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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-21-2005 01:28 PM
pcoplin Doing a compression test won't always give you the right numbers, due to the wet cylinder as stated above. A leakdown test is a much better test, plus if it's bad you can actually hear where the air is going (head or crankcase).

If it's the valves leaking, it;ll likely smoke like a bastard on start up and also on decell (high vacuum) when driving.

Good luck.
05-21-2005 11:44 AM
Black Sabbath A trick I learned on the valves vs rings debate was to run a compression test as normal, then run a second adding a few squirts of oil to the cylinder right before you test it. Just make sure not to add too much and hydrolock the cylinder The added oil should help to seal up the rings so if your compression numbers jump quite a bit it is probably your rings.
05-21-2005 09:48 AM
SlamChops yeah, i'll have to agree with Halogrinder. There's way too much oil getting in there. I'd do a compression test just to get a better idea of how it's doing. If i remember correctly, if it's burning smoke at start-up, and then clears up it's most likely valve stems; and if it's clear at start-up, then begins to smoke it's most likely rings. Last time I rebuilt a buddy's 22re I replaced both just to make sure it's all fresh.
05-21-2005 08:19 AM
Alabamatoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Halogrinder
this means, that both have know idea WTF they are talking about and want to increase their post count......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Halogrinder
why do you need them read? are you having a driving problem or running problem? or just curious?
Its stuttering a bit at constant throttle, like maintaining speed on the road....that and just trying to get it as close to "right" as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Halogrinder
This situation is caused by oil and/or fuel additives.
Yeah, its using a wee bit of oil. Its got somewhere around 50K on a rebuild. I am just trying to tell how things are going inside....

Thanks.
05-21-2005 07:55 AM
Halogrinder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambler Jimmy
The ash deposits are gonna keep anyone from doing a true condition reading on those plugs. There are many write-ups on the web - pop 'spark plug reading' into a search engine and figure it out yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90YJ
Open up any hayes manual turn to the back pages and find out for yourself.


this means, that both have know idea WTF they are talking about and want to increase their post count.....

why do you need them read? are you having a driving problem or running problem? or just curious?


This situation is caused by oil and/or fuel additives. When the deposits are found on only one side of the spark plug core nose, it is usually considered to be a problem with the cylinder head (valve stem seals or valve guides). When they are found on both sides of the spark plug, it is often considered to be a problem sealing at the piston rings. This condition can mask the spark and, in some cases, contribute to misfire. Check for worn valve guides and valve stem seals and/or piston rings. The spark plug is the correct heat range and was a victim of the engine's condition, not the cause of it.
05-21-2005 07:45 AM
Red90YJ Open up any hayes manual turn to the back pages and find out for yourself.
05-21-2005 07:40 AM
Scrambler Jimmy The ash deposits are gonna keep anyone from doing a true condition reading on those plugs. There are many write-ups on the web - pop 'spark plug reading' into a search engine and figure it out yourself.
05-21-2005 05:36 AM
Alabamatoy
Reading the plugs

I need some old-timers to do a spark plug reading for me. What do these say about the condition of the engine? Rich, lean, hot, cold, etc In order, cylinders 1 through 4 from left to right.


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