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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2016 07:32 PM
mcrob0202
tj

42,s 14 c/o,s highline fenders sits lower than a buddies yj on 4 inch spring over with 38,
https://youtu.be/CO_6eHmjpfw
07-02-2016 07:06 PM
the freeak Nice. Let's see some more!
07-02-2016 03:41 PM
rckchucker Mine...Scout II steering box, 3 link, 7" stretch up front, 19" frame height and 7" up travel





03-28-2016 01:37 PM
roger201
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockslammer84 View Post
$330 is what i was quoted, not sure if that included shipping though.
ijust picked mine up from him. i paid 450
03-27-2016 06:48 PM
gtxracer Forgot to post mine, 7.5" uptravel with ~6" stretch





03-27-2016 05:35 PM
Rugger99 95 YJ with the 2.5l... 6" uptravel and 2.5" stretch.
03-27-2016 01:05 PM
twiisted71
Quote:
Originally Posted by twiisted71 View Post

Haven't seen many others besides me doing an outside the frame steering box on a Jeep. The Ford group should have several pics of outside frame boxes though most will likely be a rear facing pitman. Luckily for me I was into '70s Fords long before I bought my first Jeep and had a stash pile that has allowed me to build my 'Jeep' with factory parts that are WAY stronger than stock (just not from the Jeep factory!)
03-27-2016 12:49 PM
obijuank5 Anyone else get anything done with chopping off the front frame? Particularly mounting am outside the rail steering box?
08-28-2015 10:50 PM
gearhead1985 How low are you looking to go? I have retained all of the stock frame rails (only notched in the rear for coil over clearance) have 20" under the belly with a flat skid with 6" of up travel on all 4 corners with 14" coilovers on 38" tsl's I will have 22" of clearance when I go to 42's . If I would push the motor up I can get it lower but I don't need to drag the skid over every rock
The cj bump stops are just to not here metal on metal clanking all day

Full bump full lock half inch of clearance

The only reason I could stuff the axle so far up is I used a 79 ford Dana 60 any other axle the pumpkin will hit the frame my upper control arm bolts are even with the crank centerline

When I stuff the lq4 I plan on cutting off the frame at the firewall and redoing everything just cause it will be easier than trying to keep the frame
08-28-2015 06:53 AM
neagtech Here's mine. Slow progress but coming along.
06-04-2015 11:12 PM
Diablo169 ^ I agree. My original plan was to cut the frame, but when I played around with link mounting locations, I realized I can get the jeep actually lower than I wanted.

Granted I don't have a steering box. If I moved the ram higher, nothing would fit. This is a 3-Link setup, and everything clears perfect. I think it's all how you plan it out. Moving the center link lower makes it stronger anyways, spreads the load across the knuckle better.

At this point I think even a 35" tire is into the hood. These fenders are about 2" higher than stock.

06-04-2015 03:30 PM
twiisted71 I've noticed a lot of people trying to build a lower than typical suspension using large tires BUT they still try to use high steer arms or some version that lifts their tie rod because its popular. On these types of builds I've seen the linkage become the limiting factor on uptravel. If not building a rock crawler and still concerned about hitting the linkage perhaps a guard protruding from the leading edge of the axle to protect steering would be a better option than lifting the steering.
This was just my situation and observations. I'll go back to stare at the sun now
06-04-2015 01:06 PM
stan o Here is mine, been working on it for a few months. I actually cut the front and rear frames and came out level from the highest points. It raised the bed floor about 2.5". Attachment 1791489

Attachment 1791497

Attachment 1791505

Attachment 1791513
Full bump, lowest part of the frame is 15" now. Ride height is 7" up.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
06-04-2015 05:45 AM
twiisted71 Realized I didn't show the steering box on my set-up or how I ended up doing my frame. Since this was my first attempt at this extensive of a frame mod, I was worried about making sure it was strong/safe enough for street usage. The 3x3x.25 tubing was close to the original frame strength, the 2x3x.188 angle I added underneath it puts it well over stock. It also gives nearly a 1/2" x 3" bar running through the middle of it! Steering box~frame flex should not be an issue even with larger tires! This frame height also gave enough real estate to mount the steering and suspension components without needing any extra gee-gaws to compensate for leverage.

This shot shows the pitman arm clearance. I used a 1979 Ford F150 4x4 box. This allows the pitman to be on the outside of the frame resulting in a longer draglink (better angle) as well as more space between the frame rails. This is especially important if doing a significant stretch.



I don't remember what stock measurements were but now my frame height is 20.5", 8.7" front axle stretch (32.5" ahead of 1st tub body mount bolt vs 23.8 according to blue prints I've found online.). and the bottom of the tub is 26" from the ground. This is on 37" tires.



The only possible change I could see at this time would be to shorten the track bar an inch or so to move the frame mount inward a bit so it wouldn't interfere with suspension travel. We'll see.
06-03-2015 11:13 PM
gtxracer Bump. Any others? Been looking at tubed out front frames lately but would like to see others too.
11-09-2014 12:56 PM
twiisted71 Here's what I did to mine a while back. Still figuring out what I want for a shock length at ride height. I'm thinking 6.5" up travel will give 4.5-5" flat and 6" during articulation. I'll have a limit strap to ensure I don't jam the coilover. I'm using 3x3x 0.25 tube for front rails. I pie cut the frame so I can bend the top and bottom plates to get the best fit possible. I also drilled out some large holes on the tops and sides of the new rails to make large plug welds. I used a deflection calculator and by using 1/4" wall tube I didn't lose too much strength dropping down from the 4" height of the original rails.





11-05-2014 07:14 PM
Deadman 94 xj https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...-daylight.html

You can see what I did for my CJ on leaf springs. Just knotch out the frame for highsteer.
11-03-2014 05:36 PM
knixon804
Quote:
Originally Posted by stan o View Post
NICE! Build thread?
No build thread. Don't really have time for it
10-28-2014 09:18 AM
PUNISHER TA
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurleygo3 View Post
What's going on with the front suspension? Airshocks and 1000hp? What do you plan to do with that thing?
Im really not looking to derail this thread. Just wanted to show how I tied my front section together, I had a hell of a time figuring it out. Turned out pretty different.

haha. I was having a hell of a time posting pictures last night, while I couldn't sleep.

My first post did seem a lot like "hey look at me", so I frantically tried to add pictures to make my point and didn't realize I added unfinished pictures.

I ran out of money(awhile ago), so Im just throwing the D30 back in with stock suspension for now. The upper arms are now tied into the engine mounts. Conceptually its pretty hill-jack, running stock suspension, but it actually turned out pretty clean.

Im not sure how the airshocks will work, Im new to all this, and on a budget(obviously). Plans for the jeep, idk, I never could balance time between my racecar and my jeep, so I combined them. This will suffice to do both tasks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus1000 View Post
Neat! How'd you bend the grill?
Nothing fancy, just cut slats.

(Im going to have a grill cut out of 1/8 on a plasma table to replace this)
10-28-2014 08:29 AM
maximus1000
Quote:
Originally Posted by PUNISHER TA View Post
Modified front frame to allow for more uptravel



Neat! How'd you bend the grill?
10-28-2014 07:35 AM
hurleygo3 What's going on with the front suspension? Airshocks and 1000hp? What do you plan to do with that thing?
10-28-2014 12:21 AM
PUNISHER TA
Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerDan View Post
That has absolutely nothing to do with the OP's question or anything else in this thread.
Modified front frame to allow for more uptravel... yes I can see your point.

Sure I took a different route, but it definitely relates. I think it's a great idea, as all that cowl space is wasted if you don't run HVAC. which anybody that's build a wrangler, knows is at a premium. I'm sure this could spark idea for at least a few.



10-27-2014 11:49 PM
DozerDan
Quote:
Originally Posted by PUNISHER TA View Post
Here's my build. A bit different than most. Seeing as its 35s and narrow axles. Yes, packaging sucks! Theres a 1000whp turbo kit in there too.

On 35" KM2s I have 5.5" belly at full bump. Engine is set back 6.5" and to the passenger side 1.5". 16" travel airshocks front and rear.

That has absolutely nothing to do with the OP's question or anything else in this thread.
10-27-2014 11:31 PM
PUNISHER TA Here's my build. A bit different than most. Seeing as its 35s and narrow axles. Yes, packaging sucks! Theres a 1000whp turbo kit in there too.

On 35" KM2s I have 5.5" belly at full bump. Engine is set back 6.5" and to the passenger side 1.5". 16" travel airshocks front and rear.





10-27-2014 09:36 AM
rockslammer84
Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus1000 View Post
Whats he asking for it?
$330 is what i was quoted, not sure if that included shipping though.
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