|Today 03:49 PM|
|JayMcJay||Tell him it's out of a 2005 Camaro. Problem solved?|
|Today 03:28 PM|
start off by saying I did the 5.3/4l60e swap into a 1981 cj8,put all the emissions parts in cats,o2 sensors,charcoal canister, purge valve,tank pressure sensor,check engine lite,sent the harness and computer to wayne,have driven it about 500 miles now with no cel so far.The jeep had the 151 in it before the swap,now with the v8 its a lot of fun.So now I take it to the referee to get the blessing and he askswhat I did to it before hooking it up to his computer,so I tell him I got the donor parts from a 2005 Tahoe and he stops me rite there and says I couldn't do the swap because the Tahoe is considered a medium duty machine and the scrambler is a light duty machine(wtf).If anybody has any ideas please help I don't want to just give up on this project,to much time and money to just forget it. All ears
|10-22-2019 09:53 AM|
|10-21-2019 06:42 PM|
|bkh98||I have a brand new unopened Novak emulator I'm not going to use that I'll sell.|
|10-21-2019 02:11 PM|
I did not go the route of designing a circuit to send to the Jeep computer, even though that is within the scope of where I work and what I do. Instead, I went with an all mechanical setup that still uses the Jeep crank and camshaft sensors. It cost less than $100, but there were quite a few hours of machining time for a camshaft sensor trigger and for a trigger ring that goes on the GM balancer. It's not the simplest setup, but it has worked well so far. If I were to do it again, I would just purchase the Novak emulator and be done with it.
|10-21-2019 12:57 PM|
|10-21-2019 12:42 PM|
It is something I intend to sell as product in the future so I need to setup a vendor account here once I am back in the USA.
|10-21-2019 12:37 PM|
|cobra30689||Gotta pick some brains here if I may.....planning a swap on a YJ. Thinking about going with a GM NV3500 (NOT the Jeep 3550, a lot of the forum searches I have done manage to confuse the two) with a 5 bolt case flange, and a hybrid 231 transfer case, front half sourced from an older S10....as they are still dirt cheap in my area. Has anyone gone this route? My concern is the length....as I have never seen one closeup and have no frame of reference. Thanks in advance....|
|10-21-2019 12:09 PM|
Do you mind sharing what you did to get the tach to work? So I could atleast go that route.
Trying to stay away from the whole emulator thing.
|10-21-2019 12:01 PM|
|10-21-2019 08:47 AM|
Yeah thatís all what Iíve heard /Thought, but this is what he is saying you have to do:
And now for the info you came here for. First off, I cannot take full credit for this. Greg Byars was kind enough bounce a few messages back and forth with me with research he did, and in the end, it was a $0 working setup😁
First and foremost, you will need access to tuning software to make adjustments to your Tach Output settings on your GM ECM. What you need to change in you tach output settings (see photos) is the HIgh and Low resolutions. Some ECM's will have a "Pullup" or "No Pullup" Type option in addition to the Resolution. Set the Type (if applies) to "No Pullup", set you High Resolution to "1" and your Low Resolution to "1" (see photos). Flash this back to the ECM.
Next, you will need to locate your Tach Output wire on your GM ECM, it is a solid white wire on pin 10. (99-02 ECM tach wire is on the RED connector while 03-07 is on the GREEN connector. This applies to the 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines)
Then, on the BLACK connector on your Jeep ECM, you want to locate pin 8 (CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL). This is a GRAY wire with a BLACK STRIPE.
Then locate pin 18 (CMP SIGNAL). This is a TAN wire with a YELLOW STRIPE.
This is where things get stupid simple. Simply take Pins 8 and 18 of the Jeep ECM and connect them directly to pin 10 in the GM ECM. Congratulations, you now have a working Tachometer without the need for expensive converters / emulator boxes.
(Drops Mic) 🎤Ē
|10-21-2019 07:45 AM|
|10-21-2019 07:39 AM|
1. Novak Module, 200 bucks i believe. If you go this route, make sure to ask Novak for instructions on how to program the PCM for their module.
2. Redline gauges. They disassemble your cluster and put "standard" tach guts in there. I was quoted something like 400 for that. This eliminates the need for an emulator.
3. Custom gauge set, autometer or the like, most expensive and obviously deletes the factory cluster.
|10-20-2019 11:16 PM|
|10-15-2019 04:28 PM|
|10-15-2019 02:05 PM|
If your end goal is to get to the holley setup, youll need at least one side with an o2 bung (or after it Y's) anyhow. It utilizes a wideband o2 for self tuning.
EDIT: how are you controlling fuel pressure? Do you have a MAF?
|10-15-2019 01:46 PM|
|Cool Hand Luke|
|10-15-2019 09:58 AM|
|10-15-2019 06:44 AM|
|Cool Hand Luke||
How is everyone running their exhaust/o2 sensors? Are o2 sensors needed with something like a holly terminator EFI setup? I've got mine "finished"; however, exhaust is cobbled together and I'm not currently running any o2 sensors. Seems to be running very rich at idle and leans out incredibly at higher RPM's. Stock fuel pump in a motobilt fuel cell out back. I'm questioning if it's AFR related.
Not sure if I need to redo my exhaust and add bungs for o2 sensors? I've heard some people run with no o2's and had great success. Others say it's impossible to run without them.
Once I can save up some cash I plan to go with the Holley setup but I'd like to see it running better in the mean time. If o2 sensors aren't needed I'd rather wait. Currently running a standalone harness with factory GM ECM. 99 TJ with 2003 GMC Sierra 5.3 LM7
|10-07-2019 10:34 AM|
Does anyone have a recommendation for a torque converter? Iím building 4.8 with a small summit truck cam, part # SUM-8719. The trans is a 4L60e out of a 1998 Yukon. The trans was originally bolted up to a non-LS style engine. The trans has a 298mm input shaft. I have already figured out how to make it bolt up. I just need a recommendation on a converter that will work for the typical crawling/Johnson Valley type of wheeling I do.
Jeep is a YJ with links, coilovers, 14 bolt, Dana 60 front, 5.38 gears, NP231 transfer case. Iím using Holley terminator X for engine management. Engine is stock other than the cam and valve springs.
Thanks for any recommendations.
|09-30-2019 02:45 AM|
|09-28-2019 04:10 PM|
Fucking SKIM module is interfering with progress currently. The SKIM does not remember the original keys turning off gauges.
1. SKIM module signal light permanently on
2. no power on ignition cable to starter [clutch safety switch is bridged with 20A fuse in glove fuse box]
3. Jeep alternator not charging [assuming PCM shuts down or bad battery temp senor? ]
4. all gauges dead
Any one doing Jeep PCM programming here in order to turn off all that shit mentioned ?
|09-22-2019 06:52 PM|
Why are you waiting for him? Afraid of what's needed, work involved or what?
As soon as my tranmission is back from the shop I'm all in.
I'm going cammed 5.3, 4L60E with billet 1800 stall converter, Atlas in a 98 TJ.
|09-22-2019 02:24 PM|
Good job man. Keep us posted... I'm about to start my LS swap and holding for yours to be finished
Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk
|09-22-2019 01:47 PM|
Found the culprit. IGN source from the under the hood Jeep fuse box is fluctuating.
It's fine when after key on at > 12V, but it's going down to 8V when cranking.
Battery still has >12V though. So something voltage related in the Jeep fuse box.
As soon PCM IGN wiring is hooked up to the battery directly engine starts, rough, but running.
Now I have to check why voltage in Jeep fuse box is getting low.
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