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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-05-2010 08:55 PM
WTF-J Often times a noisy pump is starving for fuel, so I would look for an issue in the pickup.

In my system, the 100μ pre-filter is basically a removable and serviceable screen. With that sitting in front of the pump, it keeps trash out of the pump without being so restrictive as to cause starvation/cavitation. It also helps to keep the post pump filter/regulator clean, as that filter's primary role is to keep the smaller stuff out of the injectors.

Good luck.
01-05-2010 08:18 PM
CaglezXJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WTF-J View Post
It's an Earls 100μ pre-filter. As to the plugged filter question, look to a fuel pressure gauge.

Good luck.
I was trying to see if there was a way to check it off the buggy. Cause I am trying to eliminate a bad pump or stopped up filter. I hate to fill the cell with a stopped up filter and a new pump and it was just the filter stopped up. Or the other way around. I am going to check the pressure tomorrow and then try changing the filter first. My Walbro is screaming and I believe it is dead. But I suppose it could be a clogged filter causing this also. Wish there was a better way to do this without starting over buying fuel parts.

I have a new Walbro Pump and Filter should be here tomorrow. Surely the filter didn't clog that fast. Maybe 24 hrs on it and the pump.
01-05-2010 07:21 PM
WTF-J It's an Earls 100μ pre-filter. As to the plugged filter question, look to a fuel pressure gauge.

Good luck.
01-05-2010 07:09 PM
CaglezXJ What brand is that bottom filter? I guess I need one like that also. Does anyone here know a good way to check the filter regulator to see if it is clogged up?
01-05-2010 06:56 PM
WTF-J Best pricing I've found on AN fittings is here: http://www.anplumbing.com/


01-05-2010 03:01 PM
CaglezXJ So I had my walbro 255 pump fail New Years Day. After a few trips out and say 24hrs max time on the pump. I am running a wix filter regulator like stated by this topic. It has the return coming out of it.
I just wanted to pass this along. I was wondering if the filter was designed to feed fuel back through the return if it becomes clogged. This would keep your pump from dead heading. After speaking with the Wix Engineers I have found out they filter the fuel going to the engine and back to the cell. So if it does get stopped up you will not return fuel back to the cell. I think this is a bad design. But don't know any other filter that operates different. Just a heads up.
01-04-2010 06:59 PM
JF Yeah, not the first time being cheap has bitten me.

I have emailed the seller (q.sport) a couple times and haven't heard back.

I think I am gonna go with the Earls unit.
12-18-2009 07:12 PM
Pook
Quote:
Originally Posted by camo View Post
not to be a dick, but I learned a long time ago, Poor people can't afford to be cheap.
x2

Trying to save money has a lot of times ended up costing me 2-3x more than if I bought the bling part to start with.
12-18-2009 05:29 PM
camo
Quote:
Originally Posted by JF View Post
Yeah, I saw that on ebay as well. There is also an OBX version for $25.

I wish they put some kind of flow #s with these things. For $60 I could run 2 of the cheaper units like -- < == > --
Quote:
Originally Posted by JF View Post
Alright, has anyone sourced the cheapest place to buy AN fittings?

not to be a dick, but I learned a long time ago, Poor people can't afford to be cheap.
12-18-2009 05:20 PM
lxh0318
Quote:
Originally Posted by JF View Post
I just recieved the OBX unit today. I can't blow through it at all

Which is strange as pushing the ball in with the tip of a pen is quite easy. Blowing in the reverse direction does not seal air tight. While I am sure the significantly higher pressure of a fuel line would actually help to press the ball into the seal .... I am not impressed. I probably just pissed $30 away.
The aeromotive ones seal air tight blowing in reverse. Sometimes I would have to smack the check against my palm to get it to unseal so I could blow through it again.
12-18-2009 05:17 PM
JF
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxh0318 View Post
It does have restictions but you can blow through them very easy.
I just recieved the OBX unit today. I can't blow through it at all

Which is strange as pushing the ball in with the tip of a pen is quite easy. Blowing in the reverse direction does not seal air tight. While I am sure the significantly higher pressure of a fuel line would actually help to press the ball into the seal .... I am not impressed. I probably just pissed $30 away.
12-14-2009 05:47 PM
JF Alright, has anyone sourced the cheapest place to buy AN fittings?

This OBX valve is going to require a male -6AN to 3/8" barb and a female -6AN to 3/8" barb and I am not seeing any -6An stuff on ebay.

For Camo or anyone else looking to up their AN fitting collection with another 275 pieces .... lot for sale on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Whole...item19b8507cef
12-09-2009 11:14 PM
camo you should see the 9 drawer tool cabinet full of XRP fittings

rear mounted radiator all done in AN-16




12-09-2009 11:02 PM
JF Camo, from that pic it is clear you have too many fittings cluttering up your work space ... I can help you out with that.
12-09-2009 09:31 PM
camo more detail on my setup here https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...+pickup&page=3

quad pickps ( 2 front and 2 rear )
dual filters
dual holley blue lifter pumps
Y with checks

to accumulator

100 micron filter
aeromotive pump
flow thru rails
regulator

12-09-2009 09:07 PM
lxh0318
Quote:
Originally Posted by JF View Post
Good deal. If it flows enough for your application it should be plenty for mine. I am going to try to get one of the OBX units as they are cheaper.

As far as the inside I mainly just wanted to know if it had any obvious obstructions like the second pic I posted.
It does have restictions but you can blow through them very easy.
12-09-2009 08:59 PM
JF
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxh0318 View Post
60 PSI on a turnkey LS2. Not really sure how to explain the inside of the the check valve. Really just a ball that seals it of.
Good deal. If it flows enough for your application it should be plenty for mine. I am going to try to get one of the OBX units as they are cheaper.

As far as the inside I mainly just wanted to know if it had any obvious obstructions like the second pic I posted.
12-09-2009 08:34 PM
lxh0318
Quote:
Originally Posted by JF View Post
Excellent. First hand experience with the aeromotive unit. lxh0318 can you share some more info like what psi you're running and what motor you're feeding.

Do you recall what the inside of the valve looked like? If you looked into them.
Thanks
60 PSI on a turnkey LS2. Not really sure how to explain the inside of the the check valve. Really just a ball that seals it of.
12-09-2009 08:24 PM
JF
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxh0318 View Post
My 2 HP pumps run into a Y with the check valves
Excellent. First hand experience with the aeromotive unit. lxh0318 can you share some more info like what psi you're running and what motor you're feeding.

Do you recall what the inside of the valve looked like? If you looked into them.
Thanks
12-09-2009 08:06 PM
JF
Quote:
Originally Posted by matts88yj View Post
You guys putting the check valves right after the filter/regulator or in between the pump and the filter/regular (in my setup at least). Yeah I know Tuesday was yesterday...
I personally would put the check valve right after the filter/reg rather than in between the reg and the pump. Thus eliminating the reg from the equation of keeping pressure in the rail. Obviously keeping everything as far back toward the tank as possible so that more of the line stays pressurized, and there is less to "prime".

Now if you're running 2 pumps to a single filter/reg you would have to run one between the off pump and the merge to keep the on pump from pushing past the off pump. As Bigburlynakedguy described.
12-09-2009 08:05 PM
lxh0318 My 2 HP pumps run into a Y with the check valves
12-09-2009 07:43 PM
matts88yj You guys putting the check valves right after the filter/regulator or in between the pump and the filter/regular (in my setup at least). Yeah I know Tuesday was yesterday...
12-09-2009 10:55 AM
camo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowrockr View Post
Maybe I'm misunderstanding but what I was told at the local supply house was the difference in viton and regualr buna seals was heat range. Am I being mislead or is there another reason why Viton would be better than regular buna seals?
mainly I suggest viton seals as a means of simply knowing what you have. el cheapo parts often don't specify what the seal is and could be bubble gum for all you know.

so you know if it is viton it is going to perform.

but a buna seal should be fine

http://www.pspglobal.com/nfpcatalog.html

and a comparision of viton and buna
http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...9-14-P0607.htm
12-09-2009 09:43 AM
Slowrockr
Quote:
Originally Posted by camo View Post
the earls ones do not restrict flow. look for ones with viton seals

I use 2 of these in my system
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-251008ERL/
Maybe I'm misunderstanding but what I was told at the local supply house was the difference in viton and regualr buna seals was heat range. Am I being mislead or is there another reason why Viton would be better than regular buna seals?
12-09-2009 09:08 AM
Bigburlynakedguy Agree with the guage idea. I have a fuel pressure guage in front of the co-dog. It makes for fast identification of engine issues. Suck, Blow, Pop, Squirt.......It's gotta be one of em!
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