|09-15-2017 10:31 AM|
|09-03-2017 09:28 PM|
I realize now that all of my build pics are gone from the photobucket mishap. Spectacular.
Here is the body today, surprisingly solid. I expected so much more rust..
Guys I can't figure out imgur so here's the public album?
|09-02-2017 07:04 PM|
And a solid two years later I'm sceeping right along. After a lengthy, unhealthy relationship, I'm now back to doing things that make me happy. Like this gorgeous god damn piece of shit that's been the garage catch all for three years.
Today I began the process of stripping bondo and undercoating off. It's like the PO watched an episode of hot rod TV and thought, damn that entire panel needs a layer of bondo, but 1/4" thick. The metal underneath is surprisingly solid. I've been using the stripper found at HD, Jasco I think. Works pretty well.
The back corners are trashed per usual as well, I pulled the diamond plate off and the back passengers corner is completely destroyed. Gonna get the whole body to bare steel before fall and hopefully I can spend the fall and winter welding panels on it.
Will figure out pics shortly
|06-18-2015 05:27 PM|
Felt like bumping this thread to remind myself to work on it.
It's been two years since i've picked up a wrench to tinker with it, and i'm getting itchy thinking about it, so this is my proposed to-do list:
Cut out the floor (done)
Re-do the firewall again, needs to be better and I hate the way I did it the first time.
Fix the cut to shit fenders, making them one piece again instead of a two piece flip-forward hotrod setup
New gas tank (CJ5 under-floor rear tank)
New/used spriing pack, probably one I build from existing leafs and some new leafs
Alongside this, some kind of new rear setup to control the wrap from SOA. I'm considering radius arms, but that's later on when i build a custom frame.
Re-wire the gauges. Only half of em work..
|08-23-2013 08:01 PM|
Drove it around the other day after i bled the brakes, adjusted the clutch, minor carb issues, and put gas in the fuel cell.
The 5.0 definitely has the power to get this thing moving. Completely unloads the front suspension, and it feels like it would lift the drivers front off the ground.
@ Lloyd and 302cj3a
I thought i'd ground the drivers side manifold p/n off. This is the P/N for it. Different years for vehicles.
Passengers side is out of an 82-84 ford 1 ton w/ 351w.
Drivers is E0TE-9431-CA, bunch of vehicles.
I had to notch the passengers side floor board brace in front of the body just a little. The piece of wood that sticks forward had to be chopped a little. Otherwise, clears the frame, the body, the steering, and the engine mounts quite nicely. As far as front driveline clearance goes, i haven't got a clue, i don't have a front driveshaft in
Do all CJ5 axles have camber built in? Mine has some camber on both sides.
|08-13-2013 08:54 PM|
|08-13-2013 08:17 PM|
|Lloyd||Thanks for posting that. I'm fighting the exhausting battle also.|
|08-13-2013 07:52 PM|
The drivers side one got ground off. I'm not sure if this is a matching set off the same vehicle. The only ones that work properly are the manifolds that dump at the 3rd cyl back on either side.
|08-12-2013 06:50 PM|
If there is a legible part number on those manifolds, I'd be interested in what it is. I have bought 4 different sets of headers and stock manifolds to find a combo that fits, but I am not 100% set on it though
Sorry for the hi-jack. Great build!
|08-12-2013 01:20 PM|
Another thing, i'm not sure what kind of clearance you have for your steering shaft, but if you're like me, the oil filter was in nearly the same location as the steering shaft. I'm running an oil filter for a 93-94 Cobra. It's a K&N Filter, they're shorter than the factory ones. Idk what year your 302 is, but mines a 91' 5.0, and i think theres a changeover at some point to a different thread for the oil filter.
@Mieser. The angle of the photo makes the drag link look like it crosses over the tie-rod. However, it looks worse since the tie-rod is actually bent, and it still has the crossover style steering with the TRE that has the hole for the drag link TRE to bolt to. If that makes any sense. That particular style of TRE bends forward about an inch towards the box. The Tie-rod and Drag link are pretty much parallel to eachother, but not relative to the ground, and there is no binding at any point of the steering.
|08-12-2013 12:38 PM|
|Mieser||Whats up with the steering|
|08-12-2013 12:22 PM|
|302cj3a||What was the application on the cast manifolds you ended up using. Also is your bellhousing set up for 164t or 157t flywheel?|
|08-12-2013 11:49 AM|
Got some more stuff done.
Pulleys are pretty much all figured out. Not sure yet if i want to run the ford alternator, or run the 12SI i have sitting in the garage that's brand new.. When it was running though, it would charge at like 18V.
The body is bolted down now, clutch is all done, just need to do a rear brake line, a spacer for my fan, shroud, etc etc..
Not too far off, though.
The rad sticks down about an inch and a half under the bottom of the grill, should i consider covering it? or do you guys think it'll be fine.
Here you can see the pulley system. Just modified a power steering bracket, and used a factory bracket for the alt. The waterpump pulley was nowhere to be found at the wrecking yard, so i had to buy one.
And here's the clutch slave cyl mount.
The clutch master and slave are a matching set from a mid 80's nissan pickup. The bleeder valve can be swapped with the fluid inlet so it can be run upside down to bleed properly.
The pic that was here was too big, and i'm too lazy to re-upload it. Imagine a piece of 1/4" flat strap, bent at an angle, to mount to the top of the bellhousing and the side of the transmission. And then a slave cyl mounted on that.
It bolts on where the bellhousing bolts to the T18
|08-07-2013 06:26 PM|
|08-07-2013 05:49 PM|
Howd you position the brake booster along with the pedal assembly?
That's my next task.
|08-07-2013 04:35 PM|
Today i decided to mount the radiator.
Had to have the inlet and outlet on the radiator cut off and re-positioned so i could center the radiator in the grille.
Need a really long bolt so i can mount up my power steering. Otherwise, coming along smoothly. I still need to get my distributor gear swapped for a steel one, as well as the brake line to the rear. A drag link and tie-rod, and steering is done. Almost driveable!
|08-02-2013 03:16 PM|
Here's how it sits as of yesterday.
I welded up my spring perches, and made my body mounts for the frame and welded those on. Also had to clearance the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.
Unfortunately, i need a new output yoke that i can use to bolt the 1310 CV to.
|07-25-2013 02:22 PM|
found this page:
My rear driveline angle is ~20* with the pinion pointed at the tcase.
The XJ shaft can be clearanced for more, so i should be good to go.
|07-25-2013 09:38 AM|
Some decent info....
|07-25-2013 09:15 AM|
|07-25-2013 12:21 AM|
|Lloyd||Jess at High Angle might be able to help. He makes a couple 10-spline flanges for the D20 which should be very similar to the D18. High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875 - My Buildup His Toyota flange is non-CV but gives 41 degrees, and he does a 1350CV flange. Might be worth seeing what he can come up with.|
|07-24-2013 08:26 PM|
|Glennwoudenberg||would it work on a d300?|
|07-24-2013 07:08 PM|
|07-24-2013 06:03 PM|
|Mieser||Isn't the toyota CV a flange mount anyways? How hard would it be to just regdrill and bore a D18 style rear flange to the toyota pattern?|
|07-24-2013 05:35 PM|
For anybody searching.
You can't use a toyota double cardan. There's no conversion joint that fits the double cardan side of the shaft.
Having said that. My rear DS ends up at 15" with the rear pinion pointed at the tcase.
With the rear at an equal angle, the ds is 16.5" long, at an angle of 30*
|This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|