|06-17-2019 07:57 AM|
|DMANbluesfreak||Lookin good! Excited to see it close to completion!|
|06-17-2019 07:46 AM|
rear suspension is tacked in place - I used 63" Procomp leafs, #13211, and 6" ODR supershackles. I put 4 of the wheels/tires in the bed to try to simulate a full load - the rear leafs compress 7 inches before supporting the weight - nice and flexy. Next the cab comes off and all the final frame welding, exhaust, and more get done, then it'll be time to actually 'assemble' the truck for good . Progress!
no load -
loaded up 4 of the big meats, and I can't lift these by myself - well I probably could but it might wreck my back trying, so I'm guessing these weigh about 200 lbs each...so the weight should be a decent simulation of rear bumper, topper, gear etc - not exact but good enough to wag the shackle mount placement...which I can always adjust if needed. Frenched in the mounts like the front - worked great.
|06-12-2019 07:51 AM|
Scored a good used hydrobooster from a 99 Cummins Ram and it's at Vanco for the hi-flow treatment. Meanwhile the front suspension is tacked in place (sold my previous Chevy unit to a buddy for his build). Like my last rig I'm using a set of the big beefy Super Shackles from Offroad Design - they're actually intended for a rear application but because they're bulletproof and 'deflection proof' I like using them for the front too - these are the 4.5" shackles, and I'm using the 6" units in back. With the majority of weight on the wheels I've got a 23* shackle angle, and 6* of positive 'street friendly' caster at the kingpins - should be just about perfect.
After examining 5 different sets of front leafs I settled on a set of 48" Skyjackers for a Chevy, #C125S - these had the majority of my preferred options, the two biggest being available 'off-the-shelf' (not custom made) and top leaf design (eyelets angled 'up' at both ends - which gave me an ideal caster angle with no shims), plus also including length, lift (2.5"), tall bolted keepers, 5 leafs (not 4), and bushing size (1-1/8"). ORD sells poly bushings for these that utilize 9/16 bolts so got a set of those, tho they were for a Chevy application so they were 3.5" wide which I trimmed down to an even 3".
The frame has a very odd shape right where I wanted to put the rear fixed mount so to keep things simple I frenched the mount into the frame - worked great -
good clearance to the deep truck pan, tho I might plane off the d-side front edge for some additional clearance to the differential webbing -
Progress. Rear suspension is next -
|05-24-2019 08:37 AM|
so the hydrobooster pressure cylinder hits the valve cover - I need some hydrobooster hardware from a 1999-era Dodge Cummins truck (maybe a gasser?) - anyone have one of these little master cylinder adapters (and the longer pushrod) that came on the 1999 era Cummins Dodge trucks that I could buy from ya?
|04-18-2019 06:59 AM|
|'Mad Max'||...that's the basic plan...unless I need to relocate the bed mounts in order to fit the 40" spare - won't know for sure until I start measuring everything. I'm also moving the bed back about 2 inches total so I can install a stout roll bar main hoop between the cab and bed, which will ultimately be the core for the exo cage, which will still enable me to use a standard topper on the bed.|
|04-17-2019 07:14 PM|
Looking great! I like the dye job for those boots. And that frame widening looks interesting. I might have to take that on someday haha. I assume you're keeping the body mounts in the same location on the bed, just raising them to build in the body lift?
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
|04-15-2019 07:34 AM|
Here's some info on a little side project I had brewing for the truck. So I'm going with RCV shafts in front D60 and the CV seals are bright blaze orange - not exactly my first choice of colors but it's the only color available. I wanted to at least 'subdue' the orange (or change the color all together) and I considered Plasti-Dip spray, normal spray primer/paint, or dying them, and dying them with Rit DyeMore Synthetic Graphite Dye worked perfectly.
I found a thread on the net from a guy that dyed some plastic interior parts with great results - they weren't polyurethane parts but the process sounded plausible so I basically tried the same thing -
First I 'scuffed' the seals with #3 steel wool to knock down some of the super smooth shiny surface and provide some 'tooth'. Then I took a 2-quart pot and filled it with tap water high enough to cover one seal, added about 1/3 cup of acetone, and using a camping stove (not the nice one in the kitchen ) brought it to about 175 degrees (not boiling), added about 1/2 bottle of the Rit synthetic graphite dye, let it simmer a few minutes, then dropped in the test bushing - a bright shiny red suspension bushing, and after only about 1 minute the bushing was completely black - it was like it had been anodized. Cut a sliver away and you can see the depth. Scratched it very aggressively and no red shown through. Okay, sold - drop in a CV seal and see what happens.
Again it took maybe 5 minutes total to completely dye the CV seals black - it couldn't have worked any better
As well as it worked I don't know if scuffing with steel wool...or using the acetone...was really necessary. The long-term test will be to see if the dying process 'damaged' the seals - I doubt it did, and I applied some F21 protectant just to 'condition' the seals, just for good measure.
So now the colors on my dark blue and otherwise 'subdued' truck will all match nicely. Was a fun chemistry experiment too
Here's a link to the Rit dye - https://www.ritdye.com/products/graphite/
Here's some pics -
|04-10-2019 06:32 PM|
|04-10-2019 06:12 PM|
|Elwenil||I wonder how much 5 gallons of gas will cost on a trail, hours away from the closest gas station, $50? $100?|
|04-10-2019 07:49 AM|
...yeah it'll be thirsty, but really the 360 only got about 12 mpg anyway - will be real interesting to see what the mpg is on the highway - might be the same as what the 360 was in stock form - maybe even better
The aux tank will be able to fill the main tank on the fly, or with the flip of a valve I'll also be able to fill an ATV or go cart or someone else's truck if they get low...
|04-09-2019 02:55 PM|
|Twmdodge99||Looks good, certainly creative way to get more fuel under that thing, lords knows you’ll need it with that engine you’ve got.|
|04-09-2019 11:24 AM|
|'Mad Max'||current plan is to access the spare from above via a big trap door in the bed. Thought about dropping it out the bottom same way the factory did it, but I'll need the height under the bed to get the tire up high enough to clear the 14b so I'm removing most of the bracing under the trap door and I'll use the spare itself to 'support' that portion of bed floor...at least that's the plan. Considering the bed won't be carrying 'massive' loads there shouldn't be any problems. Not planning to fab up a 'well' for the tire to sit in - it won't need to be 'sealed', just a basic cage to contain the tire, plus some kind of rock/debris shield. Meh - that'll likely sort itself out once I start fabricating things - see what works and what doesn't...|
|04-09-2019 11:16 AM|
How are you going to access the spare, mechanical winch or a "carrier" for lack of a better term? Is it going to have a skid plate to protect the tire? Just curiosities. Looking good, looks like the second tank filler is going to work like factory too.
|04-09-2019 09:42 AM|
once the alignment was confirmed, lots of gusseting with 1/8" plate (same thickness as the frame) -
top and bottom plates like these (top is 1/8", bottom is 'rock-resistant' 1/4") -
boxed completely all the way back with 1/8" -
and then in-boarding/lifting the cab and core support mounts enabling the use of all the OE bushings and bolts -
Of course there's plenty of finish welding and such, but it's done enough to continue with mock-up, and then comes the engine and trans mounts, belly cradle, gas tank mounts, and finally, "suspension".
|04-09-2019 09:41 AM|
time for an update -
so this truck...like all the ones before it...is intended to be our family 'overlanding' off-road machine - multi-day backwoods camping/adventure wheeling with no support vehicle, and with that in mind...as I pondered how best to box the frame...well I had a couple other thoughts pop into my mad brain...which prompted me to do a couple other minor frame mods to increase the overall overlanding potential while also making the most of the available room between the frame/under the body.
The OE design of the Dakota's frame was for a single long gas tank on the driver side...which 'forces' both the driveshaft and exhaust over to the passenger side, and also angles the whole engine/transmission also the passenger side. Now, that's okay...but as I pondered how thirsty the 440 was gonna be (and it's gonna be thirsty) the thought popped into my head of 'Gee - wouldn't it be sweet if there was room for a second Dakota gas tank along the passenger side'...and about that same time I was also trying to forecast where the heck to stow the big 40" spare tire. I learned from Bud that putting a giant tire in the bed essentially renders 80% of the bed useless for stowing gear...and we'd sure like to have the whole bed to stow camping gear, etc, soooo...hmmm - if the frame were wide enough for a second gas tank...maybe it could also fit a 40" spare tire back there more or less how the factory does it...and that my friends led to a few beers with my buddy Ben to discuss how stupid of an idea it would be to widen the frame, pros and cons, etc...and we determined it wouldn't be any big deal so...naturally...out came the deathwheel...
I've been able to squeeze in about 8-10 hrs a week over the last 6 weeks widening the frame 3.5" per side, as well as boxing it all the way back, whilst also 'in-boarding' 4 of the 6 cab mounts...whilst also incorporating a 1.5" body lift on all of them. The frame was already factory boxed up to just before the front edge of the gas tanks, so that's where I cut the frame, plated and gusseted it, then capped off the top and bottom.
It's been quite the 'procedure', but now I'll be able to carry 48 gallons of fuel and a 40" spare - all under the body, with (according to both eyeball and paper math) plenty of room for rear axle articulation...and the entire bed is open for all the gear the family might need. Boyahh
Here's the end result -
and for reference here's how it looked before -
Here's how I did it -
First, surgically remove 1/4" of frame via two parallel cuts with the trusty deathwheel to sever the frame completely -
1/4" plate main extension -
|02-19-2019 06:15 PM|
...I think I now know how the pyramids were built...
- got the chassis back under the body and then incrementally jacked the whole schmeal up to about 28" of belly clearance, including the 3" body lift - all-in right about where I think the ride height will be. Lots of nice clearance around the driveline, and the t-case fits nicely when clocked flat -
|02-19-2019 12:22 PM|
...quick pic of the Atlas hanging off the back of the 46rh - it slipped right into place just like it had been there from day one. Haven't got the clocking dialed in yet so left it 'high' to check the clearance against the cab later today or tomorrow, and I'll also confirm whether a set of big block valve covers will clear a Dakota vacuum booster without a body lift (I don't think it will, but since I'm doing hydroboost and a 3" body lift it'll be moot - but I still wanna know).
Also, FYI this is how much longer a RH is compared to an RE (tape mark on the frame is where the 46RE ended)
|02-17-2019 04:43 PM|
...woot! - it fits!
The 46RH bolted up to the same crossmember bracket the 46RE used, which 'located' the driveline same-same as the 360/46RE was. Bolted up the 440, and test-fitted the core support leaving all of the Dakota OEM radiator Tupperware in place - it didn't fit nearly at all - was about two inches shy of bolting in place and clearing the fan. I unbolted all of the Tupperware, then unbolted the aux electric radiator cooling fan (which I don't see any need for in the first place with a mechanical fan and fan clutch), put the core support back on, and the 440 fits just like it was supposed to be there, including a nice 1.5" of clearance between the fan clutch and radiator. Plus, with the 3" body lift the radiator moved up which perfectly centered the radiator with the 440's fan - bonus. I'll fab up a fan shroud, coolant and washer fluid reservoirs, and that's that. I'll set the cab back on the frame and confirm everything for good, then with the cab, core support and fenders all bolted up I'll confirm the front axle placement, and once that's done I can finally confirm what kind of oil pan I can use. Once that's done the rest is just connecting the dots.
|01-30-2019 12:47 PM|
mine are 452's. All I know is the compression height was slightly higher than the ones that came out of it, tho it had .030-over pistons in it when I took it apart - it looked like it had been rebuilt...or at least 'refreshed' at least once - I do not know if they were factory spec compression height slugs but they were definitely not anything fancy - basic flat tops.
My best guess on CR now is between 8.5 and 9.5-1
|01-30-2019 09:23 AM|
What head are you running, 452? I wonder what your true comp ratio is. It's been quite some time since I had my 70 440 apart, but with the stock pistons I think they were like .060 or .070 down @ TDC. My memory says that I calc'd it at just under 9.5:1 with FelPro .040 comp gaskets and 346 heads (which are virtually identical to 906 and 452 heads). Just curiosities stumbling around in my mind.
|01-29-2019 01:45 PM|
|'Mad Max'||yah that was with the slug at TDC, but no I did not measure how far down in the hole it was. The pistons are OE replacements, but I do know the kit came with 9-1 slugs vs the late 70's spec 8-1's - IIRC they're a bit taller compression height measured at the wrist pin. Sorry tho I don't have the actual specs.|
|01-29-2019 11:34 AM|
Quick question about your engine. In the pic of the short block, is #1 at TDC, and if so did you measure how far below deck it is? I assume those are stock replacement low comp pistons. I'd appreciate that number if you have it.
|01-29-2019 08:31 AM|
...got some minor disassembly done - now it's time to figure out how to make everything fit the way I want...
another thing I did before taking it all apart (and thanks Ed for the idea) was to conduct a 'test' to try to determine a bit more about what the PCM actually controls, and I like what I found out. While the truck was still intact - before I disconnected all of the wiring and separated the chassis - I turned the key to [run] and confirmed all of the interior functions like the HVAC/blend doors, radio, turn signals/lights, windows and locks, mirrors, etc, all functioned normally - including bumping the starter, which they did. Then, I disconnected the three big terminals at the PCM and ran the test again 'PCM-less', and all of the interior systems (including the 'start' circuit) functioned as before. I couldn't confirm whether the A/C functioned normally but I can get around that.
So...other than the A/C, it appears I will no longer need the PCM - at all, which is good because I didn't want it in there in the first place. There is another computer under the dash - can't recall the exact name for it - but I'll continue to need it for the interior functionality and that's fine. All I'll need is separate sub-stations for solid B+ and 12v-switched power and grounds, and all of the new driveline systems (EFI, sensors, gauges, etc) will function normally.
Anyway, I'd long been wondering whether I'd still 'need' the PCM for anything after the driveline swap, and apparently the answer is 'no', and I thought that was worth mentioning.
|01-22-2019 12:02 PM|
thanks for the tip on lubing the rear die - I thought about connecting the front and rear pressure dies with a half cylinder of steel tubing and just have the cage tubing 'slide' along that - would be a lot less pressure on the dies...
Just read through your thread - lots of solid fab work there. Mine's going to be more of an expedition style truck - I'll be towing with it and doing multi-day camping gigs. In a lot of ways it'll be pretty basic, with a real solid driveline.
|01-22-2019 11:41 AM|
|Twmdodge99||Engine is looking sweet. I have the same bender, it is great! Make sure to lube the back pressure die well though, I had some galling happen on mine early on. I posted a Dakota build in general 4x4 you should check out too. Dak attack is the name.|
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