|12-01-2015 07:45 AM|
I thought I would share some pics of my WJ's 4 link that I just finished to bump this thread since it was so helpful. I have been gathering parts for the 4 link for a while but didnt plan on building it for quite some time until i found that the lower control arm bracket was tearing off of the unibody. I cut the rust out and plated it all. i decided that if i was going to do all that that i might as well just build the 4 link at the same time. I am running 6.5" Iron Rock Offroad coils and the factory rear control arms were absolutely terrible as to be expected at those angles.
Control arm bracket failure
Rust removed, the other side looked a lot like this one
New unibody rails and lower mount mocked up
axle on the floor with links mocked up (i only have 10in of travel limited by shock and coil lengths)
and flex shot before the shake down run.
I have not plugged the numbers into the calculator yet and this is my 1st 4-link so feel free to comment on how shitty it is.
here are the specs.
RuffStuff 1.25" heims
Ruffstuff 7/8" heims
Axle side vertical separation
Frame side vertical separation
plans for the future are to swap in a sterling 10.25 and stretch the rear about 3" and use 0.375 wall lower links. I'm a little worried about bending a link since my rig is so heavy and full bodied. Ill update this when i get a chance to take some measurements and plug them into the calculator.
|11-08-2015 01:52 PM|
I recently started mocking up my rear suspension, its gonna be single lower triangulated |/\|. Im guessing my lowers will be 40-42" and my uppers 36-38 give or take. My separation at frame will be 5" and at the axle 8-9". Has anybody dealt with this style? I expect a little less stability than a double triangulated would provide but can I expect a good strut like ORIs properly dialed to control any bad characteristics while in off camber situations or hopping on steep climbs?
Heres a pic of mine and below a pic of how it will be when completed.
|03-30-2015 10:23 AM|
Im about to build a rear 4-link with the lowers being the main triangulation meeting at the frame side, no truss and the uppers, on towers, having only slight triangulation. Heres a link to what I'm talking about -- 4-Link Kit "C" - Lower Triangulated- Upper towers - Link Suspension Kits - Products
With this set up will all the general rear 4-link rules and numbers apply? Anybody have experience with this design and have some helpful input? Thanks
|08-11-2014 10:53 PM|
I wanted to bump this back up.
I built my last crawler suspension, and it's the best I've ever driven in the rocks. Double triangulated, 30 inch arms, 23 inch roll center height, ~86% anti squat, 3 degrees roll axis. 95 inch wheelbase. It was a little rolly as speed, but I also never put on a rear antirock. It was also coils and Bilstiens.
I'm building it for go fast (4500 mod class), and stretched it. 14 inch coil carrier with 2.5 inch bypass in the rear. New wheelbase is 108 on 37s. Suspension I've initially designed for it is 36 inch arms, 25 inch roll center height, 76% anti squat, 1% roll axis angle.
I'm hoping to tune with shock and spring rates, and not run an Antirock. If I can;t get to where I need it, I'll add one.
Since there are so many mod class builds, are there some key design aspects that make it handle better at speed? Any suggestions on my design? Thanks all.
|05-25-2013 12:12 PM|
Made and welded up the upper arms. 42" long eye to eye, 1.75x.120 HREW tube, 7/8"x3/4" rid ends on both ends with high misalignment spacers down to 5/8" bolts.
And I'd never welded the UCA mounts in soild, nor re-enforced the UCA / LCA frame side mounts, so I started on that -
I also welded up the rear axle mounts for all control arms. Still need more work on that truss, but I'm waiting until I've mounted the shocks before I weld the truss on.
tons more pics and commentary in this thread:
I never ended up using the upper hole in the upper link mounts, I absolutely love how it feels - really stable without any anti-rock, and the killer airshocks that flip you over. I like the A/S, it climbs great, and plants really well.
|05-25-2013 12:10 PM|
I did get to buy all kinds of new layout tools that I've never had a reason to own before.
After approving the rear frame design in 2x4 pine, it was time to make it in 2x4 steel.
And welded -
For Cinco de Mayo, I decided to work on something that I'd been looking forward to for quite some time -
|05-25-2013 12:09 PM|
With the link mounts tacked in place, the lower links tacked together, and the frame clearanced for the lower links, I could start on the rear frame.
I wasnt really sure how it would turn out - so rather than use the $5.00/foot steel and fawk it all up and re-do it 10 times, I bought $10 worth of 2x4's and busted out the skill saw
The frame starts at the same width as the OEM rails, then tapers to 33" wide to provide shock clearance. 33" was chosen because thats how wide the front frame horns are at the firewall. I have no idea if that was a good choice or not.
|05-25-2013 12:08 PM|
Upper control arm mounts - 2.5x2.5x.250 wall Square, cut open. Drilled to 5/8" holes. Turns out the ID of that box tube isnt exactly 2", so I had to grind down the misalignment spacers a little.
Lower hole is the designed hole with the AS around 65%, the upper hole moves the instant center out a bit and makes the AS ~90%.
A jig I made to make the lower control arms - some 9/16" bolts welded to some leftover steel. This makes sure the arms are both exactly the same length.
Planned frame modification to attach the new rear section of the frame -
|05-25-2013 12:07 PM|
Lower control arm mounts - 3"x3"x.188" rectangle tube fits an RE 2-5/8" mounting width joint very well...
Some more 3/16" plate as a standoff to get the angles right... More re-enforcement to follow...
Started on the rear axle truss / upper link mounts -
3/16" plate for this piece, will be 1/8" to box it in and for the other pieces when its done later...
Lower link mounts tack welded in place -
|05-25-2013 12:06 PM|
Made templates for frame plates from materials I had an abundance of...
3/16" plate (the suspension will mount here) and the oxy-fuel torch...
|05-25-2013 07:14 AM|
|05-25-2013 07:10 AM|
Go into Gen4x4 and do a search for sway bars. I cant remember exactly which one, but there's a thread discussing the use of a 41" Toyota sway bar. In OEM form its nearly identical to a Currie sway bar. Very easy to adapt to just about any rig. FWIW, its likely the route I will try first.
But would avoid the factory XJ bar.
What Skammel suggested is also a good idea.
|05-23-2013 08:49 PM|
im just wondering if it will have enough travel to it.
|05-22-2013 10:36 PM|
|05-22-2013 08:16 PM|
|n20jeep||lets say i dont want to spend 500 on a antirock kit for the rear. how long do you think a stock XJ or WJ rear sway bar would survive? and do you think it would have enough travel to not need to be disco'd offroad?|
|03-04-2013 12:39 PM|
|frontier13||It has axle side horizontal and frame vertical I was gonna do opposite of that...but I changed my mind cut out some stuff made room.|
|03-04-2013 12:26 PM|
I dont see an issue with that.
|03-01-2013 07:01 PM|
|frontier13||So I've searched and looked but can't find input... so I know ruff stuff has a horizontal mount for the upper on the axle . I was thinking about using tabs and mounting my axle mounts vertical but doing my frame side uppers horizontal??? Any down side be way easier for packaging and I already have inner uni rail plated and it will be boxed in and everything?? Thoughts|
|02-24-2013 05:55 PM|
I have them braced to the rocker boxes and back to the frame rails, i also have a crossmember to tie the two together. They're welded to the new rails that i fitted inside the orginal unibody. I also have it all attached to the polyperformance replacement leaf spring mounts. It will also all be tied into the cage work.
|02-24-2013 09:22 AM|
did you do any kind of bracing on you upper frame side mounts or are they just welded to the floor on the bottom, this is where i am at and having a hard time feeling good about there strength
|02-22-2013 04:15 AM|
|02-19-2013 02:46 PM|
|GeneticDisposition||I ran them flat. I don't think it will much matter as far as how they hold up my idea was my belly is flat besides the 20 3/4" bolts holding in my crossmembers up. With my crossmembers only around 18" apart the links will see some rock contact and I wanted it to be as nice and smoth as a slide as I could. If I ran them the other way them might be more prone to catch in rocks and possible cause a roll given the right contitions. The other reason I did them that way was it was eazyer to cut and weld for the bushing at the body side. My build is on a supper tight buget. It will be way eazy when it can wheel to upgrade to 1.25" himes on the body side to match the axle side when I have the cash.|
|02-18-2013 07:42 PM|
if you run the link like a "diamond" it would be easier to crush the top & bottom towards each other, which would then be easy to bend, or kink.
if you run it as a flat bottom box, then you would have to bend each side (vertical planes) in order to bend the link.
|02-18-2013 03:37 PM|
|02-17-2013 04:58 PM|
great white, thank you
sorry great white but i didnt find a front 4 link thread thank you for the help. so if i get 40 degrees between both the uppers and lowers the axle will stay centered, got it . my lowers are 40 inches long 2 inch solid i wasnt to sure how strong it was so we put a side up on a rail road tie backed a back ho up it, bowed a hair, but went right back to straight. i only have 1472 lbs sprung weigth plus half the weight of the arms
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