|06-19-2019 03:56 PM|
Finished and it work great!
Had a young friend stop by who is a welder for EB.
Now he did some finish up welding.
Now it can take on compacting dirt AND Russian Attack subs!
And it's running like a scalded dog.
Now that I'm done with this shit time to finish the curtain drain.
|06-19-2019 11:26 AM|
Stone floor moisture comes right up from ground.
Rods were being difficult to start a bead.
Like I said I am not used a stick welder in like 12-13 years.
I got good penetration. That's all I care about.
I never claimed to be a welder. That is why when I worked at caterpillar dealerships.
I let the welders do the welding.
|06-19-2019 05:16 AM|
|fredycruger||did you forgot to buy welding helmet ?|
|06-19-2019 01:45 AM|
Mad sleep depraved rant on
First time in over 12 years I've done any stick welding.
In the videos I'm wearing shorts and flip-flops while welding LOL
I have a welding apron, do you think my dumb ass will wear it?
I feel sorry for people who see something that's broken, that's all they see "broken".
I see what it takes and how to do the job, well that part takes like 5 minutes.
Getting the money, the non-freezing your ass off temps helps
That part takes around a year.
Compactor finished to-
to finish the curtain drain-to finish basement playroom for a Lego free living room
BUT WAIT!!! Need stone to make curtain drain and dry-well.
With a useless garage that has a processed stone floor.
-getting Concrete in my garage and no more stone floor!!!-
All part of my evil plan to have a concrete floor in my garage after 12 years whahahahahahaha
Mad sleep depraved rant off!
And a year later I am almost finished with compactor
I will finish it later when I wake up.
Oh yea I will be compacting mudd tomorrow LOL
|06-19-2019 01:39 AM|
Today was a rain out day so I thought I'd do some plate compactor fabrication.
You know since I have to compact allot of dirt so I bought a plate compactor for $100.00 off Craig's list.
The next cheapest one was like $500.00 and looked like shit.
So I figure what the hell.
$100 Plate compactor
$12 carburetor throttle shaft
$200 shitty Lotos 3500 plasma cutter
$12 for PT-31 plasma cutter handle better quality and cheaper consumables.
Hell for almost $24 I got the handle and almost a lifetime supply of replacement tips.
I got a Stick welder 160 amp shit-box for $169.99.
I bought a new Lincoln Electrode holder $12 Copper terminal end for the welder lead cable to the Lincoln electrode holder.
Bottom plate is trash.
Old steal brittle 3/16
New steal 5/16 wear resistant steel cost $70 fr the plate and as luck would have it a perfect fit on one axis.
I cleaned this out with Muriatic acid, then neutralized with baking soda and lots of water.
This is when I found out the Lotos Plasma cutter tips are $37.99 for 5 sets. Are you fucking kidding me?
So I said fuck that I'll replace the handle.
So the PT-31 was the same range very popular and the replacement shit is dirt cheap.
I did the swap the plasma cutter is freaking way better I LOVE IT!
I thought I was the first one the do the swap, but I was NOT and a gentleman did it a year ago and people have still not caught on.
I give him full cudos and credit.
I did think of it independently.
I did make videos I will put up on youtube.
The plate fits perfectly from side to side.
I had to keep trimming a little from the front over and over.
It is very easy to take off, but can be a real bitch putting it back on.
So now I am using 7018 Rods at 130 amps.
1/8 inch Diameter.
Tack welding 180 degrees out to prevent warping.
I even welded to the stingers in the rear of the plate.
|05-29-2019 06:37 PM|
It's raining today/night.
Sloped and running downhill.
That top pipe will later be plumbed to the downspout, at the start.
At the outlet end the short 90 is to keep the pipe clean.
The 90 degree fitting will continue around the basement wall , with sleeved pipe.
I bought the sleeve separate, but I found it easy enough to install.
At the connectors I put the a little of the sleeve inside the connectors to hold it in place.
The 45 degree fitting will be for the downspout.
Now when I finish the rock fill along the front, I shall dig the side and throw it's dirt on top of the finished curtain drain to save having to throw it up 7 feet in the air.
I will also use the newly dug dirt to back fill the drainage trench.
Here is where i'm getting the rock yea, I clean it first.
Fuck I'm tired.
|05-19-2019 02:02 PM|
Down to grade. Got it sloped to the exit trench and tamped down, thunderstorms tomorrow.
And it slopes down to the exit tench for a rain sump.
My ass is dragging, now off to do my 12 hour shift at work.
|05-16-2019 12:07 PM|
Then the walk behind compactor I bought goes to work.
Then above the fire/ice "center line" I will start my curtain drain.
Sloping downhill into a dry-well.
I did the side of the house last year.
I am replacing the processed stone floor in my garage to something more fucking useful.
I made a deal with the wife, Concrete floors in garage for finished half basement.
|05-16-2019 12:02 PM|
At 5 foot from the bottom of the window to the top of the basement floor.
I got 1 more foot and I'm going to clean and seal that wall.
it's easy enough to dig by hand, it's not like i'm a millennial.
|05-16-2019 09:44 AM|
|KWTMECH||Post 43-----is that rebar sticking out of the concrete? if so good place for the water to wick in. Break off and fill with dry-loc then butter it with tar|
|05-16-2019 09:24 AM|
|05-16-2019 09:16 AM|
Pirate definitely isn't the same with him gone.
|05-16-2019 09:14 AM|
|Aisin||This thread is only a year old. It hurt to read Screwzers replies. He really was a huge part of this board as much as he pissed us off at times. This place just isn’t the same. Rest easy Clark.|
|05-16-2019 09:08 AM|
I never thought about insulation though. Adding costs up now.
I ran a socked sleeve along the side of my house and used Dry lock on the wall inside and out. 2 coats on the outside.
I did put soil fabric down to lay my rock in to keep the silt out of the drain field.
Down to 4 foot deep 1 more foot to be level with top of basement floor.
I am thinking about a dry well, as i am only getting maybe 5 gallons after a very hard rain.
|05-16-2019 08:34 AM|
What's with the rebar coming out of the foundation? What's that for?
|05-16-2019 07:31 AM|
|Bubba the Red||Google RadonSeal|
|05-16-2019 07:07 AM|
Wife wants a play room for the kids toys.
I have the same problem.
I put in one Curtain drain last year, on the driveway side of the house.
Now this year the front of the house. Hand digging, I'm 58 years old.
Yea it's an ass-kicker but some of my high school classmates are dead.
|07-25-2018 02:14 PM|
Nope. The outer wall was already spackled and the water wasnít coming through the wall itself so I didnít waste my time or money on that. As I see it the only thing I could do is remove the ability for water to enter through that unprotected 4Ē ledge and remove the water from around the house as quickly as possible while also providing a large available space for water to congregate before flowing downhill.
Iím hoping to get the flashing done this weekend and weíre suppose to get hammered with rain Sunday so that should prove its effectiveness. Or lack thereof
|07-25-2018 02:10 PM|
|KWTMECH||Nice update. Was there any sealing of the wall before the insulation board?|
|07-25-2018 01:14 PM|
Just thought I'd update the thread a bit seeing as how I'm on the tail end of this project.
First things first, there weren't any footers so I didn't have a seam between that and the walls to seal.
The foundation ended up being 2 rows of cinder block with a single row of cinder block stacked on top (this is what the house actually sits on) and the outer row of block was spackled over. Due to this I could not use a membrane wrap as that 4" ledge would have cut the membrane.
What I did was cut the insulation board at the same height as the top of the double wall foundation.
The plan is to clean off that failed mortar on the 4" ledge and bend up some flashings to go over the ledge and over the face of that below grade insulation. There will be insulation over that ledge (under the flashing) and insulation against the single wall foundation (over the face of the flashing. That should keep the water from getting in through that ledge. The exposed insulation will be spackled over within the next month as well.
We dug 6" below the level of the foundation walls and found 4" drain tile that was set on 2-3 of clear stone and back filled with solid clay. The drain tile made a complete circle around the house, no drain field.
What replaced that was 6" socked drain tile just below the foundation sitting on 6" of clear stone with a 1/2" drop every 10' making its way to a drain field that's just less than 300' away with a 1' drop every 12'. The drain field is 10' squared and also full of clear stone. By the drain tile, there's 2' square of clear stone, then 6" of clear against the wall until just a few feet below grade. The rest is all fill. That alone should alleviate any water concerns just having that additional space for water to congregate.
The "dirt" we were digging up was solid clay. This could have been tossed in an oven and turned to brick. There was zero drainage anywhere. We ended up getting 4" of rain in 2 days while the trenches were all open and the drain field filled up to 4' high and hasn't dropped at all in the 4 days since it rained last.
The last things left are to install the egress window
And fill the drain field. I have a 12" diameter pipe going into the center of the drain field 2' above the bottom where a sump pump will be triggered to pump once the drain field hits 6' of water.
Just a quick update, but there's a few more "huh, WTF is that"'s to show.
Moral of the story: Don't trust inspectors (I paid 7 different inspectors in 7 different fields to verify the condition of the house), don't buy used/old houses if you give a shit what you live in, and build new at all costs being your own general contractor.
|03-22-2018 11:24 AM|
I also talked to a few contactors that said 18-24" of clearstone is ridiculous and 12" is more than enough.
There's also mixed feelings on the dimpled membrane. There's been a few contractors saying it's not needed, but it won't hurt anything. The rigid insulation board with taped seams will do the job of keeping any water pressure off the sprayed membrane on the block foundation, so really all that's needed is something to protect the foam board. So I'm on the fence about that now, however I like the idea of the dimples allowing water to drain, but I'm not sure how that'll hold up to the weight of the clearstone and fille pushing against it. I don't see there being much of a standoff left.
|03-22-2018 10:04 AM|
|Screwzer2||To save money on your plan, use a bitchithane membrane instead of fluid applied, except where needed at footing etc. most brands have a sheet and fluid applied variant that are comatoble|
|03-22-2018 09:54 AM|
Iím surrounded by 1500+ acres of field and my only neighbors are penny pinchers. Maybe when the old hag down the hill from me finally dies someone rich will move there (assuming I donít buy her property).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|03-22-2018 09:53 AM|
The house was put on a block wall foundation in the 50ís. House uses all actual lumber and the deed states pre 1900, so I donít actually have a clue how old the house is. My last house was built in 1932 and the only reason I know that is because when I gutted it I found the original recipe in the plaster when they put the walls up.
|03-22-2018 09:22 AM|
What you need is a rich neighbor. When I built my house the water table was at 3 1/2’ Rich dude bought the farm next door and wanted 10’ deep foundation walls on his McMansion. I talked to him about the water table and he just shrugged his shoulders and said, I’ll fix that.
I thought, how the hell is gonna do that? He brought in a big ass excavator and dug down 14’ and put in a 10” drain line. Ran it to a hollow. My god the water poured out of that thing. Dropped the ground water level in the whole neighborhood. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it.
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