|08-27-2019 12:38 PM|
...ok - been real busy crankin' on the Dak and time for an update; mostly descriptions (not many pics) but they'll be coming soon as I can get them -
Alternator. Okay so one of the future accessories on deck for this truck is a Premier Power Welder system, and after doing some digging I discovered I'd need to use one of their HD alternators, and I was able to returned the CVF Racing alternator and replaced it with the appropriate unit from PPW. It's a 170 amp unit and is specifically and permanently re-wired to use an external regulated (cannot be a 1-wire unit) and uses a heavy duty regulator, but because I'm not running the complete system 'yet' I just ordered the alternator and their bypass harness which allows the use of a standard voltage regulator, in this case a new solid state unit from a 70's Ford, available off the shelf at local parts stores. When time comes to get the remainder of the PPW kit I'll simply unplug the bypass harness, bolt up the PPW HD regulator, and plug it back up. Then I'll mount the welder unit in the bed, and I'll be ready to burn metal on the trail.
Engine mounts. Made a set of engine mounts using 1-3/4" steel encased rubber leaf spring bushings and 9/16" bolts. There also was a bunch of bolt hole 'slack' in the RV steel mounts to the block - the original 7/16" bolts were pretty loose and 1/2" bolts were too big, so I opted for metric bolts which fit perfectly and took out a lot of the slack. I first tried to use early Mopar spool engine mounts but they didn't work out very well - might have been poor quality, but the big leaf spring bushings work perfect. Even if the rubber deteriorates the engine can't flop around very much because of the steel case around everything, and they press in real nice and simple.
Belly Cradle. The main cradle frame is pretty much done - it's made from the same 2" x 0.25 wall steel square tube I used on Bud, and it has rear stringers to provide armor around the back end of the gas tanks. It bolts up to the bottom of the frame via eight 1/2" bolts and serves several functions: it protects the gas tanks, rear driveshaft, and exhaust, plus of course providing a rock-proof belly armor for those times I end up high-centering the whole truck on some very large rocks. I think I'll eventually also have a second section in front if the main to provide similar protection for the t-case and etc.
Axles. The diffs are done and pretty much ready for all the outer hardware to bolt back on (brakes, knuckles etc). As expected the front D60 was totally worn out and needed a full rebuild with fresh guts including Spicer 5.38 gears and a Grizzly locker, plus a bunch of upgrades: full kingpin rebuild, 1410 u-bolt yoke, Reid knuckles, Yukon spindles, SpeedHouse GM brake conversion, RCV shafts, and Warn premium hubs. The 14 bolt needed much less love and just got fresh guts including Nitro 5.38 gears and Grizzly locker, 1410 u-bolt yoke, and a HD pinion yoke guard from Barnes 4x4. I did 'shave' the bottom edge of the 14 bolt to basically match the profile of the cover, as well as smoothing off some edges to help the axle slide over stuff. Both axles are capped off with Crane diff covers and LubeLocker gaskets. All of the steering hardware came from Barnes 4wd including 1.5" x .250 wall DOM tubing and GM 1-ton TRE's for the tie rod and crossover linkage.
Drive shafts. Charlie at my local Driveline Service again built me a beefy set of driveshafts: the 2-piece rear begins with a 1410 yoke off the Atlas down to a carrier bearing ending with a Ford DC flange, then a 1350 DC joint and slip-shaft down to a 1410 u-bolt yoke. The front shaft is almost exactly identical to the rear shaft, the only difference being the front DC mating flange is drilled for 1/2 bolts (for the Atlas output flange) and the second half of the rear is drilled just slightly smaller for the required Ford metric bolts in to the flange just behind the carrier bearing. The cool part is in the event I grenade the rear shaft I can actually replace the entire second half with the entire front shaft to get off the trail and back home - a nice redundancy. All u-joints are 'greaseless' except for the center DC pivot ball, so no need to re-grease everything throughout the season - I'll just hit the pivot ball before each season, and pull the shafts every three years or so for inspection/re-balance, and ensure the joints are good.
Gas tanks. Both gas tanks are mocked up in place and ready for the plumbing. The d-side tank is the 'main' - the p-side tank is the 'auxiliary'. The Sniper EFI system will have its own small high-pressure tank in the engine bay from RobbMC, and the main tank will use 5/16 feed and return lines and a low-pressure fuel pump to circulate fresh fuel to the EFI tank. Then, with the flip of a switch a second identical low-pressure pump outside the aux tank can send some or all of its 24 gallons of fuel into the main tank, or, I can flip a manual lever on the output line and send that fuel into a 'refilling hose' held up under the bed which we can use to refill go-carts, ATVs, or another vehicle. An overflow return line will ensure the aux tank doesn't overfill the main tank. Another switch will let me monitor fuel levels in both tanks. Both tanks utilize their OEM vapor canisters, which are vented per factory spec up to the air filter housing based on throttle body vacuum and a GM pressure regulator.
Exhaust. About 30% tacked together - I started with a good set of OE truck manifolds, then 1/2" plate steel flanges and 2-1/4 pipes route the exhaust into a single 3.5" tube with the O2 sensor. 18 inches later there's a flange for a 3" dump for 'fun time', then the exhaust routes back into a pair of 2-1/4" tubes around/past the t-case and tanks and into a Magnaflow muffler with dual 2.5" inlets and a single 3" outlet, which will exit somewhere out the back.
More to follow
|07-17-2019 08:02 AM|
|'Mad Max'||thanks for the info - good read. The guys at my local Driveline Service always make me great shafts and they're making the front half of my 2-piece rear shaft now. Both my D60 and 14b get built this weekend, and with them in place and the front half of the rear shaft in place I'll then know exactly how long to make the remaining shafts. I decided to go even more conservative on the angle and should end up somewhere b/t 11*-16*.|
|07-14-2019 06:41 PM|
Little bit of info in that thread but nothing on my final fix
Might be more in my build thread on as-built when I put in the divorced doubler.
|07-14-2019 04:43 PM|
that's good feedback, thanks. I'm looking at about 15*-18*, but I can put the carrier bearing anywhere I want, and lose or gain angle as a result. I'm shooting for 15*, but if someone was running 20* without issues I'd be tempted to push the carrier bearing rearward and gain the shaft clearance. But I think 15* will be a good middle ground, and then I also gain more articulation potential.
The front however is just going to be what it's going to be - none of it is alterable, but as it won't be spinning fast most of the time it's much lesser of an issue.
|07-14-2019 11:53 AM|
|Mr. Mindless||I don’t think I have notes on exact angles my Dakota was when I went to a 2pc driveshaft but I might be in my “5 foot driveshafts suck” thread. It was decent with a 1350 DC angle that I’d guess was in the 17-19* area. I did go through them, I think 3 in 5 years, but it wasn’t highway use that killed them. I suspect it was lack of maintenance and impact damage.|
|07-14-2019 07:26 AM|
...in retrospect...my question is probably unanswerable with any sort of real quantification, so disregard. So far my angle is just at 20* but I can make it less so I'll just try to make it as little as possible, but it will be no more than 20*.
As we were
|07-14-2019 06:54 AM|
no - curious if running 20* of DC angle, at normal ride height, on the highway, for hours, is 'too much' for a 1350 DC joint to run without getting excessively hot and/or wearing out prematurely. I can go to about 35* of max flex but not concerned about that in this case - just driveline 'longevity' and 'durability' at that angle on the highway.
I'll restate the question: has anyone been running a rear DC joint at 20* on the highway, and do you have any good or bad feedback?
|07-14-2019 06:46 AM|
1350 Series CV vs 1310 Series CV
|07-14-2019 06:40 AM|
I'll be using 1350 Double Cardan (DC) joints, more commonly called a CV joint but technically incorrect. Near zero angle into the rear diff.
Presume length and all else is good - is 20* too much, or ok?
|07-14-2019 06:30 AM|
However a U-Joint isn't a CV joint so there will be some speed oscillations once the angle goes above 0º, the greater the angle the greater the oscillation that may not cause failures, but can make the drive annoying.
|07-14-2019 06:13 AM|
so I'm setting up the drivelines; I'm told by two reputable companies that I can comfortably cruise along at sustained highway speeds with a rear CV angle of 20* or less, and a third saying they'd recommend 10*-15* (no more than 15*).
Can anyone confirm the above claims with real-world feedback?
|06-17-2019 07:57 AM|
|DMANbluesfreak||Lookin good! Excited to see it close to completion!|
|06-17-2019 07:46 AM|
rear suspension is tacked in place - I used 63" Procomp leafs, #13211, and 6" ODR supershackles. I put 4 of the wheels/tires in the bed to try to simulate a full load - the rear leafs compress 7 inches before supporting the weight - nice and flexy. Next the cab comes off and all the final frame welding, exhaust, and more get done, then it'll be time to actually 'assemble' the truck for good . Progress!
no load -
loaded up 4 of the big meats, and I can't lift these by myself - well I probably could but it might wreck my back trying, so I'm guessing these weigh about 200 lbs each...so the weight should be a decent simulation of rear bumper, topper, gear etc - not exact but good enough to wag the shackle mount placement...which I can always adjust if needed. Frenched in the mounts like the front - worked great.
|06-12-2019 07:51 AM|
Scored a good used hydrobooster from a 99 Cummins Ram and it's at Vanco for the hi-flow treatment. Meanwhile the front suspension is tacked in place (sold my previous Chevy unit to a buddy for his build). Like my last rig I'm using a set of the big beefy Super Shackles from Offroad Design - they're actually intended for a rear application but because they're bulletproof and 'deflection proof' I like using them for the front too - these are the 4.5" shackles, and I'm using the 6" units in back. With the majority of weight on the wheels I've got a 23* shackle angle, and 6* of positive 'street friendly' caster at the kingpins - should be just about perfect.
After examining 5 different sets of front leafs I settled on a set of 48" Skyjackers for a Chevy, #C125S - these had the majority of my preferred options, the two biggest being available 'off-the-shelf' (not custom made) and top leaf design (eyelets angled 'up' at both ends - which gave me an ideal caster angle with no shims), plus also including length, lift (2.5"), tall bolted keepers, 5 leafs (not 4), and bushing size (1-1/8"). ORD sells poly bushings for these that utilize 9/16 bolts so got a set of those, tho they were for a Chevy application so they were 3.5" wide which I trimmed down to an even 3".
The frame has a very odd shape right where I wanted to put the rear fixed mount so to keep things simple I frenched the mount into the frame - worked great -
good clearance to the deep truck pan, tho I might plane off the d-side front edge for some additional clearance to the differential webbing -
Progress. Rear suspension is next -
|05-24-2019 08:37 AM|
so the hydrobooster pressure cylinder hits the valve cover - I need some hydrobooster hardware from a 1999-era Dodge Cummins truck (maybe a gasser?) - anyone have one of these little master cylinder adapters (and the longer pushrod) that came on the 1999 era Cummins Dodge trucks that I could buy from ya?
|04-18-2019 06:59 AM|
|'Mad Max'||...that's the basic plan...unless I need to relocate the bed mounts in order to fit the 40" spare - won't know for sure until I start measuring everything. I'm also moving the bed back about 2 inches total so I can install a stout roll bar main hoop between the cab and bed, which will ultimately be the core for the exo cage, which will still enable me to use a standard topper on the bed.|
|04-17-2019 07:14 PM|
Looking great! I like the dye job for those boots. And that frame widening looks interesting. I might have to take that on someday haha. I assume you're keeping the body mounts in the same location on the bed, just raising them to build in the body lift?
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
|04-15-2019 07:34 AM|
Here's some info on a little side project I had brewing for the truck. So I'm going with RCV shafts in front D60 and the CV seals are bright blaze orange - not exactly my first choice of colors but it's the only color available. I wanted to at least 'subdue' the orange (or change the color all together) and I considered Plasti-Dip spray, normal spray primer/paint, or dying them, and dying them with Rit DyeMore Synthetic Graphite Dye worked perfectly.
I found a thread on the net from a guy that dyed some plastic interior parts with great results - they weren't polyurethane parts but the process sounded plausible so I basically tried the same thing -
First I 'scuffed' the seals with #3 steel wool to knock down some of the super smooth shiny surface and provide some 'tooth'. Then I took a 2-quart pot and filled it with tap water high enough to cover one seal, added about 1/3 cup of acetone, and using a camping stove (not the nice one in the kitchen ) brought it to about 175 degrees (not boiling), added about 1/2 bottle of the Rit synthetic graphite dye, let it simmer a few minutes, then dropped in the test bushing - a bright shiny red suspension bushing, and after only about 1 minute the bushing was completely black - it was like it had been anodized. Cut a sliver away and you can see the depth. Scratched it very aggressively and no red shown through. Okay, sold - drop in a CV seal and see what happens.
Again it took maybe 5 minutes total to completely dye the CV seals black - it couldn't have worked any better
As well as it worked I don't know if scuffing with steel wool...or using the acetone...was really necessary. The long-term test will be to see if the dying process 'damaged' the seals - I doubt it did, and I applied some F21 protectant just to 'condition' the seals, just for good measure.
So now the colors on my dark blue and otherwise 'subdued' truck will all match nicely. Was a fun chemistry experiment too
Here's a link to the Rit dye - https://www.ritdye.com/products/graphite/
Here's some pics -
|04-10-2019 06:32 PM|
|04-10-2019 06:12 PM|
|Elwenil||I wonder how much 5 gallons of gas will cost on a trail, hours away from the closest gas station, $50? $100?|
|04-10-2019 07:49 AM|
...yeah it'll be thirsty, but really the 360 only got about 12 mpg anyway - will be real interesting to see what the mpg is on the highway - might be the same as what the 360 was in stock form - maybe even better
The aux tank will be able to fill the main tank on the fly, or with the flip of a valve I'll also be able to fill an ATV or go cart or someone else's truck if they get low...
|04-09-2019 02:55 PM|
|Twmdodge99||Looks good, certainly creative way to get more fuel under that thing, lords knows you’ll need it with that engine you’ve got.|
|04-09-2019 11:24 AM|
|'Mad Max'||current plan is to access the spare from above via a big trap door in the bed. Thought about dropping it out the bottom same way the factory did it, but I'll need the height under the bed to get the tire up high enough to clear the 14b so I'm removing most of the bracing under the trap door and I'll use the spare itself to 'support' that portion of bed floor...at least that's the plan. Considering the bed won't be carrying 'massive' loads there shouldn't be any problems. Not planning to fab up a 'well' for the tire to sit in - it won't need to be 'sealed', just a basic cage to contain the tire, plus some kind of rock/debris shield. Meh - that'll likely sort itself out once I start fabricating things - see what works and what doesn't...|
|04-09-2019 11:16 AM|
How are you going to access the spare, mechanical winch or a "carrier" for lack of a better term? Is it going to have a skid plate to protect the tire? Just curiosities. Looking good, looks like the second tank filler is going to work like factory too.
|04-09-2019 09:42 AM|
once the alignment was confirmed, lots of gusseting with 1/8" plate (same thickness as the frame) -
top and bottom plates like these (top is 1/8", bottom is 'rock-resistant' 1/4") -
boxed completely all the way back with 1/8" -
and then in-boarding/lifting the cab and core support mounts enabling the use of all the OE bushings and bolts -
Of course there's plenty of finish welding and such, but it's done enough to continue with mock-up, and then comes the engine and trans mounts, belly cradle, gas tank mounts, and finally, "suspension".
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