Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Reply to Topic
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > General Tech > General 4x4 Discussion > Hole cutter recommendation for chassis fab
Notices

Thread: Hole cutter recommendation for chassis fab Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
05-08-2014 11:04 AM
ROXROES McMaster Carr deep cutting bimetal hole saws are blu mol brand. Best longest lasting holesaw I've ever used and they are only $5 each.
05-07-2014 08:11 PM
iwannabemro I've learned some good new ideas from this thread. When we drill 3/8 - 1/2" thick beams at work, we use rag with dish soap inside the holesaw, spray the outside with water. 2 1/2 and 3 1/2" hole saw will drill about twenty holes as long as you drill them with the drill in low and use Milwaukee or Lenox. Also predrilling the pilot will keep the holesaws from looking like a crystal meth head holesaw.
05-07-2014 07:18 PM
twiisted71 Oh I know, I don't let it bother me and I've politely asked the keyboard commandos to stay out of my threads before, if they aren't contributing to anything other than their ego. I grew up in a different time and place from the majority of members here. I just don't get anything out of acting that way.

If this should be in the tools section, any mod who sees it can feel free to move it. I wasn't sure in what direction it develop. I wouldn't have been surprised to hear that 1/4" would be better off done with a torch and cleaned up with a grinder.
05-07-2014 06:52 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by twiisted71 View Post
I know it doesn't take anymore effort to type than the typical foul responses some like to give with nothing of use and loads of ridicule and arrogance. Its almost like they don't know anything but just want to build a post count or they aren't sure of what they want to say and don't want to be proven wrong so its easier to type out 4 letter words and be vulgar or cruel.
youre over thinking it, thats just how pirate works
05-07-2014 06:48 PM
usmcdoc14
Quote:
Originally Posted by twiisted71 View Post
Thanks guys. I appreciate all the responses. This is the first thread I've ever gotten so many actually helpful replies instead of F you, F-that, and everyone calling each other out.
Use your mom's dentures and lube it with the tears gathered from your sorry life.











There, that better?
05-07-2014 06:41 PM
twiisted71
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockyota83 View Post
yes it does and its been covered more then once, i guess were feeling nice today
I figured I would be asking something others had gone over in the past. Unfortunately it seems the longer the internet is in operation the harder it is to do a search and actually get what you are looking for to come up within a reasonable number of results. I can remember when the information superhighway was no more than a dirt two track with little more than a dictionary and a Dollar Store at either end of it......and it doesn't seem like so long ago
I really do appreciate the help. I know it doesn't take anymore effort to type than the typical foul responses some like to give with nothing of use and loads of ridicule and arrogance. Its almost like they don't know anything but just want to build a post count or they aren't sure of what they want to say and don't want to be proven wrong so its easier to type out 4 letter words and be vulgar or cruel.
05-07-2014 06:31 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo169 View Post
This is all great info, but doesn't this belong in the Shop and Tools Forum.
yes it does and its been covered more then once, i guess were feeling nice today
05-07-2014 06:29 PM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWoodyWag View Post
swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
ive tried a few different types of oils and i prefer the water, its free and it evaporates leaving no mess, it also keeps the bit colder because i can continuously spray the water without worrying about wasting too much of it. my hole saws last for ever different strokes for different folks
05-07-2014 06:01 PM
twiisted71 Thanks guys. I appreciate all the responses. This is the first thread I've ever gotten so many actually helpful replies instead of F you, F-that, and everyone calling each other out.
I have a really old hand held drill gear reduction doo-dad that has a small (approx 1/4") input and a 1/2" chuck on the other!
05-07-2014 04:36 PM
Diablo169 This is all great info, but doesn't this belong in the Shop and Tools Forum.
05-07-2014 04:01 PM
usmcdoc14
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWoodyWag View Post
swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
I use a emulsion machining lube/coolant in a spray bottle, works a lot better and the cleanup is much easier. That and cost for cost with a properly diluted gallon is cheap as fuck.
05-07-2014 12:03 PM
'Mad Max'
Quote:
Originally Posted by CO80jeep View Post
Or put a sponge in the holesaw after soaking it in your preferred cutting lube. I use this method on my notcher.
...that's a damn fawking good idea right there
05-07-2014 11:25 AM
dropitlow88 lenox seems to be a decent hole saw. I mitered most of the tubes on my chassis with one saw. Only reason i had to get a new one is because it got hung up and broke a few of the teeth. make sure you have a good quality arbor. stripped the thread on two of them cutting through 1.75x.188
05-07-2014 11:12 AM
stinkbomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutt View Post
Pre-drill the hole/angle with a long 1/4" bit.

Use a 1/4" steel stock in your drill bit that is long enough to START through both holes...

You'll drill nice and square like the bastard is on a press..

Cleanest way is to bore 80% through one hole, switch sides and do the same, keeps the bore aligned better for both holes.

I am by no means a pro...But this method cut broken 1/4" bits WAY down, and its a tip i copied from this site somewhere along the way.
This. Anytime I use a holesaw, I always pre-drill the 1/4" hole. That way you can ease the holesaw in, instead of it hitting and biting when the pilot bit breaks through. I have a few different length pieces of 1/4" round bar with flats ground in them to tighten in the arbor. Also works for notching tube in a pinch, knock your pilots and notch away, cordless drills LOVE IT haha. Rota roaches are nice, but if they grab or you move in an angle, they like to shatter and they're not cheap to replace.

*edit* almost forgot a good trick, when drilling 1/8" and thicker material, score the circle with the holesaw, then take a small bit(I usually use a 1/4"), and drop a hole through the scored line, but not getting into the "outside" of the circle. This will allow the shavings to drop out of the hole and keep you from having to pull out and clean the teeth off repeatedly.
05-07-2014 10:49 AM
BigWoodyWag
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockyota83 View Post
and im willing to bet your drill is way too fast for a hole saw, which will burn it up and dull the teeth, i use a right angle drill that spins very slow and a bottle of water with a pin hole in the cap, squeeze it to spray water on the hole saw to keep it cool.

the 1/4" steel rod will work better on tube, the wood 2x4 will work better on flat
plate.
swap the water for oil, and you'll be much happier. I save old toothbrushes, and even the new base model ones from the dentist visits and dip and lay on my holesaws to get that oil cutting in there.
05-07-2014 10:42 AM
rockyota83
Quote:
Originally Posted by twiisted71 View Post
Thanks for the quick reply and technique tips. What I'm more concerned with is good and bad experiences with different saws. I've blunted off store brand saws trying to cut through 1/16 sheet before! Buying useless saws/bits gets expensive quick! I don't want to spend $50 per size but the 5 size kit for $10 is IMO nothing more than a wasted trip to the store and wasted money for this use.
and im willing to bet your drill is way too fast for a hole saw, which will burn it up and dull the teeth, i use a right angle drill that spins very slow and a bottle of water with a pin hole in the cap, squeeze it to spray water on the hole saw to keep it cool.

the 1/4" steel rod will work better on tube, the wood 2x4 will work better on flat
plate.
05-07-2014 10:41 AM
MNorby I have had a piece of 1/4" round stock in my hole arbor for quite a while, just easier to pre-drill everything 1/4" then the round stock can't woller out your pilot hole like a bit would. Also Matco hole saws are lifetime warrantee.
05-07-2014 10:23 AM
CO80jeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxblazer View Post
Look for some stuff called "Anchor lube" it's designed for Hogan bits and hole saws. It sticks to the bit and lubes great. I buy it buy the gallon jug for use with my hole saw notcher. Also if you need to go through the bottom of the frame, use you floor Jack under the drill. It works like using a grill press.
Or put a sponge in the holesaw after soaking it in your preferred cutting lube. I use this method on my notcher.
05-07-2014 10:03 AM
pdxblazer Look for some stuff called "Anchor lube" it's designed for Hogan bits and hole saws. It sticks to the bit and lubes great. I buy it buy the gallon jug for use with my hole saw notcher. Also if you need to go through the bottom of the frame, use you floor Jack under the drill. It works like using a grill press.
05-07-2014 10:00 AM
twiisted71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Provience View Post
Sheemetal tears up hole saws faster than 1/8"+ stuff will.
I need to put in some dash holes for gauges. Jigsaw cant cut a radius that tight and Greenlee knockout punches ain't 'zactly cost effective for a handful of holes.
05-07-2014 09:57 AM
twiisted71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutt View Post
.They are all junk but these aren't as junky
LOL, I think that should be their slogans!!
05-07-2014 09:53 AM
Provience Sheemetal tears up hole saws faster than 1/8"+ stuff will.
05-07-2014 09:52 AM
Mutt I've had the best luck with milwaukee, lenox, and irwin hole saws...They are all junk but these aren't as junky
05-07-2014 09:36 AM
twiisted71 Thanks for the quick reply and technique tips. What I'm more concerned with is good and bad experiences with different saws. I've blunted off store brand saws trying to cut through 1/16 sheet before! Buying useless saws/bits gets expensive quick! I don't want to spend $50 per size but the 5 size kit for $10 is IMO nothing more than a wasted trip to the store and wasted money for this use.
05-07-2014 09:27 AM
Mutt Pre-drill the hole/angle with a long 1/4" bit.

Use a 1/4" steel stock in your drill bit that is long enough to START through both holes...

You'll drill nice and square like the bastard is on a press..

Cleanest way is to bore 80% through one hole, switch sides and do the same, keeps the bore aligned better for both holes.

I am by no means a pro...But this method cut broken 1/4" bits WAY down, and its a tip i copied from this site somewhere along the way.
This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.