensive and hard to find and probably not nearly as strong as a 203 and that would also be greatly deviating from the build concept I had going of using old hardcore stuff.

Quote:
I vote for the divorced, range-box-less 203.
Has anyone ever done this before that you know of?

I don't know allot about the range doubler mod, do you need the 203 input shaft for the 205 doubler setup? Or could I get a 203 and sell the range box off keeping the input shaft if I go this route?

Also any opinions on keeping the range box and using it as a gear splitter? The more I thought about that the cooler it seems actually.
05-30-2008 01:12 PM
strangler X2. Thats exactly how I would do it.
05-30-2008 11:21 AM
rustywagoneersdotcom If you are up for the fab work (not impossible, just slightly new territory) I vote for the divorced, range-box-less 203.

Except for the fact that -

Plant the rear tires hard, lift the fronts just enough to spin, and you are smoking the fronts due to the open diff in the 203 - Unless of course you are going to do the drag work with the case locked.

peace
Dave
05-30-2008 08:48 AM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimIacobucci View Post
If I can work around the driver side front driveshaft who thinks a lighter np242 with a dana 44 would work the best?

Who thinks that stuff will break and I should build a np203 with a dana 60 the first time?
I think for what you are trying to do a 44 or 9" with 44 outers would be the way to go. The knuckles on a 60 are huge and I doubt you will be loading the front end that hard (unless to show off you do a front burn) I wonder if a WJ knuckle assembly and cv would be better as you are wanting to have power to the front all the time.
05-30-2008 08:40 AM
Beat95YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by InstaGator View Post
The quadraduce was awesome before it was redone....
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