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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-12-2018 04:45 PM
Skip44
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
I've used this before to paint the inside of the factory boxed portion. It worked fairly well. However, I sold the frame a couple months after painting it so not sure how it held up longterm but seemed to stick fairly well and covered evenly.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html
I have never seen that, looks like an option if you can't get into an area. I have used UPOL Raptor on my TJ, YJ and other vehicles both on the frame and on the underside on them as well. I also used it inside on the YJ. Works well, goes on easy and cleans up easy. I plan on using it on my M38 frame too. I am just worried that it might burn off when I weld the plates on.
Skip
02-12-2018 04:21 PM
WILLYN It's messy but I used a piece of tig filler rod wrapped around a towel rag dipped in rustoleum primer. If the towel is big enough it fits pretty good.
I weld everything solid, a little at a time and back and forth. It seems like a lot of stuff you see pictures of stuff is only tacked, they never seem to say if they go back and weld it solid.
02-12-2018 03:51 PM
_xbombtek_ Resident of the dry South West too. Not super worried about water sticking around too long. My Dad just moved here from Florida and hes constantly reminding me to put drain holes in everything. Its kinda funny.

I spray bombed my frame rails and will be stitch welding the boxing plates between the Springs. I fully welded the frame horns.
02-12-2018 08:42 AM
GTOffroader I've used this before to paint the inside of the factory boxed portion. It worked fairly well. However, I sold the frame a couple months after painting it so not sure how it held up longterm but seemed to stick fairly well and covered evenly.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html
02-12-2018 07:16 AM
Que_Honda! I painted what I could but didn't worry to much about it since I live in the dry SW. I welded top and bottom the whole way in small sections (1-2") and moved side to side to keep things cool.

I wonder if you could paint it just by fogging it from each end? Or you could just grease/oil the inside to preserve it. I've hear of people doing this in the rust belt prior to the winter but not sure on the practicality.
02-12-2018 07:10 AM
Skip44
Boxed Frame

Those of you that have boxed your frame, how did you paint the inside of the frame and the boxing plates and how did you weld the plates on? Did you fully weld the top and bottom of the plates or just a set of short one inch welds?

Skip
02-03-2018 04:28 AM
csutton7 let me word this another way....what's the maximum dimension that the end of the pitman arm can be forward or behind the steering arm(depending on steering box placement on the frame) if the perfect set up is they are perfectly in-line with each other?
01-29-2018 04:47 AM
csutton7 Is there a rule of thumb for steering box placement? Like never have your pitman arm drag link connection more than "X" from the the steering arm drag link connection. I've been searching and I can't find anything that states a dimension that you should not exceed. There has to be some dimension not to exceed, like 6" or 12" or do they have to be aligned?

chris
01-26-2018 05:12 PM
_xbombtek_
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.


Ive got between 1-3 depending on where mine will get burned in. I was fiddling with it last night and the trans cooler I have is about 1 so fitting it will be pretty straightforward.
01-26-2018 07:47 AM
GTOffroader Based on my googleing it seems like a PS cooler is a very good idea with 35+ tires. There's just the damn lack of room in a Willy's engine bay.
01-26-2018 06:31 AM
lurch9
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
I was planning on the trans cooler in front of the radiator with a possible auxiliary cooler. I hadn't thought about a PS cooler. Is that really needed in a non-race vehicle?
You're not gonna race it? ...smh. lol. I have no educated response to your question, however, I'm going to run a PS cooler for the added capacity, for when I put a hydraulic assist ram on mine.
01-26-2018 06:23 AM
GTOffroader
Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch9 View Post
I've checked Home Depot, in both the plumbing and electrical depts, with no luck. Also checked Tractor Supply with no luck. Lowes is next on the list to check. Not sure what a Menards is, never seen one. Also gonna check our local Ace hardware store, they usually have stuff the big retailers don't stock.

I started laying out my harness the other day, and it looks like the firewall will be penetrated 3 times. $60 to run the wires is steep, but it is what it is.
Yea I agree with that. If 1 was needed it's tolerable but when you start needing multiple it adds up quick.

IIRC Menards is like a HD/Lowes/etc but they don't exist down around us.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch9 View Post
Are you going to run the trans cooler in front of the rad? Power steering cooler? Or do you plan on running remote coolers for those systems?
I was planning on the trans cooler in front of the radiator with a possible auxiliary cooler. I hadn't thought about a PS cooler. Is that really needed in a non-race vehicle?
01-26-2018 06:12 AM
lurch9
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOffroader View Post
Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.
Are you going to run the trans cooler in front of the rad? Power steering cooler? Or do you plan on running remote coolers for those systems?
01-26-2018 06:09 AM
lurch9 I've checked Home Depot, in both the plumbing and electrical depts, with no luck. Also checked Tractor Supply with no luck. Lowes is next on the list to check. Not sure what a Menards is, never seen one. Also gonna check our local Ace hardware store, they usually have stuff the big retailers don't stock.

I started laying out my harness the other day, and it looks like the firewall will be penetrated 3 times. $60 to run the wires is steep, but it is what it is.
01-26-2018 05:34 AM
GTOffroader Is there an optimum distance or rule of thumb distance between the grill and radiator? My googleing hasn't returned much on this topic.
01-26-2018 05:33 AM
GTOffroader I was just thinking about firewall penetrations the other day...

$20 for 1 grommet isn't bad when you consider we spend $1000+ on tires. Guess it depends on how many you need. That said I'd look at Home Depot/Lowes/etc first as well.
01-25-2018 06:43 PM
csutton7 that's pretty nice, but the price is stout!!! I wonder what resides in the plumbing dept of Lowe's, Home Depot, Menard's....etc.....that may work.
01-25-2018 12:59 PM
lurch9 What's everybody doing for firewall grommets? Found this online but its pricey. Grommet Seal-.400 I.D. Hole-2″ Diameter-Bellow Style Top-Part#GS50238 – Seals-It – Industrial Seal Manufacturer CT
I like the fact that you can tape the harness to the rubber to keep the elements out.
What's everybody else using?
09-08-2017 03:05 PM
csutton7 side carrier bearings off--was able to find a stout puller "T" and bought some " fine thread all-thread and nuts and with my bearing splitter and impact gun they came off without to much difficulty. Still spent about $90 bucks.
09-08-2017 08:21 AM
csutton7 can someone send me over two gorillas to remove the carrier bearings from a 14bolt diff?? Or if someone has a tip or trick I'm all ears, cuz my bearing splitter and 3 jaw puller are a joke and spending $200 plus for the Yukon puller for 2-3 bearing removals seems a bit excessive(plus I'd have to wait), but it may be my only way out, unless I take it to a machine shop($$$) or cut them off or I try and build a better set up myself and hope it works.
08-18-2017 08:02 AM
Overhauler
Quote:
Originally Posted by csutton7 View Post
Thoughts on the TMR dana 60 knuckle gusset kit? Sure beats
$660 for REID's on the price end, but strength end wise is it a waste? Seems there's decent results with the kits, but thought I'd ask the Willys Team.

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/axle-driv...kle-gusset-kit
I believe Oldtiming man has bought the kit but I know its not installed yet
08-17-2017 08:06 PM
csutton7 Thoughts on the TMR dana 60 knuckle gusset kit? Sure beats
$660 for REID's on the price end, but strength end wise is it a waste? Seems there's decent results with the kits, but thought I'd ask the Willys Team.

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/axle-driv...kle-gusset-kit
07-28-2017 08:17 AM
Que_Honda! 1. Run them if they're not dry or cracked.
2. Run them
3. 3/4ton frame or new tube frame
4. Not for a Willys, steering box brace for sure with big tires.
07-27-2017 09:53 PM
Overhauler
Quote:
Originally Posted by csutton7 View Post
some questions:

First Question: Would you replace the axle seals in an axle that sat for 4-5 years but never had the shafts installed? Seals and gears and locker installed at the same time but they were never run.

Second Question: what would you do to the locker & bearings in the above axle? Run them without hesitation or?

Third Question: Would you box a willys frame or adapt a 3/4 ton chevy frame to your Willys? (I believe Overhauler's frame is a chevy)

Fourth Question: Would you do anything to the chevy frame to make it stronger or would there be no need?
1 nope
2 run it
3 no box
4 haven't broke it yet. Just my bellhousing. And I drove it to loon.
07-27-2017 09:10 PM
csutton7 some questions:

First Question: Would you replace the axle seals in an axle that sat for 4-5 years but never had the shafts installed? Seals and gears and locker installed at the same time but they were never run.

Second Question: what would you do to the locker & bearings in the above axle? Run them without hesitation or?

Third Question: Would you box a willys frame or adapt a 3/4 ton chevy frame to your Willys? (I believe Overhauler's frame is a chevy)

Fourth Question: Would you do anything to the chevy frame to make it stronger or would there be no need?
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