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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-12-2018 09:50 AM
gimp-e Hi,

I'm new to this forum, and was wondering if the GM HEI conversion would work on a 1980 Celica GT Liftback with 20R engine? If so, please include details about how to wire it up, as I don't know if the Celica wiring is the same as the Hilux pickup

Thanks!
10-12-2018 09:48 AM
gimp-e Hi,

I'm new to this forum, and was wondering if the GM HEI conversion would work on a 1980 Celica GT Liftback with 20R engine? If so, please include details about how to wire it up, as I don't know if the Celica wiring is the same as the Hilux pickup

Thanks!
12-14-2017 06:10 PM
gus straussen This thread has been helpful. This guy brought me his 81 truck with a laser 22R. It ran like shit. Had 2 dead holes, I did a leak down test. Swapped in a good running engine with his existing distributor, intake and exhaust. He's got the GM module installed. It looks hacked but the wires appear to be in the correct locations.
It runs. But it's not drivable. I have a adjustable timing light. It will run with the timing at 8 btc at idle. But it won't rev up. With the timing at 28 btc it will rev up. While this is reving up, instead of the timing advancing, it goes retarded. If I set it to 28 btc it revs to over 15 atc. Obviously this is an advance issue.
The distributor looks like it's newer. I checked to see the vacuum advance is working. I'm guessing the centrifugal weights are working, they are present.
Wtf am I missing here?
Is there a different GM module to use?
I'd swap in stock parts I have, but all the wire ends are butchered.
I'm about to go find a donor harness, if I have to.
What say pirate?
01-09-2016 05:17 PM
toyota79
1979 Toyota igniter module replacement

Hi, I tried the fix with the chev coil and chev igniter. Truck started and ran for 2 seconds and then no spark again. Does it need a resister somewhere to not burn out the new components? Anyone have a better solution?

Thanks,

Jack
08-12-2015 03:15 AM
DaWelda
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x View Post
Bump...did this mod to my 85 pickup in the last few days and figured I'd share my experience for the next guy. The truck would not fire up after putting a dropping a Craigslist 22r in. I was not getting any spark. Replaced the Toy coil to no avail, and regulators are ridiculously overpriced as discussed in this thread, so Pirate to the rescue

Long story short, I did things pretty much exactly as Rock Zombie detailed in Post #82, using same part numbers and vehicles. I picked up the house brand over at Napa but he could correspond the part numbers to his own. I wired the +12v feed from the old green Toy plug that went to the igniter. As for the distributor wires, the white one goes to the "W" terminal on the ignition module, and the red or pink wire goes to the "G" terminal. It ran like ass when I switched them the other way, but would fire up before my timing was set correctly, where the desired configuration would not reliably fire up when the timing was way out. (I did this in the process of a de-smog and Weber swap too).

I cut out a piece of 3/16" alum to mount the module to for a heatsink, then bolted to the fender where the igniter used to mount. The NAPA module came with a little pack of silicon-type heat grease. I'll try to snap a pic tonight to share. Thanks to everyone who posted up in this thread and saved me some $$
Aloha, I been looking @ all the posts concerning the by-pass & got everything sorted out except for the yellow wire...
08-12-2015 01:28 AM
DaWelda Aloha,
I have a 89 Land Cruiser EFI straight 6 got igniter issues. I'm attempting the igniter by pass. So far I had no luck. Here's what I'm doing: From the OEM harness I found the hot wire (+) black/blue stripe. I'm using the plug in from the igniterso I can use the OEM harness. So far I got the hot soldered to the positive coil lead that runs to the "B" terminal on the GM HEI module & I made the (-) lead that runs from the "C" terminal to the (-) side of the coil. I have 3 wires left to connect...on the harness side there are 1 solid black wire, 1 black with light green stripe & 1black with dark green stripe. On the ignter cplug I got 3 wires left1 pink, 1 white & 1 yellow. The white & pink are on the bottom & the hot (tan colored wire) is on the top & the yellow wire is next to it... right now I'm stumped... What do I do next??? Anybody know??? Oh Yeah...distributor got 3 wires...
08-10-2015 06:08 PM
DaWelda
Quote:
Originally Posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER View Post
instead of paying for a used ignitor and coil that will probably go out just like the one i had or paying 300$ for a new one i opted for the "easy" gm conversion . like seabass did but instead of using a 1000 ohms resistor and the stock coil i bought a coil for a 1973 chevy truck 350 v8 (or any round coil with negative/positive terminals on it) (11.99 autozone) and a "ignition module" from a 1985 chevy k10 350 v8 truck (14.99 autozone) .

your igntion hot wire (or any hot wire if you wanna have a toggle switch hidden some where) goes to the b terminal on the gm ign modu then from term b run a wire to the positive term on the gm coil. then run a wire from the c term on the gm ign mod to the negative term on the gm coil. then the g and w term on the ign mod go to the two wires coming out of the distributor cap. just use trial and error hooking them up, if you hook em wrong it will idle real high and fast rough, if you hook em up right itll run perfect. theres only two wires so its 50/50 not too hard.

soddering would be best on all the new connections along with grease, also on the bottom side of the gm ignition module is metal that is your ground to bolt it or wire that to your old ground on the fender .

anymore questions feel free to pm me
Aloha,
Is it possible to use the old harness to do this bypass with?
03-18-2015 02:38 PM
shelby321
3.0 89 toyota 4runner ignition control module bypass

Im trying to do the same thing but I have a 3.0 my coil pack is good but my ignition control module is 400im trying to find a bypass 4 it any suggestions
01-21-2015 02:44 PM
dcg9381
Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseJamesBain View Post
Will this work for a 22re??

Not if you want the tach to work, the AC to work, the fuel delivery to work, or the EFI to control timing...
01-21-2015 09:39 AM
JesseJamesBain Will this work for a 22re??
11-19-2014 05:09 PM
4x4x Well shit I guess I spoke too soon. It was running great last night, now I try to fire it up tonight after working today and nothing! I can get it to run like ass if I switch the distributor signal wires around at the ignition module, but it will not fire up if I switch them back correctly. I was having the same problem last night, then magically one time it fired right up and ran great from then on out.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is maybe the pickup coil is shitty or something. Checked the air gap and it was .009 (FSM states .008 to .016)
11-19-2014 09:46 AM
4x4x Bump...did this mod to my 85 pickup in the last few days and figured I'd share my experience for the next guy. The truck would not fire up after putting a dropping a Craigslist 22r in. I was not getting any spark. Replaced the Toy coil to no avail, and regulators are ridiculously overpriced as discussed in this thread, so Pirate to the rescue

Long story short, I did things pretty much exactly as Rock Zombie detailed in Post #82, using same part numbers and vehicles. I picked up the house brand over at Napa but he could correspond the part numbers to his own. I wired the +12v feed from the old green Toy plug that went to the igniter. As for the distributor wires, the white one goes to the "W" terminal on the ignition module, and the red or pink wire goes to the "G" terminal. It ran like ass when I switched them the other way, but would fire up before my timing was set correctly, where the desired configuration would not reliably fire up when the timing was way out. (I did this in the process of a de-smog and Weber swap too).

I cut out a piece of 3/16" alum to mount the module to for a heatsink, then bolted to the fender where the igniter used to mount. The NAPA module came with a little pack of silicon-type heat grease. I'll try to snap a pic tonight to share. Thanks to everyone who posted up in this thread and saved me some $$
08-14-2014 03:31 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by alutz373 View Post
When I did my conversion to a carburator I left the 22re wiring harness in..can I still do the mod?
can you read? did you even try reading the thread or do you just want someone to reply to you?



you dont need any of the stock wiring so it doesnt matter if you left it or not

run a hot wire to the coil

run the two wires from the ignition module to the distributor

its all in this thread and has been done dozens of times

no you cant use an 22re efi ignition module

no you cant use a 22re distributor
08-14-2014 10:55 AM
alutz373 When I did my conversion to a carburator I left the 22re wiring harness in..can I still do the mod?
07-01-2014 09:07 PM
lt1aaron leafspring, I had the exact same symptoms occur to me with a stock ignitor and coil, which has now led me to this thread. I have yet to finish the GM module/coil combo but can tell you that it is likely not your problem. when checking the resistance across the leads from the distributor, do you have 140-180 ohms(factory spec) resistance? Have you verified all grounds? please post with any updates!
06-12-2014 06:07 PM
Leafspring
Quote:
Originally Posted by FJ40Addiction View Post
have you opened the dizzy up and checked for corrosion and checked the rotor and cap?
Thanks for replying.

I put my buddy's relatively new distro in and it fires up in a split second. So...

1). Did my distro just happen to fail a month after my igniter, and indeed offer hard starting after 2 weeks, or did my GM setup hasten the end?

2). When a distro is beginning to fail, will the engine be hard to start sometimes and not others, or was that a symptom of the GM setup?

3). The cap and rotor showed some evidence of contact wear, but I have run fine on worse. What causes a distro to fail? Could something have shorted out? THE WIERD THING IS- the old distro was still starting up with the GM setup every time (It was sucking a couple volts at rev though). When I hooked the old distro to buddy's new Toyota igniter: Nothing. What happened?

I can borrow these parts for awhile then I've got to come up with over $400 to do it right. I am leary of trying a new distro with GM setup in case it is bad on distro (Maybe try junkyard). I love little tricks like this but it seems others have had some problems as well.

Some have mentioned an Accel module, and Totoya coil, and a resistor. I am planning on going OEM but would still appreciate any feedback on my GM problem and solutions.

Sorry for so many questions.

Thanks!
06-12-2014 06:20 AM
FJ40Addiction
leafspring

have you opened the dizzy up and checked for corrosion and checked the rotor and cap?
06-10-2014 01:21 PM
Leafspring And it continues....

About I a month ago, my iginiter failed on my 1981 truck (22R), and I put one in from a buddy's truck and it fired right up.

Then, I set this up:

http://www.google.com/url?url=http:/...zItV9r5Df_53ig

At first I mounted my GM module directly on top of my old Toyota igniter, thinking to use the heatsink capability. Didn't run. I then mounted the GM module directly on the firewall, which I had sanded. It ran, but would drop from 14 volts to down around 10 when you gave it significant throttle. I secured the ground strap to the module better and all was good (Except it did seem to take another couple cranks as opposed to previously).

About a week ago, the troubles started mounting. Occasionally it would take minutes to get it started. And then later start right up (although still taking a little longer than original system). Then it almost died on the freeway, which was without a shoulder due to construction, and I had to keep the RPMs above 3000 to get home. The coil was very hot when I arrived.

Thinking maybe I had lathered on too much transfer grease under the module, I wiped it to a more thin layer. The truck started and idled at different times throughout the day. But upon reving the engine the voltage would drop from 14 to 12. The next day it would not start. I said forget it, and put my buddy's low mileage factory set up in, which fired right up a month ago, and now nothing.

1) Did this setup damage something?

2) Did my distributor pick this moment to quit?

3) Why the occasional hard starts with the GM system?

4) Why the drop in voltage when I revved?

5) I heard mention of a resistor. Is this for power wire or tach wire? Is this when using a Toyota coil on GM module only, or also for GM/GM?

6) Can someone post a good drawing of a wiring diagram?

This is my only driver and I am beside myself. Thanks!
05-24-2014 05:36 AM
rockyota83 heres a heat sink for anyone looking

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-104746...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
05-23-2014 10:09 PM
gvx This takes me bask years but I haven't seen any reference to the old round coils having a voltage drop resistor but as I remember they were started off of 12v and after the starter disengaged the voltage was supplied to the coil via a 8" resistor wire at 6 volts. I remember customers bringing in vehicles with repetitive coil failure and discovering that a shade-tree had wired the coil to run 12 volt all the time? any coil failures here with the 12 volt source? or have I missed something in this post?
05-23-2014 08:16 PM
DocNelson with everything wired correctly and power to the module I was checking power with a test light. The negative post of the module, post c is also hot. Is that the way that it should be? I can't get my engine to fire. it's a 22r.
07-12-2013 05:39 PM
clayctile
80 Toyota pickup running rough after swap

similar Problems As Kcar After The Swap.
Does Anyone Have Any More Information Or
Instruction About How He Fixed His Running A
Wire From The Engine Fuse To The Coil?
thanks
06-23-2013 09:37 AM
PAToyota
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxx249 View Post
I'm confused...I thought this was one of 'the oldest tricks in the books'!
Take a look at the date of the original post...
06-22-2013 09:19 PM
Foxx249 I'm confused...I thought this was one of 'the oldest tricks in the books'! I had a 20r and a buddy of mine was telling me that if I ever have a coil go out just get a GM coil / ignition module and wire it up properly. My only point is that I thought this was common knowledge already :O
06-22-2013 08:57 PM
billybob13 c819, it's good. not sure what the problem was but I finally got spark, I can only assume I wasn't connected all the way into the coil with the plug wire, I pushed in about 50 times today but somehow I got good spark. bad thing now is I realize I just paid $800 with freight for a motor (and had to wait a month for it to ship) only to find out it's worse than the blown motor I just removed. from 20 psi at the worst to 70 psi at the best cylinder. I love wasting money and time.
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